Home Improvement & Appliances Articles

Article / Updated 12-11-2023

Updating kitchen cabinets make tired drab kitchens look fresh again. Knowing how to update kitchen cabinets, can save you the cost of completely replacing them. Most cabinets, no matter how unattractive or outdated, can be drastically improved by following the tips below. Clean your cabinets. A good cleaning may bring new luster to tired but handsome wood. Try TSP to remove grim and grease. Change the hardware. Try something zippy, like bent twig fork handles, hand-painted ceramic knobs, clear glass handles and knobs, or metal pharmacy pulls. For unity, match cabinet hardware and faucet finishes (all brass, copper, steel, iron, or so on). Paint them. A little paint goes a long way. Are you going Contemporary? Paint simple cabinets with a high gloss lacquer-look finish in a zingy new color or colors. For example, paint base cabinets one color and wall-hung cabinets another. Antiqued cabinets in off white, buttery yellow, mellow rose, watermelon red, and apple green add an Old World charm that’s especially comforting. Paint cabinets high-gloss white for an instant Country look. Or stain them a natural, wood color in the Victorian style. Add bead board as a backsplash and paint it a crisp white. Paint your cabinets’ outsides white and the insides a nautical blue for a seaside effect. Relaminate all cabinets in one solid color. Or, for a more Contemporary or Eclectic look, mix and match colors and interesting patterns. For example, keep the cabinet boxes plain and add different colored or patterned doors (or vice versa). Exchange old doors on plain cabinets. Try new fancy doors in the style of your choice. Add classic architectural trims to plain cases. You can include fluted pilasters at the corners, pediments, and crown moldings on top or deep base moldings at the bottom.

Article / Updated 09-18-2023

A food disposer takes the place of a sink basket and drain piece on one of the kitchen sink bowls. To install this appliance, consult the installation instructions that come with the unit, because the steps vary among brands. Here are the basic steps for installing any food disposer: Remove the sink basket (if one was installed). Send the sink sleeve (which replaces the sink basket and secures the disposer to the sink bowl) through the hole in the sink bottom and secure the sleeve to the bowl by using the gasket and mounting rings, following the unit’s installation instructions. The gaskets and mounting rings keep the sink sleeve from leaking when you run water. There are two mounting rings: the upper mounting ring and a backup mounting ring. There’s also a snap ring that goes into the groove on the backup mounting ring as extra security for keeping the unit in place. Lift the disposer and align the mounting lugs (small, rolled curls of metal attached to the mounting ring) and mounting ears (90-degree angled metal cliplike pieces also attached to the mounting ring near the lugs) with the mounting screws located between the upper and backup mounting rings. The mounting screws are threaded. The lugs and ears are located on the lower mounting ring, which is attached to the disposer housing (the main body of the unit). Turn the disposer clockwise until it’s supported on the mounting assembly (sleeve and mounting rings). Attach the discharge tube (a short, approximately 90-degree plastic elbow where the waste and water is discharged) to the discharge opening (the larger hole in the side of the housing). The tube uses a rubber gasket and metal flange to secure it and keep it from leaking. If you’re draining your dishwasher through the disposer, remove the plug in the smaller dishwasher nipple and attach the dishwasher drain hose to the nipple with a hose clamp. If you don’t have a dishwasher, do not remove the plug! If you remove the plug but don’t have a hose to connect to the nipple, the water will spew out the hole. Connect the drain line pipe from the sink drain setup to the disposer’s discharge tube with a slip nut and washer. You may need to cut either the discharge tube or the drain line pipe to fit. Lock the disposer in place by using the disposer wrench (included with the unit). Insert the wrench into one of the mounting lugs on the lower mounting ring and turn it clockwise until it locks. A standard plug-end cord is the electrical power connection for most disposers. But you do need to connect the cord to the motor wires. Here’s how: Remove the disposer’s bottom plate. Strip off about 1/2 inch of insulation from each wire of the power cord. Connect like-color wires by using wire connectors. To ground the unit, attach the green ground wire from the power supply to the green ground screw that will be on the disposer housing. The screw is easy to spot, because it’s actually painted green. Gently push all the wires in and reinstall the bottom plate. Plug in the cord and you’re good to go!

