Walls & Painting Articles

Video / Updated 04-21-2022

Audio Transcript To remove ordinary wallpaper, you need to gather a few simple items. A pre-tape drop cloth A bucket of water A paint roller and pan A perforator A scraper (which looks a lot like a putty knife but has a slot for replaceable blades) Wallpaper removing solvent And a bucket full of patients The first step is to protect the floor and molding from water damage. Use a pre-taped plastic drop cloth and tape it to the top of the baseboard floor molding. Go all around the perimeter of the area and then unfold it into the room to cover the floor. If you skip this step, it can get messy, not to mention the damage that water can do to floors and baseboards. The second step is to score the wallpaper with a razor scraper or perforating tool. It's a perfect gadget for removing wallpaper from walls made of wall board or drywall, because it won't damage the paper face of the wall board. And that means you won't have to spend time repairing the walls later. When you score the paper with holes or slits it allows the moisture, when applied, to break down the adhesive. If at any time you notice the razor is getting dull, be sure to change it. The next step is to mix the wallpaper removing solvent with water. The solvent breaks down the adhesive, so that the wall covering loosens and can easily be scraped off. Use either a 50/50 combination of vinegar and water or a 25/75 solution of liquid laundry softener and water. The fourth step is to apply the wallpaper solvent with a paint roller or a liquid sprayer. Start with a three foot section of wallpaper. After a few applications of moisture and a little time to let it soak in, you'll be ready for the next step. Now peel and scrape off the wet paper. Work on a three foot wide section of the wall at a time and then move on to the next area. As you scrape off the old wallpaper, let it fall onto the plastic drop cloth. When all the wallpaper is removed, use a sponge and some warm water to remove any excess paste from the walls. Then just roll up the entire mess — wallpaper, drop cloth and all.

Step by Step / Updated 04-21-2022

Chalk paint can be used to paint almost anything — walls, kitchen cabinets, metal, wood, and even fabric — but the most common use is to give new life to old furniture or to make newer pieces look old. The great thing about chalk paint is that there isn't a huge learning curve or a lot of prep work. You can just dive right in.

Video / Updated 04-20-2022

Painting the corners and edges on a wall is the meticulous part; once you've done that, you're ready to paint the main part of the wall. Be sure you have the right tools — having the right roller for the surface of your walls is critical.

Video / Updated 04-20-2022

You don't want to run out of paint midway through painting a room. Use simple math the determine how much paint you need, and you're good to start painting.

