Hobby Farming Articles

Article / Updated 05-18-2023

In the autumn of 2006, a beekeeper in Florida filed the first report of a sudden and unexplained disappearance of his bees. They didn't die. They just packed up and left. More reports of heavy losses (mostly from commercial migratory beekeepers) quickly followed. In subsequent years, beekeepers have reported losing anywhere from 30 percent to 90 percent of their hives. Like a firestorm, this tragedy has swept across nearly all of the United States as well as some countries overseas. It has affected both commercial beekeepers and hobbyists. It is a far-reaching problem that has serious consequences. Colony collapse disorder (CCD) is characterized by the sudden and unexplained disappearance of all adult honey bees in the hive, usually in the fall. In one scenario, a few young bees and perhaps the queen may remain behind while the adults disappear. Or in another scenario, there may be no bees left in the hive. Honey and pollen are usually present, and there is often evidence of recent brood rearing. This abrupt evacuation is ordinarily highly unusual because bees are not inclined to leave a hive if there is brood present. Another puzzling characteristic is that opportunists (such as robbing bees from other hives, wax moths, and small hive beetles) are slow to invade colonies experiencing CCD. There are no adult bees present to guard the hive and lots of goodies to loot, yet these invaders stay clear. Hmmm. What do they know that the beekeeper doesn't? Sometimes (rarely) bees abscond from a hive because conditions are too unpleasant to remain in the hive: too hot, too many pests, not enough food, no queen, and so on. But CCD is different from such absconding. Conditions don't appear to be unfavorable. And it's happening at an alarming rate. Colonies that experience CCD have the following characteristics: All or nearly all of the bees pack up and leave within a two- to four-week time period. But there are no dead adult bodies. In some instances the queen and a small number of young-aged survivor bees are present in the brood nest. There are no or very few dead bees in the hive or at the hive entrances. Capped brood is left behind. There is stored pollen and capped honey. Empty hives are not quickly invaded by opportunists (robbing bees, wax moths, small hive beetles, and so on).

Article / Updated 04-27-2023

If you're new to raising goats in your effort to live sustainably, you may not know that rumination is a good indicator of your goat's health. Because rumination is an essential part of how goats digest food, you can use cud-chewing habits as an indicator of goat health. A ruminating goat is eating and generating heat and energy. You can determine whether a goat is ruminating in two ways: by looking for cud-chewing and by listening to the goat's body. Digestion Goats are ruminants, which means that they have four stomach compartments and part of their digestive process includes regurgitating partially digested food and chewing it, called ruminating. This kind of digestive system needs a plant-based diet. The goat stomach consists of three forestomachs — the rumen, reticulum, and omasum — and a true stomach, the abomasum. The forestomachs are responsible for grinding and digesting hay, with the help of bacteria. The last compartment, the abomasum, is similar to the human stomach and digests most proteins, fats, and carbohydrates. A goat's rumen is located on the left side of the abdomen. You can watch this area or feel the side of the abdomen for movement. The rumen is the largest of the forestomachs, with a 1- to 2-gallon capacity. Rumination Signs The best way to determine whether a goat is ruminating and the strength and frequency of rumination is to listen. Often, ruminations are loud enough that you can hear them by just sitting next to the goat. If you can't hear them, put your head up to the left side of your goat's abdomen. If you still have trouble hearing ruminations, use a stethoscope. You can purchase an inexpensive stethoscope from a livestock supply catalog. Healthy ruminations are loud, sound kind of like a growling stomach, and occur about two or three times a minute. If they are weak or infrequent, give your goat some roughage and probiotics ("good" microbes given orally that protect against disease) to stimulate the rumen and to add to the rumen bacteria. Look around your herd to see whether each goat is chewing its cud. A good time for this is the early afternoon, when the goats are resting before their last go at the pasture for the day. Usually, at least two-thirds of them will be ruminating at the same time. Take a closer look at any goats that aren't chewing cud. If they don't look well in some other way, go up to them and listen for rumination sounds.

