Home Improvement & Appliances Articles

Cheat Sheet / Updated 11-29-2022

Home decorating draws on your creative side, as well as your inner engineer. Whether you dabble in home decorating or make it a career, you get to play with color, texture, and pattern, in addition to tape measures, graph paper, and paint. Finding the furniture you want is important, and so is doing the planning that makes your decorating a delight.

Step by Step / Updated 10-18-2022

The trickiest part of replacing broken glass panes in wood-frame windows is getting replacement glass that’s sized exactly right. To replace a broken glass pane in a wood window, you need to measure the precise length and width of the grooves in which the pane will fit. Have the new glass cut so it measures 1/8 inch shorter than the exact groove dimensions in both the length and width. This creates a 1/16-inch gap on each side between the edges of the pane and the rabbet groove. The gap provides room for the glass to expand when the weather changes. In addition to the replacement glass pane, you'll need: latex glazing putty; metal glazing points; pliers; a heat gun; flexible putty knife; 1- or 2-inch, stiff, steel, putty knife; and a flathead screwdriver. Also check out these other articles on replacing broken window panes in: steel-casement windows; sliding-sash windows; and metal storm windows.

Cheat Sheet / Updated 10-18-2022

Throughout my books and teachings, I always say get started now versus later. Whatever you declutter today will help you tomorrow, so start small and stay consistent. These quick tips can be a reference guide to help you get started or keep you motivated in between your decluttering sessions.

Step by Step / Updated 10-18-2022

Chalk paint can be used to paint almost anything — walls, kitchen cabinets, metal, wood, and even fabric — but the most common use is to give new life to old furniture or to make newer pieces look old. The great thing about chalk paint is that there isn't a huge learning curve or a lot of prep work. You can just dive right in.

