Showers & Bathtubs Articles

Step by Step / Updated 03-27-2016

A platform bathtub is often enclosed in a framed platform. After the platform is built and the plumbing is roughed in, you place the tub in the platform. It's easier to install a whirlpool tub after you've installed the tile on the top surface of the platform, but you may not have enough room to move the large tub around the bathroom as you build the partitions. If that's the case, install the tub before the tile. Follow these steps to secure the tub in the platform:

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

Caulking the connection between your shower walls and tub prevents leaks and reduces mildew buildup. Removing old caulk and recaulking joints between tiles and your tub is an annual bathroom maintenance job. If you have tile shower walls, there is a very good possibility that a leak could develop between the tile and the tub. As the house moves (a natural process that occurs in every home), a hairline crack can occur that allows water to get into the joint. Once water gets in, there is no telling how much damage can be done. There's another good reason to recaulk. If you've tried to remove the black mildew stains from caulk, you know the blemishes are often unbudging. That's because the stains are often behind the caulk — between the caulk and the wall. The answer, of course, is to remove the caulk, kill the mildew, and then replace the caulk. Removing the caulk isn't as hard as it appears. One company makes a product called Caulk-Be-Gone and another makes an Adhesive & Caulk Remover, two commercial products that can assist you in the job. These products are specially formulated to soften caulk for easy removal. After the caulk has softened (it may take a few hours), remove it with a plastic putty knife. Clean the joint with paint thinner and wipe the area dry with a clean rag. Then clean the joint with this famous mildew cleaner: 1. Add 1 quart of liquid chlorine bleach to 3 quarts of warm water. 2. Add 1/3 cup of powdered laundry detergent. 3. Mix thoroughly and place in a spray bottle. 4. Spray the mixture onto the mildewed area. Let it sit until the black mildew turns white. Rinse with fresh water. Although this mixture is mild, don't forget to wear gloves and eye protection and make sure the area is well ventilated. Make sure the detergent you use is ammonia free. Mixing bleach with a solution containing ammonia can release a dangerous gas harmful to your lungs. Immediately after eradicating the mildew, use a hair dryer or a hot air gun to thoroughly dry out the area. The joint can now be re-caulked. Use a roll of blue painter's masking tape for a professional-looking job. Apply the tape to the tub 1/8-inch from the joint. Next, apply another strip of tape along the wall, 1/8-inch from the joint. Now the caulking will go between the two pieces of tape, making straight, smooth lines. Apply tub and tile caulk into the joint and smooth it with your finger, an old teaspoon, or a caulking spreader. Immediately remove the tape by pulling it out and away from the freshly caulked joint. Be careful not to touch the caulk. Let it dry. You simply won't believe how beautiful your job will look.

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

If you're tired of dealing with a leaky, mildew-stained shower curtain on an existing shower, installing a shower door might be a perfect solution. The installation, which is essentially the same for a stall shower or tub/shower, is a no-brainer. Measuring and cutting the tracks The top and bottom tracks supplied by the manufacturer must be cut slightly shorter than the width of the your shower’s opening. As always, read the manufacturer’s installation instructions carefully before you do anything, and then follow these steps: Use a measuring tape to find the distance from wall to wall along the top edge of the shower base (or tub) and, for the top track, at 6 feet above it. Follow the manufacturer’s directions and subtract the required amount for each track from the total width of the opening. Cut both tracks to length and smooth any rough edges at the cut end with a fine file. Use a hacksaw and a miter box to ensure a square cut. Putting a block of scrap wood in the track and clamping helps keep the track square and in place while you cut it. Locating the bottom track You install the bottom track on the top edge of the shower base or tub. Place the bottom track on the flattest part of the shower base or tub ledge, following the manufacturer’s instructions to determine which side of the track faces out. Make sure that the space between the wall and the ends of the track is the same on both ends. Temporarily secure the track to the ledge with masking tape. Make a light pencil mark on the shower base of tub along the front edge of the track to guide caulk application. Locating the wall jambs The wall jambs are fastened to the sidewalls and support the top track. Ideally, you screw the wall jambs directly to the studs. You can also use sturdy metal anchors to secure the jambs. Place a wall jamb against the wall and push it down over the end of the bottom track so that it’s fully engaged with the track. Hold a carpenter’s level next to the wall jamb and adjust it to plumb. Mark in each mounting-hole location. Remove the wall jamb and drill the holes for the mounting screws or wall anchors. If you’re drilling into ceramic tile, use a carbide-tipped masonry drill bit. Repeat the drilling in the opposite wall for the other wall jamb. Install wall anchors according to instructions where there is no stud available. Caulking the bottom track Lift the bottom track and apply a bead of silicone caulk into the groove on the underside. Then erase your pencil marks and reposition the bottom track in its proper place. Installing the wall jambs Work on one wall jamb at a time and follow these steps: Place one wall jamb into or over the bottom track, depending on the design. Then align the holes in the wall jamb with the holes or screw anchors in the wall. Secure the jamb with the screws supplied by the manufacturer or the anchor. Sliding door kits should include rubber bumpers. Install them over the screws at the top and bottom of the jamb. Repeat the installation on the other jamb. Installing sliding doors Sliding doors hang from the top track so install it over the wall jambs as directed by the manufacturer. Prepare the doors by installing roller and, if applicable, handle/towel bar hardware. Place the rollers on the top frame flange of both door panels and secure them with lock washers and machine screws. Hanging the door panels Installing the door panels is easiest from outside the shower. Follow the installation instructions provided, as details may vary, but the following steps are typical: Install the inside panel first. Lift it up inside the top track and bring it back to vertical as you hang the rollers on the inside rail of the top track and lower it into the bottom track. Install the outside panel by lifting it up inside the top track and hanging the rollers on the outside rail of the top track.

