Car Repair & Maintenance Articles

Article / Updated 08-11-2022

Not every vehicle has a PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) valve. If yours has one, and your engine has been idling roughly or a malfunction indicator light goes on, check the PCV valve to make sure it isn’t clogged with sludge from the contaminants in the exhaust fumes or stuck in the wide-open position. The PCV valve is a vital part of the emissions control system on most vehicles. The PCV valve is usually plugged into a rubber grommet in the valve cover, as shown here: It may be located on or near the intake manifold, as shown here. A hose leading to the PCV valve is often kept in place by a clamp. Sometimes there’s a little L-shaped housing on the end of the hose that covers the end of the valve. Car manufacturers suggest that PCV valves be cleaned or replaced somewhere between 20,000 to 50,000 miles of driving. Consult your owner’s manual to see where the PCV valve is located on your vehicle and what the recommended service intervals are. The valve is usually replaced during scheduled tune-ups, but depending on its type and location, you may be able to check, clean, and replace it yourself. There are different ways to check whether your PCV valve is functioning properly, including the two below. Pick the one that seems easiest for you. (The engine should be idling no matter which method you choose.) Method 1: Remove the PCV valve from the valve cover with the hose still attached. Then place your finger over the open end of the hose. If the valve’s working well, you will feel strong suction. Try shaking the valve. If it’s unobstructed, it should rattle. If it’s fouled, the rattle will be indistinct or non-existent. Method 2: Remove the cap from the oil filler hole on the valve cover and place a stiff piece of paper over the opening. If your PCV valve is working properly, the paper should be sucked against the hole within seconds. If the valve doesn’t seem to be working properly, before you go to the trouble to replace it, try cleaning it to see if that makes a difference. Clean it yourself by immersing it in carburetor cleaner. There should be no gummy deposits or discoloration on a clean valve. If your PCV valve must be replaced, buy a new valve, remove the old one, and insert the new one in its place. Replacing a vehicle's PCV valve Follow these instructions to remove your vehicle’s PCV valve in order to check, clean, or replace it with a new one: Locate the PCV valve and loosen the hose clamp if there is one, or pull the little L-shaped housing off the end of the valve. Remove the valve. Some PCV valves are held in place with a rubber grommet and can just be pulled free. Others are threaded into place. If you can’t unscrew the valve by hand, try to grasp its base with the open end of a combination wrench or a small crescent wrench. Check the hose and the hose clamps or grommet. Remove the hose and blow through it. If the hose is dry, brittle, soft, spongy, or full of sludge or hard deposits, you should replace it. If the clamps are rusty or the grommet looks deteriorated, you should replace them, too. Screw in the new valve. If the new valve screws into place, do this by hand to avoid stripping the threads in the valve cover. Make sure that the valve is seated securely (it should stick just a little when you try to unscrew it again), but don’t over-tighten it! Reconnect the hose to the PCV valve. Start the engine, and check around the PCV valve for leaks.

Article / Updated 08-11-2022

Not every vehicle has a PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) valve. If yours has one, and your engine has been idling roughly or a malfunction indicator light goes on, check the PCV valve to make sure that it isn’t clogged with sludge from the contaminants in the exhaust fumes or stuck in the wide-open position. The PCV valve is a vital part of the emissions control system on most vehicles. The PCV valve is usually plugged into a rubber grommet in the valve cover, as shown here: It may be located on or near the intake manifold, as shown here. A hose leading to the PCV valve is often kept in place by a clamp. Sometimes there’s a little L-shaped housing on the end of the hose that covers the end of the valve. Follow these instructions to remove your vehicle’s PCV valve in order to check, clean, or replace it with a new one: Locate the PCV valve and loosen the hose clamp if there is one, or pull the little L-shaped housing off the end of the valve. Remove the valve. Some PCV valves are held in place with a rubber grommet and can just be pulled free. Others are threaded into place. If you can’t unscrew the valve by hand, try to grasp its base with the open end of a combination wrench or a small crescent wrench. Check the hose and the hose clamps or grommet. Remove the hose and blow through it. If the hose is dry, brittle, soft, spongy, or full of sludge or hard deposits, you should replace it. If the clamps are rusty or the grommet looks deteriorated, you should replace them, too. Screw in the new valve. If the new valve screws into place, do this by hand to avoid stripping the threads in the valve cover. Make sure that the valve is seated securely (it should stick just a little when you try to unscrew it again), but don’t over-tighten it! Reconnect the hose to the PCV valve. Start the engine, and check around the PCV valve for leaks.

