Sustainability Articles

Article / Updated 03-29-2023

Planned or built-in obsolescence is when companies deliberately design products to break down quickly, forcing the customer to purchase a replacement product. The purpose of this tactic is simply to generate more revenue for the company. The earliest story of built-in obsolescence is the light bulb. Back in 1924, a cartel of the major light bulb manufacturers, including General Electric and Phillips, made sure that light bulbs didn’t significantly exceed an expected life span of 1,000 hours, so the homeowner had to buy replacement bulbs regularly. Built-in obsolescence is prevalent in electronic goods, although not exclusive to them. Some of the most common tactics include the following. Deliberately shortening a product’s life span This is the most common method used. Examples include using cheap or unreliable parts that break or wear out quickly, rendering the entire product useless. For instance, many children’s toys are built to last only as long as their weakest part, even though rough playing is expected. Preventing repairs Many devices we use regularly can’t be repaired. Sometimes it’s simply the battery that needs replacing, but it’s glued or otherwise locked inside the device where we can’t reach it. Companies may even suggest the warranty is void if we attempt to open the product. In other scenarios, repair services may be available, but they are often absurdly expensive, while the price of a new product is much lower. Mobile phone manufacturers have drawn criticism recently for the lack of repairability of phones. Restricting software upgrades Many of our devices rely on up-to-date software, particularly with the number of viruses and scams around. A product’s software can be made to fail after a certain period, forcing the user to upgrade their product. You might have encountered this issue with an older mobile phone. I was still using my iPhone after five years, but unfortunately, even though the phone still performed all the required tasks, I had to upgrade to a new phone because the software no longer supported any of the apps and my phone was no longer protected. In 2018, Apple was fined $27 million in France for intentionally slowing down the speed of older phones through software updates. Although Apple claimed it was to provide better battery performance, that didn’t help their case because customers should also be able to replace the battery. The perception of obsolescence Sometimes companies don’t even design for obsolescence. They simply market the product in a way that suggests you should replace your old device. The new release will have some feature that is bigger or better. Fast fashion is a good example of the perception of obsolescence, conveying the idea that your clothes are out of date faster than you can get them home from the store. Avoiding planned obsolescence Avoiding built-in obsolescence can be tricky. Consider whether you need a new product or whether you can keep using what you have. Look into other options like repairing your old device or buying secondhand. Do your research, and check reviews to get a feel for the durability and repairability of an item before you buy. Some companies are headed in the right direction, making their products more repairable and upgradable. For example, Framework has designed a laptop computer with a modular design that gives the user flexibility to upgrade, downgrade, or repair their laptop at any stage. To learn more about what to look out for when choosing a new device, check out my book Recycling For Dummies. Finally, the best advice I can give is to take your time and not be pressured by advertising that tells you to get the latest device or product. Sleep on it, and remember it’s your hard-earned money that you’ll be spending.

Cheat Sheet / Updated 04-07-2022

After you decide that your home is a good candidate for wind power, you need to understand the basic parts of wind-electric systems and how they fit together. In addition, you need to evaluate how much energy your home needs and how much wind your site actually gets — a realistic wind resource assessment is key. You also want to make sure to steer clear of "too good to be true" energy estimates from the pros who want to sell you their goods and services.