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

Installing a bathtub isn’t an easy do-it-yourself project because it involves working with a large, heavy object in a small space. If you have any misgivings about doing it, hire a plumber who has the experience to install it and the license to hook up the fixtures. If you want to do it yourself, inspect the new tub before you start the installation. Measure its dimensions and check them against the size of the opening. Make sure that the drain outlet is at the correct end of the tub. Look for signs of damage, and then protect the tub surface with a dropcloth. Before you get started on the installation, inspect the floor joists and look for joists that have been weakened by rot or were cut to remove pipes. Remove a rotten joist and replace it. Reinforce a bad joist by fastening a new joist to the existing one with machine bolts. Then install a new subfloor over the joists if necessary. Such work is beyond the capabilities of most DIYers, so don’t hesitate to hire a carpenter if you run into situations that seem like more than you can or want to handle. Gather the following tools and materials to install an acrylic or platform tub. 1-inch galvanized roofing nails 2 x 4s Carpenter’s level Construction adhesive Electric drill and bits Measuring tape Mortar mix Pipe wrench Plumber’s putty Screwdriver Silicone caulk Trowel Wood shims Woodworking tools An acrylic tub is set in a bed of cement — check the manufacturer’s recommendations. The sides are screwed or nailed through flanges into wall studs. The tub is supported on a 1-x-4-inch ledger nailed to the wall studs. In models with integral supports under the tub, you can shim under the supports to compensate for a slightly out-of-level floor. Then you connect the overflow assembly to the tub drain and main drain line, connect faucets to the water supply lines, and hook up plumbing pipes and drain lines.

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

Installing a tub isn’t an easy do-it-yourself project because it involves working with a large, heavy object in a small space. If you have any misgivings about doing it, hire a plumber who has the experience to install it and the license to hook up the fixtures. Placing the ledger board The first step in installing a tub is to set in place a ledger board that supports the edges of the tub that contact the walls of the tub enclosure. Push the tub into the enclosure and mark the top of the flange on the wall studs with a pencil. Measure and mark the location for the top of the ledger, usually about 1 inch below the first mark. Use the manufacturer’s specifications or measure the distance from the top of the flange to the underside of the tub; it’s usually 1 inch. Use coarse drywall screws to fasten the ledger board horizontally and level across the back wall of the alcove. Fasten shorter ledger boards to the ends of the enclosure, level with the board you install on the back wall. Doing so creates a continuous ledge on the tub enclosure wall for the tub to rest on. Hooking up the plumbing It’s easier to install the drain and overflow pipes on the tub before it’s permanently installed in the enclosure. Turn the tub over or rest it on its side and then follow these steps: Follow the manufacturer’s directions and assemble the shoe fitting, which is placed under the tub and the waste pipe. Assemble the overflow fitting with the overflow pipe. Insert the ends of the overflow pipe and waste pipe in the T-fitting. Put this assembly in place to check that shoe and overflow align with the openings in the tub. Place a bead of plumber’s putty around the drain flange and wrap Teflon pipe tape around the threads on its body. Place a rubber washer on the shoe and position the shoe under the tub in alignment with the drain flange. Screw the drain flange into the shoe. Tighten the drain flange. Place the handles of a pair of pliers in the drain flange. Insert the blade of a large screwdriver between the handles of the pliers and use it as a lever to tighten the drain flange. Place a rubber washer on the overflow drain and install the overflow cover with the screws provided. You may want to leave the drain linkage and pop-up assembly out of the tub until you set it in place. Securing the tub Follow these steps to apply mortar to the subfloor of the tub: Mix a batch of mortar according to the package directions. With a notched trowel, spread a 2-inch layer of mortar on the subfloor where the tub will sit. Lift the tub in place and position it so that it’s tight against the walls. Hold a carpenter’s level on the tub and check that it’s level. If not, adjust it by placing wood shims under the tub. After the tub is level, you secure it to the enclosure to keep it that way. Secure the flange to the studs by driving 1-inch galvanized roofing nails through the holes in the flange. If the tub is fiberglass, drill holes at each stud. If it’s a steel or cast-iron tub and it has no holes, or they don’t align with the studs, drive the nails above the top of the flange so that the head of each nail engages the flange. Hammer carefully so as not to damage the tub.