Article / Updated 08-09-2022

If you've ever locked your keys in the car, you know how frustrating it can be. Here are a few tips on how to open a locked car door. Get your spare key One obvious way to get into the locked car is to have a spare key handy. Those little magnetic boxes that stick to the metal surface of the vehicle body or frame work great, but be sure to place your box in an obscure and hard-to-reach area where it can't jiggle loose and fall out. Be imaginative! Struggling a little to reach that extra key is better than giving the car away easily. And don't hide your extra house key with it. An even better solution is to get a spare key made and keep it in your purse or wallet rather than hiding it on the vehicle itself. This way, you'll have the spare with you, unless you happen to leave your wallet or purse in the car, too. Another possible solution: If you have a spare key at home, is there someone you could call who could bring it to you? Use a wire coat hanger Figuring out the best method for how to open a locked car door depends on the tools you have at your disposal as well as the type of vehicle you have — more particularly, the type of locks installed in your car. If you have the old-style door locks with little buttons on the window ledge, you should be able to unlock your door with a wire coat hanger. Here's how: Straighten the hanger and bend the end into a little hook. Insert the wire between the rubber molding and the side window. Carefully maneuver the hook around the door button and pull it up. You’re in! If you have smooth buttons, you can try to hook one using the hanger technique, but most will refuse to budge. You might also be able to move other types of buttons located on the inside of car doors, but with some, it's just not possible. The wedge, and other solutions Another method for getting into a locked car is to use a door stop (or wedge) and a long metal rod. Then, you take the same approach, inserting the wedge into the top of the door to make an opening. Place the rod into the opening and use it to push down on the unlock button of your car. Of course, the wedge and hanger techniques require being able to find these tools when you need them. But even so, if your vehicle has door locks that are recessed inside the interior door handle, you're going to need professional help. If you happen to lock yourself out of the vehicle while you have the trunk open, you may be able to move the rear seat out of the way and gain access to the rear of the car (or you can hide an extra ignition key in the trunk or your emergency car kit or toolbox). Electronic car door openers Fortunately, many new vehicles come with electronic door openers or “digital keys” that don’t allow you to lock the doors with the keys in the vehicle. The downside is that if you lose the gadget, it can take days and hundreds of dollars to replace it, and you’ll probably need to have the vehicle towed to a dealer who will order a new key. If your vehicle has an electronic door opener, you may be able to get the door open, but if you’ve lost the opener outside your vehicle, the ignition may fail to start without it. Some vehicles have override switches for this, so find out whether you’d be able to start your vehicle without your opener, and locate the override switch now, if there is one. Calling for professional help If you lock your keys in the car and need professional help, call emergency road assistance and ask if they will be able to open the door. If not, ask them to send a local locksmith. The good news is that each car key is coded by the auto manufacturer, and if you have the key code number and personal identification, a locksmith can make you a new key. Write down the key code number and leave it where someone at home can read it to you in an emergency. You might need the VIN (vehicle identification number). This is usually located on a panel on the dash above the steering wheel. It should be visible from outside the vehicle. Unfortunately, it is sometimes inside the door panel, which will do you no good if you lock keys in the car. If you have a proof of insurance card in your wallet, the VIN is likely on that card. If you can get to your insurance paperwork, or your insurance agent (have one on speed dial?), your VIN is on each page of your policy. Car keys are supposed to be one of a kind, but it helps if you know the year your car was manufactured, the make, and the model. For example, a 1975 Chevrolet Nova or a 2015 Chrysler Sebring. Besides the obvious helpers — AAA and other roadside emergency programs — you might be able to turn to your local dealer. If you're driving a Chrysler, for example, and there's a Chrysler dealer nearby, you can probably get them to provide an emergency key that unlocks the doors and trunk. These keys will not enable you to drive. Be prepared to show proof of ownership, however. If you've borrowed your uncle's vehicle for the day, dealers won't be too willing to help you.