Article / Updated 10-11-2022

Before you begin painting your home's interior walls, ceilings, woodwork, doors, or windows, you need to estimate the amount of paint you'll use. Estimates require specific calculations for each surface you want to paint. To estimate the amount of paint you need in order to cover the walls of a room, add together the length of all the walls and then multiply the number by the height of the room, from floor to ceiling. The number you get is the room's square footage. Is that math class coming back to you now? How to determine square footage Now you have to determine how much of that square footage is paintable surface area. Because you use a different paint on the doors and windows, subtract those areas from the room total. No sweat, just subtract 20 square feet for each door and 15 square feet for each average-sized window in the room. You end up with a number that is close to the actual wall area you have to cover with paint. In general, you can expect 1 gallon of paint to cover about 350 square feet. You need slightly more than a gallon if the walls are unpainted drywall, which absorbs more of the paint. You also need to consider whether to paint more than one coat. If you're painting walls that are unfinished, heavily patched, or dark in color, plan on applying two coats of paint. When painting a dark color, pros often add a color tint to the white primer. Tints for both latex or alkyd paints are available at most paint stores. For best results, choose a tint shade that's closest to the top coat color. Now for the clincher of the math problem. Divide the paintable wall area by 350 (the square-foot coverage in each gallon can) to find the number of gallons of paint you need for the walls. You can round uneven numbers; if the remainder is less than .5, order a couple of quarts of wall paint to go with the gallons; if the remainder is more than .5, order an extra gallon. Of course, buying in bulk is usually more economical, so you may discover that 3 quarts of paint cost as much as a gallon. Examples of calculations The following examples walk you through the calculations for determining how much paint you need for a 14-x-20-foot room that's 8 feet tall and has two doors and two windows. Ceiling paint calculator Use the following formula to estimate the amount of ceiling paint you need. Double the result if the ceiling requires two coats. 1. Multiply the length of the ceiling times its width to find its area. 14 × 20 = 280 square feet 2. Divide that number by 350 (the estimated square feet covered per gallon) to figure out how many gallons of paint you need. 280 ÷ 350 = .8 For this example, you want to buy 1 gallon of ceiling paint for a single coat. Wall paint calculator Use the following formula to estimate the amount of wall paint you need. Double the result if the walls require two coats. 1. Add together the length of each wall. 14 + 20 + 14 + 20 = 68 feet 2. Multiply the sum by the wall height, to find the total wall area. 68 × 8 = 544 square feet 3. Subtract 20 square feet for each door (20 × 2 = 40) and 15 square feet for each window (15 × 2 = 30) to find the actual amount of wall area you're painting. 544 – 70 = 474 square feet 4. Divide this figure by the paint coverage (350 square feet per gallon), and the result is the number of gallons to purchase. 474 ÷ 350 = 1.4 For this example, you want to buy 1 gallon and 2 quarts of paint for a single coat. Woodwork paint calculator Measure the length of the trim in feet, and multiply that number by 1/2 foot (.5), as a rough size for the width of the trim. Include all the trim around doors and windows, at baseboards, along the ceiling, and for any built-in furniture. As an example, imagine that you have ceiling molding running around a room that is 14 feet wide and 20 feet long. 1. Determine the total length of molding around the room by adding together the length of all the walls that the molding covers. Round the numbers off to the nearest foot. 14 + 20 + 14 + 20 = 68 feet 2. Multiply the sum by .5 for an estimated width of the molding. 68 × .5 = 34 square feet 3. Divide this number by 350 to estimate the gallons of paint required to cover the molding. 34 ÷ 350 = .09 The result in this example is much less than a quart, but you may paint other woodwork in the room the same color, so buying a full quart may not be terribly wasteful. Door and window calculator Use the same figure for estimating door coverage as you use in your wall-area calculations — 20 square feet = one door. Multiply the number of doors by 20, doubling the answer if you plan to paint both sides. Wall paint estimates allow for 15 square feet for each window. Use about half that window area to figure trim and inside sash — the glass isn't important to the calculation. For the room in this example: 1. Multiply the number of doors by 20. 2 × 20 = 40 square feet 2. Multiply the number of windows by 7.5. 2 × 7.5 = 15 square feet 3. Add these numbers together. 40 + 15 = 55 4. Divide the result by 350 (the estimated square feet covered per gallon). 54 ÷ 350 = .16 Often, you end up needing to buy only a quart of paint, which goes a long way on doors and window trim. See also: How to Paint Ceilings and Walls How to Paint Paneled Doors How to Paint Trim Tools You Need for a Basic Paint Project

