Windows Articles

Step by Step / Updated 10-18-2022

The trickiest part of replacing broken glass panes in wood-frame windows is getting replacement glass that’s sized exactly right. To replace a broken glass pane in a wood window, you need to measure the precise length and width of the grooves in which the pane will fit. Have the new glass cut so it measures 1/8 inch shorter than the exact groove dimensions in both the length and width. This creates a 1/16-inch gap on each side between the edges of the pane and the rabbet groove. The gap provides room for the glass to expand when the weather changes. In addition to the replacement glass pane, you'll need: latex glazing putty; metal glazing points; pliers; a heat gun; flexible putty knife; 1- or 2-inch, stiff, steel, putty knife; and a flathead screwdriver. Also check out these other articles on replacing broken window panes in: steel-casement windows; sliding-sash windows; and metal storm windows.

Step by Step / Updated 04-20-2022

The trickiest part of replacing broken glass panes in steel-casement windows is getting replacement glass that’s sized exactly right. To replace a broken glass pane in a steel-casement window, you need to measure the precise length and width of the grooves in which the pane will fit. Have the new glass cut so it measures 1/8 inch shorter than the exact groove dimensions in both the length and width. This creates a 1/16-inch gap on each side between the edges of the pane and the rabbet groove. The gap provides room for the glass to expand when the weather changes. In addition to the replacement glass pane, you'll need: latex glazing putty, pliers, heat gun, flexible putty knife, 1- or 2-inch stiff steel putty knife, and a flathead screwdriver.

Step by Step / Updated 04-20-2022

Replacing glass panes in metal storm windows is pretty simple — there’s no messy putty. To replace a glass pane in a metal storm window, you need to measure the precise length and width of the grooves in which the pane will fit. Have the new glass cut so it measures 1/8 inch shorter than the exact groove dimensions in both the length and width. This creates a 1/16-inch gap on each side between the edges of the pane and the rabbet groove. The gap provides room for the glass to expand when the weather changes. In addition to the replacement glass pane, you'll need: pliers, 1- or 2-inch stiff steel putty knife, flathead screwdriver, protective gloves and goggles.

Video / Updated 03-28-2016

Audio Transcript If you have any old or poorly sealed windows, you may need to caulk them. Caulk prevents drafts and keeps moisture from entering, which could cause the paint to peel or the wood to rot. Step one is to gather your tools, a putty knife or scraper, utility knife, a long nail or wire hanger, a tube of caulk, which is generally enough to caulk around an average sized door or window, a caulk gun and a small plastic spoon or ice cream stick. The caulk tube fits into a caulk gun. The gun has a trigger handle that you squeeze to apply pressure to the tube, forcing the caulk out of the nozzle. To seal a window with caulk, whether inside or out, the second step is to use a putty knife or scraper to clean away any old caulk. Step three is to cut the tip of the caulk tube nozzle right near the end at a point where it produces a bead large enough to fill the crack. A quarter inch bead is large enough for most cracks. If you need a large bead, just cut it further down the plastic nozzle. Step four is to puncture the seal in the end of the caulk tube to make the caulk flow. To do that, insert the nail or the end of the hanger into the nozzle, push into the caulk tube until you feel it puncture the seal. Apply the bead of caulk, moving the caulk gun at a measured pace along the crack and using continuous light pressure on the gun trigger. Caulk on all four sides of the window to seal the crack. Step six, smooth the caulk with a plastic spoon, ice cream stick or your wet finger to create a smooth surface. Finally, wash away all the remaining caulk on the caulk gun, your hands or other spots before it dries. You now have a nice, air tight seal.

Video / Updated 03-28-2016

Window shades are easy to install. This video shows you the tools you'll need, and the steps for how to mount shade brackets to the walls and how to rewind the shade so it retracts properly.

