Birds Articles

Article / Updated 03-22-2023

Tornado, earthquake, hurricane, fire, flood — if you were faced with any of these and had to leave your home, would you know how to help your bird? Disaster-planning experts advise you to take your pets with you when told to evacuate, but that plan isn’t as easy as it sounds. Sandwiched between the idea of taking your pets with you and the reality of accomplishing a safe evacuation is a lot of thought and planning. To help you prepare for all sorts of unplanned events, this article walks you through the process of being ready for the worst — and hoping for the best. The good news: When it comes to disasters and pets, consideration for preparedness has changed a great deal in recent years — all for the better. Once left to their own survival instincts in times of calamity, animals today are the focus of a lot of planning, with organizations in place to complement those caring for human victims. In fact, a model program started by the California Veterinary Medical Association positions a veterinarian in each county to help coordinate animal relief efforts. Other states are starting to see the light, too, with veterinarians, shelter groups, and specially trained disaster teams from the Sacramento, California–based United Animal Nations Emergency Animal Response Service prepared to do for animals what the Red Cross does for people — on an international basis! These positive developments are the result of a growing realization that animals need help, too, and that some people choose to put their lives in danger rather than abandon their pets. Despite all of this progress, your bird’s chances of surviving any kind of crisis still depend mostly on you. Don’t put off preparing for the unexpected. No one likes to think about the possibility of catastrophe, but your pets are counting on you. Consider the possibilities Disaster preparedness starts with a simple question: What if? Ask yourself that question, and then consider not only the kind of crisis you’re most likely to face, but also special challenges such as your being away from home when disaster strikes. People need to rely on each other during emergencies, and this fact is just as true when it comes to your pets. Get to know your neighbors and talk about how you might help each other out. Find out from local shelters and veterinary organizations what their emergency response plans are. Veterinary connections can be tricky for bird owners. Because you need someone experienced in avian care, your veterinarian may not be located anywhere near you. Brian’s clients, in fact, come to him from all over Northern California, and some drive for hours to bring their birds to him. In a disaster, you may not have the luxury of relying on a veterinarian who’s nearby. Make sure you’re familiar with nearby veterinary hospitals, especially those offering round-the-clock and emergency care. Keep a current list of local veterinarians willing and able to provide care or board your birds in an emergency situation. Know who’s agreeable to consulting with your regular veterinarian by telephone or online, if needed, to coordinate and possibly enhance the level of care your birds receive. Make note, too, of shops with a special interest in or focus on birds, particularly those that board birds. A crisis isn’t always a community-wide event. When considering your options, think about what would happen if you were suddenly injured or hospitalized from a car accident, say, or a heart attack or stroke. Make a contact list All you really need is a sheet of paper or two, slipped into a plastic page protector you can pick up at any office-supply store. Handwrite the info or print it out from your home computer. (If you keep the master list on your computer, you can update it easily and print out a current version every so often. Beats cross-outs and erasures!) Your wisest move is to have a list of emergency contacts to cover everything for you and your family, including your pet bird(s). List the name, location, and phone number of your regular veterinarian, and then the same information for nearby backup hospitals and emergency clinics. Same goes for local humane societies and animal-control shelters, animal groups, and bird shops. Include friends and neighbors, as well as your local office of emergency services. The final step: Put the list where you know you can find it (attach it to the refrigerator with a magnet, for instance). Better yet, make a few copies — one for the house, one for the car, one for work, and so on. You can also keep this information on your phone, but having a hard copy is wise in case your battery dies. Make sure your bird carries ID Many birds survive disasters, but too many will never see their families again unless there’s a way to determine their identity and family connections. Although you may be lucky enough to avoid being separated from your bird, you need to be ready for that possibility. One way to contribute to a continued connection is to ensure your bird has identification. Your bird may have a leg band already. If so, be sure to note the identifying letters and numbers. Whether your bird is banded or not, we highly recommend you have your bird microchipped. This simple procedure provides permanent identification for your beloved companion. Make and trade bird-care files Prepare a couple of files with up-to-date veterinary records, your bird’s microchip or leg band numbers, your veterinarian’s phone number and address, feeding and medication instructions, recent pictures of your bird, and written descriptions noting any unique markings or other physical details. Talk to other animal-loving friends, ask them to do the same for their pets, and then trade files. The more people who know about your bird and how to care for him, the better. Collect food and supplies At the top of the list of disaster gear is a travel cage or carrier for any bird whose regular lodgings aren’t portable — anything bigger than a finch or budgie, in most cases. You probably already make use of a travel cage or carrier for trips to your veterinarian or for any other travel outside the home. The key, in a time of crisis, is to make sure you know where the cage is and how you can get to it easily — an emergency isn’t the time to look for a ladder or dig through junk in the basement or attic. Before an emergency strikes, make sure you can get your bird to enter the cage without a great deal of effort on your part or trauma to your bird. Also keep a few days’ supply of food on hand, along with bottled water. Our recommendation for a pelleted diet lends itself well to feeding your bird on the run. Pack some of your bird’s favorite dried fruits, nuts, and seeds, too. Don’t forget to rotate disaster supplies on a regular basis, so they’re always fresh. Include any medication your bird takes regularly. Get an extra supply of maintenance medication and put it in rotation — use it after your current medication runs out, and put the refill in the disaster kit. That way, your “disaster” medicine is always current. And finally: Toys! Your bird will need to take out her stress on something, and better it be toys than you or her own body. Keep a first-aid kit fully stocked Every bird-lover needs basic first-aid supplies packed into a neat, portable kit. Make sure the kit includes scissors, cloth towels, and paper towels. Don’t forget styptic powder for cauterizing bleeding nails or beak tips, if needed. If your kit doesn’t have a first-aid booklet, tuck one inside. Consider keeping two kits — one for home, and one for the car. It’s also a good idea to take a pet first-aid course so you’ll feel confident in the event of an emergency. One of the problems with first-aid kits is that you’re always picking at them in everyday life — a little ointment here, some gauze there, and where did the scissors go? Be sure to promptly replace any supplies you use. Otherwise, when you really need your kit, the cupboard may be bare. Plan, plan, plan, and practice With your research done and your supplies assembled, the next logical step is a real plan for what to do “in case.” Design strategies for what to do if you’re home, or if you’re at work, and make sure everyone in the family knows about them — children included! Rehearsals are a great idea. If you’ve been through something once or twice, the act has a better chance of becoming second nature — get the travel cage, get the bird, get the supplies, get everything in the car, and let’s go! A dry run can also point out any problems with your plan, which you can then remedy. Keep your bird secure — and separate Disasters can bring out the best in people and pets — but they can also bring out the worst. Your bird is bound to be scared, stressed, and disoriented, and he’s likely to feed off your uncertainty as well. Keep your bird secure in his travel cage, and keep handling to a minimum. Be alert to your bird’s body language — even sweet-natured pets may strike out in fear. Try to maintain as regular a schedule as possible, feeding at normal times if you can. To help your bird maintain his good health, keep him away from other pets if at all possible, especially other birds who may be carrying heaven-knows-what diseases. Keep a “lost bird” kit ready The onset or aftermath of a disaster isn’t the best time to get flyers printed up, so make up some generic ones and keep them with your emergency supplies. In the biggest type size you can manage, center the words LOST BIRD, along with a clear picture of your feathered friend. Beneath that, include a description of your bird, including identifying marks or colors, and a space to add the phone number where you can be reached, as well as backup contacts, friends, relatives, neighbors, or your veterinarian. Print up a hundred copies and keep them in a safe, dry, and accessible place. A staple gun enables you to post your notices; keep one loaded and tucked in with a supply of thumbtacks and electrical tape. If your bird becomes lost, post flyers in your neighborhood and beyond, as well as distributing them at veterinary hospitals and shelters. Relying on the kindness of strangers is nice, but offering a reward may inspire some folks to be just a little bit kinder. Be prepared to help others You may survive a disaster nearly untouched, but others in your community may not be so fortunate. Contact your local humane society and veterinary organization now to train as a volunteer so you can help out in an emergency. Disaster-relief workers do everything from distributing food to stranded animals to helping reunite pets with their families — and helping find new homes for those who need them. Not only is volunteering a good thing to do, but it’s also the right thing for anyone who cares about animals and people.