Article / Updated 03-31-2022

The best and most refined of organic matters is compost, which is organic matter and/or manures that have decomposed until they resemble loamy soil. Thoroughly decomposed compost contains lots of humus — the beneficial, soil-improving material your plants need. Whether the original source was grass clippings, sawdust, animal manure, or vegetable scraps from your kitchen, all organic matter eventually becomes compost. Making your own compost is probably the simplest way to ensure high quality compost and save some money. It's really not as complicated as you may think: The many commercial composting bins and containers on the market make it a mess-free and hassle-free process. A well-constructed compost pile — built with the proper dimensions and maintained correctly — heats up fast; decomposes uniformly and quickly; kills many diseases, insects, and weed seeds; doesn't smell; and is easy to turn and maintain. Conversely, a pile just thrown together rarely heats up and, therefore, takes longer to decompose. This type of cold composting doesn't kill any diseases, insects, or weed seeds; may smell bad; and definitely looks messy. Containing your compost pile makes it look neater, helps you maintain the correct moisture, and prevents animals from getting into it. You can build your own, as shown in Figure 1, or buy a commercial home composting unit. Figure 1: Build a simple wooden bin to hold your compost pile. The advantages of a commercial composter include the availability of a wide range of attractive sizes and shapes and ease of use. Choose from box-shaped plastic and wooden bins and barrels or elevated and easy-to-turn tumblers, as shown in Figure 2. Store-bought bins are costly, however, and produce only small quantities of compost at a time, especially compared to a homemade bin that's built from scrap lumber or wire. Figure 2: Commercial composters help you make compost yourself. How to build a good compost pile Here's how you build a good compost pile: Choose a shady location. Make it out of the way, but still within view so that you don't forget about the pile. The soil under it should be well drained. Make a bin. Create a wire cylinder that's 3- to 4-feet in diameter or build a three-sided box (similar to the one in Figure 1), that's 4 to 5-feet high and wide. Add brown materials. Add a 6-inch layer of "brown" organic matter — such as hay, straw, old leaves, and sawdust — to the bottom of the container. Add green materials. Add a 2- to 3-inch layer of "green" organic matter, such as green grass clippings, manure, table scraps, or even high-nitrogen fertilizer, such as cottonseed meal, on top of the brown layer. Repeat these layers. Water each layer as you go, until the pile is 4 to 5-feet tall and fills the bin. A smaller pile won't heat up well and a larger pile can be difficult to manage. Within two days, mix the layers together thoroughly. Particle size should be varied, smaller particles hasten decomposition. Cover the pile with a tarp. This keeps rain away and preserves moisture. If the pile gets too soggy or too dry, it won't heat up. What to add, and what not to add Not all organic matter is good for the compost pile. Following, is a look at what to add to a pile, including ratios, and what not to add. What to add to the pile or composter What you put in the compost pile is up to you — just remember that it needs to be from an organic material. Here's a short list of possibilities: Hay, straw, pine needles Leaves Kitchen scraps (egg shells, old bread, vegetable and fruit scraps) Animal manure, except for dog, cat, pig, or human Old vegetables, flowers, or trimmings from trees and shrubs Sawdust Wood chips Weeds Shredded black-and-white newspaper. (In the past, color printing used heavy metals in the ink. Most color printing now uses soy-based inks, but it's better to avoid them in the garden altogether to be on the safe side.) What not to add Some items don't belong in your compost pile. While hot compost piles can kill off many diseases, weed seeds, and insects, it's not a sure thing, and some of these unpleasant guests may survive to invade your garden again. Certain materials can also invite unwanted wildlife to the pile or spread human diseases. Avoid adding the following to your compost bin: Kitchen scraps like meats, oils, fish, dairy products, and bones. They attract unwanted animals, such as rats and raccoons, to the pile. Weeds that have gone to seed or that spread by their roots, such as quackgrass Diseased or insect-infested vegetable or flower plants Herbicide-treated grass clippings or weeds Dog, cat, or pig feces Ratios for adding materials to the compost pile In composting corners, you often hear about the carbon to nitrogen (C/N) ratio. Basically, all organic matter can be divided into carbon-rich (brown stuff) and nitrogen-rich (green stuff) materials. Using the right mixture of brown to green stuff when building a compost pile encourages the pile to heat up and decompose efficiently. Although nearly any combination of organic materials eventually decomposes, for the fastest and most efficient compost pile in town, strike the correct balance (C/N ratio) between the two types of material — usually 25 to 1 (that is, 25 parts carbon to 1 part nitrogen). Table 1 shows which common compost materials are high in carbon and which materials are high in nitrogen. Notice that the softer materials, such as fresh grass clippings, tend to be higher in nitrogen than hard materials, such as sawdust. Mix these together to form a pile with an average C/N ratio of 25-to-1 to 30-to-1, and you'll be well on your way to beautiful compost. Use the following carbon/nitrogen ratios as guidelines. Actual ratios vary depending on the sources of the materials and other factors. And speaking of sources — be sure that your compost materials haven't been contaminated with pesticides or other chemicals. Material and C/N Ratio Table scraps, 15:1 Grass clippings, 19:1 Old manure, 20:1 Fresh alfalfa hay, 12:1 Fruit waste, 25:1 Corn stalks, 60:1 Old leaves, 80:1 Straw, 80:1 Paper, 170:1 Sawdust, 500:1 Wood, 700:1 Quick and easy compost recipes To make the most compost in the shortest amount of time, try some of these proven recipes. For each recipe, mix the ingredients thoroughly and follow the directions in the next section. Depending on weather and compost ingredients, you should have ready-to-use compost within one to two months. Recipe #1: Four parts kitchen scraps from fruits and vegetables, 2 parts chicken or cow manure, 1 part shredded newspaper (black ink only), and 1 part shredded dry leaves. Recipe #2: Two parts kitchen scraps, 1 part chicken manure, and 1 part shredded leaves. Recipe #3: Two parts grass clippings, 1 part chicken manure, and 1 part shredded leaves. Keeping your compost pile happy A hot pile is a happy pile. If you follow the method of just throwing everything together, the pile will rarely heat up. If you follow the method of building the pile carefully with a balanced C/N ratio, the pile will start to cook within a week. Now you need to keep it cooking. Here's the procedure: Keep the pile moist by periodically watering it. Dig into the pile about 1 foot to see if it's moist. If not, water the pile thoroughly, but not so that it's soggy. The pile needs air, too, and adding too much water removes air spaces. If you built the pile with moist ingredients, such as kitchen scraps, it won't need watering at first. Turn the pile when it cools down. Using a garden fork, remove the outside layers and put them aside. Remove the inside layers into another pile and then switch. Place the outside layers in the center of the new pile and the inside layers along the outside of the new pile. Let it cook again. How hot it gets and how long it cooks depends on the ratio of C/N materials in the pile and whether you have the correct moisture levels. When it's cool, turn it again. You should have finished compost after two to three turnings. The finished product should be cool, crumbly, dark colored, and earthy smelling. Sometimes, a compost pile never heats up, smells bad, or contains pieces of undecomposed materials. Chances are that one of the following conditions occurred: The pile was too wet or dry. You added too many carbon materials and not enough nitrogen materials. The pieces of material were too big or packed together. Shred leaves, branches, and pieces of wood to decompose more quickly. The pile was too small. You can find lots of compost aids on the market. Bioactivators — packages of concentrated microbes — are one of the most popular because they can speed the decomposition process. These microbes occur naturally, however, and many are already present in a well-constructed compost pile. Save your money and use microbe-rich compost materials instead.