Step by Step / Updated 03-27-2016

The trickiest part of replacing glass panes in metal-frame sliding sash windows is getting replacement glass that’s sized exactly right. To replace a pane in the sliding sash of a metal-frame window, you must measure the precise length and width of the grooves in which the pane will fit. Tip: Have the new glass cut so it measures 1/8 inch shorter than the exact groove dimensions in both the length and width. This creates a 1/16-inch gap on each side between the edges of the pane and the rabbet groove. The gap provides room for the glass to expand when the weather changes. For this repair, you'll need just a screwdriver and the replacement glass pane.

Step by Step / Updated 03-27-2016

Caulking windows cuts energy costs by sealing cracks against air infiltration and preventing drafts. Applying caulk to windows also keeps out moisture, which can cause paint to peel and wood to rot.

Step by Step / Updated 03-27-2016

You can install weather stripping to windows reduce heating and cooling costs by 10% to 15% — well worth the effort over the course of several seasons! Weather-stripping your windows also helps block outside noise. Weather stripping for windows comes in many styles: felt, vinyl, or foam rubber on a wood or plastic strip. The easiest type of weather-stripping to install is the adhesive-backed type. Here’s how you can add adhesive-backed V-seal weather stripping to a double-hung window.

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

If your window sashes let in drafts and rattle in their channels, you may want to consider replacing windows. However, a less expensive solution is to install replacement channels in your double-hung windows. Replacing window channels is no walk on the beach, but it does give you an opportunity to clean and repair the windows while they're apart. (Okay, these jobs are no picnic, either.) By replacing the channels, you can have windows that operate more freely and waste less energy, and you save hundreds or thousands of dollars compared to the cost of buying new windows. A typical-size channel kit costs less than $50. Buy new channels at a home center or glass company. They're sold in kits that range in sizes from 3 to 5 feet long, so they fit most sizes of windows. Measure the window opening from the top of the upper sash to the bottom of the lower sash; then choose a channel kit that's slightly larger. The following steps walk you through installing new window channels. Remove the window stops. If the window stops are painted, use a razor knife to cut through the paint film along the line where the stops meet the jambs. To avoid breaking the stops, use a thin pry bar, pry only at nail locations, and work carefully. Pull out the lower sash and then pry out the parting strip to remove the upper sash. Set the sash aside for later, when you can clean it, repaint it, or install new weather-stripping. Release the sash cords from the slots in the sash. Pull the sash cord out of the groove in the edge of the sash. Sometimes, the knotted end is held in place by a small nail. If this is the case, pull out the nail to remove the sash cord. If you're replacing the channels in a double-hung window, this is a good time to replace the sash cords, as well. If your replacement channels are spring-loaded, the sash weights are no longer necessary. In this case, remove and discard the old sash weights and cord and stuff fiberglass insulation loosely into the cavities. If necessary, cut the new channels to length with a hacksaw. Remember: Old windows may not be square. Carefully measure each side of the window jamb and cut the channels to fit. Note that the bottom of the channel is cut at a slight angle to match the slope of the sill. If the precut angle matches the slope of your windowsill, trim the top of the channel; if the angle is different, cut the bottom of the channel to the same angle as your sill. Inspect and clean the sash and stops. If paint is peeling, now is the time to repaint the windows, while they're out of the frame. To prevent paint runs, lay the sash flat on a workbench or across two sawhorses. Sand the sash carefully to remove any dried paint runs or other roughness from the frames and stops. You want to apply only a thin film of paint on the sash, so thin the paint a bit by adding a small amount of water (to latex paint) or mineral spirits (to alkyd paint). Painted surfaces do not slide easily against each other. For this reason, some parts of the window sash, such as the backside of the meeting rails and the inside edges of the stops, are left unpainted. Because painting channels or the edges of the sash may cause them to stick, don't paint any exposed bare wood. Reassemble the window. Replace the upper sash first — it goes in the outside channel — and then place the lower sash in the inside channel. Hold the channels against the sashes and place the bottom of the channels into the window jamb. Then push the assembly into the jamb so that the channels rest against the outside window stop. The unit will stay in place while you install the inside stops. Before you nail the stops permanently in place, test to make sure that the windows operate freely. Don't push the stops too tight against the channels, or the windows will be hard to open.