Article / Updated 08-08-2022

The basic steps to waxing a vehicle are: Get a high-quality wax, using the information under "Types of Waxes" below as a guide. Wash your vehicle first to make sure you don't scratch the surface or trap particles of dirt and dust. Apply the wax or polymer sealant. Use a terry cloth towel, rubbing in one direction to break up the hazy surface. Use a soft, lint-free cloth (a cloth diaper works best) and rub in the other direction to bring out the shine. Waxing a vehicle preserves that clean and shiny finish and seals its “pores” against dirt, water vapor, and rust. If water doesn’t bead on the surface of the vehicle when it rains or when you hose it down, it needs waxing. Even if you use a car-washing product that has wax in it, you must still give most vehicles a thorough waxing at least twice a year. If you drive a dark-colored vehicle or one with a clear-coat or sensitive lacquer finish, make sure that the cleaners and waxes you use have no abrasives in them. If you’re unsure as to whether the finish on your vehicle requires special handling, check your owner’s manual or call your dealership for instructions. Types of waxes Unless your vehicle came with specific instructions from the manufacturer, you can choose from a variety of waxes. Here’s a closer look at your options: Liquid waxes: Generally speaking, liquid waxes are very easy to use but don’t last as long as soft or hard waxes. Liquid wax is excellent to replace the wax you lose if you wash your car with a wax-free detergent or soap, or for a touch-up between professional waxings. Soft waxes: Soft waxes are light and fluffy and are very easy to apply and remove. Some are mixed with a light cleaner, but be sure to wash the car thoroughly first anyway to remove particles that can scratch it. Apply soft wax with the applicator pads provided or with a soft terry cloth rag. Simply wipe on the wax, following the contours of the surface; allow it to dry to a haze; and wipe the haze away. Because the waxes that contain cleaners usually contain abrasives, don’t use them for every car wash or more often than once a month. In between, use a liquid car cleanser that contains a little wax. Hard or paste waxes: These types of waxes provide the most protection and should be used for your semi-annual major wax job. Always do a small area at a time to avoid letting the wax harden to a point where it’s hard to remove. Apply the wax according to the directions on the can with an applicator or soft, lint-free rag. Polymer preservatives: Products that contain polymer substances claim to protect a vehicle more effectively than wax and for longer periods of time. They bond with the surface and prevent it from fading and oxidizing. At the auto supply store, you can buy poly-sealants that are easy to apply and are supposed to protect your vehicle for six months to a year. Polyglycotes: Professionals and auto manufacturers offer silicon-based polyglycotes that are supposed to last from two to five years, but the jury’s still out on whether they can live up to their promises; most have to be freshened and buffed periodically to maintain the shine, which isn’t much different from waxing. If you still want to use one of these products, wash the vehicle thoroughly and give it a good cleaning and polishing first. When the surface is really clean, shiny, and dry, apply the protective coating, following the directions on the label.

Article / Updated 03-15-2022

If your car battery has died, you may be able to use jumper cables to jump-start it with the help of some good Samaritan's vehicle. If you can safely use jumper cables on your vehicle, make sure that the battery on the good Samaritan's vehicle has at least as much voltage as your own. As long as you hook up the cables properly, it doesn't matter whether your vehicle has negative ground and the other vehicle has positive ground, or your vehicle has an alternator and the other vehicle has a generator. If either vehicle has an electronic ignition system or is an alternatively fueled vehicle, the use of jumper cables may damage it. To safely jump-start, follow these steps: Take out your jumper cables. It's a good idea to buy a set of jumper cables and keep them in the trunk compartment. If you don't have jumper cables, you have to find a kind stranger who not only is willing to assist you, but who has jumper cables as well. Place both vehicles in Park or Neutral and shut off the ignition in both cars. Engage both parking brakes as well. Attach one of the red clips to the positive terminal of your battery. It has "POS" or "+" on it, or it's bigger than the negative terminal. Attach the other red clip to the positive terminal of the other car. Attach one of the black clips to the negative terminal on the other battery. Attach the last black clip to an unpainted metal surface on your car that isn't near the battery. Use one of the metal struts that holds the hood open. The cables should look like this. Start the working vehicle and let the engine run for a few minutes. Try to start your vehicle. If it won't start, make sure that the cables are properly connected and have the other person run their engine for five minutes. Then try to start your car again. If it still won't start, your battery may be beyond help. If the jump works and your car starts, don't shut off your engine! Drive around for at least 15 minutes to recharge your battery. If the car won't start the next time you use it, the battery isn't holding a charge and needs to be replaced. If your car doesn't start, check out these tips for troubleshooting a car that won't start.

