Camping & RVs Articles

Cheat Sheet / Updated 01-27-2025

If you’re ready to hit the open road in a recreational vehicle (RV), you need to start by understanding the different types of RVs available. Unless you want to buy your own RV, you need to know where to rent one. Finally, if you’re looking to camp for free, without the hassle of a campground and noisy neighbors, you need to know how to find free camping locations across the United States. Read on for all the information you need.

Article / Updated 10-26-2023

Listen to the article:Download audio If you're planning to convert a vehicle for your van life adventure, you'll need to put together a cooking area, complete with a stove, cookware, and other supplies. What do you need for van life cooking? One of the most important decisions you’ll need to make is which type of stovetop (or burner) you’d like to use. Stovetops come in many different styles, types, and shapes. Here are three main types that I have used over my van life journey: Single-burner portable stove with gas cartridge: For many people who just take their campers out on weekends or on short trips, a one-hob burner for warming up soup or packet meals might well be enough. I’ve always carried one of these around with me just in case my main gas bottle runs out, and it’s helped out when I’ve boiled up pasta a few times. My main gripe with the single burner is that if you want to cook a meal with multiple parts, everything ends up taking a lot longer, as each component will need a separate turn on the burner. Two-burner gas stovetop with grill: The two-burner gas stovetop with grill system is a great all-around option. This was the first type of burner I had in my van, and it allowed me the freedom to whip up Bolognese on one hob and pasta on the other. (I do eat more types of food than pasta, I promise.) The grills on these burners can sometimes be a little hit and miss, so it pays to buy a reputable model from a company like Vango. I loved cooking sausages on my grill for breakfast on wintry Saturday mornings. Three-burner stovetops: As you might have guessed by now, my personal preference is the three-burner stovetop. I need all the pan space I can get when I’m making meals, especially when the Omnia Oven (more about this below) is taking up the middle hob. Gas drop-out vents: If you’ve got any type of gas bottle in your van — propane, butane, or LPG — then you need a gas drop-out vent as an extra and crucial safety measure. Because gas is heavier than air, if there is a leak, the gas will flow out through your gas drop-out vent and away from your van. I know it might seem like a little thing to overlook, but it’s so important if anything goes wrong with your gas setup. Cooking like a pro on the road Good workers never blame their tools, which is why I’m about to reveal some of the best gear for cooking on the go. The only thing you need to be blaming from now on is how tight your pants are after all the good food you’re going to be making and eating! XL RidgeMonkey: The XL RidgeMonkey compact sandwich toaster is possibly the most versatile piece of cooking equipment I’ve ever used on my van life adventures. This little piece of genius was originally designed for fishermen to cook up their catch on a jet burner at the side of the river. Omnia Oven: If you want to go one step further and bake bread and cakes, cook chicken thighs, or make incredible stews or roast potatoes, then you need an Omnia Oven. This doughnut-shaped stovetop oven changed everything for me, especially while living in a camper van during the COVID-19 pandemic lockdowns. The Omnia Oven works through convection. Heat is drawn up from the hob through the middle of the oven and passes up and over the food inside, providing heat all the way around the oven and creating an even bake. Nesting bowls: Mixing cakes and kneading bread can get a little messy when you’re trying to use pans and mugs. That’s why nesting bowls are such a great idea. Nesting bowls, as you might have gathered from the name, nest inside one another. Joseph Joseph makes a great set that includes a large mixing bowl, colander, sieve, smaller pouring bowl, and a set of cup measures all inside the largest bowl. The measuring cups are perfect for measuring (go figure) out baking ingredients, sushi rice, sauces, and much more. Bialetti moka pot: This stovetop espresso maker is the perfect companion at breakfast time or before a long drive. It doesn’t take up a lot of space and stows away in a cupboard or drawer easily, providing budding adventurers with an energy boost boasting sumptuous flavors at the drop of a hat. Handleless pans: You’ll have a hard time cooking without any pans, making them a bit of an essential item when it comes to stocking up your kitchen. The only problem is that they can be quite bulky, so grabbing a set of handleless pans that pack away neatly can really make cooking in a van a lot easier. I stored all my pans in a pan hammock underneath my sink. It was a good way to use space that would have otherwise been wasted and freed up a drawer for more dry ingredients. BioLite kettle set: This little piece of equipment can be used for both brewing up tea or cooking soups and stews, and is another genius space-saving utensil for tiny-home lovers. It also has an insulted handle to keep your hands scorch-free. Knife set: No matter your dietary preferences, it pays to have a trusty knife set on board for preparing food. As you know, I’m all about making life easy for myself, so having a good bread knife as well as a sharp blade for slicing everything from tomatoes and tofu to chicken and chorizo is essential, especially when you love food as much as I do. Handheld food processor: Zyliss makes a neat little manual food processor that is great for chopping up onions or making dips in your camper. It makes mincemeat (literally) of food prep and works your arm out at the same time. Just pull the hook and back like a miniature rowing machine, and you’re good to go!

Cheat Sheet / Updated 06-02-2023

If you're planning to buy or rent an RV, congratulations! You're about to embark upon a wonderful way of vacationing. Before you start looking for your RV, here are ten important considerations to ponder. Also, this Cheat Sheet includes information about toll roads, toll ways, and turnpikes, and other tips for enjoying your RV adventure.

