Kelly D. Henthorne, Abshier House

Articles From Kelly D. Henthorne, Abshier House

6 results
6 results
How to Safety Check Your Furnace for Winter

Article / Updated 10-05-2021

Before winter arrives, the most important thing you need to do for yourself and your family is to ensure that your furnace is operational, safe, and as energy-efficient as you can make it. When that first cold day hits, you don't want to turn on the furnace only to discover that it isn't working. (A lot can happen during the warmer months to affect your furnace.) It's important to have your gas furnace checked for a possible leak of carbon monoxide, which is an odorless, colorless gas. Having carbon monoxide and radon detectors are important for everyone's safety. You can purchase these detectors at most hardware and big box, do-it-yourself stores. Call a furnace professional for a checkup No doubt about it, your best bet is to call heating, ventilation, air conditioning, and refrigeration (HVACR) professional and have them come out and inspect your furnace. During a regular maintenance inspection, the technician will clean the furnace, change the filter, check for leaks and unhealthy gases, and ensure that everything is operational. You also can (and should if you can afford it) pay them to clean the furnace ducts. © Perry Gerenday / iStockphoto.com Do-it-yourself furnace tasks Here are a few other things that you can do yourself: Change the furnace filters regularly. Some suggest every three months; others suggest monthly. At least take a look at the filter after 30 days of operation. You'll be able to tell if it needs to be changed. If your filter still looks pretty good, you can put off changing it. Stock up on filters during the warmer months. You often can find a bargain on furnace filters and other winter items during those hot summer months. Remove any items you have stored near the furnace, particularly anything that is likely to catch fire. Also remove any household items that are suddenly sitting on top of or in front of your air ducts and return vents. If you have a gas furnace, contact your gas company and have them fill'er up. Gas is certainly much cheaper to buy during the summer than in the middle of a January cold spell. If you have hot-water radiator(s), bleed the valves. Open the valves slightly and close them again when water starts to appear.

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How to Winterize Your Home's Doors and Windows

Article / Updated 12-05-2016

During the winter, you want to make sure that your doors and windows are airtight even if you enjoy the occasional cooling breeze during warmer months. Otherwise, you furnace will just be blowing money out through those cracks. You have quite a few low-cost options for sealing up those leaks: Check your window panes and storm windows for cracks and replace any that are damaged. Install those storm windows (and doors) if they aren't installed year-round. Caulk around your windows (or apply rope caulk), especially anyplace you notice a breeze slipping in. Credit: ©iStockphoto.com/BanksPhotos If you're feeling a draft but can't figure out where it's coming from, light a long candle and slowly move through your home, making sure you stop in front of all windows and doors. When you see that candle's flame moving, you've found your problem. (You can also use an incense stick and follow the smoke trail.) Apply weather stripping around your doors. This is fairly cheap to purchase at most hardware or do-it-yourself stores. Replace or switch out any door or window summer screens with their glass planes. Some people swear by window insulator kits, which are plastic coverings for their windows in the winter. You actually use plastic wrap and a blow dryer to shrink the plastic over the window and seals and then tape down the edges. This isn't very attractive and can certainly block a lot of light. If you have a basement with windows, protect them with window wells. Some of these are simply hard plastic pieces that cost less than $20. Of course, if your windows are older than 10 years or are single-paned glass, you should consider replacing them for the energy-efficient ones currently on the market. Windows are not cheap, though, and you might have to replace only the most "needy" each year.

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How to Prep Your Roof and Gutters for Winter

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

Although in some areas, roofs must be inspected regularly for wind damage, it's always important to inspect your roof and gutters before winter sets in. So, what do you look for when inspecting these items? You should check the following: Look for any loose or missing shingles and replace them. If you live in an area that gets the occasional hail storm, check your roof and gutters for dents and damage like small tears and holes. Contact your insurance company for assistance in replacing these damaged shingles. Check the flashing around the chimneys or other roof projections, which prevents melting ice and snow (or rain) from getting into your home. Add some extra insulation to your attic or upper crawlspace. This insulation will prevent the formation of ice dams on the roof. Clean the leaves and debris out of your gutters; use a hose to rinse the gutters and send water through the downspouts. You might have to use a chimney or pipe-cleaning brush to further clear the downspouts. Rake up and remove any debris that you remove from the spouts or the gutters. Credit: ©iStockphoto.com/Patrick Herrera Install leaf guards on the gutters to prevent more falling leaves from accumulating and undoing your hard work. Add extensions to your spouts to send the melting ice and snow farther away from the base of your home. Check the attic, upper crawlspace, or upstairs ceilings for stains and potential leaks. If you find any areas that look suspicious, check them again right after a rainstorm. If they feel damp, call a professional roofer or immediately repair the leaking area. If your roof is more than 15 years old, you might consider replacing all or part of it. Older roofs are expensive to replace, but the damage that a leaking roof might cause can be way more expensive.