Cheat Sheet / Updated 04-08-2022

Cockatiels, those small, colorful members of the parrot family, can be excellent pets. They’re generally friendly, inquisitive, and charming. If you choose to include a cockatiel in your family, you want to keep your bird safe from toxic substances and plants and provide ongoing care for your feathered friend, especially in the wing and toenail departments.

Cheat Sheet / Updated 03-08-2022

Parakeets are engaging and intelligent birds, which probably explains the many websites devoted to them and their interests. These birds need protection from some common household items and natural predators, and if your parrot and your child share a house, you need to teach your child how to make friends with your parrot. You should also learn what to do in emergency situations, such as when your parakeet needs first aid, or when she has lain eggs or flown away.

Cheat Sheet / Updated 09-20-2021

After you've decided on finches as companions, discover how to get them to bathe for their health and well-being. Learn how to sprout nutritious seeds for your finches and how to assemble an avian-focused first aid kit in case of emergencies. Photo by David Clode on Unsplash

Article / Updated 05-19-2021

Keeping a parrot safe and healthy can be a full-time job. It’s a good idea to teach (or socialize, more accurately) your parrot to understand or get used to things that can save their life someday. Here are 10 things that all parrots should know. The step-up command All parrots should know the Step-Up directive. In short, when you say, “step up” and present your hand or finger, your parrot should become conditioned to put their little foot in the air and step onto your hand. Some parrots become so used to this directive that they’ll lift a foot if they hear “Step up” from across the room. Some parrots will even say “Step up” and lift a foot when they want your attention. If your bird doesn’t know how to step onto your hand, removing them from a dangerous situation or retrieving them from somewhere they're not supposed to be will be more difficult. If they fly away, you have a better shot at getting them back if they know that an extended finger or hand means “Step up” and that it’s always safe to do so. Even a stranger will be able to retrieve your bird if they're not hand-shy. Stick training After teaching the Step-Up command onto the hand, all parrots should be taught to step up onto handheld perches and sticks of various lengths and diameters. This is useful for handling unpredictable parrots or those that like to get themselves out of easy reach, such as on top of the curtain rods. Their carrier Every parrot should be familiar with a safe bird carrier that is designated specifically for that individual bird. If you have the opportunity, start desensitizing the bird to the carrier when they are young. Allow the carrier to remain in sight of the bird, and play with them on and around the carrier, offering food on top of it. Place the bird inside the carrier with their breakfast or dinner. Don’t close the door. You’re just giving the parrot the idea that the carrier is something fun and not something scary. You’ll be glad you did this when it’s time to go to the veterinarian, while traveling, or when there’s an emergency. Socializing the carrier to an older parrot is a little tougher, but not impossible. Use this same method. Realize that springing the carrier on any bird is scary. You have to let the bird see it and live with it for a while in their nearby environment. That way, at least the carrier will be a familiar object when it’s time to travel or to evacuate in an emergency. Identify windows and mirrors Windows and mirrors can be deadly for fully flighted parrots. They don’t understand that the windows and mirrors are solid; instead, they see them as more free space in which to fly. Even clipped parrots that can fly a little are in danger of injuring a beak or neck by landing hard against a sliding glass door or full-length mirror. Walk your parrot around to all the windows and mirrors, and tap on them with your fingernail, allowing the bird to get very close and tap on them with their beak. Doing this a few times with larger parrots should be sufficient. Smaller parrots may learn by trial and error (and hopefully won’t get hurt doing it). All parrots will eventually learn the landscape of the home. Your best bet is to allow your mirrors and windows to become dirty, or to place stickers on them so that the bird can see the difference between the glass and what’s behind it. Say their name and phone number If you have a talking species, it’s not a bad idea to teach the bird your last name and phone number, maybe even an email address if your bird is a very good talker. Some birds will even learn their home addresses. Just repeat the information over and over. Creating a catchy song is a great way to teach this information, too. If the bird ever flies away or gets stolen, whoever finds it (or buys it) will know whom to call to return it. But you don’t necessarily have to teach your parrot their name and number for them to come back home safely to you. Your avian veterinarian can insert a small microchip into your bird’s breast muscle that contains a unique number, which you then register with the chip company. Most shelters and veterinarians own a scanner that reads these chips. When your bird is found, they can be easily returned to you if the information you provide the chip manufacturer is up to date. Recognize their cage as a safety zone A parrot should feel that their cage is a safe place where they can sleep and eat in peace. Don’t change the cage around too much once the bird is settled. Leave the perches and toys as they are. You can rotate toys in and out of the cage, but try to keep them in the same basic location. Don’t move the cage around a lot. After the parrot gets established in one room in one spot, try to leave them there. If you absolutely have to move the cage, that’s fine, but don’t do it capriciously. Try not to place scary things near the cage. Parrots are often scared of things you wouldn’t even think twice about, like weird pieces of art, balloons, and large, loud electronic equipment. If the bird doesn’t want to come out of the cage for whatever reason, and you’re sticking your hand in there only to bring them out to play, leave them alone and try again later. Don’t force or fish them out unless you’re taking them somewhere important. If they're on top of the cage, you can persist a little more, but if they're in the cage, allow them to have their space. The only exception to this is when a bird becomes territorial around the cage. Know how to take medicine If you have the time and the patience, try to get your parrot to take a few drops of baby food, coconut milk, or juice from a plastic eyedropper, pipette, or small plastic syringe. You are not going to be handfeeding the bird or even simulating handfeeding. This can cause behavior problems in a weaned bird of any age. What you’re trying to do is to get the bird to take a little bit of what you’re offering out of the dropper. Make it fun. Eventually, if you ever have to give medicine or vitamins to your parrot, you’ll be glad that they like to nibble out of the dropper. Another way to administer medicine is on a small square of moist pound cake. Offer pound cake once a week, toasted if your bird is fussy. Getting them used to this tasty treat will make giving their meds or liquid and powdered vitamins so much easier. Be able to trust you You are your bird’s best and closest ally, but you’re not much good to them if they don't trust you. A hands-on avian pal must come to understand that you’re on their side and that you mean only to provide