Home Improvement & Appliances Articles

Video / Updated 04-21-2022

Audio Transcript To remove ordinary wallpaper, you need to gather a few simple items. A pre-tape drop cloth A bucket of water A paint roller and pan A perforator A scraper (which looks a lot like a putty knife but has a slot for replaceable blades) Wallpaper removing solvent And a bucket full of patients The first step is to protect the floor and molding from water damage. Use a pre-taped plastic drop cloth and tape it to the top of the baseboard floor molding. Go all around the perimeter of the area and then unfold it into the room to cover the floor. If you skip this step, it can get messy, not to mention the damage that water can do to floors and baseboards. The second step is to score the wallpaper with a razor scraper or perforating tool. It's a perfect gadget for removing wallpaper from walls made of wall board or drywall, because it won't damage the paper face of the wall board. And that means you won't have to spend time repairing the walls later. When you score the paper with holes or slits it allows the moisture, when applied, to break down the adhesive. If at any time you notice the razor is getting dull, be sure to change it. The next step is to mix the wallpaper removing solvent with water. The solvent breaks down the adhesive, so that the wall covering loosens and can easily be scraped off. Use either a 50/50 combination of vinegar and water or a 25/75 solution of liquid laundry softener and water. The fourth step is to apply the wallpaper solvent with a paint roller or a liquid sprayer. Start with a three foot section of wallpaper. After a few applications of moisture and a little time to let it soak in, you'll be ready for the next step. Now peel and scrape off the wet paper. Work on a three foot wide section of the wall at a time and then move on to the next area. As you scrape off the old wallpaper, let it fall onto the plastic drop cloth. When all the wallpaper is removed, use a sponge and some warm water to remove any excess paste from the walls. Then just roll up the entire mess — wallpaper, drop cloth and all.

Step by Step / Updated 04-21-2022

Chalk paint can be used to paint almost anything — walls, kitchen cabinets, metal, wood, and even fabric — but the most common use is to give new life to old furniture or to make newer pieces look old. The great thing about chalk paint is that there isn't a huge learning curve or a lot of prep work. You can just dive right in.

Video / Updated 04-20-2022

Painting the corners and edges on a wall is the meticulous part; once you've done that, you're ready to paint the main part of the wall. Be sure you have the right tools — having the right roller for the surface of your walls is critical.

Video / Updated 04-20-2022

You don't want to run out of paint midway through painting a room. Use simple math the determine how much paint you need, and you're good to start painting.

Cheat Sheet / Updated 04-20-2022

It's a good idea to be prepared for things going wrong in your home, whether it's something relatively simple that you can fix yourself, or a more complex problem requiring a qualified professional. Following is advice for both situations. First, we list some non-tool items you'll want to have around for DIY home repair. We also suggest questions you should ask before hiring a professional to make a repair or renovation in your home.

