Landscaping Articles

Cheat Sheet / Updated 03-08-2022

Putting together your perfect landscape starts with making a wish list customized to your needs, planning out your landscaping, and purchasing plants best suited for your landscape plan and hardiness zone. This Cheat Sheet can help you keep track of these details.

Cheat Sheet / Updated 03-27-2016

If you want to create a sustainable landscape, examine your yard to determine what eco-friendly improvements can be made right away. Start conserving water and select plans that have similar temperature, sun, and water needs — and use environmentally-friendly landscaping methods — and you will be on your way to a beautiful and sustainable lawn

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

Instead of viewing a slope in your yard as a landscape liability, consider it a great opportunity — a place to display a rock garden. Rock garden plants are quite beautiful, and growing them on a slope near a walkway gives you the opportunity to view them up close. Your rock garden plan could combine plants, steps, and boulders — and can work in the backyard at the edge of a lawn or in front, right off of a sidewalk. Keep the following in mind for creating this sort of rock garden: The steps are stones. Use stones of different lengths for a more natural look. Choose stones with a smooth, flat surface, and put them in place firmly. Create planting pockets on the steps. Riprap (large chunks of rock) helps the soil. Randomly stacking rocks of varying size is an economical way to retain soil on the slope — the steeper the hillside, the closer together you want the rocks to stabilize the soil effectively. Add planting pockets between the rocks to soften harshness. Boulders add a natural touch. Keep them in scale, not too big or too small for the site. Color and texture come alive. Typical rock garden plants are small and slow growing, offering a variety of textures that are best viewed close up. For color, include blooming perennials, such as lavender, coreopsis, and salvia. Small trees and shrubs add beauty. Potential rock garden trees include dwarf arborvitae (Thuja occidentalis), dwarf hemlock (Tsuga canadensis), dwarf hinoki cypress (Chamaecyparis obtusa), Japanese maple (Acer palmatum), and Mugho pine (Pinus mugo mugo). As for shrubs, try bog rosemary (Andromeda polifolia 'Nana'), dwarf heath (Erica), dwarf Japanese holly (Ilex crenata), dwarf junipers, and dwarf Scotch heather (Calluna vulgaris). Small perennials bring bursts of color. Perennials that work well in a simple rock garden include bellflower (Campanula), Cranesbill (Geranium), Moonbeam coreopsis (Coreopsis verticillata 'Moonbeam'), primroses (Primula), thrift (Armeria), thyme (Thymus), and Yarrow (Achillea).

