Electrical Articles
Got an electrical problem? Check out our handy articles and safe wiring tips before calling an electrician.
Articles From Electrical
Filter Results
Article / Updated 10-11-2022
Don't wait hours for the next available electrician — changing out a light switch is fairly easy. Most modern switches have screw terminals on each side with holes in the back to accept the end of the wire. How to wire a light switch Loosen the screws on the side of the device with a standard screwdriver (turning counterclockwise). You may find getting the wires out of the back of the device tricky. To remove these wires, insert the blade of a small screwdriver into the slot under the hole into which the wire is inserted and push in as you pull the wire loose. Pushing the blade of the screwdriver into the slot releases the grip on the inserted wire. Here are some descriptions of each wire and where they go: The white (neutral) wire connects to the silver screw, or you place it in the back wire hole on the same side of the device as the silver screw. The black (hot) wire goes to the brass screw or into the hole in the back of the device on the same side as the brass screw. This wire is sometimes red. The green or bare copper (ground) wire, if the device has one, attaches to the green screw terminal on the switch or to the electrical box. Although plug-in connections may be more convenient, they are less reliable than those with screw terminals, so don't use them! Replacing single-pole light switches If the switch has On and Off embossed on its body and it's the only switch that controls lights or receptacles, it's a single-pole switch. To replace this kind of switch, follow these steps: Turn off the power to the switch at the main circuit breaker or fuse panel. Unscrew and remove the switch plate; then use a voltage tester to make sure that the circuit is dead. Unscrew the switch from the electrical box and pull it out with the wires still attached. Two or three wires will be attached to the switch: an incoming hot wire, which is black; a return wire, which carries the load to the fixture and may be black, red, or any other color except green; and sometimes a grounding wire, which is green or bare copper. There may be other wires in the box, but you are only dealing with the ones connected directly to the switch. You may find a white wire that has black tape on it connected to the switch. This tape indicates that the white wire is being used as a black or colored wire in the switch leg, so it's not neutral. Compare your new switch with the one you're replacing to find the corresponding locations for the electrical screw connectors. Because the power is off, you can match up the connectors the easy way: Instead of disconnecting all the wires at once and possibly getting confused, unscrew and connect one wire at a time. Attach the first wire you unscrew to the same-colored screw on the new switch as it was on the old; do the same with the second. To connect a wire to a terminal, strip off about 1/2 inch of insulation, using a wire stripper, and twist the end into a clockwise loop with long-nose pliers. The loop must wrap at least two-thirds but no more than three-quarters of the way around the terminal screw. Hook the wire clockwise around the screw so when you tighten the screw with a screwdriver, the clockwise force of the tightening screw makes the loop wrap tighter around the screw. Gently push the new, wired switch back into the electrical box and screw it in place. Screw on the switch plate and turn on the power. Replacing three-way light switches A three-way switch is a handy convenience to control a light from two locations, such as at the top and bottom of a staircase. If the words On and Off aren't embossed on the switch and it's one of two switches that control a single light or receptacle, you have a three-way switch. Seems like it should be called a two-way switch, right? The name refers to the fact that these switches have three terminal screws. To replace a three-way switch, follow these steps: Turn off the power to the switch at the circuit or fuse panel. Unscrew and remove the switch plate; then use a voltage tester to make sure that the circuit is dead. Unscrew the switch from the electrical box and pull it out with the wires still attached. A three-way switch has at least three wires, and possibly four, depending on whether it has a ground wire. Two wires attach to brass screw terminals, which are usually at the top of the switch, and an additional wire attaches to a dark-colored (not green) screw terminal, which is usually at the bottom of the switch. Mark this third wire with a piece of tape and mark the wire on the same side of the switch directly above it with a piece of different-colored tape. The new switch may have the electrical screw connectors in slightly different locations than the switch you're replacing. Most switches have a pair of terminals on opposite sides of the switch top and a single terminal at the bottom. Remove the wires from the switch. Attach the tagged wires to the corresponding terminals of the new switch. Alternatively, you may choose to transfer one wire at a time from the old switch to the new switch. If the existing switch has a green ground wire, attach the wire to the green screw terminal on the new switch or to the electrical box. Push the new, wired switch back into the electrical box and screw it in place. Screw on the switch plate and turn on the power. Replacing four-way light switches If the switch doesn't have the words On and Off embossed on its body and it's the center switch of three switches that control a single light or receptacle, it's a four-way switch. To replace a four-way switch, follow these steps: Turn off the power to the switch at the circuit panel or fuse box. Unscrew and remove the switch plate; then use a voltage tester to make sure that the circuit is dead. Unscrew the switch from the electrical box and pull it out with the wires still attached. This switch has at least four screw terminals. It may also