Article / Updated 04-20-2022

Installing a ceramic tile floor may appear to be beyond the abilities of some homeowners, but most DIYers can handle it. Just don’t rush it — have a little patience! The materials are relatively easy to work with, and you can rent the tools, even the big ones. Install ceramic tile over a subfloor that’s no less than 1 1/8 inches thick. A thinner subfloor will cause the floor to flex due to the weight of the tile. A flexing subfloor results in cracked tiles and grout — and a lot of headaches. Most tile manufacturers recommend installing a cement backer board instead of any other type of underlayment, such as plywood. The boards come in 3-by-5-foot sheets and are available where tile and grout are sold. After you establish your guidelines or layout lines, it’s time to install the tile: Before you think about setting the tile in place with mortar, make sure that the layout is even from side to side in both directions. To do so, dry-fit the tiles along the layout lines in both directions and make sure that the finished layout looks good to you. One important measurement to note is the width of the tiles that meet the wall. Make sure you never have less than half of a tile’s width at the wall. If you do, adjust the layout until you get an adequate end tile size. After you establish this, snap a new layout line to follow. Pick up the loose tiles and set them aside. Use a notched trowel to spread thin-set mortar over a 3-by-3-foot section at the intersection of the layout lines. Trowels come with different-sized notches, so check the tile manufacturer’s recommendation for the correct size. Working in small, square sections — say 3 feet by 3 feet — is important. If you work with a larger section, the mortar may harden (known as setting up) before you put the tiles in place. Be careful not to cover the layout lines. Begin laying tiles at the center point of the two layout lines, setting each tile into the mortar by tapping it gently with a rubber mallet. Use plastic spacers at each tile corner to maintain even grout lines between the tiles. Spacers are available where tile is sold. Continue laying tiles until you’ve covered the mortared area. Continue the process by applying mortar to another section and then laying tiles. Fit the last tile in the row at the wall. This step usually requires that you measure and cut the tile. First, set a scrap tile against the wall — it allows space for grout. Next, place a loose tile directly over the last full tile you laid (this is the tile you’ll cut to size). Then place another tile on the loose one and up against the tile on the wall. Mark the loose tile and cut it to fit along the edge. After all the tiles are set in the mortar, mix the grout according to the manufacturer’s instructions and install it by using a rubber grout float. Use a sweeping motion, pressing the grout into the gaps. Wipe away the excess grout with a grout sponge. Let the grout dry slightly and then wipe off the haze that appears. Cutting the tiles For most installations, you need a tile cutter, which you can rent. To make a straight cut with a tile cutter, simply place the tile face up in the cutter, adjust the cutter to the proper width, and score the tile by pulling the cutting wheel across the tile’s face. Then snap the tile along the scored line. If you need to make a cutout, say to go around a corner, mark the area you plan to cut out. Secure the tile in a vise or clamps — just be sure to cushion the vise jaws to protect the tile from scratches. Cut along the marks with a tile saw, which is a hand saw that’s similar to a coping saw, except that it has a carbide saw blade designed for cutting ceramic tile. If you need to make a round or circular cut, mark the area and then use a tile nipper to nip out small pieces of tile until you reach the line. A tile nipper is similar to a pair of pliers, but it has hardened cutting edges for cutting through ceramic tile.

Article / Updated 04-20-2022

Planning the layout of your tile floor is an essential step in guaranteeing the success of your project. Ever wonder how a professional tile layer always seems to get those tiles at a perfect 90- or 45-degree angle to the wall? You can do it, too, and here’s how. Install ceramic tile over a subfloor that’s no less than 1 1/8 inches thick. A thinner subfloor will cause the floor to flex due to the weight of the tile. A flexing subfloor results in cracked tiles and grout — and a lot of headaches. Most tile manufacturers recommend installing a cement backer board instead of any other type of underlayment, such as plywood. The boards come in 3-by-5-foot sheets and are available where tile and grout are sold. Begin planning by using a pair of perpendicular reference lines for establishing your layout instead of relying on measurements from walls, which are neither straight nor square to each other. To ensure the reference lines are square, use a 3-4-5 triangle rule as follows: Establish your first reference line by measuring across opposite sides of the room. Mark the center of each side and then snap a chalk line between the two marks. Measure and mark the center of that line. Then use a pencil, a framing square, and a straightedge held against its shorter leg to mark a second 4-foot-long line perpendicular to the first line. Before snapping a second line across the room, you want be sure the angle you formed is truly 90 degrees. Measure out 3 feet from the intersection and mark the penciled line. Then measure out 4 feet from the intersection and mark the spot on the chalk line. Measure the distance between the 3-foot and 4-foot marks. The distance should be 5 feet — the 3-4-5 rule. If it isn’t, make an adjustment and pencil a new line. Now snap a chalk line across the room that falls directly over the penciled line. After you have reference lines, use them to establish layout lines, which actually guide tile placement. Dry-set two rows of tiles, extending from the center to adjacent walls. If the last tile in a row would be less than half a tile, plan to shift the first course to be centered on the reference line rather than next to it. Snap your layout line a half line away from the reference line. Repeat the procedure for the other row. Laying out your tiles at 45-degree angles instead of 90 isn’t that difficult. You need only a couple more layout lines. Mark the two layout lines as you would for a 90-degree job and then follow these steps: Measure out the same distance (for example, 4 feet) on the perpendicular lines. From these points, make marks 4 feet out at right angles to the original lines. Snap a chalk line through these new marks and through the intersection of the two original layout lines. The two lines are now your layout lines for a 45-degree pattern.