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How to Prevent Your Plumbing from Freezing

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

If you live in an area where the temperature ever drops below freezing, even if it does so for only a few days, you need to do several things to protect your plumbing. First, make sure that you know where you water shut-off valve is — just in case you need to get to it in a hurry! If any of your pipes are exposed to the air (indoor or outdoor), wrap some insulation around them. It might not be the aesthetic look you want with your decor, but it's better than waterlogged carpets and furniture from broken pipes. Credit: ©iStockphoto.com/nsj-images This goes for pipes that are hidden, but exposed, in an under-the-sink cabinet. If you can see the pipes, you need to cover them. Insulate your hot water heater, whether it's in a cold, dank basement or stuffed in a utility closet. An easy way to insulate it is to purchase a specially made blanket at your local hardware or big box store. Or, you can use duct tape and insulation. Turn off the water supply to exterior faucets and drain them. In places where the temperature gets really low, use an insulated cover on the hose bibbs (outdoor faucets for your garden hoses). You can find some really cute covers in gardening catalogs that look like frogs or ladybugs. Or, you can use foam pipe insulation. Turn off the water supply to sprinkler systems. You also need to use compressed air to blow any water out of the lines. Otherwise, they might freeze and burst. Even if you're boarding the dog and stopping the newspaper when going on a vacation, you should leave your furnace set no lower than 55 degrees. If you are a snowbird, who lives in Florida or another warmer state during the winter months, you might need to shut off the water supply. Also drain the entire plumbing system, unless you have a caretaker of some sort coming in to check the plumbing and pipes.

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How to Prepare Your Fireplace or Woodstove for Winter

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

When winterizing their homes, most people are start with the furnace (as they should), but they often forget all those other heat-producing devices throughout their homes. Every fireplace, woodstove, or space heater should be inspected prior to the first winter usage. Do the following when checking all the fireplaces in your home: Contact a professional chimney sweep to clean out any creosote and soot that might be built up. Creosote in your chimney actually can catch fire from sparks flying upward. Inspect the damper to ensure that it opens and closes smoothly. Check the mortar around any bricks in the chimney or surround for cracks. These can cause dangerous fires if not fixed. You might need to bring in a professional if you find serious cracks in either the bricks or the mortar. Check the chimney for birds, bird nests, or other rodents. Install a cap/screen at the top that will keep them out going forward. Credit: ©iStockphoto.com/Greg Nicholas Do the following when checking any wood-burning stoves in your home: Ensure you have enough wood for your regular winter usage plus about 20 percent. If you are suddenly facing an extra-cold winter, you'll be ready for it. Any extra wood will not be wasted; you can use it next year or for your summer wiener roasts. Clean the exhaust pipe/chimney before your first usage and periodically throughout the year. You want to ensure that all ash, soot, and creosote are removed regularly. Inspect the damper to ensure that it opens and closes smoothly. Remove any flammable items from anywhere in front of the woodstove. Some people actually use their stoves to store magazines or other items during the warmer months; you want to be sure that anything like this is far away from the flames. Check the exhaust pipe/chimney for birds, bird nests, or other rodents. Install a cap/screen at the top that will keep them out going forward. Be sure to check any space heaters before you use them. First, make sure that the electrical power cord is in good shape without any breaks or tears. Also make sure that all space heaters are plugged into a grounded outlet. Do not use space heaters for large areas of your home or as your main source of heat. They can be dangerous if left running while the home is unoccupied. And, except for the newer infrared types, they can use a lot of electricity and run up your power bill.

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How to Winterize Your Foundation, Crawlspace, and Exterior

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

When preparing your home to face the cold winter months, don't forget your home's foundation, the crawlspaces, and the exterior areas. It's simple enough to begin; walk around the outside of your home and look closely for any cracks or odd holes in the foundation. Then seal up those cracks with either mortar or even an expanding foam filler (often used for areas around plumbing pipes). Continue your inspection by doing the following: Kill and remove any weeds that are against the foundation. Rake away the dead vegetation to prevent it from rotting and molding against your home. Close up any possible entry points for rodents; mice can get through very small cracks. Close and seal cellar doors as tightly as possible. Tightly close the crawlspace entrance(s). Credit: ©iStockphoto.com/slobo If you can take the tight space, you actually should crawl through the crawlspace and look for any rodent infestation or damage caused by standing water. Add insulation to the attic or upper crawlspace to help prevent ice dams from forming on the roof. Besides the foundation and crawlspaces, you should take time while outside to have a serious look around. There are several items out there that might need your attention before winter: Seal driveways, patios, and decks as needed. Cover your patio furniture. Put cushions away for the season. Drain and unplug water fountains. Bring plants inside that can't take the cold. Check the exterior of your garage and out buildings, as well, especially if any them house livestock or backyard chicken coops. Clean off the outside of your air conditioning condenser with a water hose and clean off the blades and coils. Cover your air conditioning condenser with waterproof, but breathable material. Remove any window air conditioning units. These can be stored in the garage until you need them next year. Drain the gas from your lawn mower(s) and any other outside lawn care equipment.

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