have a fifth, ground terminal (green). Mark the location of the four wires with tape so that you can replace them on the new switch; then remove the wires from the switch. Alternatively, you may choose to transfer one wire at a time from the old switch to the new switch. Attach the wires to the corresponding terminals of the new switch. If the existing switch has a green ground wire, attach it to the green terminal on the new switch or to the electrical box. Push the new, wired switch back into the electrical box and screw it in place. Screw on the switch plate and turn on the power. Replacing light switches with a dimmer Replacing a standard single-pole or three-way switch with a dimmer switch is no different than replacing a standard switch. Remember: Dimmer switches don't work on most fluorescent fixtures, and low-voltage lighting requires special low-voltage dimmers. Check the rating of the dimmer switch you purchase. Most dimmer switches can handle 600 watts of power. Count the number of light bulbs that the switch controls and add up the maximum wattage bulb allowed for the fixture. For example, if the switch controls a light fixture that accommodates up to two 100-watt bulbs (200 watts total) a 600-watt dimmer will have no problem, but a string of seven recessed lights could overload the dimmer. To replace a standard switch with a dimmer switch, follow these steps: Turn off the power to the switch at the circuit or fuse panel. Unscrew and remove the switch plate; then use a voltage tester to make sure that the circuit is dead. Unscrew the switch from the electrical box and pull it out with the wires still attached. Remove the wires from the old switch. Dimmer switches are usually connected to the house wiring by short lengths of wire coming out of the switch body rather than by screw terminals. Use the connectors (wire nuts) supplied with the fixture to attach the black wires coming out of the dimmer switch to the colored wires that were attached to the terminals on the old switch. First, twist the wires together, and then screw on the wire nut. Push the new switch back into the electrical box and screw it in place. The body of a dimmer is larger than the switch being replaced. Don't just force it in. Often, you need to reposition or better organize the wires first to make room for it. Screw on the switch plate. Push the control knob, if there is one, onto the shaft protruding from the switch. Turn on the power.
View ArticleStep by Step / Updated 04-14-2017
Knowing how to reset a circuit breaker will make you seem awesome to the clueless. Resetting a tripped circuit breaker is a simple matter of flipping the circuit switch back into the On position. Newer homes have circuit breakers, which simply switch off (trip) when they become overloaded. The circuit breaker shuts off power to the room without shutting off power to the whole house. Before you get started, get a flashlight! Things will be a lot easier with a flashlight.
View Step by StepArticle / Updated 04-14-2017
If an outlet (commonly called a receptacle) no longer holds a plug snugly, it should be replaced. The procedure for replacing a duplex (two-outlet) wall receptacle is similar to that of replacing a switch. The only difference is that, depending on where the receptacle is located in the wiring scheme of your house, it may have more wires attached to it than you find attached to a light switch. Credit: ©iStockphoto.com/Lighthaunter Look closely at the terminal screws of the new duplex receptacle. On each side of the receptacle is a pair of terminal screws. The upper screw is connected to the upper outlet, and the lower screw services the lower outlet. A thin, metal break-off tab connects these screws. This tab enables you to attach a single wire to either screw and feed electricity to both outlets of the receptacle. If the tab is broken off, you can connect the upper and lower outlets to separate wires and control them independently. If the receptacle is wired to the end of a series of receptacles, it usually has only two wires, and possibly a third ground wire. If it isn't the last receptacle, two additional wires may be connected to it in order to carry current to the next receptacle. Just rewire the new receptacle the same way the old one was wired. You may also wire the receptacle so that a switch controls the upper outlet and the lower outlet is on, or hot, all the time. In this case, you need to remove the break-off tab connecting the two sets of like-colored terminals on each side of the receptacle. Otherwise, the tab remains intact, and you can see a metal bridge connecting the terminals. The important point to keep in mind is that hot (black or colored) wires attach to brass screws and neutral (white) wires attach to silver screws. If the unit is back-wired, the colored wires are located in the holes behind the brass screws and the white wires in the holes behind the silver screws. If you attach a white wire to a brass screw or a colored wire to a silver screw, you may see fireworks. To replace a standard duplex receptacle, follow these steps: Turn off the power to the receptacle from the main fuse or circuit panel. Unscrew and remove the cover plate; then use a voltage tester to make sure that the circuit is dead. Unscrew the receptacle from the electrical box and pull it out with the wires still attached. Note where the white and black wires are attached to the old receptacle. Remove the wires. Carefully inspect the old receptacle to see if the break-off tab connecting the two sets of terminals on each side of the receptacle is broken off. If it is, remove the corresponding tabs from the new receptacle. To break off the tab, grip it with long-nose pliers and bend it back and forth until it breaks off. Attach the wires to the terminals of the new receptacle. If the wiring has a green ground wire, attach it to the green terminal on the receptacle or to the electrical box. Push the new receptacle back into the electrical box and screw it in place. Screw on the cover plate and then turn on the power.
