Floors Articles

Article / Updated 04-20-2022

Installing a ceramic tile floor may appear to be beyond the abilities of some homeowners, but most DIYers can handle it. Just don’t rush it — have a little patience! The materials are relatively easy to work with, and you can rent the tools, even the big ones. Install ceramic tile over a subfloor that’s no less than 1 1/8 inches thick. A thinner subfloor will cause the floor to flex due to the weight of the tile. A flexing subfloor results in cracked tiles and grout — and a lot of headaches. Most tile manufacturers recommend installing a cement backer board instead of any other type of underlayment, such as plywood. The boards come in 3-by-5-foot sheets and are available where tile and grout are sold. After you establish your guidelines or layout lines, it’s time to install the tile: Before you think about setting the tile in place with mortar, make sure that the layout is even from side to side in both directions. To do so, dry-fit the tiles along the layout lines in both directions and make sure that the finished layout looks good to you. One important measurement to note is the width of the tiles that meet the wall. Make sure you never have less than half of a tile’s width at the wall. If you do, adjust the layout until you get an adequate end tile size. After you establish this, snap a new layout line to follow. Pick up the loose tiles and set them aside. Use a notched trowel to spread thin-set mortar over a 3-by-3-foot section at the intersection of the layout lines. Trowels come with different-sized notches, so check the tile manufacturer’s recommendation for the correct size. Working in small, square sections — say 3 feet by 3 feet — is important. If you work with a larger section, the mortar may harden (known as setting up) before you put the tiles in place. Be careful not to cover the layout lines. Begin laying tiles at the center point of the two layout lines, setting each tile into the mortar by tapping it gently with a rubber mallet. Use plastic spacers at each tile corner to maintain even grout lines between the tiles. Spacers are available where tile is sold. Continue laying tiles until you’ve covered the mortared area. Continue the process by applying mortar to another section and then laying tiles. Fit the last tile in the row at the wall. This step usually requires that you measure and cut the tile. First, set a scrap tile against the wall — it allows space for grout. Next, place a loose tile directly over the last full tile you laid (this is the tile you’ll cut to size). Then place another tile on the loose one and up against the tile on the wall. Mark the loose tile and cut it to fit along the edge. After all the tiles are set in the mortar, mix the grout according to the manufacturer’s instructions and install it by using a rubber grout float. Use a sweeping motion, pressing the grout into the gaps. Wipe away the excess grout with a grout sponge. Let the grout dry slightly and then wipe off the haze that appears. Cutting the tiles For most installations, you need a tile cutter, which you can rent. To make a straight cut with a tile cutter, simply place the tile face up in the cutter, adjust the cutter to the proper width, and score the tile by pulling the cutting wheel across the tile’s face. Then snap the tile along the scored line. If you need to make a cutout, say to go around a corner, mark the area you plan to cut out. Secure the tile in a vise or clamps — just be sure to cushion the vise jaws to protect the tile from scratches. Cut along the marks with a tile saw, which is a hand saw that’s similar to a coping saw, except that it has a carbide saw blade designed for cutting ceramic tile. If you need to make a round or circular cut, mark the area and then use a tile nipper to nip out small pieces of tile until you reach the line. A tile nipper is similar to a pair of pliers, but it has hardened cutting edges for cutting through ceramic tile.

Article / Updated 04-20-2022

Planning the layout of your tile floor is an essential step in guaranteeing the success of your project. Ever wonder how a professional tile layer always seems to get those tiles at a perfect 90- or 45-degree angle to the wall? You can do it, too, and here’s how. Install ceramic tile over a subfloor that’s no less than 1 1/8 inches thick. A thinner subfloor will cause the floor to flex due to the weight of the tile. A flexing subfloor results in cracked tiles and grout — and a lot of headaches. Most tile manufacturers recommend installing a cement backer board instead of any other type of underlayment, such as plywood. The boards come in 3-by-5-foot sheets and are available where tile and grout are sold. Begin planning by using a pair of perpendicular reference lines for establishing your layout instead of relying on measurements from walls, which are neither straight nor square to each other. To ensure the reference lines are square, use a 3-4-5 triangle rule as follows: Establish your first reference line by measuring across opposite sides of the room. Mark the center of each side and then snap a chalk line between the two marks. Measure and mark the center of that line. Then use a pencil, a framing square, and a straightedge held against its shorter leg to mark a second 4-foot-long line perpendicular to the first line. Before snapping a second line across the room, you want be sure the angle you formed is truly 90 degrees. Measure out 3 feet from the intersection and mark the penciled line. Then measure out 4 feet from the intersection and mark the spot on the chalk line. Measure the distance between the 3-foot and 4-foot marks. The distance should be 5 feet — the 3-4-5 rule. If it isn’t, make an adjustment and pencil a new line. Now snap a chalk line across the room that falls directly over the penciled line. After you have reference lines, use them to establish layout lines, which actually guide tile placement. Dry-set two rows of tiles, extending from the center to adjacent walls. If the last tile in a row would be less than half a tile, plan to shift the first course to be centered on the reference line rather than next to it. Snap your layout line a half line away from the reference line. Repeat the procedure for the other row. Laying out your tiles at 45-degree angles instead of 90 isn’t that difficult. You need only a couple more layout lines. Mark the two layout lines as you would for a 90-degree job and then follow these steps: Measure out the same distance (for example, 4 feet) on the perpendicular lines. From these points, make marks 4 feet out at right angles to the original lines. Snap a chalk line through these new marks and through the intersection of the two original layout lines. The two lines are now your layout lines for a 45-degree pattern.