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

Vines are useful in the landscape as groundcovers, as a covering for a fence or blank wall, or as shading on an arbor or trellis to cool a patio or deck. Just remember that they can be very vigorous and sprawl over, twine around, climb up, or attach to whatever gets in their way. As long as you keep them within bounds and under control, they can be effective. Like other plant groups (trees, shrubs, and so on), vines offer a variety of ornamental characteristics, including seasonal flower color, bright berries, and autumn color. Because most grow vertically, you can use them in tight spots where few other plants would fit. And they are versatile — they can create privacy, provide shade, and conceal unattractive landscape features. Types of climbing vines Vines are grouped into several types, according to the way they climb, as shown in Figure 1. Vines need to grow on something, either another plant or a trellis you provide. Before deciding what kind of support to provide for your favorite climbers, you need to know exactly how the vines attach themselves. Figure 1: A look at the different ways vines attach. Clinging vines. Examples are English ivy and Boston ivy. These vines have specialized growths — like little suction cups or claws — along their stems that can hook onto any surface they touch. Sprawling vines. An example is a climbing rose. These vines are often vigorous, spreading plants. In order for them to climb, they need to be tied to a trellis or support. Twining vines. These vines come in two types. Some, like star jasmine (Trachelospermum jasminoides), wrap around anything that falls in their way. Others, like grapes, have small, twining tendrils at the bases of their leaves. The tendrils grab and wrap around anything they can reach. Should vines grow on walls or fences? Clinging vines, such as English ivy and Virginia creeper, can attach so firmly to walls and fences that getting them off without damaging the structure becomes almost impossible. And sometimes the attaching parts of the plant work their way into cracks and crevices. As they enlarge and grow, they can lift shingles and damage even the sturdiest materials, such as concrete and brick. Letting a clinging vine attach directly to the walls of your house usually isn't a good idea, unless the house is made of brick, stone, or aluminum siding. And even then you can have problems. Instead, build a trellis a few feet away from the side of the house and let it support the vine. That way, you can also paint the wall (behind the trellis) if you need to. Supporting vines in your garden As vines grow, the branches enlarge and the plant gets heavier. If the supports aren't strong enough, they can buckle under the weight. Build supports that are sturdy and long lasting. Two-inch galvanized pipe and pressure-treated 4x4 lumber are both good choices. You have many ways to support a vine, from arbors to lath trellises to wires strung between secure anchors. The important thing is to plan the supporting device in advance, make it strong, and design it to fit the growth habit of the vine. Probably the simplest way to support a vine is to let it climb up and ramble through a companion tree or shrub — the way many vines grow in nature. This display can be enchanting in a landscape if the two plants are good companions. Moderate growers, like clematis, happily associate with large shrubs. Vigorous growers, such as ivy, are best kept out of trees. Don't let any type of vine climb into the tops of trees. Vigorous vines usually compromise the health of the tree. Heavy fences or the walls of outbuildings are another place to plant climbers, and these supports require little work from you. A chain-link fence can be transformed from an eyesore to a wall of color with a handsome climbing rose or Virginia creeper. In winter, the leaves drop from deciduous plants, but the eyesore will still look better than without the vine. The classic structure for any vine is an arbor. The simplest of these may be a pair of posts with a timber or arch spanning the top. You train the vine to grow up the posts and over the arch. You can use a series of these arches to make a shady outdoor tunnel or to cover an entire patio. Attach wire to the posts to help the young vine find its way to the top. Pruning vines in your garden Pruning prevents vines from getting out of control, becoming too heavy, or growing into places that you don't want them. Prune heavily to keep the vine healthy and attractive. Winter is a traditional time for pruning, but you can prune in any season to keep a rampant vine in check. Prune flowering vines like wisteria immediately after the plants drop their blooms. The best time to do your major pruning of vigorous-growing fruiting plants, such as grapes and kiwi, is during their dormant season (winter). Choosing a vine for your garden You can choose from dozens of vines to adorn the sides of buildings or fences as well as ramble through your shrubs and trees. If your space is limited, look for kinds that offer something interesting during more than one season — for example, beautiful flowers in spring and handsome foliage in summer. Some vines provide handsome bark on artistically twisting branches in winter, and others offer superb autumn color. Plant encyclopedias are a good place to start digging deeper into the world of vines. You can also find a good selection of vines at botanical gardens and quality nurseries.

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

Make a wish list when you begin landscape planning and use your imagination to customize your landscape around your family’s needs. Consider rain barrels, a fire pit or fire bowl, an arbor, or even a small greenhouse. Keep digging until you have everything you want in your yard. Consider these for your wish list: Enough lawn to play catch A brick patio or wooden deck An outdoor barbecue A privacy hedge A fenced-in yard A swimming pool or spa A storage shed or potting shed A compost pile A fish pond or reflecting pool A place where butterflies and birds come to visit A private retreat with a hammock A flower-cutting garden A rose garden A fresh herb plot or scented garden A vegetable garden or fruit orchard A rooftop garden A bulb garden with flowers that announce the start of a new season A patio garden with different pots full of colorful plants Wildflowers A drought-tolerant garden

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

Landscape plants can be expensive — they're an investment for your home. So, when you buy plants for your yard, seek healthy plants that fit your landscaping needs, beautify your property, and grow well in your area’s climate. These tips will help you get the right landscaping trees, flowers, and shrubs: Plan your landscape on paper before you set out to purchase plants — you’ll know exactly how much to buy. Establish a budget before you arrive at the nursery. Choose plants suited to the amount of sun, partial shade, or shade in your garden. Avoid plants that don’t grow well in your zone. Buy plants that, when mature, are the right height, shape, and color for the scale of your landscape. Choose plants that are compact, healthy, and (if applicable) just starting to flower. Avoid weak, spindly, or insect-infested plants. Avoid buying plants that are rootbound or have outgrown their pots. Note any special conditions before purchasing plants — soil requirements, watering needs, invasiveness, smells, and messiness (especially with berries).

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

Planning your landscape helps to keep you on budget, find the right trees and plants for yous needs, and keeps you focused on your landscaping wish list. Use these steps when planning your landscape: Measure your current landscape and draw a rough plan on paper. Review your wish list. Determine your budget. Add potential structures (patio, deck, shed, bench, fence, pool, or pond) and pathways to your plan. Determine the sun, partial shade, and shade availability for each area that you plan to grow plants. Determine your hardiness zone. Add plants and trees to your plan. Check costs and availability of materials and plants. Call your local governing body and ask about permits. Enlist a landscape contractor, if necessary. Begin building and planting!