View ArticleStep by Step / Updated 03-27-2017
Installing track lighting allows you to direct lighting exactly where you want it. If you know how to install track lighting, you have the flexibility of attaching individual lights anywhere along a long line that can run down a wall or ceiling. The flexibility of track lighting makes it a good choice for highlighting a specific area, like a wall of artwork or down a long hallway. Track lighting is generally powered by a single ceiling box. The end of the track is attached to a plate that screws to the ceiling box. The wiring scheme is exactly the same as for any fixture. You connect like-colored wires together, and the green or bare ground wire attaches to the grounding terminal on the track or cover plate. Because track systems vary, become familiar with the assembly before you begin following the instructions to install it. Start by turn offing the power from the fuse or circuit panel. You may find several pairs of wires in the ceiling box. Some of these wires may be controlled by different circuits than the fixture you’re working on. Be safe: Use a circuit tester or turn off the power to the whole house to be sure that all wires in the box are dead.
View Step by StepVideo / Updated 03-28-2016
Installing a dimmer switch in a standard outlet is a DIY home-improvement project. Safely wire a dimmer switch with help from this video tutorial, which also takes some of the mystery out of electrical wiring.
Watch VideoVideo / Updated 03-28-2016
Audio Transcript Ceiling fixtures come in lots of different shapes and there are many different ways to attach them. But no matter how a fixture is hung, the wiring is simple. To replace a ceiling fixture, the first thing you do is turn off the power. Next remove the light bulb cover and bulbs from the fixture. You might want to get someone to help before you continue, because once you unscrew the screws or nuts, holding the fixture to the ceiling, you'll need both hands to work on the wires. Lower the fixture base and then use a circuit tester to be sure all wires in the box are dead. The circuit tester should read zero. Next remove the electrical tape or wire nuts from the black or hot wire, the white or neutral wire and if there is one, the green or ground wire. Attach the wires from the new fixture with wire nuts to the corresponding wires in the electrical box. Now, raise and position the new base plate so that you can screw the new holes through it and attach it to the mounting strap. To finish, screw in new light bulbs and turn on the power.
Watch VideoStep by Step / Updated 03-27-2016
Most homeowners will need to replace a ceiling fixture at some point. Knowing how to properly replace a ceiling fixture can save on electrician’s fees. Residential ceiling fixtures come in many different shapes, and there are many ways to attach them to the ceiling. Ceiling fixtures hang by two screws that attach the fixture base to the outlet box or to a mounting strap in the outlet box. No matter how you suspend a fixture from the ceiling, the wiring is simple. Other wires may pass through the box, but you have to deal with only three wires: a colored wire (usually black), a white wire, and a green ground wire. These three wires are joined together with twist-on wire connectors.
