Dyeing Articles

Article / Updated 03-09-2021

Dyeing silk scarves is a fun way to use leftover dyes. It’s also a neat way to experiment with mixing colors and to explore textile surface design techniques. The two-part process described here uses silk blanks in a technique that involves immersion dyeing (in two steps) and a shibori resist technique to create pattern. Gather these materials: Four 11 x 60-inch crepe de chine silk scarf blanks An unexhausted acid dye bath Leftover acid dyes White cotton string Embroidery or small scissors Needle and thread Place the blank scarves in a warm presoak with 1⁄2 teaspoon Synthrapol. Allow them to soak for at least 1 hour. An unexhausted dye bath with a visible amount of leftover dye will dye the scarves a pale overall color. You may add more dye to the unexhausted bath to deepen the color. Add more dye in small increments (25ml at a time). Check the dye bath, making sure the pH range is between 4 and 6. Add 1 teaspoon citric acid crystals if needed. Add the scarves to the dye bath and gradually raise the temperature of the bath to 185°F (85°C). Do not let the temperature go beyond this point or it will ruin the luster of the silk. Allow the scarves to simmer for 30 minutes. When the dye bath has cooled completely, rinse the scarves in warm water. Then hang them on a rack to dry. Use a fine sewing needle and thread to make 1⁄4-inch stitches about 1 inch apart at intervals across the width of the scarf. Create gathers by pulling the cut ends of the sewing thread. Make knots at both ends of each thread so the gathers remain intact during the dye process. Place approximately 100ml acid dye with 1 tablespoon white vinegar in a locking baggie. Immerse the tied scarf in the dye. Place the baggie in a steam pot. Steam for 30 minutes to set the dye, keeping the temperature no higher than 185°F (85°C). When the scarf has cooled, carefully remove the stitches and rinse the scarf in warm water.

Step by Step / Updated 03-27-2016

Immersion dyeing is the process of creating a dye bath in a large pot, adding fiber and heating it. This method is used for dying fibers a solid color. Hand-dyed solids have rich tonal characteristics and subtle shading variations that set them apart from commercially dyed solid colors.

Step by Step / Updated 03-27-2016

In this process, you prepare to paint the dye directly onto the yarn with foam brushes to create variegated skeins. Using wool skeins with a 2-yard circumference, this technique shows how to paint skeins with distinct 6-inch color bands that form an 18-inch color pattern repeat. The color pattern repeats four times around the circumference of the skein. Using dye thickener helps maintain distinct colors.

Step by Step / Updated 03-27-2016

Now that you have your skeins prepared and soaked and dye bath prepared for dyeing your fiber a solid color. Always be sure you have the proper safety equipment and follow manufacturer instructions when dyeing.

Step by Step / Updated 03-27-2016

Once you have gathered all your tools and set up a safe dyeing space you can begin the dyeing process. Mixing dyes is part art and part science. A dyer understands not only the use of color but also the process of creating color and pairing hues to create harmonious palettes. The art of dyeing requires a basic understanding of the chemical interaction of dye materials with fibers. A grasp of basic color principles also helps in the beginning. These instructions are not for mixing fiber-reactive dye solutions using MX dyes. These are for working with acid dye stocks. You will need to experiment, but the basic dyeing process begins here:

Step by Step / Updated 03-27-2016

Dip-dyeing creates a repeating color sequence with more diffused transitions. This method is especially nice for silk yarn. Sometimes it is easier to dye a tightly twisted silk yarn to the core by submersing rather than painting with dye. It is easier to manipulate skeins of smaller circumference with this technique.

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

When hand painting yarn and fiber, at times you will want colors to remain clear and distinct and other times you will want more subtle color transitions. Sometimes dyes run together where two colors meet. This is called a color bleed, and it can be an attractive design feature in the yarn. If you don’t want your colors to run, there are several ways to make them stay put. The following suggestions help you achieve the results you want. Maintain distinct colors in your fibers Several products can be used to thicken dyes. Dye thickener stops colors from bleeding. They add an extra step and expense to the process, and you must wash the fibers thoroughly after dyeing to remove all traces of the thickener. Guar gum and sodium alginate: These thickeners that can be added to dye solutions. The more thickener you add, the less the color will bleed. Guar gum and sodium alginate come in powdered form. They must be thoroughly mixed with water before use and work best if made at least one day in advance. Guar gum works with acid dyes and sodium alginate is used with fiber-reactive dyes. Superclear: Sold by Dharma Trading Company, Superclear is a ready-made thickening product that is colorless. A resist is a material used to mask areas of yarn or fiber that you want to preserve as undyed. When dyeing yarn or roving, you can use the type of resist tape sold for tie-dyeing fabric. Tightly bind and tie the sections of the roving or yarn that are to remain undyed and then apply color to the rest of the skein or hank. The resist tape can remain on the fiber right through the steaming process. Working on dripping-wet yarn increases the likelihood that the colors will run together and become muddy. Use the spin cycle on your washing machine to remove excess water from the fiber after the presoak. Let the fiber sit for 5 minutes before applying colors. The fiber will still be damp, but when you paint on the color (especially if you use a foam brush), the colors will stay put. Adding citric acid crystals to the dye solution increases acidity and causes the dye to strike as soon as it makes contact with the fiber. For some of the processes described in this chapter, you will add acid directly to the dyes. Blend colors when hand-painting fiber or yarn When adjacent colors interact in hand-painted fiber, the results can be surprisingly lovely, since new colors emerge wherever two colors interact. Here are some ways to encourage that effect: Make sure the two adjacent colors form an appealing color when they blend. If red and green overlap to make brown, for example, is that really what you want? Do not remove quite as much water from the skeins after the soak. The water will allow the colors to spread a bit more. Paint adjacent colors close together or overlap adjacent colors. Keep a spray bottle of water on your worktable. Lightly spray the fiber to encourage colors to bleed. When hand-painting yarn, you must consider the gauge of the yarn, its intended use, and the desired color effect. These factors may influence your color choices and the method in which you apply them. Whenever possible, make a sample skein and knit a test swatch in the gauge of your final project to make sure you’re satisfied with how the color pattern translates into the stitch pattern and gauge. If you want to create a pair of socks, a scarf, or a sweater from yarn that has horizontal color stripes in a repeating pattern, you will need to dye your yarn with color repeats of sufficient length to knit at least two rows of the pattern. For a pair of socks made from fingering-weight yarn, that means painting bands of color that are at least 60 inches (23.6cm) long. Painting self-striping yarn for a sweater would be very tricky, since the yardage needed to knit two rows would be considerably more.