Article / Updated 11-24-2021

Before you begin painting your home's interior walls, ceilings, woodwork, doors, or windows, you need to estimate the amount of paint you'll use. Estimates require specific calculations for each surface you want to paint. To estimate the amount of paint you need in order to cover the walls of a room, add together the length of all the walls and then multiply the number by the height of the room, from floor to ceiling. The number you get is the room's square footage. Is that math class coming back to you now? How to determine square footage Now you have to determine how much of that square footage is paintable surface area. Because you use a different paint on the doors and windows, subtract those areas from the room total. No sweat, just subtract 20 square feet for each door and 15 square feet for each average-sized window in the room. You end up with a number that is close to the actual wall area you have to cover with paint. In general, you can expect 1 gallon of paint to cover about 350 square feet. You need slightly more than a gallon if the walls are unpainted drywall, which absorbs more of the paint. You also need to consider whether to paint more than one coat. If you're painting walls that are unfinished, heavily patched, or dark in color, plan on applying two coats of paint. When painting a dark color, pros often add a color tint to the white primer. Tints for both latex or alkyd paints are available at most paint stores. For best results, choose a tint shade that's closest to the top coat color. Now for the clincher of the math problem. Divide the paintable wall area by 350 (the square-foot coverage in each gallon can) to find the number of gallons of paint you need for the walls. You can round uneven numbers; if the remainder is less than .5, order a couple of quarts of wall paint to go with the gallons; if the remainder is more than .5, order an extra gallon. Of course, buying in bulk is usually more economical, so you may discover that 3 quarts of paint cost as much as a gallon. Examples of calculations The following examples walk you through the calculations for determining how much paint you need for a 14-x-20-foot room that's 8 feet tall and has two doors and two windows. Ceiling paint estimator Use the following formula to estimate the amount of ceiling paint you need. Double the result if the ceiling requires two coats. 1. Multiply the length of the ceiling times its width to find its area. 14 × 20 = 280 square feet 2. Divide that number by 350 (the estimated square feet covered per gallon) to figure out how many gallons of paint you need. 280 ÷ 350 = .8 For this example, you want to buy 1 gallon of ceiling paint for a single coat. Wall paint estimator Use the following formula to estimate the amount of wall paint you need. Double the result if the walls require two coats. 1. Add together the length of each wall. 14 + 20 + 14 + 20 = 68 feet 2. Multiply the sum by the wall height, to find the total wall area. 68 × 8 = 544 square feet 3. Subtract 20 square feet for each door (20 × 2 = 40) and 15 square feet for each window (15 × 2 = 30) to find the actual amount of wall area you're painting. 544 – 70 = 474 square feet 4. Divide this figure by the paint coverage (350 square feet per gallon), and the result is the number of gallons to purchase. 474 ÷ 350 = 1.4 For this example, you want to buy 1 gallon and 2 quarts of paint for a single coat. Woodwork paint estimator Measure the length of the trim in feet, and multiply that number by 1/2 foot (.5), as a rough size for the width of the trim. Include all the trim around doors and windows, at baseboards, along the ceiling, and for any built-in furniture. As an example, imagine that you have ceiling molding running around a room that is 14 feet wide and 20 feet long. 1. Determine the total length of molding around the room by adding together the length of all the walls that the molding covers. Round the numbers off to the nearest foot. 14 + 20 + 14 + 20 = 68 feet 2. Multiply the sum by .5 for an estimated width of the molding. 68 × .5 = 34 square feet 3. Divide this number by 350 to estimate the gallons of paint required to cover the molding. 34 ÷ 350 = .09 The result in this example is much less than a quart, but you may paint other woodwork in the room the same color, so buying a full quart may not be terribly wasteful. Door and window estimator Use the same figure for estimating door coverage as you use in your wall-area calculations — 20 square feet = one door. Multiply the number of doors by 20, doubling the answer if you plan to paint both sides. Wall paint estimates allow for 15 square feet for each window. Use about half that window area to figure trim and inside sash — the glass isn't important to the calculation. For the room in this example: 1. Multiply the number of doors by 20. 2 × 20 = 40 square feet 2. Multiply the number of windows by 7.5. 2 × 7.5 = 15 square feet 3. Add these numbers together. 40 + 15 = 55 4. Divide the result by 350 (the estimated square feet covered per gallon). 54 ÷ 350 = .16 Often, you end up needing to buy only a quart of paint, which goes a long way on doors and window trim. See also: How to Paint Ceilings and Walls How to Paint Paneled Doors How to Paint Trim Tools You Need for a Basic Paint Project

Article / Updated 02-13-2020

Chalk paint is a fantastic product, but it’s expensive and can cost up to $35 for just a quart. However, with just some basic ingredients and a “can do” attitude, you can learn how to make chalk paint for a fraction of the cost. Chalk paint got is name because it covers the piece of furniture with a soft, chalky patina that gives that piece an incredible antique look. Designed by Annie Sloan, chalk paint is a paint that is easily applied on just about everything. The great thing is that chalk paint requires no prepping or sanding of anything you wish to paint outside or inside. Covering easily and drying quickly, chalk paint provides a beautiful patina, and your distressed item comes out looking wonderful with very little effort. Chalk Paint is so named because it is applied smoothly, it dries quickly, and it can be easily sanded to make your piece have that great, distressed look. How to make chalk paint There are several different ways to make chalk paint. The Do-It-Yourself (DIY) process involves two simple steps that require light mixing, pouring, and stirring of several ingredients. Follow the instructions below to make your own chalk paint: Mix the Plaster of Paris, baking soda, or unsanded grout and water together enough to remove all the lumps. Pour the baking soda or unsanded grout mixture into the paint.Stir until all of the mixture is dissolved and there are no lumps. Make sure paint is as smooth as it was when you started. The paint appears at first no different than the latex paint you started with. When the chalk paint dries on the furniture, you will notice the distressed look. For a quart of paint, quadruple the amount, but remember that it dries (and dries out) quickly. Chalk paint recipes Here are three of the most popular chalk paint recipes: Plaster of Paris, Baking soda, and unsanded grout. There are only three ingredients for each recipe and using the quantities specified below will allow you to make just over a cup of paint each. Plaster of Paris chalk paint recipe 1 cup latex paint 1-1/2 tablespoons water 2-1/2 tablespoons Plaster of Paris Baking soda chalk paint recipe 1 cup latex paint 3 tablespoons cool water 1/2 cup baking soda Unsanded grout chalk paint recipe 1 cup latex paint 1 tablespoon cool water 2 tablespoons unsanded grout