Article / Updated 05-19-2023

If you're new to RV vacations, you might have difficulty in choosing the right campground or RV park, selecting a cool museum to check out, or knowing which national park to include in your route. Here are a few ideas to get you started. Some of the best campgrounds When it comes to choosing a place to stay, it could be as simple as good, better, or best or simply selecting between two choices from what is available in smaller less popular areas. Any campground offers a place to turn off the engine and sleep for a few hours, and sometimes that is enough. Over time you will develop your own criteria. AAA Midway RV Park, Coos Bay, Oregon (541-888-9300): Three blocks from the ocean and convenient to town, this park has 59 full hookups, Wi-Fi, and easy access to great seafood restaurants and markets. The Campsites at Disney’s Fort Wilderness Resort, Lake Buena Vista, Florida (407-939-2267): Fort Wilderness has 694 full hookups near the Disney World action, with transportation to the park. The lake offers boating and fishing, or you can golf or relax in the pool. The Great Outdoors RV, Nature & Golf Resort, Titusville, Florida (800-621-2267): Here, you find 150 full hookups, a lake for fishing, a spa, an 18-hole golf course, tennis courts, and a heated pool. Harbortown RV Resort, Monroe, Michigan (734-384-4700): Harbortown has 248 paved sites; 130 of them are full hookups, some with 50-amp electricity. It also has an 18-hole golf course; fishing; and a kids’ fun center with miniature golf, an arcade, go-karts, and batting cages that augment the heated pool. Traverse Bay RV Resort, Acme, Michigan (231-938-5800): Traverse Bay has 157 extra-wide, paved sites with patios and full hookups. The park is restricted to motor homes and fifth-wheels that are 28 feet or longer and not older than ten years. Museums that are well worth the visit Admiral Nimitz Museum and National Museum of the Pacific War, Fredericksburg, Texas: Extensive coverage of World War II battles in the Pacific is located in the restored Nimitz Steamboat Hotel and Gardens. Alabama Music Hall of Fame, Tuscumbia, Alabama: Although the museum contains only the work of musicians who were born or lived in Alabama, the list is extensive, including Nat King Cole, Dinah Washington, Lionel Richie, and Toni Tennille. It’s a seeing-and-listening museum. Biltmore Estate, Asheville, North Carolina: This museum is pricey but worth the expenditure. The massive 250-room Biltmore mansion and gardens give an extensive picture of how the other half once lived. Buffalo Bill Center of the West, Cody, Wyoming: Five museums are set in a sprawling complex containing the Buffalo Bill Museum, the Plains Indian Museum, the Whitney Gallery of Western Art, the Cody Firearms Museum, and the Draper Museum of Natural History. You easily can spend an entire day (or more) here. Farnsworth Art Museum, Rockland, Maine: This complex of consists of the Farnsworth Art Museum and the Wyeth Center in town, and the Olson House (celebrated in Andrew Wyeth’s painting Christina’s World) in the nearby countryside. Hearst Castle, San Simeon, California: Built from 1919 to 1947, the building was never finished. Four different tours cover the interior and exterior of “The Ranch,” as William Randolph Hearst dubbed his castle by the sea. Museum Center at Union Terminal, Cincinnati, Ohio: The restored 1933 Art Deco railway station is now home to three excellent museums: the Cincinnati History Museum, the Museum of Natural History, and the hands-on Children’s Museum. National Baseball Hall of Fame, Cooperstown, New York: Baseball fans can spend several days perusing artifacts ranging from Ty Cobb’s sliding pads to bats used by Mickey Mantle and Mark McGwire. Ozark Folk Arts Center, Mountain View, Arkansas: The center was created in 1973 to preserve the music, dance, handicrafts, and folkways of the Ozarks. Wander among artisans and craftsmen at work and eat some down-home Ozark food. The Rock and Roll Hall of Fame and Museum, Cleveland, Ohio: A modern glass building designed by I. M. Pei houses a huge collection of artifacts, such as life-size mannequins of John Lennon, Alice Cooper, and Michael Jackson, plus many of their instruments. National parks along the way Acadia National Park, Maine: This park has a 27-mile Park Loop Road, which makes a circle out of Bar Harbor and offers a good overview of the gardens, beaches, cliffs, and Cadillac Mountain. Carlsbad Caverns National Park, New Mexico: A variety of caverns offers exciting, colorful underground tours. Join the evening crowd to watch 300,000 bats soar out of the cave for their evening meals. Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona: This spectacular attraction can be crowded in summer. A good way to visit is to take the Grand Canyon Railway for a round-trip train ride out of Williams, Arizona. Great Smoky Mountains National Park, North Carolina and Tennessee: Located at the end of the Blue Ridge Parkway, the park has an 11-mile, loop road off Newfound Gap Road that’s a must-see. Lyndon B. Johnson National Historical Park, Texas: Visitors see the birthplace, home, ranch, and final resting place of the former president. The park has two parts: Johnson City, has the visitor center, and the LBJ Ranch. Petrified Forest National Park and Painted Desert, Arizona: Stop in the visitor center at the entrance to the Petrified Forest to get a map to use a loop road through both areas. Shenandoah National Park, Virginia: Skyline Drive begins in this park and heads south into the Blue Ridge Parkway. Three RV campgrounds are located within the park. Vicksburg National Military Park, Mississippi: This park is the site of one of the most decisive battles of the Civil War. A 16-mile auto tour runs through the park and its monuments.