Article / Updated 03-04-2022

Keeping your car’s interior clean is more than a matter of pride; dirt contains grit and chemicals that can eat away the surfaces of your car’s interior. Generally speaking, the same procedures and products that you use at home work quite well in your car. Clean the interior before you do the exterior. The most effective thing you can do is vacuum the seats first, remove and clean the floor mats, and then vacuum the carpets. Dust the dashboard, rear window shelf, and other surfaces, and use swabs or a toothbrush to get into A/C vents, around dashboard knobs, and other tight places. Aerosol cans of air used for cleaning cameras and computers can force dust from tiny apertures. Never use a dry rag or paper towels to clean the plastic lenses on instrument panel gauges. Small, dry particles of dust and grit can scratch the surface. If the lenses are clouded, use a plastic cleaner sparingly with a clean, damp terry cloth rag or sponge. Excess moisture can damage electronic instruments. Cleaning the upholstery You can use the same products to clean car upholstery and carpeting that you use to clean your chairs, sofas, and rugs. Keep the following in mind: Avoid using large quantities of water; you don’t want to get the padding under the fabric wet or rust the upholstery buttons, if there are any. Avoid sponges, working instead with damp rags wherever possible. If you think that you’ve gotten things too wet, use a portable hair dryer to dry the padding quickly and evaporate water from around buttons and seams. To keep upholstery from fading and deteriorating, park the vehicle facing in a different direction as often as possible so that the sun doesn’t keep hitting the same surfaces. During dry seasons, keep a window or the sunroof open a crack to prevent heat from building up inside. It can dissolve fabric adhesives and crack vinyl seat covers. Cleaning vinyl and plastic surfaces Vinyl seats and interiors and plastic surfaces such as dashboards, steering wheels, and interior moldings usually respond well to water and a mild soap or dish detergent, but you may have to resort to special vinyl-cleaning products if you’ve let things get out of hand. Protect all vinyl and plastic surfaces from sunlight and heat with products designed for those materials. While you’re at it, use them or a spray silicone lubricant on dashboards, weatherstripping, vinyl or rubber floor mats, and tires, too, to prevent them from cracking and drying out and to keep them supple. Avoid oil- and petroleum-based products that can damage vinyl and leave it brittle. Caring for leather seats If you’re lucky enough to have leather seats in your vehicle, take care of them. If properly cared for, leather can last a long time but, like all skin, it dries out and ages prematurely if it’s not kept clean and moisturized. Follow this advice for caring for leather upholstery: Use a high-quality product like saddle soap to clean and preserve leather seats. Neatsfoot oil waterproofs, softens, lubricates, restores, and preserves leather that has been cleaned first. If you must park where the sun can get at your leather seats, lean them forward or drape something over them to protect them. If conditions are severe, think about installing window film that blocks UV rays. If this is impossible, take comfort from the fact that leather seats don’t get as hot as vinyl ones, so you can probably sit down on them without screaming.

Cheat Sheet / Updated 02-14-2022

Following some basic auto repair safety rules and a monthly maintenance schedule will keep you safe and prevent auto problems later. Disassembling auto parts and putting them back together is easier if you stay calm and avoid distractions.

Article / Updated 12-30-2021

If your car is having problems, and you think that your engine is getting enough air and fuel, you’re probably having ignition system trouble. On traditional vehicles, the “fire” that lights the fuel/air mixture is really electric current that’s stored in the battery, replaced by the alternator, monitored by sensors, and directed by the ECU to the spark plugs in the cylinders at the proper time. If something along the way goes wrong and the spark fails to reach the plugs, all the air and fuel in the world won’t produce combustion in the cylinders, and the vehicle won’t go. If the engine was running before it died, it’s probably not the fault of the battery, solenoid, or starter. If just one spark plug suddenly malfunctions, the engine will continue to run on the other cylinders. It won’t run smoothly, but it will get you off the road and into a repair shop. If your car has an electronic ignition system, the ignition module may have gone bad. Because these vehicles have high-energy ignition systems that operate at 47,000 volts or higher, the old technique of pulling a distributor or spark plug cable to test for a spark is unsafe. Whether the vehicle has a distributorless ignition system or has an electronic ignition, you need to have a professional check it out. The good news is that these systems aren’t prone to breaking down, so they probably aren’t the problem. If your vehicle is an older model with a non-electronic ignition system, you can check the distributor cap to see whether the spark is getting from there to the coil and on to the spark plugs.