Step by Step / Updated 11-25-2019

You’ve finished painting, so now it’s time to clean the oil paint from paintbrushes. Use solvent (paint thinner) to clean oil paint from paintbrushes; soap and water won’t work. Cleaning paintbrushes before the paint has a chance to dry on them is the best way to keep your equipment in good shape. Cleaning with paint thinner can be quite messy. Work in a garage or outdoors, if you can. Be sure that wherever you choose is protected from splatters and is well ventilated.

Article / Updated 11-25-2019

Chalk paint is a great way to give new life to an old piece. This paint is popular among the do-it-yourself crowd and offers a versatile medium for freshening up any project such as furniture or kitchen cabinets. However, like any project, chalk paint needs a protective finish. Using wax on your project after applying chalk paint provides that protective layer on your newly modified piece. Before you get started with applying wax to your piece, you will need a few supplies. Make sure you have the following on hand: Clear wax Optional dark wax Wax brush (one for each type of wax) Lint-free cloths Your project Before you jump in, here are a few tips for applying the wax. Don’t saturate your brush with wax: You only want the tip of your brush to be covered in the wax. Because you will only apply the wax in a very thin coat, oversaturation may cause issues with your project. Some restoration experts recommend scooping the wax onto a separate disposable surface (such as a paper plate) so that you can lightly dip your brush into the wax. Apply the wax in a thin layer: Generally, you should only apply wax in thin layers. The wax will act as a protective coating. Avoiding buildup of the wax is key when seeking protection from the elements. Use a disposable lint free cloth to avoid buildup: A lint-free cloth is a handy accessory when applying wax. You can use the cloth to smooth out any excessive amounts of wax and wipe away buildup in grooves and corners. This cloth is also useful for buffing. You have a few options for applying wax to your finished product. You can apply a thin clear wax. This will retain the color of your painted piece while providing protection from the elements. Dip your wax brush lightly into the clear wax. Use brush strokes to rub the wax into the furniture. You can brush the wax over your project in any pattern. Most importantly, you just want a thin layer. Wipe your lint-free cloth over the wax to smooth out any buildup. Allow time to dry. Wax will usually dry in an hour or two. However, this may vary depending on temperature and other factors. Make sure the wax is not tacky to touch. Apply a second coat of clear wax. Check out this video tutorial to see how to apply clear wax. You can apply a layer of dark wax. You can do this in a couple of ways to achieve different results: Even if you elect to do a dark wax on your project, you will still want to apply a coat or two of clear wax before applying the dark wax. You can apply light layers of dark wax around edges and grooves to achieve a distressed look. Check out this video tutorial for applying dark wax and distressing. Apply a layer of clear wax. Dip your dark wax brush lightly into the dark wax. Apply wax around any decorative edges, grooves, or seams. Use your cloth to wipe away any unwanted wax to achieve the look you want. You can apply an overall layer of dark wax. This video shows you how to apply a layer of dark wax to provide a unique aged look and give your piece a dark tint. Apply a layer of clear wax. Dip your dark wax brush lightly into the dark wax. Apply wax evenly over your project. Use your cloth to wipe away any unwanted wax to achieve the look you want. The good thing about using wax over chalk paint is that there are few rules. You can apply the wax in thin layers or thick layers to achieve the look you want. You can also wipe off any unwanted wax, so don’t worry too much about making mistakes. In fact, this haphazard method often achieves a unique look! When you’re ready, grab your brush and prepare to apply some wax!