for them and keep them safe and loved. Sure, they may give you a nicely placed nip (or full-on bite) now and again. If you react with anger, you reinforce the bite and begin to chip away at the bond you’ve built. Build trust by being consistent. Birds thrive on routine and reliability. If you behave erratically and send your bird mixed messages, she’ll learn to become suspicious and fearful. Be calm, gentle, and loving, and view your bird as an individual with individual likes and needs. If you understand that you’re in a real relationship with your parrot, you can treat them as a whole being, not just as decoration for the living room. Eat well All parrots should be exposed to various foods. If you wait too late to offer a variety of healthful foods, your bird may not understand that certain objects are actually food and may ignore them. It’s much easier to get a bird to eat well while she’s a youngster. However, a lot of older parrots do take to new things with the verve of a fledgling. The word “no!” Unlike dogs, parrots will never truly understand the word no. However, parrots, like dogs, are mischievous and do get themselves into things they shouldn’t. Life in the average home is full of interesting and dangerous distractions. A very sharp “No!” does get a parrot’s attention. Once you have that, you can stop the bird from doing a behavior by removing them from the situation. Using a sharp “No!” doesn’t work for chronic behaviors, such as plucking or screaming. Using no is better than using stop it!, which may sound like step up to parrot ears. No is also preferable to shouting your bird’s name. Always use the bird’s name associated with positive things and praise, never as a reprimand.

Article / Updated 05-19-2021

Adoption is a fantastic way to acquire your bird. In fact, lots of wonderful birds end up in rescue, maybe because their guardian died or someone in the home became allergic to feather dander. Sometimes a person simply gets too many birds and needs to thin the flock because of a move or lifestyle shift. Sometimes a person’s new spouse, partner, or baby can’t tolerate the bird for whatever reason. Even a hand-fed and super tame bird can become a problem as someone’s life circumstances change. Not all rescue birds have issues. A parrot rescue organization doesn’t give away birds for free. You’ll have to pay an adoption fee that covers your new bird’s past medical care, housing, and feeding. Rescue isn’t the place to get an inexpensive bird, although a bird from a rescue will come with its own cage and supplies, which is helpful. Is it easier to buy a bird? Yes. But you may find it more fulfilling to adopt one instead. When you adopt a bird, you free up the space for another bird to go into rescue. Some rescue operations have a waiting list of up to a year before they can take in a bird. You may have to wait a while to adopt a parrot if you’re looking for a particular species, but just have some patience, as most of the more common species do come up for adoption frequently. Identify which birds are available for adoption If you’re considering adopting a parrot, investigate the array of birds available. Although a parrot of any species, size, and age can find itself homeless, larger cockatoos, Amazons (shown), and macaws are often abandoned to sanctuaries. As parrots mature, they can get noisy and destructive and may turn into chronic pluckers or biters if they don’t have the proper housing, nutrition, and social contact, and some people aren’t prepared to deal with any of that behavior. Secondhand birds can become loving, joyous companions when they’re allowed to be themselves and blossom into the parrots they were meant to be. You can find just about every species of parrot in rescue, from the tiny parrotlet to the huge umbrella cockatoo, and everything in between. One great reason to adopt from a rescue is that you can be sure that your new bird has seen a veterinarian and has been given a clean bill of health; if they haven't, you’ll be made aware of any health issues. You may not get this assurance from a pet store or breeder, so ask if you’re prospective parrot has had a veterinary check or vaccinations. Local rescues are overflowing with parrots. You can be a real hero to a bird that just wants a comfortable place to live and someone to love. Look online for bird rescues in your area because many bird rescues aren’t in one place. They often have a network of foster families who temporarily take in birds, so you may have to chat with several people to find the right bird for you. You may also have to wait a while and check in with the rescue often. Because parrots can be so long-lived when cared for properly, adopting a 10-year-old or even a 20-year-old bird is still like adopting a youngster. Don’t let a bird’s age deter you. Complete the rescue application Any good rescue will want to know all about your home and lifestyle before letting you adopt a bird. You may need to take an online tutorial, watch some videos, or even attend a bird care class along with your adoption application. Here are some questions that may be on the application: Are you 18 (or 21) or older? Why do you want a bird? Do you own or rent your home? If you rent, will your landlord allow you to have a bird? Who is going to be the bird’s primary caretaker? How many hours a day will the bird be alone? Does anyone in the house smoke? Do you use nonstick cookware? Does anyone in the household have asthma or allergies? Are there small children in the household? Does everyone in the home want the bird? Do you have any past experience with birds? Do you have an avian veterinarian? What will happen to the bird if you’re unable to care for it? Are you aware that birds make noise, are messy, and can bite? Where will the bird live? Do you have any other pets, like cats, dogs, snakes, or fish? Are your other pets up to date on their vaccinations? Many rescues won’t adopt to someone out of state, so don’t bother looking too far afield. Some rescues will adopt regionally. Most rescues won’t ship birds, so be prepared to pick up the bird yourself. Be prepared for the rescue home visit If you pass the application process, the rescue will schedule a home visit. The whole process may take a few weeks. The person visiting is often a volunteer who is taking time out of their day to meet with you to see where the bird will live and to evaluate your ability to care for a parrot. The evaluator may consider some of the following: Do you seem knowledgeable about bird guardianship or are you willing to learn? Do you have screens on your windows? Are there any easy escape routes? Do you have other animals that can harm the bird? Are there close neighbors who will be annoyed with the parrot’s noise? Is your home tidy? Do you have plants in the home that are toxic to parrots? How long will it take from your home to the nearest emergency avian veterinarian? Do your other pets seem well cared for? Is there a lot of alcohol around and/or drug paraphernalia? Does the home smell of cigarettes or other smoke? If you pass the home visit, most rescues will allow you to foster the bird for a few months, giving you both the time to get to know each other to see if it’s a good fit. If not, the rescue will take the bird back. Don’t feel bad if it doesn’t work out the first time. Rescues want to make sure that you and your bird are going to be a long-term match, and they understand that not all birds will be suitable in all homes. If you get chosen as an adopter, the rescue will likely ask you to sign a contract that states how you’ll care for the bird. Most rescues will take the bird back if for any reason you no longer want the bird. You may be fined if you re-home the bird yourself.