Article / Updated 09-18-2023

After you have attached your faucet and water supply and set your sink, it’s time to connect the sink drain. Drain kits come in different materials and configurations, but installing them is a snap. Choose the kit with the configuration for your sink type, and you’re halfway home! You have a couple of choices for drain kits: chromed metal kits and PVC drain kits. Both work well and are about equally easy to use. The main factor on deciding which one to use is cosmetic — will the drain line be visible? If it will be visible, you’ll want to use the chromed kit. If it’s out of sight in the sink base cabinet, which most kitchen drains are, then the good-old white plastic PVC kit is the way to go; PVC is cheaper. Kitchen sink drain kits, whether they’re chromed or PVC, use nut and washer screw-together connections. Besides being easy to install, they also let you easily disconnect the assembly when it’s time to unclog a drain or quickly rescue that wedding ring that fell down the drain. A basic, single-bowl kit includes: A tailpiece, which connects to the bottom of the sink strainer A trap bend (or P-trap), which forms a water-filled block to prevent sewer gas from coming up through the sink drain A trap arm, which is connected to the downstream end of the P-trap and then to the drain line that leads to the main drainage line A double-bowl drain kit will have everything the single-bowl kit has along with a waste-Tee connection and additional length of drain line to connect both bowls to a single P-trap. If your sink has a garbage disposer, you need an additional longer section of drainpipe to connect the disposer’s drain line to the bowl drain line. The crosspiece that comes in the kit may or may not be long enough to make the connection between the disposer and other sink bowl drain pieces. You have to check yours out to be sure. Follow your disposer’s installation instructions. Assembling and connecting the drain kit is fairly simple. The pieces are easy to maneuver, so you can adjust them to fit almost any setup. Don’t expect the horizontal pieces to be in super-straight alignment with the tailpieces or the drainpipe. The only thing that matters is that they all eventually get connected together. Start by attaching the tailpiece to the sink drain and tightening the slip nut and washer by hand. If you have a multiple bowl sink, all of the drain tailpieces should be the same length for an easier installation. Slip the trap onto the tailpiece and then position the trap’s horizontal piece next to the drain line coming out of the wall. The horizontal piece must fit inside the end of the drain line. Remove the trap and cut the horizontal section to fit. Reattach the trap to the tailpiece and into the drain line and tighten the slip nuts and washers. Before you do anything else, get the bucket and rags ready. Lay some rags directly below each connection so that, if there is a leak, the towels will immediately soak up the water. And leave the rags there for a couple of days, just in case a leak develops over time. Have your helper turn on the water while you begin inspecting for leaks. Don’t be alarmed (or upset) if you have a joint that leaks. Just shut off the water, take a deep breath, disassemble and reassemble the connection, and check again for leaks.

Article / Updated 09-18-2023

Much of the work of sink installation takes place before you set the sink into the countertop. Taking your time with the preliminary work ensures a smooth installation. In most cases, the old plumbing configuration will work with your new sink. But if you’re making a major change in the design of the new sink, be sure that the old plumbing fits the new sink’s requirements. So, before you buy or order a sink, take a few measurements: If you don’t install your sink and faucet according to the instructions, you’ll have to foot the bill for the replacement even if the product is defective. If the manufacturer sees signs of abuse or misuse or an improper installation, they’re off the hook. Establishing the drain height: Make sure to measure the distance from the underside of the countertop to the center of the drain line that comes out of the wall. This distance is usually between 16 and 18 inches, which allows adequate space for the water to drop into the trap and still leaves enough space below the trap for storing items underneath the sink in the cabinet. The drain height is usually not an issue unless you’re going from a very shallow sink to one that has very deep bowls (9 to 12 inches deep). Even if you do switch to deeper bowls, it may only be a problem if your old setup had a shallow bowl coupled with a high drain exit position. This may sound like a less than likely setup but it does happen. If you do find that you only have a few inches of space between the bottom of the bowl and the center of the drainpipe, contact a licensed plumber to assess the situation and determine if the drainpipe needs to be lowered. Determine the shut-off valve heights: Measure from the floor of the sink base cabinet to the center of the valve. Houses built before roughly 1980 were not required to have shut-offs on every sink supply line, so you may not have any at all. If your sink doesn’t have shut-off valves, install them now while you’re working on the system. If your kitchen didn’t have shut-offs when you tore out the old sink and faucet and you’ve been working on the sink installation for a few days, you better have installed individual shut-off valves by now or your family won’t be speaking with you. Where there are no shut-off valves and there are open pipes or lines, the only way to keep the water from running out is to shut down the entire water supply. Not a good idea when your daughter is getting ready for a big date.