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

When choosing plants for your landscaping, be sure to select plants suited for your weather zone. Most perennials are marked with a hardiness zone to indicate the minimum temperatures it can tolerate. Note the plant's hardiness for the best growing and ability to survive the winter. Use this table to find your area’s hardiness zone: Plant Hardiness Zones for the U.S. Fahrenheit Celsius Zone 1 Below –50°F Below –46°C Zone 2 –50°F to –40°F –46°C to –40°C Zone 3 –40°F to –30°F –40°C to –34°C Zone 4 –30°F to –20°F –34°C to –29°C Zone 5 –20°F to –10°F –29°C to –23°C Zone 6 –10°F to 0°F –23°C to –18°C Zone 7 0°F to 10°F –18°C to –12°C Zone 8 10°F to 20°F –12°C to –7°C Zone 9 20°F to 30°F –7°C to –1°C Zone 10 30°F to 40°F –1°C to 4°C Zone 11 40°F and up 4°C and up

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

Growing and maintaining a lush green lawn in Canada can be a challenge. It starts with choosing the best type of grass. The best types of grasses to grow in Canada are cool-season grasses because our summers are short and our winters are cold – and usually snowy. Cool-season grasses grow actively in spring and fall, slow down in summer, and go dormant in the winter. They do best at temperatures between 16°C and 27°C (60°F and 80°F) and can survive freezing winter temperatures. The following cool-season grasses thrive in Canada’s cooler climate. Cool-Season, Northern Grasses Type of Grass Appearance Ideal Mow-to Height Description and Care Kentucky bluegrass Fine to medium texture Canoe-shaped Dark blue-green 6 to 8 cm Hardy but not drought-tolerant so water generously Disease resistant Needs more fertilizer Shallow roots make it a good showpiece lawn but unsuitable for heavy foot traffic Fescues, fine and tall Fine texture Bristle-leaved Medium green 6 to 8 cm Water deeply and infrequently (do not soak or make soggy) Shade-tolerant Tolerates foot traffic very well Can perform well in poor soil Is often mixed with other grasses Bent grass Fine texture Blades begin to bends at a couple of centimeters tall (hence the name) 3 to 4 cm Needs generous watering (weekly during the height of the growing season) Cut regularly to avoid stems from forming thick mats and thatching Popular for golf and tennis courses Use a mower with very sharp blades Perennial ryegrass Fine texture Glossy Dark green 6 to 8 cm Has shallow roots, likes consistent water Disease resistant Tolerates foot traffic well Nice in full sun or shade (but not reliably hardy) Germinates and grows quickly and is often used in blends

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

Think of your landscape plan as a tool to help you get a handle on the price tag of your project, establish your priorities, and make sure that all the separate parts of your landscape — the barbecue pit, a meditation pool, the kid’s area — are present and accounted for. Transferring dreams to paper requires more than a little imagination, but with some practice on perspective, you can tell whether your plan is an aesthetically-pleasing one. In order to draw your plan, you may want to pick up some large-size paper, a pencil, and an eraser. More complicated drawing tools help you keep your lines straight and maintain consistent sizes for the elements of your landscape. (Alternatively, you may want to invest in a computer landscape design package.) Consider using graph paper, which has a printed grid of squares that makes transferring real-life elements to a flat piece of paper much easier. You can, for example, transfer your measurements to the graph paper using a 1-foot to 1⁄4-inch ratio — a 1-foot-long line in real life covers 1⁄4 inch on graph paper. If necessary, tape sheets of graph paper together, so that your plan fits. Before you can start adding your wonderful new landscape features, you have to map what’s already there. Here’s how: Measure the lengths of all edges of your property and draw the outline of your yard on paper. Taking measurements is a pain in the neck, but you’re far ahead of the game when you get estimates for what this new design is actually going to cost. Measurements eliminate guesswork and give you the confidence of knowing that your plan will work. Invest in a 100-foot tape measure to avoid the frustration of marking off 12-foot lengths and adding them up to get a reading on your 400-foot side boundary. Enlist a helper when you’re ready to measure to make the job go quicker. If you have the original map of your property, skip the measuring and trace that. No need to reinvent the wheel. Measure and draw in the outline of your house. Be sure to place the house exactly where it sits on your lot. Measure and add any outbuildings that currently exist. After that, draw in other elements and show their locations in relation to known measurements. Measure and draw in whatever paving is already in place and that you want to keep. Don’t assume that the right angles and parallel lines that are formed by walls, fences, driveways, and property lines are always perfect. Verify the distance between objects with as many measurements as you can. Measure and draw existing fences, big trees, hedges, perennials, vegetable gardens, and any other current features you want to keep right where they are. Indicate the precise location of a tree trunk or plant by measuring the distance from it to two known points, such as two corners of the house. Go to your local copy shop and run off a half-dozen or so copies of your base plan.