Article / Updated 11-25-2019

Doors take a lot of use and abuse, so when painting them, choose a durable paint finish that has a semigloss or gloss sheen. Semigloss or gloss makes cleaning easier and holds up to frequent cleaning. You need to lay down at least two topcoats to get a uniform appearance. If the current finish on the door is a glossy paint, use a deglosser to dull the finish. Leave doors hanging on their hinges while you paint them so that you can paint both sides at the same time. You can remove most modern lock sets in less than a minute (and replace them in under two), so removing them for painting is easier than masking. Make sure that you do one or the other. You must seal all surfaces of new doors to prevent moisture from entering the door and causing it to warp. This step is critical for a solid-wood door or a solid-core veneered door. You can even seal the surfaces of hollow-core doors (the most common lightweight interior door), which aren't as prone to warping. If you don't plan to take the door off, slip a mirror under it to see if the bottom edge has been painted. If not, either use a mini-painting pad that enables you to paint the bottom edge or remove the door from its hinges, apply a sealer to the bottom edge, and rehang the door to paint the rest of it. Rolling a flush (flat) door Paint a flat door with a brush, pad, or roller (with a 1/4-inch nap or foam sleeve). If you use a roller, backbrush immediately with a wide brush or pad to smooth the roller stipple. The texture that rollers impart works well for walls and ceilings but isn't attractive on doors or wood trim. Doors with a luan mahogany veneer have a rougher texture than those with a birch veneer. Although you'll never get a mahogany door as smooth as you can a birch door, sanding between coats helps, especially if you're priming and painting a new door. After painting the door itself, paint the doorjamb and casing, beginning at the doorstop and working out. Painting raised-panel doors Paint a raised-panel door with a brush and paint with the natural grain of the wood. Painting around the panels is time-consuming, making it difficult to keep a wet edge. One commonly recommended approach is to paint all the panels first. But this approach works only if you cut in carefully and avoid getting paint on the faces of the stiles, muntins, and rails that frame the panels. If you get paint on a stile while painting the first couple of panels, for example, the paint may set up before you're ready to paint the rest of the stile. For most painters, the best approach is to paint the top pair of panels and the stiles, muntins, and rails around them. Then move to the next lower pair of panels, and so on. Using a paint conditioner keeps a wet edge longer, makes the paint go on more easily, and improves its bond, which are all important qualities for door painting.

Article / Updated 11-25-2019

Choosing a paint finish for interior walls depends on the desired amount of shine and durability. The most common interior paint finishes (paint sheen) are flat, eggshell, satin, semi-gloss, and high-gloss. Choosing the right paint finish for your interior project depends on the look, durability, and ambiance you want. Flat finish: Available only in latex paint, a flat finish is opaque and sophisticated. It works great on interior walls and ceilings. As the least shiny finish available, it doesn't clean well and isn’t suited for kitchens, baths, or children’s bedrooms. If you have kids, choose carefully. The only way to get rid of fingerprints and scribbles on a flat-finish wall is to paint over them. Eggshell finish: An eggshell finish is often used for decorative finishes because it provides a low luster. It cleans up better than a flat finish, but probably not as well as you would want in a kitchen or bathroom. Satin finish: The most popular paint sheen is a satin finish. It has more sheen than eggshell or satin and cleans better too. This finish is a good choice for woodwork, walls, doors, and hallways. It's also great for bedrooms and dining rooms.Satin is washable but it isn’t scrubbable, so you probably don't want to use it around your toddler's craft table. Semi-gloss finish: A semi-gloss paint will give your room a subtle shine. It’s scrubbable and good for moldings, doors, windows, kitchens, and baths. High-gloss finish: A high-gloss finish has a shiny, polished look. It’s also stain resistant and very scrubbable, which makes it a good choice for the areas of a home that get the most wear and tear, such as kitchens and baths. Food splatter or even crayon marks will clean up easily on a high-gloss finish. When you’re deciding on which sheen you want to use, remember the higher the sheen, the darker and more intense the color will be. Also, high-gloss paint reflects light — and makes imperfections in your walls more noticeable. So before you apply this paint finish, take the time to prep your walls and make them extra smooth. Although most paint finishes are available in either latex- or oil-based paints, you'll want to evaluate the pros and cons of latex- and oil-based paints to determine which is right for you.