Containers Articles

Article / Updated 03-29-2022

If you want to be green and grow your own food but have only a small space, you can still garden in containers. Container gardening offers the advantages of fewer insects and weeds to deal with and can be placed right outside your door or on your kitchen counter, so it’s very handy. Container gardens require frequent care: Regular watering and fertilizing are very important because the plants don’t get that stuff directly from the earth. Keep growing in a confined space simple by following these steps: Buy clay or terra-cotta pots, which are the most naturally made pots on the market. If your pots are locally made, they’re even greener. Make sure that they’re deep enough to allow adequate root growth (about 20 to 25 cm) and that they have holes in the bottom for water drainage. (Water that sits in the pot can create root rot, which is bad news for your plant.) The planting instructions on seed packets or plant labels indicate how deep to plant and how large it’s likely to grow. Buy organically grown seeds or small plants, which are available from garden centers, nurseries, natural food stores, many hardware stores, and mail-order growers. Plants with descriptions such as bush, compact, space saver, or patio indicate that they’re specifically designed to grow in smaller spaces. Tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants grow particularly well in containers, as do leafy greens like lettuce and spinach, herbs, and some fruits. Also look for plants designed to grow upward, such as pole or runner beans, or that can be trained to grow up trellises, like cucumbers. Plant the seeds or plants in prepackaged or homemade organic potting mix, which contains natural ingredients. Line the bottom of the pot with broken pieces of terra cotta or small stones to encourage drainage while preventing the dirt from escaping through the drainage hole in the bottom of the pot. Then simply fill the pot with the potting mix and plant the seeds or plants at the depth recommended on the seed or plant packaging. Place the pots in the best position to make the most of sunlight and rain. If your containers are inside, place them near windows for sunlight, but obviously you can’t worry about rainfall. Keep your plants healthy As your tiny garden grows, keep it growing greenly: Water as recommended. In general, when the soil begins drying out, add more water, but avoid soaking the seed or plant. Too much water can be as damaging as too little. Feed your plants organic fertilizer that contains rock minerals and animal manure produced from sustainable farming methods. You also can use the liquid from the bottom of a worm farm. Use organically made insecticides, such as those made from a mix of garlic, chilies, and dried pyrethrum (a plant of the daisy family).

Article / Updated 06-01-2017

Terrariums are a great way to add some greenery to your home. In addition, they can have the benefit of creating an oxygen-rich environment and a charming touch to your indoor area. Regardless of your space, a terrarium can be a nice way to give your home a little splash of green. Before you can get your hands dirty, you need to gather your materials. For this project, you will need: A clear glass container Small stones or rocks Your terrarium plants of choice Potting charcoal Potting soil Any additional fun accessories you want to include in your terrarium Just follow these simple steps to make your own stylish terrarium: Clean your glass container.You can use any clear glass container. If you are on a budget, you can use old vases or glasses that can be purchased secondhand. Feel free to get creative to add your own personal touch to the mix. Also, some plants prefer humidity and will flourish in a closed environment. Others grow more easily with an open top. See below for tips on choosing the right terrarium plant. After drying thoroughly, line the bottom of the terrarium with your rocks or stones.This acts as drainage for your terrarium. Next, add a thin layer of potting charcoal.The purpose of the charcoal is to keep the soil fresh in this largely enclosed environment. Add a thick layer of soil, paying close attention to leave holes for your plants.At this point, about one-third of your container should be filled. Your soil should be the thickest layer. Add your plants to your terrarium.Generally, it’s easiest to add the largest first and work your way to the smallest so that you are able to manage the space in your tiny garden. Cover the roots with soil and lightly pack down. Add any decorative elements you’d like. Congratulations! You have your own terrarium. How to choose plants for your terrarium Terrariums are a great way to integrate green into your home. But, some plants fare better than others in this environment. Which types of plant should you choose for your terrarium? Here are some tips: Choose a plant that fits into your terrarium. You want the leaves to have room and not be touching the container. Slow-growing plants are usually desirable for terrariums. This keeps you from having to perform constant upkeep. Consider plants that can handle humidity. The enclosed nature of a terrarium usually means that there will be humidity. However, you can combat this by choosing your container wisely and considering a closed or open container when researching your plant options. Succulents and cacti are good choices since these plants thrive in harsh, dry environments. Check here for tips on growing and caring for succulents. Typically, hardy plants are a good option given that terrariums may receive little light and water. Check out Better Homes and Gardens for their selection of top terrarium plants. Maintenance tips for your terrarium Most terrarium plants require little maintenance. For most terrarium owners, this is ideal. Bringing a hint of green into your home doesn’t have to be difficult. Prune away dead or rotting leaves with snips. Trim leaves when they begin to encroach on other plants or begin to touch the inside of the terrarium. Rotate or turn your terrarium occasionally to even the sunlight exposure. Examine your plants for any mold or fungus. Remove if necessary. Clean the glass so sunlight isn’t inhibited from reaching plants. Use a damp paper towel without chemicals or cleaning solutions. Water when soil near the glass appears to be dry. You want a consistently moist soil. The need for water will vary depending on your choice of terrarium plants. Although notorious for easy maintenance, terrariums can die if not properly cared for. Check out these common terrarium mistakes to avoid facing a terrarium failure.

