Plumbing Articles

Step by Step / Updated 10-05-2021

Fixing a leaky toilet tank is a common plumbing repair that you can do yourself. Leaking toilet tanks can be repaired by changing out the rubber gaskets around the tank bolts and the spud washer, which can deteriorate and fail due to hard water and minerals. For this project you'll need the following tools: a screwdriver, adjustable wrench, small wire brush, sponge, white vinegar, and rags. In addition, you'll want to pick up replacement tank bolt gaskets and a new spud washer.

Article / Updated 10-04-2021

Even if you are careful about what you put down your garbage disposal, clogs happen. There are some simple things you can do to keep clogs to a minimum and steps you can take when that inevitable clog occurs. The following actions are what generally cause clogs in your disposal: Dropping a foreign object — usually a spoon or fork — into the disposal Feeding garbage in too rapidly Failing to run enough water (to completely flush out the drainpipes) while garbage is being processed Your garbage disposal can be finicky, so don’t expect it to devour and digest everything. For example, don’t throw corncobs, artichokes, avocado pits, or fish and chicken bones down a disposal and expect it to continue working without a clog. Flip through the owner’s manual to find out what your disposal’s limitations are. Never use chemical drain cleaners in a disposal. The chemicals are highly corrosive and may damage rubber or plastic parts. Use Mother Nature’s deodorizer for your disposal: Every few months, cut a lemon in half, throw one half in the disposal, turn on the unit, and let it run for a minute or two. The lemon removes the build-up of residue on the interior of the disposal and deodorizes the unit. You know it’s working by the fresh lemony smell. Steps for unclogging the disposal If the instructions in your user’s manual are no help, follow these steps to unclog a disposal: Shut off the electrical power switch. This switch is located under the cabinet, near the disposal, or on a wall nearby. If you don’t find a switch, go to the main power panel and turn off the breaker or remove the fuse that powers the disposal. Never put your hand in the disposal. Remember that the switch may be defective, so keep your hands out of the disposal even when power to the machine is turned off. Take a look in the disposal. A flashlight may shed some light on the problem — you may see a large object caught in the disposal. If an object caused the stoppage, use a pair of pliers to reach into the disposal and remove it. Wait 15 minutes for the disposal motor to cool. Turn on the power and push the reset or overload protector button. This button is located on the bottom of the disposal. If the disposal is still clogged, follow these steps: Turn off the power and insert a long dowel, a wooden spoon, or a broom handle — never your hand — into the drain opening. Push the bottom end of the wooden probe against the impeller (the blades that grind up the garbage) and rock it back and forth to free it. When the impeller moves freely, wait 15 minutes for the motor to cool, turn on the power, and push the reset button. Some disposal models come with a large L-shaped hex wrench. If you have such a model, turn off the power, insert the hex wrench into the opening in the center of the disposal’s bottom, and turn the wrench back and forth until the impeller is freed. Again, wait until the motor has cooled, press the reset button, and then try operating the disposal.

Article / Updated 09-29-2021

If neither cleaning the trap nor plunging clears a plumbing clog, your final weapon is a drain auger (also known as a snake). This tool, a coiled steel wire usually about 1/4-inch thick with a handle on one end, works the opposite way that a plunger does: You push the snake into the clog and crank it to drive the snake farther into the obstruction. While parts of the clog break up and flush through the drain, the snake helps you gain access to the clog so that you can pull it out. Some snakes can fit as an attachment on an electric drill, giving it more power to force it through the clog. Snakes are especially handy because they're long enough to reach clogs that are deep within a drainpipe. How to prevent drain clogs Your best defense against clogs is to avoid them in the first place. The following are some common-sense practices to use: Use a sink strainer: A clogged kitchen sink is usually the result of garbage or foreign objects entering the drain. Use a sink strainer to prevent garbage and small items from entering the drainpipe. Take care of your garbage disposal: When using a garbage disposal, run cold water at full volume while the machine is chopping up the garbage; leave the water running for a full minute after you shut off the disposer. This precaution flushes the garbage completely out of the small-diameter sink drainpipe and into the larger main drainpipe, where it's less likely to cause a clog. Don't dump materials down your drain: Do-it-yourselfers often flush building materials down the drain. The most common offender is plaster or wallboard compound, which seems innocent enough going down but can harden in the drainpipes and clog them. To prevent these clogs, never dispose of leftover building materials in sink drains. Steps for using a drain auger You can rent a manually operated or an electrical drain auger for a few bucks at a rental center. The equipment is easy to use, but ask the dealer for operating instructions. The basic process is as follows: Push the end of the snake into the drain opening and turn the handle on the drum that contains the coiled-up snake. The auger begins its journey down the drain. Keep pushing more of the snake into the drain until you feel resistance. You may have to apply pressure when cranking the handle to get it to bend around the tight curve in the trap under the sink. After turning the curve, the snake usually slides through easily until you hit the clog. Rotate the snake against the blockage until you feel it feed freely into the pipe. The rotating action enables the tip of the snake to attach to the clog and spin it away or chop it up. If the clog is a solid object, the auger head entangles the object. If you don't feel the auger breaking through and twisting getting easier, pull the auger out of the drain — you'll likely pull the clog out with it. Run water full force for a few minutes to be sure that the drain is unclogged. Sometimes, the clog flushes down the drain; at other times, the clog comes out attached to the snake.