Article / Updated 05-18-2023

RV camping is for everybody. No other form of travel adjusts so readily to any sort of special need. RV vacations are family-friendly in the extreme. RVing is a cheap and convenient way to take the whole family on vacation, including your pets or elderly parents. In most cases, having the kitchen and bathroom with you makes the “I’m hungry” and “I have to go potty” requests easy to deal with, and traveling together as a family can foster closeness and communication. RVing with kids The simple truth is that kids love RVing and camping. In fact, you can help your children grow into teens and adults who appreciate travel by allowing them to use a paper map, a book like this one, and a time and money budget to plan their own “mystery trip,” with their parents as chauffeurs, over a long weekend. They pick the destination and route, and plan and arrange all aspects of the trip. Veterans of family RV travel suggest involving children in the planning stages, rotating seats in the car or RV en route to the campsite, and assigning duties at the campsite. Older children can be responsible for packing items and handling last-minute duties at home, like locking the doors and windows and removing perishable food from the refrigerator. Even infants can go camping happily. Experts recommend carrying a toddler in a backpack carrier and an infant in a front-pack carrier, both of which are made specifically for hiking. Bring along a folding stroller and playpen, mosquito netting, and a baby guardrail for the bed to use while in camp. A baby seat that clamps to a picnic table also enables a small child to join the rest of the family at meals. Packing sunscreen to protect children’s delicate skin is essential. So is bringing along a gentle insect repellant. For more tips on traveling with kids, check out these websites: Family Travel Network offers travel tips and reviews of family-friendly destinations, vacation deals, and campgrounds. Travel Mamas offers ideas and tips for traveling with kids, including many first-hand accounts and destination reviews by the founder. RVing with pets As you travel, you meet many RV owners who favor their particular brand of travel because they can take their pets along with them. The Travel Industry Association of America says that 6 percent of all traveling dog owners take their pets with them on vacation, whereas only 1 percent of cat owners do. I’m willing to bet that some 50 percent of all traveling dog owners (and probably 25 percent or more of cat owners) take their pets along on their RV vacations. Check campground information in advance to make sure pets are permitted. Some campgrounds assess a surcharge; a few impose pet restrictions, which means that they determine to allow pets on an individual basis, based breed or size. Always call ahead to ask. Although a few campgrounds have fenced dog runs where pets can frolic off the leash, almost all require dogs to be on leashes in the campground at all times. Owners also are required to clean up after their pets. Some campgrounds provide dispensers of plastic bags at the dog runs and receptacles for the used bags. Otherwise, carry your own cleanup bags, and dispose of them properly. Dogs should not be left alone in an RV at the campground or tied up outside the RV while you’re away. Never leave your pet in the RV for more than 10 or 20 minutes in mild weather when you’re running an errand, and don’t leave your pet alone in the RV at all when temperatures are hot. The following tips can help you and Fido have an enjoyable RV trip: Feed pets at night. Feed them after you’re finished driving for the day, especially if they’re susceptible to motion sickness. Give pets water only during the day. Give your pets bottled water, without any additives for taste, which you need to introduce at home before the trip. As you would for humans, use bottled water, because the mineral content in water changes from one campground to the next. A contented tummy is something that you want a traveling pet to have. Bring familiar toys and bedding for the pet. Like security blankets, objects from home can comfort your pet on the road. Help your pet become accustomed to the RV. If you have access to the RV before the trip, spend some time in it with your pet. Keep your cat’s litter box in the shower or tub. Encase the litter box in a 30-gallon plastic trash bag, put the box in the trash bag bottom down, dump a 10-pound bag of cat litter into the box, and snap on the litter-box cover. Carry a couple of small washable throw rugs. Putting a small rug over the RV carpeting can protect it from muddy little cat or dog feet. Debate continues as to whether pets are safer while kept in or out of a kennel crate in a moving RV. Defenders of crates (many of them professional dog handlers who travel to and from shows in RVs) say that occupants are safer when the animal is confined while the vehicle is in motion. People who favor freeing pets during the ride claim that it enables animals to protect themselves from injury. A challenge for a single traveler with free pets is keeping them off the dashboard and out of the windshield, as well as preventing them from blocking the mirrors and clear views of the road. A good online resource for information about traveling with your pet is Petswelcome, which also dispenses medical tips and lists the names of animal-friendly lodgings and campgrounds, kennels, and veterinarians. RVing for people with disabilities Recreational vehicles can be made as accessible and comfortable for the physically challenged — especially those in wheelchairs — as any home. Mechanical seat lifts, either installed at the factory or retrofitted into existing units, can be added to motor homes for people who have trouble climbing steps. Wider doors, raised toilets, roll-in showers, roll-under sinks, lower kitchen counters and cabinets, and a permanent place to lock in the wheelchair while the RV is in motion are options that can be installed at the factory or by aftermarket custom shops. More campgrounds offer handicap-accessible campsites with wide, level paved sites to accommodate wheelchairs, walkers, and electric scooters. Many provide improved access to public toilets and showers by installing ramps and handrails. Wheelchair travelers aren’t the only ones who adjust well to RVs. Many other handicapped travelers — from those on dialysis to those requiring a supply of oxygen — find much more comfort and security in a well-equipped motor home than they do in an automobile, plane, or train. The Recreation Vehicle Industry Association (RVIA; 703-620-6003) publishes a directory with information about RV accessibility for travelers with disabilities. Another valuable resource is the Society for Accessible Travel and Hospitality (212-447-7284), which offers a wealth of travel resources for people with all types of disabilities and informed recommendations on destinations, access guides, and companion services. Annual membership fees are $49 for adults and $29 for seniors (63-plus) and students.