Article / Updated 09-01-2022

As part of your sustainable lifestyle, you'll want to be able to handle the routine birth of goats without calling in a vet. As the time nears for your goat to kid, you may get just as nervous as she does. She most likely can kid on her own, but you want to make sure that she has a clean, safe place to do so. Here are some tips on how to tell when your goat is getting close to kidding. Reading the ligaments A goat's rump is normally flat and solid, but as a doe gets to the end of pregnancy, that changes. Her tailbone becomes elevated, and the ligaments that connect it to her pelvis begin to stretch and loosen in preparation for the journey the kid (or kids) will make from her body. Sometimes you can tell that she will kid soon when you see a hollow on either side of the tail. One of the best ways to identify an impending kidding is to feel the two tail ligaments located on each side of the tail. Feel a doe that isn't pregnant and you will notice that those ligaments are very firm. The same will be true of a doe that is pregnant but not ready to kid. When these ligaments begin to get soft, and then completely vanish, you know that the goat is due to kid within 24 hours. You may make a mistake the first few times you try to read the ligaments, but over time you find the technique to be almost foolproof. Check the ligaments on a goat to tell whether she is going to kid. A few weeks before the doe is ready to kid, start feeling her ligaments routinely. One day you will find that they've turned to mush, and then you will know that it's time to put her in the kidding pen. Identifying other signs of impending kidding Besides softened ligaments, a doe will show other signs of kidding. Each doe might exhibit different signs, so keep an eye out for a change in behavior. Some other signs to look for include Isolation: The doe stands off from the crowd, sometimes seeming "spaced out." Mucus discharge: You may observe some whitish or yellowish discharge on her vulva. Firm, shiny udder: Her udder may become tight and filled up, called bagging up. Loss of appetite: She may become uninterested in food. Personality change: She may start fighting with other goats or become overly friendly to you when she was previously standoffish. Restlessness: She may lie down, then get up, paw at the ground, and just seem uncomfortable. When you have checked her ligaments and they're soft, or when you notice her exhibiting any or a combination of these signs around her due date, put her in the kidding pen, give her some fresh hay or alfalfa and observe her in this environment. When you have determined to your satisfaction that this is the day, turn on the baby monitor and leave her to focus on the mysterious process of having a kid.

Article / Updated 09-01-2022

If you're raising goats as part of a green, sustainable lifestyle, you'll want to milk them. Hand-milking a goat isn't difficult, but you do have to practice to be efficient at it. Some goats are like cows and have teats that are large enough for you to use all your fingers on them, while others are so small that you can only use three fingers. Never pull on the teat. This is not how milk is extracted, and it can cause injury to the mammary system. Wrap your thumb and forefinger around the teat to trap the milk and then gently squeeze it out. You need few supplies to milk a goat: Milk stand: Although people milk their goats in every situation imaginable, investing in a milk stand will make milking easier. Stainless steel bucket: Start with a six-quart bucket unless you're milking Nigerian Dwarves or Pygmies, which require a smaller one because they're shorter. Udder-washing supplies: You can use an old plastic coffee can with hot water and dish soap, rags made from towels cut into smaller pieces, and paper towels for drying. You need to wash the container after every milking and rinse with boiling water or a bleach solution (one part bleach to ten parts water). Teat sanitizing supplies: You need teat dip and cups or spray teat sanitizer, which you can purchase from a dairy supply company or feed store. Stainless steel strainer and milk filters: You can buy strainers and filters from a dairy supply company or feed store. Jars for milk storage: Half-gallon mason jars with plastic lids work great, because the plastic doesn't rust when it gets wet. To hand-milk a goat, follow these steps: Get the goat onto the milk stand and secure her in the stanchion with some grain for her to eat. Wash your hands. Clean the udder and teats with warm water and soap or sanitize with a wipe such as Milk Check Teat Wipes and dry them with a clean paper towel. Make sure to thoroughly dry your hands. Wrap your fingers and thumb around each teat to trap some milk in the teat and squeeze to quickly milk one or two squirts from each teat into a cup. This step allows you to check for abnormalities and removes any milk close to the surface of the teat that is more likely to be contaminated with bacteria. If the milk is abnormal, dispose of it after milking. Promptly milk the goat using a sanitized bucket, being careful not to pull on the teats. If you take too long to milk, the goat may start dancing or causing other mischief. When you think the udder is empty, massage the back and bottom of the udder and bump it gently with your fist in the front near the teats to encourage further let-down. Pour the milk through a clean, filtered strainer into a clean jar. Dip or spray the teats with a sanitizer such as Derma Sept Teat Dip. If you use dip cups, use a clean one for each goat to avoid cross-contamination. Return the goat to the herd. Have some fresh hay or alfalfa and fresh water available for the goat right after milking. She will eat and drink, instead of lying down and exposing an open teat orifice to bacteria. Clean the bucket and strainer and air dry. Rinse the bucket and strainer with tepid water right away. Wash with warm soapy water and rinse with boiling water or a solution of one part bleach to ten parts water. To practice milking without fear of injuring the goat, use a rubber glove filled with water and tied shut at the top. This will give you an idea of how closing the teat (finger) off from the udder (hand) traps the water in the finger, allowing you to capture the liquid by squeezing the teat.