Article / Updated 09-05-2023

When you think of children’s bathrooms, primary colors, clown motifs, and other tried-and-true themes may come to mind. If that’s what your child likes, that’s fine, but ask before you decorate. In a child’s bathroom, safety takes center stage. Following are some suggestions that spring from real-life experiences: Avert scalding by installing hot stop valves that prevent a child from turning water on to the highest, hottest temperature. Avoid using slippery area rugs, make sure the tub and floors are skid-proofed, and consider adding child-height grab bars. Check that the glass for the shower or tub doors is tempered so that it doesn’t shatter. Make sure it’s properly installed. Include rocker-type light switches low enough for a child to reach. Install easy-to-maneuver lever faucet handles. Mount them on one side of the sink, near the front edge of the counter, so that a child can reach them without having to climb on top of the vanity. Keep a nightlight on at all times. Lock medicine and cleaning supply cabinet doors. Make sure the shower door opens out so that no child (or adult) can become wedged in. (Make sure doors can swing freely.) Place lever handles on all doors at a child’s height. Prevent a child from locking himself in the bathroom; make sure that you can unlock the exterior door from the outside. Provide a stool that doesn’t tip over for small children to use at the sink. Remove electrically powered radios, hairdryers, and any other small appliances that could be dropped into the tub or sink. Substitute batter-operated products if desired or necessary. Round corners on countertops to prevent injury to tots whose heads may be near the same height. Screw freestanding storage cabinets to the wall so that they don’t tip. Verify that your Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI) works. It shuts off electrical current when an appliance comes in contact with water. When it comes to decorating, if you’re thinking of resale any time in the near future, take a moment before adding, applying, or installing anything that will cost time, effort, and dollars. Consider some temporary ways to bring special colors into your child’s bath with accessories. Colorful accents and fun motifs in towels, bath mats, framed art, soaps, the shower curtain, and so on add fun. Perhaps use some of the new peel-and-stick ceramic tiles to create a border on the sink wall or cabinets. Peel-and-stick wallcovering borders add interest, too, and they’re easy to remove when you’re ready to move.

Article / Updated 09-05-2023

Have you ever noticed how decorations on a wall can look so organized and attractive in some cases and just be a distracting mess in other homes? If you follow these steps, you can create a perfect grouping every time, without making frustrating mistakes: Measure the wall space that you want to fill. Outline that exact size on your floor using masking tape. Arrange the art on the floor within the given area. Doing so enables you to move pieces around until you arrive at the optimum arrangement. After you’re pleased with the grouping, measure and hang. Be prepared for some surprises. You may need to shift pieces from spot to spot, because unusual factors can affect the sense of balance that you’re striving for: Generally, heavier pieces should go below lighter pieces: A large, delicate oil may seem lighter than a smaller, darker, more rustic woodcut. Size alone doesn’t make a picture seem heavier — color does. Ultimately, you’ll have to use your own judgment. Leave several inches of breathing space around each piece: Pieces hung too close together lose any sense of individuality; those hung too far apart don’t look like a group. Use the correct hooks designed to hold the weight of the art you’re hanging. Using two hooks for larger works helps keep them hanging straight. And make sure that the hook you’re using is the right one for your type of walls (plaster or plasterboard). If you’re nailing or screwing a hook into a plaster wall, put a crisscross of adhesive tape on the wall to keep the plaster in place and then drive the nail or screw through the tape. If you’re hanging art on a slanted wall such as a dormer (slanted) ceiling, attach the artwork at the top and bottom of the frame. If you’re creating a precise rectangular or square grouping, secure the pieces at the bottom, too, so that none become crooked. For added excitement, add mirrors, sconces, and brackets with sculpture to your art grouping. Add textural interest with tapestries and quilted, woven, or embroidered wall hangings. You don’t have to hang art to display it: Intersperse paintings with books in a bookshelf. Lean your art on an easel. Easels, large and small, have never gone out of style. Place an array of artfully framed miniatures inside a glass-topped display table, coffee table, or end table, or atop a big round table. Set a large picture on the floor (unless you have small children or pets). Set a small picture on the mantel, place a bunch of pictures atop a bookshelf, or just lean them against the wall. Prop up a plethora of small artwork, including black-and-white photographs, on wooden shelves. This allows for quick and easy changing of your display.