Article / Updated 11-08-2022

What does it mean to be a tiny home dweller, and can everyone make the change from living in a house to living in a converted panel van? Speaking from experience, getting into the mindset of a tiny home dweller isn’t something that happens overnight; it takes a lot of thought, compromise, and self-evaluation about what you want to get out of your new lifestyle before you can fully commit to this way of life. Luckily, I’ve already done all that thought-provoking soul-searching and got the T-shirt to prove it. And while you can’t physically borrow said T-shirt as it isn’t real, I can help you kickstart the process with some useful advice about what it takes to become a vanlifer. You'll learn how to think like a tiny homeowner, decide how long you want to travel, and most important, whether you think van life could be the lifestyle for you. Is it hard to live in a van? Don’t worry; I’m not going to ask you to sit down and meditate or chant some mantras (though by all means, feel free if you’ve had a busy week so far). Getting into the mindset of a tiny home dweller does, however, take a little bit of inner reflection and a willingness to change your outlook on the world. Living in any kind of tiny home takes a little bit of adjusting time. To go from a house with two bedrooms, a bathroom, kitchen, living room, and dining room, to a house with one room and a toilet cupboard (in the case of a van), is a massive change. You’re about to give up a lot of the things you rely on daily, things that have become commonplace, like a dishwasher, a flushing toilet, your guitar amplifiers, a flushing toilet, your shower … oh, and a flushing toilet. Why did I mention the toilet three times? It’s the one thing people most often tell me that stops them from living the van life. Giving up the luxury of a flushing toilet is too much of a change from their normal routine. When I first started building my tiny home, I had a lot of these same reservations. Would I be able to manage? How would I feel in such a small space? Could I really give up the TV? Honestly, and I genuinely mean every word here, I did not miss any part of living in a house. Sure, emptying the toilet down another toilet while I lived in a van in Yorkshire and the new routine of showering at the gym took some getting used to, but after a few weeks, it just became the new normal. Is the van life right for you? Now, I’m going to get a little deep here, so you might want to make yourself comfortable for this next bit. What is the most important thing to you in life? Is it working hard and saving up for a house or a big trip? Is it getting out into the open and spending time with your family? Is it living within your means in order to have more time to spend working on a passion project that you might want to turn into a career? In some respects, tiny home living can help with all three of those choices. I worked full time while living in a van for over a year, saving my wages every month for my European travels. Equally, I know people who have done the same thing and put their money toward buying land in a different country. Living small certainly gives you more time to spend doing the things you love, too, whether that’s heading out on a trip with your loved ones, or working less and putting your energy into writing a book or honing your photography skills. I can best summarize the feeling that made me want to live in a tiny house as “wanting more.” You’ve got to want that change more than anything else, to be prepared for things to get a little bit tough at times, to live a life that can be uncertain but with infinite rewards and exciting discoveries every day. The pros of van life I think one of the best parts of living the van life — and this is a theme I often come back to in my book — is the lack of rushing around or the need to do anything to a timescale. There’s no should in the van life vocabulary; you do what you want, when you want, making your own hours if you work on the road or just enjoying life on your own terms. Say goodbye to the stressful morning commute or eating your breakfast while watching mind-numbing morning television shows if you’re taking your job with you. Say goodbye to waking up listening to the next door neighbor’s toilet cistern rumbling through the wall or the sound of the garbage truck reversing down your street. Every day feels more relaxed when you wake up in a new place, listening to the ever-changing sounds of nature or sometimes no sounds whatsoever. For a lot of people, this lack of structure and routine can feel a little like freefalling. Again, it’s no real surprise; since around the age of 4, most of us have gone to school at a certain time, eaten meals at set times, gone to university and, eventually, to work in a preplanned structure laid out for us. To go from this to a life where you make the rules can be freeing for some, but make others feel lost. A motto to live by Here’s something I want you to think about, and this is something I tell people who are thinking about living the van life on a daily basis: There is no dress rehearsal for life, so don’t waste time dreaming about your perfect life when you could be out there living the dream. Admittedly, I’m not a philosopher and I haven’t had many public speaking gigs thus far in my career, but I think you get the general idea. If you’re reading this from the office instead of sending emails, then don’t wait until you’re retired to give travel a go. If you’re retired but thinking about waiting for the right time, throw caution to the wind and get out there and give van life a go. I know too many people, young and old, who have sadly passed away before getting to live their traveling dreams. Don’t wait for tomorrow; make that decision to live a different life today. I’ll now wait 30 seconds for your applause before carrying on with the next section. Deciding how long to be on the road I think we can all agree that you’re now fully committed to giving van life a try, what with buying this book and my rousing speech earlier. The next question you need to ask yourself is: How long would you like to be on the road away from home? Or, and here’s the million-dollar question: Do you want to take your home on the road with you? Before I go any further, I know that while it’s physically possible to “up sticks” and live the van life full time, not everyone can or wants to give up the life they have built to live on the road. For some, it’s just not viable due to work locations, while others might love their jobs and not fancy the thought of giving up the empire they have built. Generally, there are three categories of van life travel that can help you figure out what kind of lifestyle you might want: Weekend warriors: As the name suggests, weekend warriors simply travel over a weekend. Whether frequenting campsites or wild camping in the hills, scheduled short trips away give you something to look forward to, a chance to live as free as a bird on the weekend while still maintaining a steady work/life balance through the week. Short-term — one to six months: Planning a short-term adventure of one to six months could be a more manageable way of fitting van life into your current life. So many people buy a van and convert it as a cheap way to see the world, always knowing that it won’t be with them forever. Of course, there’s nothing to say that building a van for short-term travels can’t lead to weekend excursions later down the line or a potential move to full-time travel if you decide to take your job on the road with you. Full-time travel: Obviously, if you’re thinking about traveling full time, then you need to either be in a position where you are financially stable or plan on working on the road. I managed to travel full time, working two days a week writing articles and budgeting costs accordingly along the way.