Article / Updated 12-03-2021

Car manufacturers have been working on self-driving cars since around 2008, and experts say they could become available to consumers during this decade. The self-driving car employs many available technologies which allow an automobile to move safely through the streets without a driver. Sensing its surroundings without any human intervention, the self-driving car would offer a whole new approach to commuting on the roadways. The technical components of a self-driving car Each car is equipped with an inertial navigation system, Global Positioning System (GPS), radar, video, and laser rangefinders. The vehicle leverages information gleaned from the inertial navigation system — a device that accumulates errors over time — and the GPS to determine where it is located and then uses the sensor data to further refine its position. From these data inputs, the car builds a three-dimensional image of where it is located. The car uses the noise filtered data from the sensors to make navigation decisions through its control system. A self-driving car is designed using a deliberative architecture, meaning that it’s able to make intelligent decisions by storing a map of its environment. From that stored map, the self-driving car makes decisions on the best way to navigate around obstacles, such as pedestrians and road work. After the vehicle has made routing decisions, a variety of commands are then sent to the car’s actuators which control the braking, throttle, and steering. All of these processes are repeated many times per second until the car comes to its final destination. The future of self-driving cars Great strides have recently been made by car manufacturers in the production and testing of self-driving cars. There still remains, however, many technological barriers that must be overcome before these vehicles are made safe for the open roads. For example, GPS can be unreliable and computer visions systems are limited. Adverse weather conditions also make these vehicles unreliable. For example, if snowfall partially or completely covers a traffic signal, the self-driving car may be unable to detect the color of the signals. The ability to navigate around unpredictable and varying construction sites is also a hindrance that must be overcome. None of these obstacles are insurmountable, but we are still a few years off with this technology.