Article / Updated 04-20-2022

Buying ceramic tile for floors requires measuring and math. Estimate how many ceramic tiles to buy by calculating the total floor area you plan to cover and dividing that number by the size of one tile. Ceramic floor tiles typically come in 4-, 6-, 9-, 12-, and 18-inch squares. First, determine the square footage of the room (don’t forget the closets!); just multiply the room’s length by its width. [Length of Floor] x [Width of Floor] = Total Area. Choose your tile size from the following list and use the accompanying equation to figure out the number of tiles to buy: 4-inch tiles: Total Area ÷ 0.1089 = Number of 4-inch tiles needed 6-inch tiles: Total Area ÷ 0.25 = Number of 6-inch tiles needed 9-inch tiles: Total Area ÷ 0.5625 = Number of 9-inch tiles needed 12-inch tiles: Total Area = Number of 12-inch tiles needed (you’ve measured your room in square feet, and a 12-inch tile is 1 square foot) 18-inch tiles: Total Area ÷ 2.25 = Number of 18-inch tiles needed Because there are variations in the color of tiles from one tile run to another, buy enough tiles to complete the job and have some leftovers for later repairs. You can always bring your room dimensions to a tile dealer, who can help you figure out how much tile and other supplies to purchase.

Article / Updated 04-20-2022

Refurbished furniture can add a lot of character to your home. Decorating old or unfinished furniture lets you make a creative statement. Take a look at the following decorating tips. Try some out on your furniture: Consider new uses for old furniture and unique items. Turn an old combination radio/phonograph in a beautifully veneered cabinet into an elegant foyer console. Try using drums as tables; bunch together a trio of drums and use them as individual coffee tables. Discreet furniture never reveals its source (garage sale or heirloom?) but adds to a room’s overall beauty and comfort. Create an instant slipcover by throwing a king-size sheet, quilt, or bedspread over an unsightly sofa. Tie it in place with rope or grosgrain ribbon. Decorate an old chest for a teenage boy’s room with discarded license plates. Garage sales and junk stores are good sources. Just decide where to add them. Nail them into place. Decoupage an old dresser or dressing table with motifs cut from wallpaper. Safeguard with a finishing glaze or coat of polyurethane. Dress up a plain-Jane, upholstered side chair. Get out the trusty hot-glue gun to attach interesting gimp (an ornamental braid or cord), fringe, or other trim along the bottom of the seat. Faux paint old wooden furniture. Paint stores have rows of booklets describing various techniques step by step. They also carry kits. Everything you need is right there in the store. Individualize dining room chairs for your children. Paint mismatched chairs bold colors (all the same or coordinating colors). Stencil your children’s names on the chair backs, or add a motif. Craft shops have small glue-on toys, animals, numbers, and initials. Paint a wooden chair with an interesting shape in different colors and patterns, like a Victorian house. For color combination ideas, pick the colors already in your scheme. Some paint companies put out booklets of historic color combinations; check these out for instant inspiration. Paint vertical stripes on an old dresser or nightstand. All you need is tape (you can buy special masking tape at the paint store), a brilliant color or two, and a very steady hand wielding a paintbrush. Measure off the stripes using a ruler and a pencil to make light marks. Take a tip from Colonial homemakers and cover tables in flat-weave rugs. Dhurries, needlepoints, or chainstitch rugs transform tables into desks and display areas for framed family photos. Use a deep, glass-fronted china cabinet to hold a small TV or serve as a minibar in the living room. Punch a hole in the back to slip through the wires for any appliances. Display glasses and ice buckets. Use pillows to convert lumber into a sofa of sorts outside or inside. Use flatter pillows for seats and backs and fluffier ones for decoration and added comfort.

Step by Step / Updated 04-20-2022

The trickiest part of replacing broken glass panes in steel-casement windows is getting replacement glass that’s sized exactly right. To replace a broken glass pane in a steel-casement window, you need to measure the precise length and width of the grooves in which the pane will fit. Have the new glass cut so it measures 1/8 inch shorter than the exact groove dimensions in both the length and width. This creates a 1/16-inch gap on each side between the edges of the pane and the rabbet groove. The gap provides room for the glass to expand when the weather changes. In addition to the replacement glass pane, you'll need: latex glazing putty, pliers, heat gun, flexible putty knife, 1- or 2-inch stiff steel putty knife, and a flathead screwdriver.