Article / Updated 11-07-2022

Once you’ve decided whether you’re going to live in a van full time or part time, you'll need to figure out what type and size of camper is right for you. There are so many different styles, sizes, and wheelbases out there that it can seem like a minefield if you don’t know the lingo. Luckily for you, I compiled a list of all of the different vehicle classes for you for reference: Class A: These campers are the large touring vehicles you might see rock stars traveling in on the way to a gig. They are large busses with multiple rooms inside and what I would definitely class as luxury campers. This is not exactly the type of vehicle for an off-road adventure, but definitely one for a comfortable stay in the wilderness. Class B: This class covers all conversions made within the pre-existing dimensions of a panel van, such as a Ram ProMaster or a Mercedes-Benz Sprinter (see the photo below). This is, by far, the most common class for DIY camper conversions. Class C: These campers are what I like to call “traditional” campers — think snowbirds driving to sunnier climates in their Winnebagos when the first frost hits. Class C campers often have a sleeping area in the bulkhead over the top of the cab area and the telltale fold-out steps for entering the living area. Truck camper: This type of camper is perfect for off-grid enthusiasts and usually consist of a removable camping pod with a pop-top roof that slots into the truck bed itself. I’ve spent a lot of time traveling the United States in a truck camper mounted on the back of a Dodge Ram and that setup never, ever let me down. The All-American RV: If you watch a lot of movies, then chances are good you’ve seen families hitting the road in an all-American RV. And trust me, they’re just as big in real life as they are on the screen. These are the type of vehicles that you might see trundling up to Glacier Point in Yosemite or cruising down to Big Sur in the summertime. Classic camper vans: Whenever I hear the term, “classic camper van,” there’s only one vehicle that springs to mind — the Volkswagen bus and, specifically, the T2 Splitty, which is still the symbol of the swinging 1960s. These are most often the subject of restoration projects and can make for beautiful busses, though they often soak up money like a sponge due to continual repairs. School bus: If you’re used to canal boat living, then a school bus might be a good option for a faster-moving tiny home. With more space and plenty of light, they make a great blank canvas for a full-time home. Vans also come in four wheelbase sizes: short wheelbase (SWB), medium wheelbase (MWB), long wheelbase (LWB), and extra-long wheelbase (ELWB). The wheelbase is the measured distance between the middle point of the front wheels and the middle point of the wheels at the back of the van. The longer the wheelbase, the more room you’ll have inside the main body of the van to utilize for your conversion. Picking the right-sized camper for you You now know that van life isn’t a one-size-fits-all kind of deal, so what sized camper should you opt for? Well, it all depends on what you want to get out of your van life experience and how often you’re going to use your camper van. And then again, it’s also down to personal preference. Do you view standing up at all times as an essential feature, or do you prefer to go under the radar when boondocking? This will have a great effect on your decision whether to buy a small or larger van. Following, I touch on some of the most popular camper van styles for people carrying out conversions and the benefits they can provide. Small campers and pop-tops Small campers and pop-tops cover everything from minivan conversions and VW Caddys to VW California campers and the epic Sportsmobile 4x4. These are campers that many people would class as “day vans” — campers people take to the beach or the mountains for one or two days at the most. There’s one thing for certain: Small campers and pop-tops are certainly easier to park in everyday locations. I’ve taken both out on the road on different trips, and smaller campers can usually fit under height barriers that would otherwise thwart bigger vans like Ford Transits and Mercedes-Benz Sprinters. A pop-top camper is a camper van with a roof that pops up when stationary (see the photo below). These campers can either have whole segments that push up or more commonly, a roof that pushes up into a triangular shape revealing canvas walls. Both small campers and pop-top vans tend to make use of a rock ‘n’ roll bed setup in which the bed doubles up as a sofa throughout the day and folds out into a bed at night. While this creates more living space, it does reduce the amount of garage storage in the boot of the camper, so that’s something to think about if you’re planning on living in a van for a long time. Still, the added benefit of buying a pop-top camper is that the pop-top gives you extra space for standing and fills the camper with more light. It just depends on whether you mind setting up and packing down your living area every time you park and set off from a camping spot. Keep in mind that in bear country, soft-shell pop-ups aren’t allowed as bears can easily rip into them. Some classic examples of vans in this range include: Fiat Scudo Ford Connect Ford Econoline Ford Transit (MWB) Ram ProMaster City VW Caddy VW California Maxi-roof and long wheelbase vans Maxi-roof and long/extra-long wheelbase vans cover most of the larger Class B panel-van conversions that you will have come across on your favorite van life Instagram channels. They’re the base vehicle type for many conversion companies across the world and are solid foundations for DIY camper conversions. These vans might be harder to park and tougher to take down those windy country lanes, but they are certainly better suited for full-time living than smaller vans that are designed for stealth camping or compact living. Larger vans like these are easier to cook in too; having that extra height to stand up in makes cooking more labor-intensive meals like roast dinners, risottos, and even dishes like sushi much easier. What’s more, you have more space to include an oven as well as a gas burner. For me, having the option of creating multiple “rooms” inside your van certainly helps it to feel more homey. By creating a bedroom nook, a seating area, and a separate kitchen space, a small vehicle can suddenly feel like three self-contained areas, which is perfect if you’re traveling with a partner or family members and want to have time to yourself. Some classic examples of vans in this range include: Fiat Ducato Ford Transit (LWB) Mercedes-Benz Sprinter Peugeot Boxer Ram ProMaster Vauxhall Movano VW Crafter What size is best? If you’re planning on living in a van for a long period of time, go for a Mercedes-Benz Sprinter or a Ford Transit LWB. They’re reliable, spare/repair parts are available all over the world, and they’re big enough to live in comfortably without having that extra space the ELWB models provide. For me, having everything set up and ready to go at the drop of a hat is super important. If you’re just looking for something for day trips that you don’t mind not being able to stand up in, then choose a VW Caddy. Again, VWs are reliable vehicles, and with a clever design plan, you can easily make a pull-out kitchen that slots away neatly and carry a portable shower pack around for longer trips away.