Article / Updated 10-11-2022

Don't wait hours for the next available electrician — changing out a light switch is fairly easy. Most modern switches have screw terminals on each side with holes in the back to accept the end of the wire. How to wire a light switch Loosen the screws on the side of the device with a standard screwdriver (turning counterclockwise). You may find getting the wires out of the back of the device tricky. To remove these wires, insert the blade of a small screwdriver into the slot under the hole into which the wire is inserted and push in as you pull the wire loose. Pushing the blade of the screwdriver into the slot releases the grip on the inserted wire. Here are some descriptions of each wire and where they go: The white (neutral) wire connects to the silver screw, or you place it in the back wire hole on the same side of the device as the silver screw. The black (hot) wire goes to the brass screw or into the hole in the back of the device on the same side as the brass screw. This wire is sometimes red. The green or bare copper (ground) wire, if the device has one, attaches to the green screw terminal on the switch or to the electrical box. Although plug-in connections may be more convenient, they are less reliable than those with screw terminals, so don't use them! Replacing single-pole light switches If the switch has On and Off embossed on its body and it's the only switch that controls lights or receptacles, it's a single-pole switch. To replace this kind of switch, follow these steps: Turn off the power to the switch at the main circuit breaker or fuse panel. Unscrew and remove the switch plate; then use a voltage tester to make sure that the circuit is dead. Unscrew the switch from the electrical box and pull it out with the wires still attached. Two or three wires will be attached to the switch: an incoming hot wire, which is black; a return wire, which carries the load to the fixture and may be black, red, or any other color except green; and sometimes a grounding wire, which is green or bare copper. There may be other wires in the box, but you are only dealing with the ones connected directly to the switch. You may find a white wire that has black tape on it connected to the switch. This tape indicates that the white wire is being used as a black or colored wire in the switch leg, so it's not neutral. Compare your new switch with the one you're replacing to find the corresponding locations for the electrical screw connectors. Because the power is off, you can match up the connectors the easy way: Instead of disconnecting all the wires at once and possibly getting confused, unscrew and connect one wire at a time. Attach the first wire you unscrew to the same-colored screw on the new switch as it was on the old; do the same with the second. To connect a wire to a terminal, strip off about 1/2 inch of insulation, using a wire stripper, and twist the end into a clockwise loop with long-nose pliers. The loop must wrap at least two-thirds but no more than three-quarters of the way around the terminal screw. Hook the wire clockwise around the screw so when you tighten the screw with a screwdriver, the clockwise force of the tightening screw makes the loop wrap tighter around the screw. Gently push the new, wired switch back into the electrical box and screw it in place. Screw on the switch plate and turn on the power. Replacing three-way light switches A three-way switch is a handy convenience to control a light from two locations, such as at the top and bottom of a staircase. If the words On and Off aren't embossed on the switch and it's one of two switches that control a single light or receptacle, you have a three-way switch. Seems like it should be called a two-way switch, right? The name refers to the fact that these switches have three terminal screws. To replace a three-way switch, follow these steps: Turn off the power to the switch at the circuit or fuse panel. Unscrew and remove the switch plate; then use a voltage tester to make sure that the circuit is dead. Unscrew the switch from the electrical box and pull it out with the wires still attached. A three-way switch has at least three wires, and possibly four, depending on whether it has a ground wire. Two wires attach to brass screw terminals, which are usually at the top of the switch, and an additional wire attaches to a dark-colored (not green) screw terminal, which is usually at the bottom of the switch. Mark this third wire with a piece of tape and mark the wire on the same side of the switch directly above it with a piece of different-colored tape. The new switch may have the electrical screw connectors in slightly different locations than the switch you're replacing. Most switches have a pair of terminals on opposite sides of the switch top and a single terminal at the bottom. Remove the wires from the switch. Attach the tagged wires to the corresponding terminals of the new switch. Alternatively, you may choose to transfer one wire at a time from the old switch to the new switch. If the existing switch has a green ground wire, attach the wire to the green screw terminal on the new switch or to the electrical box. Push the new, wired switch back into the electrical box and screw it in place. Screw on the switch plate and turn on the power. Replacing four-way light switches If the switch doesn't have the words On and Off embossed on its body and it's the center switch of three switches that control a single light or receptacle, it's a four-way switch. To replace a four-way switch, follow these steps: Turn off the power to the switch at the circuit panel or fuse box. Unscrew and remove the switch plate; then use a voltage tester to make sure that the circuit is dead. Unscrew the switch from the electrical box and pull it out with the wires still attached. This switch has at least four screw terminals. It may also have a fifth, ground terminal (green). Mark the location of the four wires with tape so that you can replace them on the new switch; then remove the wires from the switch. Alternatively, you may choose to transfer one wire at a time from the old switch to the new switch. Attach the wires to the corresponding terminals of the new switch. If the existing switch has a green ground wire, attach it to the green terminal on the new switch or to the electrical box. Push the new, wired switch back into the electrical box and screw it in place. Screw on the switch plate and turn on the power. Replacing light switches with a dimmer Replacing a standard single-pole or three-way switch with a dimmer switch is no different than replacing a standard switch. Remember: Dimmer switches don't work on most fluorescent fixtures, and low-voltage lighting requires special low-voltage dimmers. Check the rating of the dimmer switch you purchase. Most dimmer switches can handle 600 watts of power. Count the number of light bulbs that the switch controls and add up the maximum wattage bulb allowed for the fixture. For example, if the switch controls a light fixture that accommodates up to two 100-watt bulbs (200 watts total) a 600-watt dimmer will have no problem, but a string of seven recessed lights could overload the dimmer. To replace a standard switch with a dimmer switch, follow these steps: Turn off the power to the switch at the circuit or fuse panel. Unscrew and remove the switch plate; then use a voltage tester to make sure that the circuit is dead. Unscrew the switch from the electrical box and pull it out with the wires still attached. Remove the wires from the old switch. Dimmer switches are usually connected to the house wiring by short lengths of wire coming out of the switch body rather than by screw terminals. Use the connectors (wire nuts) supplied with the fixture to attach the black wires coming out of the dimmer switch to the colored wires that were attached to the terminals on the old switch. First, twist the wires together, and then screw on the wire nut. Push the new switch back into the electrical box and screw it in place. The body of a dimmer is larger than the switch being replaced. Don't just force it in. Often, you need to reposition or better organize the wires first to make room for it. Screw on the switch plate. Push the control knob, if there is one, onto the shaft protruding from the switch. Turn on the power.