Article / Updated 05-04-2017

Succulents are plants that store water. Derived from the Latin word sucus, which means juice or sap, these plants are often considered to be drought-resistant. This diverse group of plants is popular for the home gardener and generally don’t require a large amount of maintenance. Because of their low-maintenance nature, succulents are popular as houseplants in all areas of the United States. Succulents are usually characterized by thick, rubbery, or “fleshy” parts. However, there are many options and these plants come in an array of shapes, sizes, textures, and colors. Succulents are often noted for their exotic or unusual appearance. Characteristics of succulents Succulents are typically adorned with thick leaves, stems, or roots. The thicker parts of the plant are used to store water. These plants are common in geographic locations that experience high temperatures with little rainfall. They can store water to survive long periods with little or no moisture. Native to areas like deserts or steppes, these plants will usually appear swollen when preserving water. Native to arid areas, succulents cannot survive in freezing temperatures. While some may last through a brief spell, these plants will thrive in warmer temperatures. They are often characterized by spiky, needle-shaped or rosette-shaped leaves. Succulents are also unusual because they propagate easily. On occasion, a new plant will even grow from a piece of fallen leaf. As water hoarders, these plants will actually die if left in too much water. Common succulents The variety of succulents is a true testament to the diversity of the plant world. From exotic to commonplace, these plants can be basic or robust. Cacti are one of the most recognizable succulents. However, botanists often refer to cacti as a separate variety. Better Homes and Gardens recommends these ten succulents for in-home gardeners: Burro’s Tail Aloe plants Crown of Thorns Hens-and-Chicks Jade Plant Panda Plant Pincushion Cactus Ponytail Palm Snake Plant Other common succulent plants include: Agave Cotyledon Crassula Dudlya Echeveria Euphorbia lacteal Graptopetalum Haworthia Huernia Kalanchoe Sedum Sempervivum Senecio Tree-like Euphorbia This list barely scratches the surface. Check succulent-plant.com for a more comprehensive list. Why succulents are easy to grow In recent years, succulents have grown in popularity as houseplants and in gardens. These plants are ideal for gardeners who don’t have an immense knowledge of sophisticated gardening practices. Here are some reasons these unusual plants are easy to care for: As part of their exotic nature, these plants are striking and aesthetically pleasing. Succulents require little watering or pruning. They are easy to transport from their native areas because of their low-maintenance nature. Easy to contain, these plants can be placed in small pots and placed almost anywhere. Most pests are not attracted to succulents. Succulents can be planted alone or among other plants. Many types of succulents are inexpensive. Some, like aloe, even have alternative or medicinal uses. Succulents make great house plants or an addition to your garden and do not require a large amount of care. Check out our tips for growing and caring for succulents.