Article / Updated 04-14-2022

Although an RV campter usually comes fully furnished and ready to go from the manufacturer, you’ll probably want to pick up a few practical tools and gadgets. You can usually find these items at camping-supply stores or sometimes at the small convenience stores at campgrounds. Marching into a specialty store and buying only what’s on the shopping list can be difficult. As you look around, murmuring “Gee, look at that!” or “I didn’t know there was an item like this,” you start dropping objects into your shopping cart — thinking you must have them. Picking up a basic hand-tools kit and an inexpensive auto-tool kit is a practical way to start. Small jobs can be done easily with the right tools. Most RVs arrive with a short sewer hose and sometimes (but not always) a water hose. The first time you hook up, you’ll notice that both are too short to be useful in many campgrounds, so the next items on your shopping list are new, longer sewer and water hoses. Look for a 15- to 20-foot sewer hose made up of smaller sections that twist-lock together and a threaded coupling device that enables you to secure the hose to the campground’s sewer connection. You want a 25- to 50-foot labeled for potable-water hose, that is approved for drinking water use. Don’t use a hose that’s intended for watering the garden or washing the car. Consider using a water-pressure regulator to protect interior pipes. If you have a big, new motor home with plenty of air conditioning, your ideal electrical hookup is 50 amps, but many older campgrounds offer nothing higher than 30 amps, and some state parks only have a maximum of 20 amps. You’ll have a clue right away at the campsite if your plug doesn’t fit the receptacle in the electrical box. What you want are adapters that convert 50-amp to 30-amp service and 30-amp to 20-amp service. To use a 20-amp outlet with your 50-amp system, plug the 50-to-30-amp connector into your main electric shore line, plug the 30-to-20-amp connector into the 50-to-30-amp connector, and then plug everything into the 20-amp outlet — or just look for a 50-amp to 20-amp connector. When you use an adapter, you can no longer run all your electrical appliances, so load management is a must. Many modern motor homes are equipped with an automatic energy management system that dumps loads for you when you’re running on 20- or 30-amp service. At the campsite, you want your RV to be level for sleeping comfort and for keeping the refrigerator level — a must. Although many new motor homes come equipped with automatic hydraulic levelers installed under the body, older RVs may require the use of manual levelers, which can be anything from a couple of pieces of board for each tire to a commercially produced wood or plastic device. Make sure to evaluate a leveler carefully before buying it. Some of the plastic ones may not hold the weight of your RV; some stack-up versions are hard to maneuver the vehicle across. A spirit level (one of those little things with moving bubbles inside) laid on a countertop inside the RV lets you see how level the RV is at the campsite. For TV lovers, a 50-foot length of antenna cable with male connectors on each end keeps everyone happy when the campground offers cable TV hookup. Also bring a female/male adapter because some campgrounds are so equipped. In your cabinets, shelf liner in a ridged pattern helps keep items from sliding while the vehicle is moving; match the color to your countertop or wood tone, if you want. Tension rods of various lengths are useful for installing across your refrigerator or cabinet shelves to keep the items contained within from shifting. I find bubble packaging (an item that I usually get free in shipping boxes) to be a godsend for packing glassware and dishes. Finally, two all-purpose items are a heavy-duty extension cord for outdoor use and duct tape, the wide silver-backed tape (called gaffer’s tape in the film industry) that can hold just about anything together until you can get to a repair shop. On my first RV trip, I carelessly left a roof vent open while picnicking near a Colorado lake during a heavy wind. I even wondered about a white plastic object that I saw cartwheeling down the hill . . . until a rain shower came up and rain started coming in. A hasty retrieval of the plastic vent cover, a trip up the back ladder to the roof of the RV, and most of a roll of duct tape repaired the damage and kept out the rain. How to furnish your RV Manufacturers furnish the typical Type A or Type C motor home at the factory with these built-in features: a kitchen counter and cabinets; a cooktop (with or without gas oven); a refrigerator/freezer; a dinette or free-standing table and chairs; a sofa or easy chair; a double or queen-size bed or short king; wardrobe and drawer storage; a bathroom with toilet, sink, and shower; air conditioning; a furnace; a TV set; and a microwave or combination convection/microwave oven. Some new motorhomes are all electric on the appliances. The driver and front passenger seats (pilot and co-pilot seats) often swivel to face the living area, adding two more comfortable seats to the arrangement. Depending on the vehicle size and the manufacturer, if you order a new RV it may be optioned to include swivel and/or reclining chair, an oven, a microwave or convection oven, a second TV set in the bedroom, a shallow tub with shower head above, a washer/dryer combination, an icemaker, a pullout pantry with wire or wooden shelving, a desk/dressing table combination in the bedroom, and a pull-up table adjacent to the sofa or swivel chair adding uses to the living space. Travel trailers and fifth-wheels contain all these items except the driver and navigator chairs. RV floor plans vary regarding the arrangement of living spaces and the amount of storage available. The clever design of RV interiors incorporates more furnishings than you’d expect, though you may want to add decorations. I like to add flowers and pots of herbs for color, small rugs on top of carpeting or wood floors, colored baskets for decoration and storage in the kitchen/dining area, and additional cushions for color and comfort on the sofa and the bed. In built-in niches around the cabinets, I added handmade wooden carvings to decorate the wood cupboards I picked up on my travels and used glue to affix them permanently; they look factory installed. Books and magazines brighten a tabletop and offer a diversion to occasional bad weather, but you will want to stow them (and any plants or cut flowers) safely before hitting the road.