Cheat Sheet / Updated 03-15-2022

The words “solar power” often bring to mind solar panels and photovoltaic (PV) solar systems, but you can harness the sun’s energy in a number of smaller ways. The practical and affordable solar projects listed here are ones anyone can build or take advantage of. They explain how to use solar energy to purify drinking water, enjoy a portable shower, and cool your house.

Cheat Sheet / Updated 03-01-2022

By composting food scraps, yard waste, and other ingredients, you create nutrient-rich compost to add to your garden and landscape, and you minimize the waste sent to landfills. Home composting is a great way to be greener and do something good for the environment while seeing major benefits right at home.

Article / Updated 07-29-2019

Boosting the efficiency of your swimming pool is an important first step in reducing your carbon footprint and moving toward a more sustainable lifestyle. Here's how to make your swimming pool energy efficient so that when you add solar, you get the most bang for your buck: Reduce bends in the piping: Sharp bends in the PVC piping slow down the flow and require more power to do the same job. Unfortunately, many pool installers completely fail this simple requirement. If your pipes are all over the place, rebuild the system. PVC is a cinch to work with. Make sure that all valves are working properly: If you have gate valves, replace them with ball valves, which are more efficient. Make sure that all ball valves are completely open or closed. Keep the filter clean: A dirty filter loads the pump, which costs a lot more power. If your filter is old, replace it. Cartridge filters are better than diatomaceous Earth. Install a smaller, higher efficiency pump, and run it less each day: Use the smallest, most efficient pump possible — 3/4 horsepower is usually sufficient. If your pump is a few years old and wasn't designed with enough capacity for solar panel use, buying a new one will probably be economical. Most people will find that they can run their pool pump for much less time and still achieve satisfactory cleanliness. Give it a try. A large power pump filters your pool water faster, and some people like that because it means you can run the pump less (which means you listen to it less). But here's the problem: If you're planning on putting up solar panels, the amount of heat they put into the pool is a function of how much time water is flowing through them; the quantity of water isn't as important. So if you have a large pump that moves water quickly, you're not optimizing your solar panels. Install windbreaks around your pool. Wind can increase evaporation 300 percent or more, which wastes a lot of energy, much more than you may think.