Article / Updated 09-01-2022

Whether you're raising goats as pets or to supplement your green lifestyle, one of the most important parts of being a goat owner is making sure that they're healthy. You can do it when you're feeding, or just go out and watch them. The bonus is that hanging out with goats is relaxing! A healthy goat has shiny eyes and glossy hair and is curious and energetic, unless resting and chewing cud. If you're watching your goats and one of them seems a bit off, you can take a few simple steps to investigate further. Here are some simple clues to determine whether your goat is healthy: Posture A healthy goat usually has her head and tail up, stands erect, and holds her ears erect. That doesn't mean that every time a goat has her tail or ears down that she is sick. It's just a sign to be considered along with other signs. A goat that doesn't feel well will hunch with tail down and not be as responsive to external stimuli. A goat with an upset stomach, bloat, or urinary calculi will stretch out repeatedly, trying to relieve the pressure or discomfort or trying to pee. This abnormal posture is a sign that you need to check out the problem immediately. Goat cries If a goat is truly hungry or thirsty, his bleat is persistent. A sick goat sometimes moans or makes a stressed-out sounding cry, but more often you notice that she isn't crying but is away from the herd, suffering silently. Bucks in rut will make some of the craziest snorting, bleating noises you've ever heard. Some female goats (does) cry out in little short bursts when they're in heat. A doe that is giving birth (kidding) can also be quite noisy, although some approach the task silently. During the first stage of labor, they whine more than cry, especially if they want you there with them the whole time. Others are pretty discreet until it's time to push the baby out and then they let loose with a loud, long cry to tell you that it's time. Listen, and learn your goats' cries; the knowledge will serve you well. Temperature A goat's normal temperature is around 101 to 104 degrees Fahrenheit, depending on the individual goat. A goat's temperature can also go up or down throughout the day. On a hot day, you can expect some of your goats to have higher temperatures. A goat with a high temperature often has an infection and can quickly become dehydrated, while a goat with a low temperature (hypothermia) may have rumen trouble or be so sick that he is unable to stay warm. This goat needs to be warmed or he will die. To determine what's normal for each of your goats, take their temperature several times when they're healthy and note the number in their health records. Make sure you measure their temperatures on a hot day and a normal day so that you get an accurate baseline to compare with if a goat gets sick, as well as an idea of what variations might occur. Other signs to watch for A goat's posture, cries, and temperature will tell you a lot about their health. Here are some other behaviors and symptoms that should concern you: Not chewing cud Not getting up Pressing her head against wall or fence Not eating Not urinating or straining to urinate Not drinking Pale gray eyelids or gums Hot udder Limping or staggering Ears held oddly Isolating himself from the herd Grinding teeth Coughing Runny nose or eyes If you observe any of these signs in a goat, head to the vet right away.

Article / Updated 09-01-2022

If you've decided to raise goats to further your sustainable lifestyle, before you bring them home, you need to provide them shelter and bedding. Bedding for goats has two purposes: to provide a more comfortable area on which goats can walk and lie down and to absorb the goats’ urine and feces. You have several options for bedding: Straw: Straw is easy to store because it comes in bales, and it’s inexpensive. Wheat straw is preferable to other straws because it's easier to muck out when used, it's less dusty, and the goats like to eat it when it’s fresh. Wood shavings: Depending on where you live, wood shavings may be a better option. If you’re in a region with little rain, you won’t have a problem with storage, because you can even keep it outside. Wood pellets: Wood pellets absorb urine and odors but are too hard and uncomfortable by themselves for goats to use as bedding. They also are expensive. When the bedding gets saturated with water, urine, and feces, it becomes a perfect breeding ground for flies and parasites and must be mucked out. Mucking out a barn involves removing all the used bedding down to the floor and replacing it with clean bedding to prevent the spread of parasites and other problems. How frequently you need to muck your barn depends on the size of the area and how many goats you have. In the winter, if you live in a cold area, you can allow the muck to build up and add new bedding to the top. This provides extra heat for the goats from the composting bedding under the fresh layer. In the summer, you may be able to get away with mucking only once a month or so if your goats spend more time outdoors. If you have a large area to be mucked and are lucky enough to have a tractor or similar equipment, you can use that. But if you have only a backyard or a small homestead, you’ll have to muck by hand. To muck a barn by hand, you need Gloves Muck boots or old shoes A pitchfork A wheelbarrow Pace yourself. If you have a large area, start on one side and finish that first. You can do the other half the next day. It can help to have one or two people removing the used bedding and one running the wheelbarrow. Use gloves to prevent blisters and muck boots to keep your shoes and clothes clean. If the used bedding is very deep, to save your back, take it off in layers with your pitchfork rather than trying to lift huge chunks. Move all of the used bedding to a single pile in a place where goats won’t be tempted to play on it. The pile may seem high at first, but with rain and time, it will shrink down to nice compost. Some people cover their muck pile with a tarp to aid in composting. Because goat manure doesn’t burn plants like chicken manure does, you can put it directly on the garden, if you choose.