Article / Updated 12-03-2021

You'll often hear this myth regarding hacking or modding your car: it automatically cancels your warranty. Don't believe it as gospel. Sure, changing the windshield wiper blades can't cause the transmission to break, but your warranty won't allow you to do whatever you want to your car. Warranty requirements When it comes to new car warranties, automotive owners and enthusiasts have a very important lobbying body on their side, namely the Specialty Equipment Market Association (SEMA). This association of aftermarket parts suppliers represents manufacturers, wholesalers, retailers, and distributors in North America. Because SEMA has a vested interest in the continued sale of aftermarket parts, it has helped to keep new car manufacturers in check by successfully lobbying for legislation that prevents new car dealership service providers from denying warranty coverage, for example in a seized motor, because you chose to use those snazzy aftermarket carbon fiber windshield wipers instead of the original equipment manufacturer (OEM) parts sold through their parts/service departments. Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act The relevant legislation here, the Magnuson-Moss Warranty-Federal Trade Commission Improvement Act of 1975, protects consumers from being wrongfully denied warranty coverage by new car dealers. The Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act states, in part, in Title 15, United States Code, Section 2302, subdivision (c): No warrantor of a consumer product may condition his written or implied warranty of such product on the consumer's using, in connection with such product, any article or service (other than article or service provided without charge under the terms of the warranty) which is identified by brand, trade, or corporate name; except that the prohibition of this subsection may be waived by the [Federal Trade] Commission if (1) the warrantor satisfies the Commission that the warranted product will function properly only if the article or service so identified is used in connection with the warranted product, and (2) the Commission finds that such a waiver is in the public interest. The Commission shall identify in the Federal Register, and permit public comment on, all applications for waiver of the prohibition of this subsection, and shall publish in the Federal Register its disposition of any such application, including the reasons therefore. Under this federal statute, a manufacturer who issues a warranty on your motor vehicle is prohibited from requiring you to use a service or maintenance item, unless the item is provided, free of charge, under your warranty or unless the Federal Trade Commission (FTC) waives this prohibition against the manufacturer. Further, under the act, aftermarket equipment that improves performance does not automatically void a vehicle manufacturer's original warranty, unless the warranty clearly states the addition of aftermarket equipment automatically voids your vehicle's warranty, or if it can be proven that the aftermarket device is the direct cause of the failure. Specifically, the rules and regulations adopted by the FTC to govern the interpretation and enforcement of the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act are set forth in the Code of Federal Regulations, Title 16-Commercial Practices, Chapter I-Federal Trade Commission, Subchapter G-Rules, Regulations, Statements, and Interpretations under the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act, Part 700-Interpretations under the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act. Contained within these rules and regulations is Section 700.10, which states: No warrantor may condition the continued validity of a warranty on the use of only authorized repair service and/or authorized replacement parts for non-warranty service and maintenance. For example, provisions such as, "This warranty is void if service is performed by anyone other than an authorized 'ABC' dealer and all replacement parts must be genuine 'ABC' parts," and the like, are prohibited where the service or parts are not covered by the warranty." These provisions violate the act in two ways. First, they violate the section 102(c) ban against tying arrangements. Second, such provisions are deceptive under section 110 of the act, because a warrantor cannot, as a matter of law, avoid liability under a written warranty where a defect is unrelated to the use by a consumer of "unauthorized" articles or service. This does not preclude a warrantor from expressly excluding liability for defects or damage caused by such "unauthorized" articles or service; nor does it preclude the warrantor from denying liability where the warrantor can demonstrate that the defect or damage was so caused. Under the Magnuson-Moss Act, a dealer must prove, not just vocalize, that aftermarket equipment caused the need for repairs before it can deny warranty coverage. If the dealer cannot prove such a claim — or it proffers a questionable explanation — it is your legal right to demand compliance with the warranty. The FTC administers the Magnuson-Moss Act and monitors compliance with warranty law. However, if you choose to modify your car, and suddenly the fancy new electronic control boxes that you added to your car make it run rough, not start when cold, or buck like a bronco, the dealer can and will charge a diagnostic fee to find out what is wrong with your car. If it turns out that your modifications are the cause of the problem, the dealer has every right not only to charge you for the diagnosis and repair, but to also void the portion of the warranty that has been compromised by the use of those aftermarket parts. Likewise, a dealer may refuse to service your car if it is adorned with aftermarket parts to the extent that its technicians cannot reasonably be expected to diagnose what is wrong with your car. As an example, all cars manufactured after 1994 are equipped with On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) ports that dealers use to read engine diagnostic codes for everything from an engine vacuum leak to a malfunctioning emissions system. If your chosen modification has compromised the dealer service center's ability to scan for these codes (aftermarket electric control units, ECUs, generally do not support OBDII), then there is a strong probability that the dealer service center will Deny warranty coverage Refuse to service the car Note with your factory field representative for your region/district that your car has been "modified" Your car's manufacturer notes are your car's "permanent record." Above all else, avoid compromising these notes. This is nearly always connected with your vehicles' Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) and will Ensure that your car will not have its warranty honored at any dealer service center in your area Dramatically reduce the resale and/or trade-in value of your car Event participation Some recent controversy surrounds car manufacturers' monitoring of Sports Car Club of America (SCCA) and National Hot Rod Association (NHRA) events and noting license plates and VINs as a justification for denying warranty coverage and either voiding out the warranty, or placing it on "restricted" status. The legality of these tactics by automobile manufacturers, in particular where the car is marketed with SCCA membership or literature or advertised in race-modified form, is questionable. To protect yourself, be aware of this trend and take the appropriate precautions in listing critical identifying information when participating in regional autocrosses, tracks days, and drag races. If you believe that your warranty has been wrongly canceled or placed on restriction either because of modifications made to your car, or because of your membership in, affiliation with, or participating in sanctioned club events or gatherings, consult with an attorney and use SEMA as a resource to fight the denial of coverage. When it comes to legality and warranty concerns, neither proceed based solely on slick advertising and marketing by parts manufacturers and resellers, nor allow yourself to be cowed into paranoia. Information is power, and knowing your rights and obligations is the foundation to any thoughtfully modified car.