Article / Updated 04-27-2017

If you have to make plumbing repairs around your home, it helps to understand your drain-waste-vent system (DWV). The fat pipes in your house make up the DWV, carrying wastewater to a city sewer line or your private sewer treatment facility (called a septic tank and field). The drainpipes collect the water from sinks, showers, tubs, and appliances. The waste pipes remove water and material from the toilet. The vent pipes remove or exhaust sewer gases and allow air to enter the system so that the wastewater flows freely. The drainpipes are made of cast iron, galvanized pipe, copper, or plastic. Local building codes that regulate the materials used in the DWV system have changed over the years, so most older homes have a combination of materials. A typical bathroom sink is a good example of how all these components work together. You probably haven’t spent much time observing the pipes beneath your vanity, but take a look and this is what you’ll see: This diagram of a typical DWV system is called a plumbing tree. Water runs down the sink drain into a p-trap (so called because it’s shaped like the letter), which fills up with water to prevent sewer gases and odors from getting into the house through the pipe. This water gets refreshed whenever more water runs through it. A drainpipe attached to the p-trap goes into an opening in the wall. Behind the wall (where you can’t see), a vent line and drainpipe lead to a soil stack, which is the control center of the wastewater system. Drain pipes take the wastewater to the soil stack; through the stack, sewer gases are carried up to the roof through vent lines. All the faucets and water appliances in a house use this same system of drains, pipes, and vents. All the waste lines have a cleanout, which is a Y-shaped fitting that’s accessible so that you can clean out any serious obstructions within the system.

Video / Updated 03-28-2016

Repairing a leaky faucet usually requires replacing a washer. Conserving water and avoiding a professional plumber in one DIY home-improvement project? This video shows you how to fix a leaky faucet by replacing the washer.

Video / Updated 03-28-2016

Water on the floor next to the toilet bowl usually indicates a damaged gasket seal. This DIY step-by-step video shows you how to shut off the water; drain the toilet; and move the toilet in order to replace the seal and fix the leak. It's easier than you think!

Step by Step / Updated 03-27-2016

Sweating a copper water line is relatively easy. Knowing how to sweat copper pipe allows a do-it-yourselfer to install pipe yourself. A properly sweated joint will last for years (in many cases decades). Sweating copper pipe isn’t difficult, but it takes practice. Mastering a perfectly sweated copper joint takes a bit of practice. Be patient! Your first couple of attempts may not look beautiful, but soon you’ll be sweating copper that not only doesn’t leak but also looks good.

Step by Step / Updated 03-27-2016

Knowing how to fix a leaky stem faucet saves money, and the process is easy. A leaky stem faucet usually means that the packing is worn out or needs tightening. The packing (which looks like string) keeps water from leaking out around the stem. These faucets have no aerators and are found mostly in laundry rooms and outdoor sinks.

Step by Step / Updated 03-27-2016

Cleaning clogged faucet aerators and sink sprayers help faucets function like new. Mineral deposits and sediment slow the water flow, so clean your faucet aerators or sink sprayers to get a full flow. The aerator screws onto the end of the faucet spout and typically has two screens inside that the water flows through. To clean your faucet aerator, you'll need groove-joint pliers, masking tape, paper clip, old toothbrush or small wire brush, and a small bowl. You'll also need some white vinegar or lime-dissolving solution.

Step by Step / Updated 03-27-2016

Ceramic disk faucets are durable, but need repairing if they develop leaks or water flow problems. To fix a ceramic disk faucet, you can get new seals and replacement parts. Disassemble the faucet and take the old parts with you when you go shopping for replacement parts so you can get exactly what you need. Equipment needed: Allen wrench, screwdriver, groove-joint pliers, an old toothbrush, and a replacement cartridge, if needed.