Article / Updated 09-01-2022

Before you bring your goats home, you need to build them a shelter. Goatkeepers have come up with a lot of different ideas for goat shelters. These can range from a "Taj Mahal," if you have space and a lot of money to spend, to a very simple shelter when you don't have land or money. Before you build your shelter, find a flat, dry area where the shelter will sit level. Don't plan a shelter next to a fence, or your goats will soon be on the other side of the fence. They love to jump on things! Here are some ideas for simple economical goat shelters that you can build: Used pallets: Build a simple three-sided shelter made from wood pallets covered with plywood. You can get free pallets from factories, building sites, large farms, and farm stores. You need to purchase two-by-fours, plywood, and roofing materials. The shelter shown here has a wood floor and a roof made from leftover metal roofing. Two to four medium-sized goats can sleep comfortably in this shelter out of the rain or sun. Old roofing material and pallets can become a sleeping shelter for goats. Cattle panel and tarp Quonset hut: This kind of shelter can work well for meat goats in a milder climate. It is open on both ends. Because the heavy cattle panel is strong enough to withstand snow, this shelter could work in harsher climates if you build it next to a barn as an adjunct shelter. Directions for building one are at southeastllamarescue.org. Dog run: A dog run works well for a few small goats in a back yard. You can purchase a cover made with a tarp and in colder weather you can put tarps all the way or partly around it. Or you can put in a dog house for sleeping quarters. If it is covered on top, and also because of its height, it provides nighttime security after you latch the door because other animals can't get over and into it. Wood frame shelter: You can make a wood frame shelter of any size and use metal or regular shingle roofing. As long as the area has proper drainage, you don't need to put a floor in the shelter. Just cover the dirt with plenty of bedding. You can make this kind of shelter with a door, partially enclosed on one side or open on one side.

Article / Updated 09-01-2022

Caring for your goats is a lot easier if your goats have some basic training and are used to being handled. Nothing is worse than having to chase down and capture a sick goat or having to drag and lift it into a vehicle for a vet visit. Follow these tips to raise well-mannered and manageable goats. Using collars Collars are a useful tool for handling goats. They’re necessary for showing a goat or getting it from one place to another, like in and out of a vehicle for transport. A collar is essential for restraining a goat when grooming, unless you have a milk stand. If you have only a few goats, you can buy collars at the local pet supply store. If you have a larger herd, remember that pet or goat supply catalogs may offer discounts for bulk orders. As you get more comfortable with your goats, consider using a regular dog collar when you need to control a goat and letting it go collarless the rest of the time. Goats that wear collars all the time are at risk of choking if the collar gets hooked on something. Regular handling Goats need regular handling or they can get wild. A wild goat will run from you and struggle to get away. This kind of behavior presents a problem when you need to groom it or do routine maintenance and care. A goat that is handled regularly is more likely to come when called. Here are some important things to remember when you start handling a goat: Goats duck their heads to get away, so keep the goat’s head up with one hand under the chin and one on the top of the neck or by holding the collar up. Be careful not to choke your goat with the collar. To catch a fleeing goat, grab the back leg. Catching a goat by a front leg may break the leg. Avoid chasing a goat. Try luring him with food instead. To handle a horned goat, firmly grasp the base of the horns to lead her. If you expect a veterinarian visit, catch the goat in advance. Restrain the goat in a pen or by tying her to a fence. Use treats to lure a goat that is resistant to handling. Peanuts, carrots, or apple chunks are good choices. Teaching basic manners Goats need basic manners so they don’t hurt you or someone else, especially if they have horns. For mannerly goats, follow these tips and share them with any visitors to your goat herd: Never push on a goat’s head. Pushing simulates butting and teaches the goat that butting humans is all right. Never let a goat kid jump on you or anyone else. Don’t let a goat stand with its front legs on you. Lead-train your goat for basic handling. Don’t let children chase or ride your goats. In addition to making them more fearful, being ridden can break the goats' backs.