Article / Updated 05-19-2021

Parrots are long-lived animals. Even a bird with a shorter lifespan, such as a budgie or a lovebird, can be a child’s companion from kindergarten to college. With that in mind, don’t choose a bird while standing in the pet store admiring that big macaw or a bouncy caique. Instead, consider the following when picking a parrot. Parrots are individuals You can learn the general qualities of different species, but there will always be individual parrots that don’t conform to these characteristics. You can choose a parrot based on species, but you really have to spend a little time with an individual bird to know his habits, temperament, and companionability. For example, Amazons are known to be feisty and aggressive, but some Amazons wouldn’t bite anyone. African greys are known for their talking ability, though some don’t talk much at all, preferring to whistle and mimic household sounds. The chemistry between the two of you Not every person is going to get along with every parrot. You’ll find that you have a rapport with some parrots but not with others, even within the same species. The only way to find out if you have chemistry is to spend some time with several birds, the way you would with puppies—or other people, for that matter. Also consider that some species tend to be one-person birds rather than family birds, wanting to bond with just one person in the household, and that person may not end up being you, even if you’re the person who brought the bird home. Not all species are created equal The reason why you can’t just walk into the pet shop and choose the prettiest parrot is that each species has different needs and behaves in a unique manner. You have to know what you’re getting into before you think about taking a bird home. For example: Poicephalus parrots like a dark area inside their housing where they can retreat from commotion. Amazons, conures, and macaws need a lot of chewing material, especially wood and paper. Cockatiels and budgies are lighter birds and need a more extensive wing clip than other birds. Caiques tend to be beaky birds who use their hard beaks to explore the world, which can include a guardian’s fingers. Cockatoos need lots of preening toys and rope toys. Noise: deafening or extremely deafening A big reason why some parrots are re-homed is noise. Parrots are demanding and can become quite vocal about their desires. They’re also programmed to make a racket at sunup and sundown, and there’s nothing you can do about that. What you can do is choose a parrot whose volume and voice isn’t as offensive as some others. Noise is directly proportional to the size of the parrot. The smaller the bird, the smaller the noise. This doesn’t account for the amount of noise the bird creates, just the volume. The volume, or loudness, tends to go up with the number of birds as well. The amount of noise indicates the time span in which noise is made; for example, some parrots only vocalize for a couple of hours a day, but others do it nearly all day long. One cockatiel’s vocalizations may be tolerable, while a flock of them can be deafening because they’re all competing with one another to be heard. But a racket is in the ear of the hearer, isn’t it? One person’s unbearable din is another person’s sweet melody. African species tend to be a little quieter than other birds, while South American and some Australian species tend to be louder and more raucous. For example, most poicephalus species, such as Meyer’s parrots and Senegals, aren’t as persistently noisy or loud. Cockatoos, on the other hand, are ear-piercing and persistent, noise being one of the main reasons they are re-homed or given up to rescue organizations. Of course, this generalization changes with the number of birds housed together and the state in which they’re kept. Unhappy birds will often screech to get attention. Space: Bigger is better All birds need space to move around, and ideally, the space should be large enough to allow for flight. The long-tailed species, such as the keets, cockatiels, and macaws, need very large, tall housing, or their tails become ratty and they become unkempt in general. Don’t skimp on housing size for larger parrots. A cramped bird is very unhappy, and unhappy birds can develop some unfortunate habits, such as screaming, biting, and feather plucking, to mention just a few. Some parrot species are diminutive, like the parrotlet and the lovebird, but even these need large housing to receive the critical exercise they require. Lifestyles of the neat and messy All parrots are messy. They scatter seed and wet foods, poop wherever they want, and spray water all over the place when they bathe. I was once horrified to discover that millet seeds had literally begun to sprout in my carpet! Parrots shred paper and can destroy items in the house if allowed to roam. There are no species that are less messy than others. However, the smaller the bird, the easier it may be to contain the mess. Here are birds known to be particularly messy. Eclectus: This species is known for messy eating, spreading wet foods all over the walls and floor. Eclectus guardians often invest in a special acrylic cube where they offer wet foods. Lories and lorikeets: These are among the messiest of parrots. Because they eat soft and liquid food, they have soft and liquid waste, which they somehow manage to spray all over the outside of the cage. Twice-a-day cleaning, at least, is required. Lovebirds: These feisty parrots love to fling every seed out of the dish and onto the floor. They’re also notorious for shredding paper. Amazons: These destructive birds will shred and chew just about anything, making them quite a handful to clean up after. Lots of supervision is required with many of them. Quaker parrots: These lovely little birds manage to get poop well outside the cage and like to toss food around. African grey parrots, cockatoos, and cockatiels: These species in particular spread around plenty of feather dust. To combat mess, some parrot owners fight fire with fire — or, bird with bird. Some people buy small quail to keep inside or near a large aviary. Budgies and cockatiels usually get along with these little ground birds, but most other parrots won’t. Just keep an eye on the quail to make sure they aren’t being bullied and remove them if they are. From easily affordable to requiring a loan The most inexpensive parrot is the American parakeet (budgie), from $7 to $14. The most expensive parrot commonly offered for sale is the hyacinth macaw—about $10,000—and some of the rarer parrots cost even more. Somewhere in between are the rest, from the green Quaker parrot at between $100 and $200, to the Moluccan cockatoo at between $1,500 and $2,000. One thing is for sure: Parrots aren’t cheep. Of course, prices change all the time depending on availability, as with anything else. What are you prepared to spend for a parrot? Remember that no matter what you spend, the cost of veterinary and general care is the same. You’re going to spend as much money caring for a $14 budgie as you will for a $450 turquoise pied parrotlet. Talking ability Some parrots are well known for their talking ability, but others may never talk at all. Most will whistle or make other sounds common to your household. These are the most famous chatterboxes. African grey parrots Indian ringnecks Parakeets (budgies) Yellow-naped Amazons Child-friendliness There’s one irrefutable rule in the bird world: If it has a beak, it can bite. Some individual parrots may never bite anyone; some will bite every time someone is unlucky enough to come near its beak. Though some species are less likely to bite than others, parents should realize that any parrot can give a child a good nip, which can be painful and scary to younger kids. Children may not understand that a bite isn’t personal. Here are species that may make good hands-on companions for children. Budgies (parakeets) English budgies Cockatiels Pionus Rosellas Bourke’s Pyrrhura conures Though it seems logical that smaller birds would be more suitable for children, some small birds are actually pretty feisty and can be too nippy or temperamental for younger kids to handle. These include Caiques Lories Lovebirds Parrotlets Of course, you can always have a pair of parrots for a child to care for, but not handle. Parrots tend to get along best in male-female couples, but not exclusively. Budgies (also known as parakeets) and lovebirds are especially suitable if they’re a compatible pair. They’re colorful, chatty, enjoy each other’s company, and can live upwards of 15 years if cared for properly. One, two, or more Some parrots enjoy each other’s company, whereas others will fight to the death with their own or a different species. There’s no guarantee that buying two birds of the same species will result in fast friends. You may notice two parrots canoodling with each other in the same cage. This may be a true pair, a male and female who like each other. Same-sex birds can also bond and be good friends, and you won’t have to worry about babies resulting from the pairing. Just be careful about how you introduce same-sex pairs. These are the parrots most likely to be able to be peaceably housed together, given enough space, such as a very large aviary. Conures (but only with other conures) Cockatiels and budgies Hanging parrots, budgies, cockatiels But the parrots of different species most likely to become aggressive and even kill each other if housed together are the following. Caiques Cockatoos Lories Lovebirds Some macaws If you want to house birds of different species together, buy two young parrots and raise them together. You can’t always be certain that they’ll remain friends forever, but you'll have given them a good start.