Step by Step / Updated 09-14-2022

Fixing wallpaper bubbles or bumps is a simple, five-minute process. Knowing how to fix wallpaper bubbles and bumps prevents further damage like tears or rips. Wallpaper bubbles occur when a glob of wallpaper paste wasn’t smoothed out when the paper was hung or when a weak bond between the wallpaper and wall causes the wallpaper to lift. To fix a bump caused by excess adhesive, you'll need a damp sponge, a utility knife, a syringe, seam roller, tweezers, and glue.

Article / Updated 05-27-2022

The bed is the key piece of furniture in any bedroom, and it naturally becomes the focal point. Bedroom furniture is traditionally arranged according to a few general rules. For the most part based on common sense, here are some general guidelines for you to follow: Credit: ©iStockphoto.com/hikesterson Traditionally, folks tend to place a double, queen-sized, or king-sized bed against the center of the wall opposite the main door to the room. With this arrangement, the headboard is the center of attention as you enter the room. If the dimensions of your room prevent you from positioning your bed on the wall across from the door, other possible choices depend on which walls are long enough to accommodate the bed. Diagonal placement works well when you have the space. Do not place a bed under a window, if the window will frequently be open. Open windows can create uncomfortable drafts. Positioning a bed between two windows, however, works well. If your home is air-conditioned or heated year-round and the windows are seldom open, you may be able to ignore this rule. Do not place the bed where it obstructs a door into the room or a walkway through the room. Consider nontraditional furniture arrangements if doing so will free up space or use space in a more interesting way. For example, a bed may look dramatic placed in front of a secure window; on a diagonal, which takes up extra space; sideways along a wall, to maximize floor space; or in an alcove (a technique called lit clos). If your closet is large enough and you'd like to free-up floor space, put your chest of drawers inside your walk-in closet. Doing this will let you add additional pieces of furniture, such as a writing desk, a seating group, or a big screen TV, to transform any bedroom into a luxury suite. Bedrooms used by a specific group of people have unique needs. Whether you're decorating a master bedroom, a guest room, or a room for children, the following sections provide you with the tips you need. Master bedrooms A master bedroom doesn't have to be huge, but it does need to offer the amenities you need. If your space is less masterful than you'd like, look at some of the following suggestions for decorating your bedroom: Make the bedroom look larger by eliminating clutter. Use only necessary furniture. If you can, push a chest of drawers into a walk-in closet to free up floor space. Keep the bed visually low. Use a headboard, but don't use a footboard, and opt for something other than a four-poster bed, all of which tend to take up space visually, making the room seem smaller. Keep all your furniture — like the rest of your color scheme — light. Light colored furniture, walls, floors, window treatments, and bedding make a room seem bigger. Regardless of the size of your master bedroom, the following tips can help you to make it as comfortable as possible: Add bedside tables that are as big as space will allow. If you read or watch TV in bed, you'll find these tables helpful. You can buy restaurant café tables for very little money and drape them with quilts. Try to make room for at least one comfortable chair. Chairs are great for company on a sick day, for daytime resting, or for reading. Consider carpeting all bedroom floors to reduce noise in the room. Add a lady's desk — a small, delicately proportioned furnishing for writing letters and so forth — if you have room. Teen bedrooms Teenagers usually know what they want in a bedroom and aren't slow to tell you that they need storage for books and music and space for their collections of just about anything you can name. They have firm ideas about style and colors, so ask! And when your son or daughter requests a wild color, do your best to persuade him or her to use it as an accent. More and more activities from surfing the Net to entertaining take place in a teen's room. Extra seating and small tables provide space for visitors. Keep furnishings practical and easy to care for. Children's bedrooms Nurseries must be planned with the child's future years in mind. But from the beginning, make room for a changing table near the crib. As always, keep safety in mind. The following tips will help you do all of these things: Keep cribs away from windows and window blind cords. Make sure cribs and bunk beds meet federal safety standards. Check to see that mattresses fit snugly against the crib's sides. Slats, spindles, rods, and corner posts should be no more than 2-3/8 inches apart from each other. Make sure a child can't release the drop side of a crib. Choose chests and cabinets that can't be tipped over (even when drawers are opened and a child crawls up and into them). This may call for fastening them to the wall for security. Find hardware that's rounded, sanded, and has no sharp edges. Equip all electrical outlets with plastic safeguard plugs. Eliminate any small throw rugs on slippery floors. Make sure all flooring is skidproof. Eliminate dangling cords on window blinds. Choose bunk beds with sturdy ladders, handrails, and safety rails. Make sure you have a guest bed for occasional sleepovers. A trundle bed, which neatly stores a second bed beneath a regular one, is the ideal solution for children's rooms. Guest bedrooms Setting aside a room for guests makes their stay more comfortable not only for them, but also for you. You can furnish the guest room with a marvelous bed and all the necessary furnishings and forget about it. Check out the following suggestions for ways to make your guest room comfortable: Buy a handsome, space-saving daybed or sofa bed that fits smartly against the wall and out of the way. The versatility of these beds makes them a delightful option in a home office or other double-duty room. You may even consider installing a Murphy bed that hides away in a closet. Make sure that your guest has plenty of closet space. Dedicate two sets of sheets, a comforter, special pillows, a duvet cover, and pillow shams to your guest room.