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

Installing a shower requires you to construct wood framing to support the walls of the enclosure. If you place the shower in a corner, you have to construct fewer walls. In any case, the manufacturer supplies a layout plan for the enclosure. Follow it carefully. You usually place the wall studs closer together than on a standard wall. One advantage to installing this type of shower enclosure is that you mount the wall panels directly to the wall studs, so you don’t need drywall or backerboard. Before installing the shower stall, you can install wood backing for grab bars. Consult the manufacturer’s installation instructions to find out what type of backing you need to support a grab bar. In most cases, you should have solid backing of 2 x 6s nailed between the wall studs. The shower enclosure requires a 2-inch drain centered in the enclosure. The rough-in dimensions give the exact measurements for its location. Unless you’re experienced with plumbing, you should leave this part of the project to a professional. To install a shower enclosure, you need these materials: 2 x 4s or 2 x 6s 2-inch masking tape Carpenter’s square Dropcloth Electric drill Hammer Hole saw or jigsaw with fine-tooth blade (32 teeth per inch) Large-head nails Level Measuring tape Pliers Putty knife Screwdrivers Silicone sealant (for shower door installation) Utility knife Woodworking tools After you've created the enclosure, follow these instructions to install the shower: Open the packaging and identify all the components of the enclosure. Place the shower receptor in the enclosure and check that it’s level and doesn’t rock back and forth. You may have to install shims under the receptor to level it. Put the necessary shims in place and retest the level of the shower. When the surface is stable, remove the shims one at a time, apply construction adhesive to them, and replace them. Use galvanized roofing nails to secure the receptor to the wall framing. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendations and drive the nails through the predrilled flange holes, or place the nail against the top of the flange so that the head of the nail catches the flange. Position the panels in the enclosure. Some kits have wall panels that interlock to form watertight seals. In this case, follow the manufacturer’s directions and position the panels in the enclosure in the proper sequence so that they can interlock. Check that the panels fit snugly against the wall framing. You can’t place the panel at the shower valve end of the enclosure against the studs yet because of the rough-in plumbing. Mark the location of the shower valve and shower riser pipe by making a cardboard template of the location of the valve and shower head pipe. Place the template on the shower enclosure panel and drill a pilot hole at the center of the cutout to guide the hole saw. Use a hole saw or jigsaw with a fine-tooth blade to make the holes for the valve controls and the shower head pipe. Install the shower wall panel on which the valve is located. Check that you have all panels properly aligned and square and that you have the shower valve and shower head pipe properly aligned. Fasten the panels to the wall framing with galvanized roofing nails. Wherever you find a gap between the wall stud and the shower wall panel, insert a wood shim before driving the nail. Apply silicone caulk to all joints in the enclosure. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions and use a top-quality caulk. Your next steps are to install the wall finish that covers the flange and complete the plumbing work before moving on to installing a shower door.

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

If you are remodeling your bathroom, chances are you will be installing a new bathtub. That means you have to remove the old one. Don’t attempt to do this job alone. Get two strong helpers to assist with the pulling, lifting, and carrying. If the tub surround has tiles, use a cold chisel to chip away the lowest course of tile around the tub’s perimeter. Remember to wear safety glasses. If the tub has a fiberglass enclosure, cut the enclosure 6 inches above the tub. To remove a built-in tub, follow these steps: Use a screwdriver or pry bar to remove the screws or nails that attach the tub flange to the wall studs. When the tub is free from the walls, use a pry bar to loosen the front of the tub from the floor. Place the end of the bar between the floor and the tub and pry up to raise the tub off the floor. If your floors are tile, you may need to break out a course or two of floor tiles as you did for the walls tiles. Insert several scraps of plywood or cardboard skid under the front edge of the tub. The wood protects the floor and makes it easier to pull the tub out of its enclosure. Slide the tub onto the plywood and pull the tub away from the wall. The challenge is to lift and move the tub safely down a steep staircase. Be careful — making turns can get dicey. If the tub won’t budge, you may have to cut it in pieces. A reciprocating saw with a metal cutting blade cuts through a steel or fiberglass tub. Use a sledgehammer to break up a cast-iron tub, but cover it with an old dropcloth first. To protect yourself, wear long sleeves, long pants, and heavy leather workgloves. And don’t forget safety glasses to protect your eyes.