Article / Updated 03-27-2017

Divide and repot perennials to alleviate crowded roots. Because perennials tend to grow larger — in some cases much larger — than annuals, you may find your plants outgrowing their pots. (A sure sign is roots that fill all available soil space or bulge out at the top. An even surer sign: roots bursting the sides of the container.) At times like these, you need to make some choices. You can repot them into larger containers, you can root-prune them and replant them in the same container, or you can divide them. Some perennials, like coral bells and hostas, spread by underground roots. In pots, they can eventually grow so crowded that they no longer look good or grow well. When your plants enlarge to this size, think about dividing the clump. The ideal time to divide a plant depends on the type of plant and your locale. In general, in regions with mild to moderate winters you can divide plants in early spring or fall. In regions with very cold winters, most plants are best divided in early spring. In regions with very hot summers, divide plants in fall. Exceptions to these guidelines exist, so if you’re unsure, do some research before digging in. To divide a perennial: Ease the plant from the pot. Wash off as much soil as possible — you need to be able to see the roots. Using a trowel, garden knife, or whatever tool seems to work for you, gently tease apart the root mass into two or more clumps. These clumps are called divisions. Be sure that each division has a healthy set of roots to support it. Repot each clump into a new pot using the bare-root potting procedure. You can also plant some or all the clumps in the ground if you have the space and the right conditions. Or, share or swap divisions with your friends and neighbors. The roots of some plants are such a tangled mass that it’s impossible to tease them apart. In these cases, use a sharp knife or, for large plants, a sharpened spade to slice the plant in half, from top to bottom, so that the two remaining sections contain both top growth (or where the top growth was if the plant is dormant) and roots. Replant as you would a regular potted plant.

Cheat Sheet / Updated 03-27-2016

You can create beautiful container gardens with a little planning and some ongoing attention. It all starts with picking the right plants and arranging them in an attractive container. Then, after you’ve got things growing, you’ll want to keep the plants pest-free to keep them looking their best.

Step by Step / Updated 03-27-2016

Planting just one variety of bulbs per pot ensures that all the bulbs in the pot will bloom at the same time. Mixing varieties in a container, on the other hand, results in flowers coming at different times, which has much less impact. If you want different flower colors and bloom times, grow different varieties in separate containers. These steps describe the typical way to plant bulbs. Expect the results to be containers dense with flowers:

Step by Step / Updated 03-27-2016

Strawberry pots, also called strawberry jars or pocket planters, have holes cut into the sides as well as an open top. The pots come in a range of sizes, but most have between 8 and 15 pockets sized for small plants, including herbs and flowers. Alternating themes or repeating patterns work well if you don’t want a different plant in each slot.

Step by Step / Updated 03-27-2016

Planting wire baskets isn't as easy as planting plastic hanging baskets. But whichever type of basket you are planting, begin by choosing the right type of soil. A successful soil mix for hanging baskets must be lightweight and able to retain moisture.

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

Ready for a little repotting? It's not that difficult even if it's your first try at repotting a plant, and if you're an old hand at it, you may discover some helpful new techniques. Before you remove a plant from its pot, always make sure that you have enough potting mix on hand, and then follow these steps: 1. A day or two before you plan to repot, give your plants a thorough watering because they're easier to repot when the growing mix is moist. 2. Pour some potting mix into a bucket or bowl and add an equivalent amount of warm water, then blend thoroughly. Most soilless potting mixes are somewhat water repellent when dry, so you need to stir them. Aim for a consistency a little drier than muffin batter. If the mix is too dry, add more water; too liquid, add a bit more medium.Adding a drop or two of liquid soap to the water also helps the mix to absorb moisture more readily. You can seal any leftover mix in a plastic bag or container and save it for your next potting session. 3. To remove the plant from its old pot, slip your hand over the top of the pot, holding the plant's stem between your fingers, and turn the pot upside down, as shown in Figure 1. Figure 1: The correct technique for removing a plant from its pot. 4. Tap the rim of the pot firmly against a hard surface, such as a table, and then gently pull the pot upwards to remove the plant (again, see Figure 1). If the plant refuses to budge, tap the pot against the hard surface a few more times and try again. It may take two pairs of hands (one pair pulling on the pot while the other pair holds the plant) to remove big plants from large pots. You also may have to run a knife blade around the inside of the pot's rim to remove the plant or first cut away roots extending from the drainage holes. If that doesn't work, you may actually have to break the pot to remove the plant. 5. Examine the root ball. If the root ball is less healthy or if the plant has been in the same pot for more than 18 months, you must do some cleaning up before repotting it. If some of the roots appear dead, damaged, or rotten (or circle the inside of the pot, indicating probable underpotting), you need to prune them off. 6. If thick roots totally encircle the plant, cut away a 1/2- to 1-inch (2- to 3-centimeter) slice of roots and soil with a sharp knife — not only all around the pot, but also from the bottom (see Figure 2). Figure 2: If the root ball is entirely circled by thick roots, slice a portion of roots and soil from the sides and bottom. Don't cut away healthy roots of plants that don't like being repotted, such as the clivia. If you intend to repot the plant into a pot of the same size or smaller, prune back even more harshly. You can remove up to one-third of the old roots (or one-third of the root ball) without harming the plant. 7. Remove about one-third of the old potting mix from the root ball, loosening it gently with your fingers, a stake, a pencil, or a chopstick inserted straight down into the roots. It's no loss — the soil is most likely contaminated with mineral salts. 8. Pour in a layer of the premoistened potting mix made in Step 2. Use just enough so that the top of the roots are at the same level as the pot's rim projection. 9. Set the plant in the pot, turning it to make sure it is completely centered, and begin adding soil. Use your fingers or a chopstick to work the potting mix down among the roots. Press just hard enough to eliminate any large air pockets without compressing the soil. 10. Add the potting medium until the roots are well covered, and then even out the mix with your fingers or a spoon. 11. Water well, let drain, and you're done! Try to keep any newly repotted plant out of full sunlight for a week or so, and then reintroduce it to its permanent home. You can begin fertilizing again in about one month. One important note before you actually repot the plant: Don't waste the already limited space in an average pot with a layer of useless pot shards. Use a good potting mix from top to bottom. Studies show that so-called drainage layers don't actually help drainage at all. On the contrary, pots actually drain better when the potting mix is evenly packed in the pot.