Article / Updated 09-01-2022

Part of a green lifestyle may include raising goats. As a goat owner, you need to know how to check your animal’s vital signs. Checking your goat’s temperature, pulse, and respiration can tell you a lot about its overall health. Taking a goat’s temperature Taking a goat’s temperature is easy. You need either a digital or traditional glass thermometer that you can buy from a feed store, a drug store, or a livestock supply catalog. Both types are fairly inexpensive. If you use a glass thermometer, make sure you shake it down before you start so that it reads accurately. Tie a string around one end of a glass thermometer so that you can retrieve it if it goes too far. To take a goat’s temperature, get your thermometer and take the following steps: Immobilize the goat. You can hold a small kid across your lap. Secure an adult in a stanchion, have a helper hold him still, or tie him to a gate or fence. Lubricate your thermometer. Use KY jelly or petroleum jelly. Insert the thermometer a few inches into the goat’s rectum. Hold the thermometer in place for at least two minutes. Slowly remove the thermometer. Read the temperature and record it on the goat’s health record. Clean the thermometer. Use an alcohol wipe or a cotton ball that has been wet with alcohol. A goat’s normal temperature is 102 degrees to 103 degrees Fahrenheit. But it can be a degree higher or lower, depending on the goat. A goat’s temperature can also go up or down throughout the day. On a hot day, you can expect some of your goats to have higher temperatures. To determine what a normal temperature is for your goats, be sure to take their temperatures when they are healthy and keep a record of it. Measure their temperatures on a hot day and a normal day so you have an accurate baseline. Checking a goat’s pulse The normal pulse for an adult goat is 70 to 90 beats per minute. Kids’ heart rates may be twice that fast. To take your goat’s pulse: Make sure she is calm and resting. Find the goat’s artery below and slightly inside the jaw with your fingers. Watch a clock and count the number of heartbeats in 15 seconds. Multiply that number by four to get the pulse rate. Checking a goat’s respiration The normal respiration rate for an adult goat is 10 to 30 breaths per minute. For a kid it is 20 to 40 breaths per minute. To count respirations, simply watch the goat’s side when she is calm and resting. For 60 seconds, count one respiration for each time the goat’s side rises and falls.

Article / Updated 09-01-2022

If you're going to raise goats, you need to watch out for common predators in your area, even if you are well within the city. Most of the animals that we traditionally think of as predators, such as wolves and bobcats, are rarely found in the city. But, smaller predators like dogs and birds of prey are much more common. Young goats, also known as kids, are particularly at risk because they are small and lack life experience. The best way to ensure that your goats are safe, especially if you don’t have a guardian animal, is to make sure that they're secured in a building with no open windows from dusk until dawn. Make sure the door closes and latches to prevent animals from getting in and goats from getting out. Here are some of the more common goat predators to guard against: Domestic or feral dogs: Dogs are the worst predators of goats, attacking and killing more often than any wild animal and doing it for fun rather than because they’re hungry. Dogs go after goats individually or in packs, with pack attacks being the worst. Dogs dig under fences to get to goats. You can identify a dog attack because dogs usually go for a goat’s hind legs and rear end. Goats that are attacked by dogs often have to be euthanized. Coyotes: Eastern coyotes hunt individually, looking for weak members of a herd; western coyotes hunt in packs. You can tell the difference between a coyote attack and a dog attack because dogs chase and try to get as many goats as they can, while coyotes go for the throat and then try to get at a goat’s internal organs. They may even try to carry the animal away for safe eating. Cougars: Cougars hunt individually. They leave tooth punctures and claw marks on the upper torso when they attack a goat. They also have been known to drag their prey a distance away, bury it, and come back later to eat. A good livestock guardian dog will normally deter a cougar unless it is very hungry. If you live in an area with cougars, get more than one livestock guardian dog to protect your goats. Birds: Ravens and black vultures sometimes attack goats, especially when goats are down from sickness or trying to have their kids outside. Ravens peck an animal’s head and gouge out its eyes. Ravens also attack in groups, which causes a problem for goats trying to protect more than one kid. The USDA recommends hanging a vulture carcass (real or fake) to deter vultures. Owls, eagles, and large hawks also may bother small kids, especially if they get separated from their mothers and cry. You can prevent losses to all types of birds by making sure your goats have safe, indoor kidding pens. Other predators: Wolves, bears, foxes, wild pigs, and even feral cats will go after goats if their regular food supply is disrupted. Humans are also predators on goats — some rustling for food, but others killing for the fun of it, or for some other misguided reason. Don’t tether your goats. A tethered goat is a bait for any predator that lives in the area. Instead of tethering your goats, build them a proper fence, or if you need to move them around, use cattle panel sections or electric wire to create a barrier that you can move from place to place during the day. And supervise them or get them a guardian for protection.