Cheat Sheet / Updated 08-30-2021

Like any endeavor, camping is more enjoyable with a little preparation, so assembling and packing the equipment you need is your first order of business. If you’re tent camping, it pays to heed certain rules — you don’t want to share your snacks with the wildlife, do you? And what’s camping without a campfire? Knowing how to get a campfire started is a welcome skill to have.

Article / Updated 02-12-2020

Okay, take a deep breath. Get ready to check into an RV campground and spend your first night on the road. If you’re worried about whether you can handle it, don’t fret. How to choose a site When I started RVing, I wanted only model sites, secluded from other campers, surrounded by shade trees, preferably at the end of a row facing a view. The site had to be level — you’d be surprised how few sites outside paved parking-lot campgrounds are really level — with a nice picnic table and fire pit or barbecue. These characteristics still are ideals to aspire to, but I had to get real. If mine was the last RV to pull into the only campground with a vacancy sign at Mount Rushmore National Memorial at twilight on Fourth of July weekend, I took what was left and appreciated the fact that I found a spot. When site selection is abundant, I have a long list of preferences: Large: The site must be big enough to park (and drive through or back in) my 36-foot motor home and still have space for slideouts (portions of the living and/or bedroom walls that open to expand the interior), chairs, table, and charcoal grill, as well as the 16 feet needed for my towed car. Room: The width of a site becomes more important now that so many RVs of all types offer one or more slideouts. Some older campgrounds can’t handle slideouts and say so in their directory listings; others have room for slideouts but no leftover space for you to use as a recreational area. Any campsite less than 15 feet wide limits comfortable use of the site for longer than overnight. Length: The umbilical cords from the vehicle to the electric, water, and sewer connections must reach comfortably. Consider carrying extensions on board to alleviate this issue. Level: Whenever you don’t have a big new RV with hydraulic/electric jacks that level automatically, you have to do plenty of running back and forth inside and outside the vehicle to check spirit levels (those little things with moving bubbles inside). Sometimes, you have to wedge wooden blocks under the tires until that pesky little bubble hits the center. Sometimes, close is close enough if you do not want to buy or use leveling jacks. Location: I want to be away from the highway and campground entrance, and not too near the swimming pool, bathing facilities, office, laundry, dumpster, playground, or dog-walking area. Lookout: Watch for potentially noisy neighbors, any low-hanging branches or wires that can damage roof air conditioners or TV antennas, and wet or marshy ground that can mire you down if it rains all night. In addition, always check the location of trees that can block opening slideouts or awnings, or interfere with reception if you have a satellite TV. A campsite may or may not contain a picnic table, grill, or fire ring (a fire pit encircled by rocks) — critical amenities for tent campers but luxuries for RVers, who already have tables, chairs, and cooktops inside their vehicles. If you’re going to stay in one campground for a while, look for an end site with hookups on the left side of the site so that your door, folding chairs, and picnic table can face open space and perhaps even a view rather than the RV next door and its hookups. If you have no choice but to make your rig the filling in an RV sandwich, consider this: Unlike tent camping, in which campers spend all their waking hours outdoors, RVs (especially motor homes and trailers) enable you to go indoors for privacy. Even when you’re parked only a foot or two away from the neighboring RV, you can close your curtains, draw the shades around your windshield, and turn on some soft music, and you’re totally alone. Park your rig Choosing the spot to park your RV overnight requires looking for the most level area and lining up the hookups in your RV with the connections on the site. If you have a back-in site, ask your copilot (if you have one) to get out and help back you in. If you have a pull-through, pull into the center of the site. In either case, make sure to leave room for the opening of slideouts and awnings. Your exact position, however, depends on your hookups, which are accessible from the left rear of the RV. The electrical connection usually is a metal box mounted on a small post, with the water connection on the same post or nearby and the sewer connection somewhere in the general vicinity. You may have to get out of the vehicle to pinpoint the sewer connection, because it’s usually a small hole in the ground covered with a white plastic cap that may or may not have a cemented collar around it. Occasionally, in older campgrounds, you may find side-by-side connections that allow two campsites to share basic connections, with two water faucets, two electrical connections, and two sewer holes in the same area. Because most RVs hook up from their left rear, you and the neighboring RV would park facing in opposite directions. After you’re in the position you want, level the vehicle by using your built-in leveling system or drive up on blocks under the tires to achieve a level state. This practice is essential not only for your comfort and convenience, but also for the proper functioning of equipment such as the refrigerator. Hook your RV camper up First-time RVers and sometimes old hands may have some fears about the process of hooking up in a campground, but after a few times, you settle into a routine like this: Park and level your vehicle, and hook up. You want a pair of work gloves and, for the sewer connections, disposable gloves. Here’s