Article / Updated 07-10-2019

You can heat your pool using solar power. Your pool system already includes the pump, controller, and filter, along with PVC pipes that route the water flow. Simply break into the PVC line after the filter and run a couple of flex hoses (or PVC, if you prefer) to the solar collector panel, which you can lay out on the ground or set against a hill to achieve some tilt toward the sun. A simple swimming pool solar-heating system. When the valve is closed, water runs exclusively through the solar collector panel, heating the water. As you open the valve, less water flows through the collector panel. In this way, you can adjust how much heat is going into your pool. Solar collector panels are available at most pool supply stores. Adaptors are sometimes necessary. Here are some ways to run the system for best results: Place the solar collector panel where it sees the most sunlight when the pool pump is running. If you place the solar collector panel on your roof, try to minimize resistance to the water flow. Keep the solar panel out of the wind as much as possible. For best heating results, run the pool pump during the sunniest time of the day; running it longer will result in more heat in the pool. If you want to use two or more solar collector panels, connect them in parallel. Flexible solar collector panels that are designed to fit together in a parallel ganged arrangement reduce the overall water pressure while heating the same amount of water. The general rule is to use a total collector surface area that's about half the surface area of your pool. But this varies quite a bit. Sizing your collector surface area depends on a number of factors: The pump's running time: The longer it's on, the more heat you collect in the pool for a given collector size. Pool location: If you have an above ground pool, the heat loss is much greater. You need a collector with more surface area. Solar potential when the pump is on: Note how your solar panels are oriented. How much sunlight do you get? Shade: Cutting down Old Man Oak isn't much of an option if your blood is truly green. Otherwise, choose a larger collector. Wind: If you have a lot of wind, your collectors will run inefficiently unless they are glazed. Swimming pools cost a lot. If you don't have any kind of swimming pool heater, your useable season may be around four months of the year. If you install a swimming pool heating system, you can get eight months. This explains the popularity of pool heaters. In a full-scale, professional-grade swimming pool solar system, when the pump is on, the controller decides whether to activate the solar collectors by measuring the temperature at the collectors and the temperature of the pool water. When heat's available at the collector, the motor valve opens, and the pump moves water up into the collectors and back down to the swimming pool. When the controller deactivates the motor valve and no longer allows water to pump into the collectors, the vacuum breaker allows the system to purge itself of liquid.

Step by Step / Updated 06-14-2019

Building sustainable practices into your everyday routines improves the health of the planet and the wealth in your wallet. To lighten your carbon footprint and save some green, try these low- or no-cost practices:

Article / Updated 03-02-2017

Radiant floor heat systems use solar power to heat water, which is then pumped through your home's floor. You can use solar-heated water to heat your home off-grid. Radiant heat, without solar, costs much less than forced-air heating for efficiency reasons. Installing a radiant heat floor system is almost surely not a do-it-yourself project, but it merits elaboration because it's such a complete and effective way to use solar energy water heating. A snaking closed loop of metal or plastic tubing runs beneath your floor. When hot water flows through the tubing, the heat radiates upward through the floor and into the room. When you supplement your radiant heat system with a solar water heater, you can drive your heating costs down to nearly nothing. Of course, sunshine isn't very reliable, particularly on the coldest nights when you most need heat, so you can't use solar heating exclusively; it can only be a supplement. But it can be very effective. Plus, it's also the most comfortable way to heat a home. You can use any type of water heating system with a radiant floor system, but the capacity of hot water that you use goes up dramatically with a radiant heat floor system. So the attraction of a solar system also goes up dramatically, because you get much cheaper hot water per BTU. At the very least, radiant heating reduces your carbon footprint. When you combine it with solar, the pollution savings can be impressive. The engineering is complex, and the installation is clearly not for the faint of heart. There are technical problems, of course, but the systems have been in use for a long, long time. New technologies are making these the system of choice for a lot of homes. Here's why: With conventional forced-air systems, hot air comes in through the vents and immediately rises to the ceiling. That's not where you want it, so you need to either pump in more heat than you really need (inefficiency) or use overhead fans to move the air back down (inefficiency). Moving air makes you feel colder, and you get stuck listening to blower noise as a big machine goes on and off all night. Furthermore, heated air dries out very fast, so your lips dry up, and your skin gets tight. With radiant floors, the heat starts at ground level and rises naturally, which is much more efficient. With radiant floor systems, there's no blower noise, wind chill is nonexistent, and you don't have to mess with HVAC filters. The big benefit is that the heat is in the room — the floor and furniture — not just the air. You can adjust your thermostat to a lower temperature in a radiant house and achieve the same comfort level because the floor and furniture are where the heat is. Where you set the thermostat is a question of comfort, not numerical temperature. If you're planning on a room addition to your house, consider using a radiant floor in that room. Your existing HVAC system likely won't have enough capacity to heat an additional room. Adding a solar water heater to your house and using your domestic heater to heat the radiant floor in the addition works wonders, and it's usually cheaper than adding another small HVAC system. You can also cool your house with radiant flooring. It doesn't work quite as well as heating, but if you have solar panels, you can use these at night to cool the water that's already in the closed loop of the radiant floor system. The reason the collectors will cool is simply because they have so much area, and the heat will escape into the cool, nighttime air. This is especially true if a breeze is blowing.

Cheat Sheet / Updated 03-27-2016

If you want to make alternative energy a part of your life, either through your car, home, or at work, you should understand some basic energy terminology and the various alternative energy sources being used and developed.