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Knowing Your Mexican Chiles

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2016-03-26 22:51:18
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You can’t call yourself a true Mexican-food fanatic without knowing about the variety of chiles used in Mexican cuisine. These chiles, which are both dried and fresh, have a wide range of uses in Mexican cooking:

  • Ancho: The dried version the poblano green pepper. This wrinkled red-brown, wide-shouldered chile has a mellow, sweet flavor, similar to a bell pepper, with just a touch of heat.

  • Chile de arbol: Also known as dried red chiles. The papery thin, long, dried chiles sold by the bag in the supermarket.

  • Chile negro or dried pasilla: This long, narrow, dark brown chile is a dried chilaca chile. Similar in flavor to the more popular ancho, pasillas are often used in combination with other dried chiles in traditional moles.

  • Chipotle: Dried, smoked, red jalapeños. These wrinkled, reddish-brown chiles add a mysterious, smoky, sweet flavor to anything.

  • Habanero: This is one little pepper that lives up to its reputation. It’s pure heat. These small, lantern-shaped peppers are most often used in the Yucatán.

  • Jalapeño, red and green: A thick-fleshed, small (about 3-inch long), bright green or red pepper. Has a sweet, fresh, garden flavor and medium heat.

    Canned jalapeños are not a good substitute for fresh peppers because their taste and texture are quite different.

  • Morita: These small, brown, dried chiles look like thin chipotles but are less smoky with a spicier taste.

  • Poblano: Dark green, medium-sized, thick-fleshed chiles. Sometimes mislabeled pasilla in the West.

  • Serrano: Small, thin serranos are similar to jalapeños but pack a little more punch.

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Mary Sue Milliken may be “a gringa from the Midwest,” but she fell deeply in love with Mexican food when first introduced to it more than 20 years ago. She and fellow chef Susan Feniger became friends in the late ’70s while working in the otherwise all-male kitchen of a prestigious French restaurant in Chicago called Le Perroquet. After honing their skills in fine restaurants in France and America, they opened their first restaurant, the highly celebrated City Café, in Los Angeles in 1981. These days, they divide their time between their three restaurants, Border Grills in Santa Monica and Las Vegas, and the upscale Ciudad in downtown Los Angeles. They also have authored five previous cookbooks, including Mexican Cooking For Dummies, host the popular Television Food Network series, Too Hot Tamales, and are heard regularly on Southern California radio.

Susan Feniger may be “ a gringa from the Midwest,” but she fell deeply in love with Mexican food when first introduced to it more than 20 years ago. She and fellow chef Mary Sue Milliken became friends in the late ’70s while working in the otherwise all-male kitchen of a prestigious French restaurant in Chicago called Le Perroquet. After honing their skills in fine restaurants in France and America, they opened their first restaurant, the highly celebrated City Café, in Los Angeles in 1981. These days, they divide their time between their three restaurants, Border Grills in Santa Monica and Las Vegas, and the upscale Ciudad in downtown Los Angeles. They also have authored five previous cookbooks, including Mexican Cooking For Dummies, host the popular Television Food Network series, Too Hot Tamales, and are heard regularly on Southern California radio.

Helene Siegel is the co-author of City Cuisine, Mesa Mexicana, Cooking with the Too Hot Tamales, and Mexican Cooking For Dummies. She also is the author of The Ethnic Kitchen series and 32 single subject cookbooks in the best-selling Totally Cookbook series. Her articles have appeared in the Los Angeles Times, the Times Syndicate, Fine Cooking, and on the Web at cuisinenet.com.