Video / Updated 08-09-2023

A brush is a brush, right? Not quite. If you know how to choose the right paintbrush, you can save time painting. Choosing a paintbrush requires a good understanding of what each brush does and what your project requires. Paintbrushes come in various shapes and sizes, each with a different purpose in mind. To choose right brush you need to consider the paint you'll be using, the cost, and the finish you want. Paint Choice: If you’re using latex paint you'll need synthetic bristles, but if you’re using oil-based paint or a varnish, spend the extra money to get a good quality natural bristle brush. The better the quality of natural bristles the smoother and glossier the finish you'll achieve. Handles: Handles are made of a wide variety of wood or plastic materials. They also come in many different sizes and shapes. With all those choices, the only one that really matters is how it feels. Get a handle that feels comfortable in your hand. Size: Smaller brushes, called trim or sash brushes, are intended for use in small, tight spaces, and if the bristles are tapered, they are able to get into corners and grooves much more easily than a flat-bottomed brush of the same size. Likewise, wider brushes (called paint or wall brushes) are designed for painting large flat surfaces. As you increase the width of the brush, you compromise control and precision. The following paintbrushes are helpful to keep around. 1-inch angled sash brush: Choose one with a stubby handle to paint edges and trim. 2-inch angled sash brush: This brush is used for cutting in corners and edges, and painting narrow window sashes and sills. 3-inch flat bristle sash brush: We recommend the regular handle; use it for wide trim and sashes. Small chip brush: Use this brush to get paint into tight corners and spaces. 5-inch wall brush: Use this one for floors, walls, and ceilings.

Video / Updated 08-08-2023

A roller is a roller, right? Not quite. Knowing how to choose the right paint roller can save you time. Choosing the right paint roller requires a good understanding of what your project requires. Paint rollers come in various sizes and roller covers come in different coverings, each with a different purpose in mind. To choose right roller you need to consider the size of paint roller you want and the kind of surface you'll be painting. Roller cages (the skeletal frame that includes the handle and “ribs” that rotate) and their covers come in several lengths. Rollers are available in mini to 12-inch (and bigger) sizes. The mini (or trim) rollers are good for painting woodwork and other small areas. To work on walls and ceilings, choose a 9-inch roller; the larger sizes are heavier and will make you tire more quickly. A roller cage with plastic ribs holds up better than cardboard cages. Plastic can be cleaned, and it lasts longer than a cheaper version. You have to select the length of the nap on covers and what it’s made of. Roller nap is made from natural or synthetic fibers. Nap is available in various lengths, so use the one recommended for the surface you’re painting. In general, the longer the nap, the more paint it will hold. Use the following as a general guideline. 1/4-inch nap for smooth or fine surfaces, such as new walls, ceilings, wood doors, and trim 3/8-inch nap for smooth to light-textured walls 1/2-inch nap for most walls and medium rough surfaces, such as textured plaster, and concrete 3/4-inch nap for rough surfaces, such as textured walls and ceilings, textured plaster, and concrete 3/8- or 1/2-inch nap is a good general-purpose roller cover. You find helpful information about selecting the right tool for your project on the packaging, and you can ask a salesperson for help. Choose a roller cover based on the texture of the surface to be painted.

Video / Updated 08-08-2023

Getting water based paints out of your paint brushes is easy, and you won't make a mess, if you have the right tools and follow the appropriate steps. Mild liquid soap cleans away latex paint, but a paint brush comb will be sure to get all of the paint so you can use the brush again on future paint jobs.

Video / Updated 08-07-2023

Latex paint is water based, and alkyd paint is oil based. Latex paint dries much faster than oil-based paint and it comes in a range of finishes, from flat to glossy. Alkyd (oil-based) paint is often used in high-end kitchen renovations.