Video / Updated 04-21-2022

Audio Transcript To remove ordinary wallpaper, you need to gather a few simple items. A pre-tape drop cloth A bucket of water A paint roller and pan A perforator A scraper (which looks a lot like a putty knife but has a slot for replaceable blades) Wallpaper removing solvent And a bucket full of patients The first step is to protect the floor and molding from water damage. Use a pre-taped plastic drop cloth and tape it to the top of the baseboard floor molding. Go all around the perimeter of the area and then unfold it into the room to cover the floor. If you skip this step, it can get messy, not to mention the damage that water can do to floors and baseboards. The second step is to score the wallpaper with a razor scraper or perforating tool. It's a perfect gadget for removing wallpaper from walls made of wall board or drywall, because it won't damage the paper face of the wall board. And that means you won't have to spend time repairing the walls later. When you score the paper with holes or slits it allows the moisture, when applied, to break down the adhesive. If at any time you notice the razor is getting dull, be sure to change it. The next step is to mix the wallpaper removing solvent with water. The solvent breaks down the adhesive, so that the wall covering loosens and can easily be scraped off. Use either a 50/50 combination of vinegar and water or a 25/75 solution of liquid laundry softener and water. The fourth step is to apply the wallpaper solvent with a paint roller or a liquid sprayer. Start with a three foot section of wallpaper. After a few applications of moisture and a little time to let it soak in, you'll be ready for the next step. Now peel and scrape off the wet paper. Work on a three foot wide section of the wall at a time and then move on to the next area. As you scrape off the old wallpaper, let it fall onto the plastic drop cloth. When all the wallpaper is removed, use a sponge and some warm water to remove any excess paste from the walls. Then just roll up the entire mess — wallpaper, drop cloth and all.

Video / Updated 04-20-2022

Painting the corners and edges on a wall is the meticulous part; once you've done that, you're ready to paint the main part of the wall. Be sure you have the right tools — having the right roller for the surface of your walls is critical.