Article / Updated 05-19-2021

Parrot guardianship has more surprises than you may have expected. Here are a few aspects of having a parrot that you may not have thought about before. Prepare for mess If you’re new to parrots, you may be in for quite a shock when you realize how messy they can be. The mess knows no boundaries. If you walk barefooted around your home, you may end up finding seeds and pellets in your bed. I once had millet seeds sprouting in the carpet beneath one of my birds’ cages, even though I was cleaning for two hours a day. Okay, I had more than 100 parrots at the time. Poop is also an issue. I remember a cute guy once asking me if I had a bird. I was really flattered because I thought maybe he saw me around town with one of my birds on my shoulder. I smiled and said, yes, I did have birds. Then he pointed out a squiggle of bird poop on my shirt. How embarrassing! Poop happens. Fortunately, parrots are mostly vegans, so their poop doesn’t smell. If your parrot’s poop does smell, you should visit an avian veterinarian. How to handle that mess To keep on top of the mess, keep these tips in mind: Invest in a good handheld vacuum. I have a one for small messes, but I really rely on my cordless stick vacuum. Can’t get by without it! Buy a small dustpan and handheld broom. Stash several spray bottles with cleansers all over the house. Have a designated color for alcohol, water/vinegar solution, and baking soda solution, or write on them with a permanent marker so you don’t mix them up. Cleaning bird poop from hard surfaces is very easy. If it’s wet, simply spray a little alcohol (not on your bird’s cage) or a vinegar and water solution on it from a spray bottle and clean it up with a paper towel. Cleaning fabric is a little tougher, so let the poop dry. Then you can just pick it right off. It may leave a green residue, but you can easily remove it with a cotton swab and your favorite soap or cleanser. If that fails, the residue will come off in the wash. I suggest you have a designated shirt that you wear when you play with your birds or carry a parrot around on your shoulder. Wear a used button-down flannel or cotton shirt; stop by your local thrift store to buy a few if you don’t have any. You can also buy or make a parrot clothing protector, which looks kind of like a bib or cape. A hairdresser’s cape also works, but make sure it’s not too slick for your bird to stand on. Be ready for some noise Most new parrot guardians tend to underestimate the amount of noise that their parrots will make. Even parrots that aren’t loud can be incessantly noisy. For example, macaws are extremely loud, but they don’t screech all day (under normal circumstances). Cockatiels and budgies aren’t loud, but they’re all-day chatterers and whistlers. Noise is subjective, and what annoys you may not annoy someone else. Actually the noise isn’t what tends to bother people, it’s the actual hertz frequency, which has to do with the pitch level of a noise. Some birds are lower-pitched, and some are higher. A certain pitch may bother you (or your family or neighbors) but not bother someone else. The benefit of noise The good news about noise is that after a while you stop hearing it. I can have a hundred lovebirds chirping in every direction, and I won’t really hear it. Your brain starts tuning out sounds you hear on a regular basis. This news may be great for you, but maybe it’s not so great for your friends or neighbors who aren’t used to bird sounds and may be annoyed by them. The other good news is that most bird guardians love the noise that their birds make. In fact, a quiet home may begin to seem spooky to someone who is used to hearing parrots chattering all day. Another great aspect to chattering birds is that if you notice that they’ve stopped chattering all of a sudden, you can be sure that something strange has happened; maybe they’ve seen something odd in your yard, like an animal that isn’t supposed to be there or an intruder. Always investigate if you notice that your typically noisy birds have abruptly stopped vocalizing. Also, a typically noisy bird that becomes quiet might be ill. How to deal with guilt A lot of bird guardians have bird guilt--that bad feeling when your bird is caged for too many hours a day. You feel guilty for going on vacation or leaving town for whatever reason. You regret going to happy hour after work or staying out all day and evening on a weekend. You bird is cage-bound, after all, and relies on you for everything. Let me try to alleviate your guilt a little bit. Your parrot will be fine if you miss a day taking them out of the cage for several hours. They won’t hate you, and they won’t die. If the cage is large and stocked with toys and external stimulation (television, radio, and so on), your bird won’t hate you if you miss a day of extensive handling and time out of the cage. Some guilt-ridden bird guardians set up cameras to watch their parrots. Many cameras include an app so you can talk to the bird. A camera is great for keeping an eye on your bird, but it’s not a substitute for hands-on interaction. Being able to see your bird all day doesn't relieve you of the responsibility of actually caring for your bird in person. Parrots require constant supervision Parrots are like toddlers. They’ll get into a lot of trouble if left unsupervised outside of their housing. You’d be amazed at how much mischief and destruction they can accomplish in just a few minutes! Sometimes this mischief can even be deadly for them. As a result, you should always keep an eye on your parrot when they're out of the cage, especially if you know the bird is a wanderer or will make an effort to try to find you. Nobody’s perfect. Your parrot will inevitably get into mischief, so don’t feel terrible when he does. I hope the mischief is something you can undo or something more funny than dangerous. Once I walked out of the room for just a few minutes and came back to find my blue and gold macaw on the dining room table taking a bite out of every single piece of fruit in the large fruit bowl in the middle of the table. Prepare to open your wallet Parrots are expensive. You have the expense of the parrot itself, anywhere from $14 to $14,000, and you also have the up-front costs of proper housing, toys, food, and so on. But you also have to be aware of some hidden expenses that may surprise you. For example, you may be unaware of the necessary yearly or bi-yearly veterinary visits. A healthy diet consisting of organic fruits and veggies can get expensive. A camera to watch the parrot while you’re away, a pet sitter, or the expense of taking your bird with you when you leave town can be a shock. Replacement costs can add up as well. Your parrot can wear out toys, and he may also wreck things in your home, such as curtains, carpet, flooring, wooden furniture, antiques, wallpaper, and countless other household items, that you may need to