a blow-by-blow account of what to do: 1. With clean hands or sterile gloves, connect your RV’s water hose (which is connected to your water intake) to the campground faucet. Using a water-pressure regulator attached to one end of the hose is wise, because many campgrounds have strong water pressure. I carry a small pair of channel lock pliers just large enough to tighten the hose connections, as well as a supply of hose gaskets, which collapse with use and can cause leaks at the faucet or the street connection on the RV. 2. Plug your electrical shore cord into the campground outlet, which is in a metal box affixed to a post and usually located at the left rear of the site. Your RV’s shore power cord is the external electrical cord that connects the vehicle to a campground electrical hookup. Inside the box, you may have several connector choices, which can be 20, 30, or 50 amps. Each amp rating has a unique connection. Most outlets have an on/off switch or circuit breaker that you need to turn to the off position before plugging or unplugging your line. Turning the switch off prevents a surge that can knock out a circuit breaker in the vehicle. If your shore power cord fits into one of the outlets, you won’t need to use an adapter. If the shore cord doesn’t fit, you need the proper adapter for your unit. You’ll soon learn to recognize the amperage of each rated outlet by sight. 3. After you’re plugged in properly, turn on the switch or circuit breaker on the pedestal that powers the campground’s outlet. A good check of electrical service is the timer light on your microwave, which lights up and perhaps starts blinking if you have electricity. 4. If you have an automatic switchover from propane to electric on your refrigerator (as most RVs do), check the indicator lights on the refrigerator control panel to make sure that the refrigerator has set to AC electric. Some models have a toggle button labeled Auto that handles this task for you when it’s switched on. At this point, your electricity is connected and should be working properly. Next comes the part that most novice RVers dread, although it’s as simple as the other two connections. 5. Connect your sewer hose to your RV drain outlet and to the campground sewer pipe. Connect the sewer hose to the drain first; then bring up to the RV. Many campgrounds have threaded connection for an elbow that’s part of your sewer-hose assembly. Insert the elbow and turn it into the drain at least one full turn. Check for a secure connection before hooking up to the RV. The hose connections to the RV and extension hoses are twist-lock connectors. Drain any fluid stored in the tanks when you hook up, rather than the next morning, when you’re in a hurry to get rolling. (If you stay for several days, drain the sewer tank when you hook up and again when you unhook) Drain the black-water tank first, close that valve (it’s labeled), and then open the gray-water valve. This procedure helps you flush the hose while emptying the tank. You can leave the gray-water valve open while camping, but you shouldn’t leave the black-water valve open unless you’re on a level site and the RV is level, because solids that settle in the tank are hard to clean out. You’re finished: Wash your hands, and relax with a cold drink. Campground etiquette In the RVing magazines, a proportion of the letters deal with other campers who failed to show proper etiquette in a campground. Inconsiderate behavior ranges from failing to clean up after your pet to running your generator after hours. To avoid becoming the subject of one of these letters, here are some good rules to follow: Avoid claim-jumping. Anything that marks a campsite, from a jug of water on a table to a folding chair set out in the parking space, means that the site is occupied and that the campers are away in their car or RV. You may not set the marker aside and move into the site. Mind your fellow campers’ personal space. Teach your kids never to take a shortcut across an occupied campsite; they should use the road or established pathways to get where they’re going. No one wants to watch a parade of kids and dogs troop through his or her site. Keep your pets from roaming. Do not let your dog roam free in a campground. Pets should always be on a leash outside the RV and exercised in a designated pet area. Avoid using your generator whenever possible, even within designated generator-use hours, to keep the noise and fumes from disturbing other campers. If using electrical appliances such as microwaves and TVs is that important, you should consider staying in a private campground with hookups, where you won’t need a generator. Avoid loud, prolonged engine revving in the early morning and late evening. Fumes from your engine drift into the open windows of a nearby RV, and the noise can wake someone who wanted to sleep in. Don’t play radios or TVs loudly at any time in a campground. Many of your fellow campers are there to enjoy the peace and quiet. Also, Never, ever dump wastewater from holding tanks — even gray water— on the ground. Although some people claim that it’s good for the grass, wastewater may contain fecal matter from diapers or salmonella bacteria if raw meat has been rinsed in the sink. This material can be transferred to anyone who touches or steps on contaminated ground. Gray or black water belongs only in a dump station or sanitary-sewer system. Don’t cut trees for firewood. Most campgrounds sell firewood at stands or the camp store. Even picking up or chopping deadwood is forbidden in many parks. Watch what you throw in the fire. Never leave aluminum foil, aluminum cans, bottles, or filter-tipped cigarette butts in a campground fire ring or grill to make litter. Also, never crush out cigarettes on the ground without picking up the butts and putting them in the garbage. Don’t leave porch or entry lights on all night in camp. The lights may shine in someone else’s bedroom window.