Article / Updated 04-20-2022

Buying ceramic tile for floors requires measuring and math. Estimate how many ceramic tiles to buy by calculating the total floor area you plan to cover and dividing that number by the size of one tile. Ceramic floor tiles typically come in 4-, 6-, 9-, 12-, and 18-inch squares. First, determine the square footage of the room (don’t forget the closets!); just multiply the room’s length by its width. [Length of Floor] x [Width of Floor] = Total Area. Choose your tile size from the following list and use the accompanying equation to figure out the number of tiles to buy: 4-inch tiles: Total Area ÷ 0.1089 = Number of 4-inch tiles needed 6-inch tiles: Total Area ÷ 0.25 = Number of 6-inch tiles needed 9-inch tiles: Total Area ÷ 0.5625 = Number of 9-inch tiles needed 12-inch tiles: Total Area = Number of 12-inch tiles needed (you’ve measured your room in square feet, and a 12-inch tile is 1 square foot) 18-inch tiles: Total Area ÷ 2.25 = Number of 18-inch tiles needed Because there are variations in the color of tiles from one tile run to another, buy enough tiles to complete the job and have some leftovers for later repairs. You can always bring your room dimensions to a tile dealer, who can help you figure out how much tile and other supplies to purchase.

Article / Updated 07-17-2017

To refinish a hardwood floor, the first thing you need to do is sand off the old finish. You need a walk-behind floor sander, which you can rent. You also want to rent a handheld power edge sander for sanding tight against walls and in corners and doorways. Both units have a vacuum and dust bag system to minimize the amount of sanding dust left behind. Sanding a Hardwood Floor A walk-behind sander has a large rotating drum that evenly removes the finish — if you use the correct series of sandpaper grades and operate the sander properly. Rental stores have the three grades of sandpaper you need for successful floor refinishing: coarse, medium, and fine. For safety, wear a dust mask and eye and ear protection. Once you have finished sanding, you fill any nicks or gouges in the floor. Use wood putty and a broad knife to fill any spots. Let the wood putty dry according to package directions and then lightly sand the areas smooth by hand with medium or fine sandpaper. After you’ve completed all the sanding, you must remove all the dust from the floor, molding, and walls. Wipe down the walls and moldings once to get the dust onto the floor, and then use a damp rag on the moldings to remove any residue. You don’t want any dust falling onto the floor later, when the new finish is drying. Let the dust settle, and then vacuum. A standard shop vacuum with a dust filter will do the trick. After you vacuum, wipe the entire floor surface with a tack cloth, a wax-impregnated piece of cheesecloth designed to pick up and hold dust residue. Plan to use several tack cloths — don’t overextend the cloths’ dust-holding capacity. Types of Finishes for a Hardwood Floor The type of finish you choose depends on the look you want for your floor. Durability is also an issue. Your choices are Polyurethane: Either oil- or water-based, polyurethane comes in various degrees of luster and has a sort of plastic look. Both finish types darken or even yellow wood, although some newer water-based products don’t darken as much. Poly finishes are excellent for high-traffic and high-moisture areas. However, if the finish gets nicked or gouged, it’s extremely difficult to spot-repair. Varnish: Varnish comes in a variety of lusters, from matte to glossy. The higher the gloss, the more durable the surface. Varnish often darkens with age. On the up side, you can make spot-repairs to varnish. Penetrating sealer: This offers a natural-looking finish that brings out the wood’s grain; however, it may darken over time. Penetrating sealer offers good protection, especially when waxed. However, it’s less durable than polyurethane or varnish. It’s the easiest of the three to spot-repair, though. Ideally, you want to seal the floor on the same day you finish sanding to prevent the open wood surface from absorbing moisture. For best results, apply the stain (if desired) and sealer with a sheepskin applicator. Be sure to apply the sealer evenly, and use enough to cover the surface. But be careful not to apply too much. Excess sealer doesn’t soak into the wood — it pools on the surface. If you fail to remove it, it leaves an ugly, ugly spot. Steps to Refinishing a Hardwood Floor After the sealer has dried, follow these steps: Buff the floor with No. 2 (fine) steel wool. Vacuum and wipe the floor again with a tack cloth. It’s critical to remove all the dust between finish coats, or you’ll have a rough and ugly floor. Apply the first of two coats of finish wax or other floor finish, such as polyurethane or varnish. Follow the directions on the finish container for drying time between coats. Apply the final coat. Wait at least 24 hours after the final coat dries before moving furniture into the room.