be replace. You also have to consider the expenses of upgrading supplies, such as a new, larger cage, a sleeping cage, a better carrier, nicer toys, and so on. All these expenses are worth it for the joy that a parrot brings to your life. Just make sure to dedicate a little of your paycheck each month to your bird’s well-being. Bonding pros and cons Parrots are social creatures, and you may be surprised how strongly a lone parrot bonds to you. To your bonded parrot, you hung the sun and the moon. He becomes excited and dreamy-eyed when you walk into the room. His focus is on you, and his devotion is absolute. For a parrot so smitten, your attention is critical for his well-being. Nothing’s wrong with a strong parrot-human bond. You’re buddies for life. However, if the bond becomes distorted, and the parrot begins to see you as an actual mate, it can become an issue, especially if you have a parrot with a powerful beak, like an Amazon, cockatoo or macaw, that can inflict severe bites on you or someone else if another person gets too close. You’ll know that your bond has gone a little awry when your bird regurgitates for you often and when he seems very jealous and territorial where you're concerned. How funny parrots are around mirrors You may be amused to see how many birds react to mirrors. A lot of bird guardians bring their birds into the bathroom when they’re getting ready for work or bedtime, which gives the parrot ample time to study the bird in the mirror. Some try to woo the mirror bird, which is cute, but it can be less than constructive if your bird becomes lovesick by his reflection. Some birds behave as if the reflection in the mirror is a buddy to interact with. I don’t recommend keeping a mirror inside your bird’s housing or too close by all the time because your bird may respond negatively to it. Some birds behave aggressively to the mirror bird, trying to fight with it. Unless your bird is having an aggressive response (which doesn’t happen very often), you can enjoy watching your parrot engage with his reflection sometimes. This is a great time to film your bird for his Instagram account. Recognize how smart parrots are Even if you already sense your bird is intelligent, he may be leagues more intelligent than you think. Some parrots can be taught to solve elaborate puzzles, to distinguish colors, and even to read. However, many parrots don’t even need this kind of instruction to understand how to manipulate their human or their captive environment. Search online for “Can Wild Parrots Solve Puzzles?” and prepare to be amazed. Your parrot’s intelligence may frustrate you at times. Most parrots figure out how to escape their cages, which can be stressful for you and even dangerous for your bird. Don’t worry though. This behavior is very typical. You can plan ahead with a quick link (also called a maillon, similar to a carabiner, but with a screw and threads as a closure rather than a spring) or other kinds of locks on your bird’s cage doors. I used to have one little lovebird who would easily escape his cage and then go around to the other cages in the bird room and let out the other lovebirds. I’d wake up in the morning to find dozens of escapees flying around, having the time of their lives. It took me months to discover the identity of the little jail breaker. Figure out who inherits your parrot Though the smaller parrots tend to live to be 12 to 15 years old, the larger parrots can live upwards of 50 to 80 years. If you acquire one of these long-lived birds when you’re 30, 40, 50, or older, consider that your bird might outlive you. Plan what you’ll do with your winged friend after you die or are no longer able to care for them. You may choose to include your bird in a will or an estate plan, thereby designating who will take over care of the bird. The ideal heir is a younger person, perhaps a relative, who will take on the responsibility of your parrot should that need arise. You should also name an alternate caregiver in case the first person can’t provide care. Funding the bird's care Set aside some funds for the person who will take on your bird. Consider setting up a trust for your bird’s care. Figure $400 a year for a smaller bird and $600 for a larger bird. If you believe that your bird will live 10 years beyond your death, have at least $4,000 to $6,000 in the trust. The trust can release funds yearly to the new caregiver and designate how the money should be spent. If you can’t find another person to take the bird in the event of your death or incapacitation, you can name your avian veterinarian or a bird sanctuary in your estate plan. Make sure both parties agree in advance, and you should give them the permission to find your parrot a new home. Your parrot’s trust fund should go to this entity and designate that the remaining funds be transferred to your bird’s new home when one is found. Some people plan for their parrot to be euthanized upon their death for fear that no one will be able to adequately care for their bird. Don’t do this! Most veterinarians won’t euthanize a healthy animal anyway, so even if you put this clause in your will, it’s doubtful any ethical veterinarian will carry it out. For your living will or estate plan to be executable, seek the advice of an attorney who specializes in this area. Make sure your trusted relatives or friends have copies of this document and have committed to follow your wishes. When your parrot dies The majority of parrot deaths are very sudden, unlike those of dogs and cats. You wake up in the morning or come home to a quiet house. Why isn’t the bird whistling, chattering, or talking? You approach the cage to find your bird lying stiffly at the bottom. A parrot’s death never gets easier and it’s always a shock. Birds have a lifespan, and you can’t do anything about it. Your parrot isn’t going to live forever. Also, birds hide their illnesses and can die before you even notice an issue. Losing a bird is like losing a family member; parrots bond with their guardians in an almost human way. Some birds even speak your language. Imagine that your parrot is communicating with you on the level of a two- or three-year-old human, and then one day, out of nowhere, the bird dies. That loss is huge. Your other birds who were friends with the deceased bird, especially the bird’s mate, may also be upset by the loss. They may call to the missing bird and constantly look for them for a period of time. If your bird had a mate, remove that bird from the vicinity of your other birds if you suspect that the bird who died may have been ill. Changing the mate’s cage, toys, and location can help the mate get over the loss. Sometimes, if a bird dies of old age, its bonded mate of a similar age will die not long after. If the remaining mate is young, he’ll likely accept another mate after a period of a few weeks. Check out this Cheat Sheet for what you can do when you parrot dies.