View Step by StepStep by Step / Updated 03-27-2016
A ceiling fan is a stylish and functional addition to any room. If you are planning to install a ceiling fan in a room that already has a ceiling outlet, wiring a ceiling fan is the same as wiring any ceiling fixture. If the room doesn't have an overhead box, hire an electrician to install the box and fish the wires through the walls and across the ceiling. Save the fun of installing the actual fan for yourself. If you can access the ceiling on which you want to attach the fan from the attic or from an overhead area, you have several choices in the type of box you install. If you can't get to the area above the box, you have to use an adjustable hanger bar designed for installation through the hole left by the existing ceiling box. To replace a ceiling fixture, follow these steps:
View Step by StepArticle / Updated 03-26-2016
Residential ceiling fixtures come in many different shapes, and people have devised many ways to attach them to the ceiling. Most of the time, a central threaded hollow rod holds a chandelier in place. Ceiling fixtures hang by two screws that attach the fixture base to the outlet box or to a mounting strap in the outlet box. No matter how you suspend a fixture from the ceiling, the wiring is simple. Other wires may pass through the box, but you have to deal with only three wires: a colored wire (usually black), a white wire, and a green ground wire. These three wires are joined together with twist-on wire connectors. Get someone to help you replace a ceiling fixture. After you loosen the screws that hold the existing fixture to the ceiling box, you have your hands full holding the fixture and trying to work on the wires. You may be able to pull off this juggling act with a light fixture, but if you're messing with a chandelier, you need another pair of hands to help. To replace a ceiling light fixture, follow these steps: Turn off the power. You may find several pairs of wires in the ceiling box. Some of these wires may be wired to different circuits than the fixture you're working on. Be safe: Use a circuit tester or turn off the power to the whole house to ensure that all the wires in the box are dead. Remove the light bulb cover and bulbs from the fixture. Unscrew the screws or nuts holding the fixture base to the ceiling box. Lower the fixture base and remove the electrical tape or wire nuts from the black (hot) wire, white (neutral) wire, and, if present, green (ground) wire. Attach the wires from the new fixture with wire nuts to the corresponding wires in the electrical box. Raise and position the new base plate so that you can screw the new bolts through it to attach it to the mounting strap. Screw in new light bulbs, install the cover, and turn on the power.
View ArticleArticle / Updated 03-26-2016
If you have a lamp with a loose socket that causes the lamp to flicker, to be difficult to turn on, or to just flat out refuse to light, you can replace the socket and give the lamp a new life. You can replace a socket so easily that, even if it's not your favorite lamp, you may want to fix it and give it to someone else, like your nosy neighbor. You can purchase replacement lamp parts at any hardware store or home center. These parts are standard; you can buy lamp cord by the foot, and you can use just about any type of plug to replace the one on your old lamp. You can find several varieties of lamp socket switches. You control some by pushing a short shaft on the side of the switch, others by turning a knob, and still others with a pull chain. You also need to consider whether your present lamp has a three-way bulb in it. If you could turn the lamp on to several degrees of brightness, be sure to purchase a socket switch that's designed to control a three-way bulb. You can probably get the right replacement parts most easily by taking the lamp apart (according to the following directions) and bringing the bad parts to the store so that you can find matching replacements. To replace a lamp socket, follow these steps: Unplug the lamp. Remove the shade, bulb, and harp (the wired shape that holds the shade). Snap off the socket shell from the socket shell cap. Most sockets have the word Press stamped in two places on the shell. Squeeze the shell at those points and pull up to remove it. If the shell doesn't budge, push the end of a screwdriver between the base of the socket and the side of the shell and then pull the shell up and off the socket base. Pull the socket switch up out of the shell base to expose enough of the switch to reveal the two wires attached to it. If the screws are loose, tighten them and reassemble the lamp. Loose screws may have been the lamp's only problem. If the lamp works after you tighten up the screws, great! If not, take it apart again and proceed with the following steps. Unscrew the wires. A lamp switch has a brass screw to which the hot (black) wire is attached and a silver screw to which the neutral (white) wire is attached. Lamp cords, however, don't have colored wires in them. So, before you remove the wires from the old switch, note which color screw each wire is connected to. Loosen the socket cap set screw and then unscrew and discard it along with the old socket shell and socket. Screw the wire leads to the new socket. Place the new socket shell over the socket and push the cover down until it snaps into the new socket shell cap. Replace the harp, light bulb, and shade.
View Article