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

The secret to fertilizing your houseplants lies in moderation. Rule Number One: Less is more The number-one rule for fertilizing plants bears repeating: When it comes to fertilizing your plants, less is more. Go ahead and fertilize your plants, but never give them as much fertilizer as the manufacturer's label suggests. Fertilizer companies want to encourage you to use as much fertilizer as possible (you use it up quicker, you buy more often). The dosage on the label usually represents the largest amount of the fertilizer that a healthy plant growing under ideal conditions can tolerate without feeling ill effects. Under less than ideal growing conditions (like those in the average house or apartment), plants won't absorb large amounts of fertilizer. If a plant lacks light and humidity, it doesn't synthesize the fertilizer as quickly because it isn't operating at peak performance. Therefore, fertilizer builds up in the potting mix unused. Unless you're certain that you are providing your plants with absolutely perfect growing conditions, never apply more than half the recommended dose of fertilizer. Rule Number Two: Never fertilize a weak plant A plant that's in bad shape, such as one suffering from insects or disease, recovering from a bad shock (such as a spill to the floor), or struggling with root damage, simply can't utilize fertilizer properly. Wait until you see healthy new leaves appear or note other obvious signs of recovery before you fertilize the plant again. Rule Number Three: Some plants don't live by the rules Some plants do require more fertilizer than others. Flowering plants and plants grown for fruit require more light, more water, and more humidity than other plants. If you boost the amount of growing essentials (and you have to if you want them to perform), it stands to reason that they require more fertilizer as well. Just don't go overboard: It's easier to add a little more fertilizer if necessary than to remove excess fertilizer from a plant that you've pretty much poisoned by overfertilizing. So, when's the best time to fertilize? Wait for a month or so before fertilizing newly purchased or freshly repotted plants. Not only does their mix usually already contain fertilizer, but also the last thing they need as they acclimate to their new pot or home is an extra dose of fertilizer. (Remember: Never fertilize a weak plant. Plants adapting to a new environment qualify as weakened.) Fertilize plants only during their active growth phases. Most plants grow most strongly from spring through summer and need the most fertilizer at that time. Begin reducing the fertilization rate in the autumn (an excellent time to apply a bit of tomato fertilizer, which is rich in potassium, to help the plant through the dark days of winter). You may want to apply fertilizer at half the recommended rate in spring and summer and then cut back to a quarter of the rate in autumn. Most plants grow slowly, if at all, in winter. Give them either no fertilizer during this time of year, or only a weak dosage. Never fertilize a plant that is completely dormant.