Cheat Sheet / Updated 03-25-2021

Parrots are engaging and intelligent birds, which may explain the many websites devoted to them and their interests. These tropical birds need protection from some common household items and natural predators, and if your parrot and your child share a house, you need to teach your child how to make friends with your parrot.

Article / Updated 03-25-2021

Quieter, neater, and, of course, smaller than their larger relations, the parrots grouped together here include what may be the world’s most popular pet bird, the budgerigar, and others with loads of fans, too, such as the cockatiel. And don’t forget the parrotlets and the lineolated parakeets, both popular and rising in popularity. These little guys are known for being among the smallest members of the parrot family. Don’t let their size fool you: Some of these small parrots have plenty of personality, and some can be more than enough to intimidate people. That said, parrotlets and linnies often make affectionate companions, and offer surprising talking ability. Most are reasonably priced, as well. Parakeets When Americans think “parakeet,” they’re usually picturing what the rest of the world calls a budgerigar, or budgie. A budgie is a parakeet, but to believe that it’s the only parakeet sadly ignores some of the more magnificent pet birds available. Most popular among these birds are the Asiatic parakeets — ringnecks, Alexandrians, derbians (also known as the Lord Derby parakeet), plum-heads, and mustached parakeets. As a group, they’re known for flashy, vibrant color and long, elegant tails. Once considered hands-off aviary birds, Asiatic parakeets are gaining ground as more up-close-and-personal pets. When captive raised and well socialized, some of these birds have great potential as affectionate companions and even great talkers — one of the better talkers Brian has ever met is a blue Indian ringneck parakeet named Sid. These species are gorgeous in an aviary, however, and seem to be happy there, too. Some Asiatic parakeets — either in the home or the aviary —have a pleasant and soothing call, while others have a reputation for being moderately noisy. Parakeets have a wide price range. Smaller, more common varieties may cost as little as $20 to $50. Prices climb according to color or species rarity, to as much as $800 or $1,000. Life spans for well-cared-for birds run from 20 to 40 years. Kim’s African ringneck parakeet, Larry, lived to be 29 years old. The Asiatics aren’t the only parakeets around. One popular parakeet native to South America is the Quaker, also called the Monk. Quakers are so adept at establishing themselves in the wild in places where they don’t belong, however, that some states and countries don’t allow them to be kept as pets. If your part of the world doesn’t have a regulation against ownership, though, these parakeets can be good companions. (Check with your local agriculture department for restrictions.) States that prohibit or restrict keeping Quaker parakeets include California, Georgia, Hawaii, Kansas, Kentucky, New Jersey, Pennsylvania, Rhode Island, Tennessee, and Wyoming. Quakers are handsome green-and-silver birds with decent talking potential and affectionate natures, when raised and handled properly. Prices are reasonable for these charmers, from $300 to $700, with an average of $475. Quaker parakeets earned their name because of the way babies “quake” when being fed in the nest. The Brotogeris gang are also parakeets of South American origin. These little guys love riding in pockets, are pretty quiet, and aren’t very messy. Primarily green in color with small, contrasting markings, Brotogeris are big guys in little bodies — some even like to pick fights with much bigger birds! The canary-winged parakeet — green with bright yellow under the wings — and gray-cheeked are two of the more commonly available Brotogeris parakeets in the United States. A little more expensive than some other parakeets, well-socialized individuals can start at $400 and go up from there. The Brotogeris species are difficult to breed and rear successfully, making them less common than in years past. Budgerigar When budgies were discovered by Europeans in Australia in the mid-1800s, they created quite a stir back home in Europe. They had everything going for them — bright color, an affectionate nature, and a real facility for talking. These same traits make this awesome little bird the world’s most popular today. You just can’t top a nice budgie — they have it all! In some ways, the popularity and availability of budgies has led many people to dismiss them, more so in recent years. Too common, too cheap, too ordinary, these lovely pets are too often considered just a “starter” bird, especially for children. And that idea opens the doors to mass breeding to fill public demand for low-cost sources of budgerigars, which further reinforces any perception of the budgie as a “throwaway pet.” What a waste! Budgies (shown) are remarkable pets, for children, adults, beginners, and experienced bird lovers alike. Budgies come in many colors and patterns and two basic body types. The American style of budgie is slender and long, whereas the English budgie is husky, with an almost bulldog look. Their personalities are the same, though, so color or body type is strictly a matter of personal preference. These versatile birds are suitable for any living situation. Prices range from under $20 for what are typically mass-produced birds to around $100 for more unusual colors in hand-raised birds. You can probably find a