Step by Step / Updated 03-27-2016

Before refinishing a hardwood floor, you need to know how to get the floors ready for sanding. The way you get floors ready for sanding affects the final finish, so prepare carefully. The sanding process also creates fine sawdust that can permeate the house if you’re not painstaking in your preparations.

Step by Step / Updated 03-27-2016

Knowing how to stain and seal a hardwood floor properly pays off in having a beautiful finish and enduring protection. Staining and sealing hardwood floors the right way — whether you’re refinishing, refurbishing, or stripping the wood floor — results in years of enjoyment.

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

Does your home improvement project involve a new vinyl floor? To figure out how many vinyl floor tiles, or sheet vinyl, you need, follow these simple formulas: Vinyl floor tile calculator To figure out how many vinyl floor tiles you need to buy, calculate the floor area you want to cover and divide that number by the size of one tile: Floor Area: [Length of Floor] × [Width of Floor] = Floor Area Tiles to Order: For 9" Tiles: Floor Area ÷ 0.5625 = Number of 9" Tiles Needed For 12" Tiles: Floor Area = Number of 12" Tiles Needed Sheet vinyl flooring calculator Determine how much sheet vinyl to purchase by calculating the square footage of floor you plan to cover and dividing that number by 9 to get the number of square yards of flooring you need. Floor Area: [Length of Floor (ft.)] × [Width of Floor (ft.)] = Floor Area (sq. ft.) Sheet Vinyl to Order: [Floor Area] ÷ 9 = Number of Sq. Yards of Floor Covering Needed

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

If your home improvement plan involves a new ceramic tile floor, how do you determine the amount of ceramic tiles you need? Simply calculate the area you plan to cover and divide that number by the size of one ceramic tile. Total Area (Floor, Wall, Countertop): Length (ft.) × Width (ft.) = Total Area (sq. ft.) Tile to Order: For 4" Tiles: Total Area ÷ 0.1089 = Number of 4" Tiles Needed For 6" Tiles: Total Area ÷ 0.25 = Number of 6" Tiles Needed For 9" Tiles: Total Area ÷ 0.5625 = Number of 9" Tiles Needed For 12" Tiles: Total Area = Number of 12" Tiles Needed For 18" Tiles: Total Area ÷ 2.25 = Number of 18" Tiles Needed

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

If your home improvement project involves new carpeting, determining how much carpeting to buy is easy. Calculate the square footage of floor you want to cover, divide that number by 9, and you have the number of square yards of carpeting you need. Floor Area: [Length of Floor (ft.)] x [Width of Floor (ft.)] = Floor Area (sq. ft.) Carpeting to Order: [Floor Area] ÷ 9 = Number of Sq. Yards of Carpeting Needed

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

Deciding whether to sand a hardwood floor by yourself or to hire a pro requires honesty about your abilities. Hire a professional to sand floors if you have any doubts about tackling the job yourself. The required drum sander can be hard to control — sanding a wood floor can restore it to beauty or destroy it in one afternoon. Using a drum sander can be challenging. The sander runs continuously, so you must keep the machine moving at a uniform speed. If you stop the machine in one spot for too long, it’ll grind its way right down to the basement. Okay, maybe not, but anything less than an even pass across the floor can gouge the wood at that spot and make the sanded floor uneven. For example, one guy was sanding his dining room floor and blew a fuse. He went to the basement and threw the switch in the fuse box. When he got back upstairs, the sander had started up and was running wild, sanding gouges in the floor as it moved around. This example isn't to scare you but to underscore the serious damage that not-so-handy homeowners can incur when they boldly choose to sand their own floors.