hand-raised American type for around $40, and we say that’s a good deal. Although eight years is the common forecast on life span, a well-cared-for budgie can make it well into the teens and beyond. To make sure you have the best experience with a budgie as a pet, skip the under-$20 mass-produced specimens (which are often a bit of a gamble because of uncertain health, background, and pet potential) and search out a hand-raised baby. A hand-raised little budgie who is really well socialized, already eating a good diet, and shows interest in interacting with you can carry you a long way! Parent-raised birds can be fine as hands-off cage or aviary pets, but we think you can enjoy the greatest rewards from your relationship if you choose a bird you can become friends with. A talking budgie has the charm to make a statue break out in a smile. If you listen carefully, you may figure out why we think these little guys are equipped to give the better-known big-parrot talkers a run for their money! Their lispy little high-pitched voices are adorable! Some are incredibly good talkers, learning 300 or more words or phrases. A budgie named Puck, from Petaluma, California, holds the record for largest avian vocabulary, according to Guinness World Records, which documented his knowledge of 1,728 words. We think that tiny hand-raised budgie you can carry around in your shirt pocket is worth his weight in gold! Lovebirds Peach-faced, black-masked, and Fischer’s lovebirds are small, sweet companions who come in a rainbow array of colors, thanks to human genetic meddling. Natural-born snugglers, lovebirds adore holing up in a pocket or other warm, hidden place. They aren’t great talkers, but some can learn a few words and phrases if you have the time and patience to work with them. For a pet, a single lovebird is best; otherwise, your pair will only have eyes for each other, not for you. Forget that old myth about them dying of loneliness — it just isn’t true. One healthy, well-socialized lovebird will be your contented pal. Lovebirds are also popular as aviary birds and for breeding purposes, and many hobbyists are working hard to increase the available varieties of these lovely birds. Fine for almost any living situation, lovebirds have life spans of 8 to 14 years, and well-cared-for birds over 20 years old are out there. Costs run from $50 for the normal peach-faced variety to $200 for newer color variations or less-common lovebird species. Parrotlets and lineolated parakeets The tiny parrotlet (shown) can fit in your hand, but anyone who owns one can tell you they have as much attitude as any macaw, more proof that good—no, make that great—things can certainly come in small packages. A newer arrival to this group is the lineolated parakeet. These vibrant green, yellow, or blue wonders have great potential for companionship and make wonderful friends to hang out with. Parrotlets and linnies generally have minimal talking ability, but they’re great fun to handle and to watch. Both can be fabulous to train and can do impressive things! In so many ways, they demonstrate how they’re just big parrots inhabiting a little parrot body! Reasonably priced, starting at $150 and going up to $500 or so, parrotlets can and should enjoy a life span of up to 20 years. Linnies are priced at about $300 for a pair and typically have a ten-year lifespan. Cockatiels The cockatiel is likely the most popular single pet bird species, at least among the parrot family. With crests reminiscent of the larger cockatoo, these birds were, for a while, known as “cockatoo parrots” until the modern coinage of cockatiel, from the Portuguese word cacatilho (meaning “little cockatoo”). Cockatiels (shown) justly deserve their legions of fans. Handsome and affectionate, the cockatiel is a perfect fit for any living situation, and a relatively easy breeder for anyone who wants to give that hobby a try. Many people have enjoyed the adventure of breeding cockatiels over the years, producing lovely varieties of colors and patterns, from the naturally occurring gray to the pale yellow lutino, the pied (blotches of two or more colors), cinnamon, pearl, and albino. Prices can start at $50 for some of the mass-produced birds, and rise as high as $275, with the cost of most pet cockatiels somewhere in the middle. Hand-raised babies and the rarer colors and patterns are at the higher end of the scale. Life spans for most cockatiels are often quoted to run 10 to 14 years, but again, a bird who starts healthy and is well cared for can live well into the twenties and beyond. In Brian’s practice, birds in their late twenties and early thirties are not uncommon. As with budgies, you can find plenty of mass-produced cockatiels with price tags that may seem irresistible. If you’re looking for a healthy, long-term companion, however, the hand-raised bird is a much better bet, even if the price is higher. As interesting as the many variations of cockatiels can be, some health problems have slipped into the mix. Some varieties, such as the white-faced and cinnamon, may develop problems on certain formulated diets. Talk to a veterinarian who is qualified and experienced in avian medicine to determine how to best keep these birds in optimal health and how to detect or avoid early problems. Males are usually better at vocalizing, with whistling a specialty. Cockatiels are generally not the best talkers, but males can pick up a few words or phrases. Don’t let the lack of verbosity dissuade you, though: The gentle cockatiel is about as fine an avian companion as you can imagine.