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

When you are hand-dyeing, depth of shade refers to the desired value (lightness or darkness) of the dyed fiber. It is expressed as a percentage indicating the weight of dye powder in relation to the weight of the fiber. Using the metric system and 1% (or 0.1%) dye stocks makes it easy to calculate how much dye is needed to dye fiber to a particular depth of shade. Whether you are knitting a pair of socks or a cabled sweater, the ability to choose any yarn and dye it any color greatly expands your design options. For hand-spinners, the range of choices becomes more exciting when you dye your own fibers for crafting yarn. Weavers can work magic by creating bold or subtle color effects at the loom. Hand-painted warps create exciting ikat-like stripes in scarves and runners. Semisolid yarns add depth and texture to clasped-weft designs. The formula for calculating how much dye stock to use is: Weight of dye goods (fiber) × depth of shade ÷ strength of dye stock = amount of dye stock To dye 1 pound of fiber (454 grams) to a 1% depth of shade using a 1% dye stock: 454 × 1 = 454 454 ÷ 1 = 454 ml of 1% dye stock If you want a deeper color value (let’s say a darker 2% depth of shade), change the numbers: 454 × 2 = 908 ml of 1% dye stock 908 ml ÷ 1 = 908 ml of 1% dye stock For a pastel shade of the same color using a 1% dye stock: 454 × 0.1 = 45.4 45.4 ÷ 1 = 45.4 ml of 1% dye stock You also use a weaker dye solution, a 0.1% dye stock, to obtain a paler value: 454 × 0.1 = 45.4 45.4 ÷ 0.1 = 454 ml of 0.1% dye stock Wear rubber, latex, or nitrile gloves when mixing dye solutions or when adding substances like salt or acid crystals to a dye bath. When hand-painting yarn, protect your hands from direct contact with liquid dye. If you do get dye stains on your hands or fingernails, you can use a special hand cleanser called ReDuRan (available from dye suppliers) to remove it. When working with a simmering dye bath, wear insulated thermal gloves designed especially for dyers. Use hot mitts when handling hot cooking tools. Sometimes you soak fibers in a citric acid or alkaline solution before dyeing. These solutions are caustic and will sting if the liquid gets on your skin. Wear long gloves to protect your hands and arms. WashFast dyes offer a range of pure colors that can be used interchangeably for mixing a wide range of colors. The primaries that come closest to a “true” red, yellow, and blue are Bright Red 351, Sun Yellow 119, and Brilliant Blue 490. Here are some tips for working with WashFast Colors: WashFast Reds range from electric pinks (Magenta and Rhodamine Red) to more orange tones (Bright Red). The WashFast Reds are Magenta 338, Fuchsia 349, Bright Red 351, Red 366, and Rhodamine Red 370. WashFast Yellows vary from having a slight green undertone (Flavine Yellow) to more of a gold undertone (Gold Yellow). The WashFast Yellows are Flavine Yellow 107A, Sun Yellow 119, Yellow 135, and Golden Yellow 199c. WashFast dyes hold many options for blues, ranging from the basic blues — Brilliant Blue 490 or Bright Blue 440 — or any of the hues in this extended blue family: Violet 817, National Blue 425c, Forest Green 725, Turquoise 478, Colonial Blue 401, or Navy 413. It takes time and practice working with primary colors to capture the exact shades you want. Dye companies offer a wide range of preformulated custom colors that take the guesswork out of mixing colors for an exact shade. This is a huge advantage if you don’t have the time to experiment. Ready-made colors are proprietary blends of other dye colors in powder form. You can tell if a color is a blend by dampening a paper towel and gently tapping a tiny amount of dye powder from a spoon onto the damp paper. If a dye is made of component colors, you will see multicolored speckles on the paper. If a color is pure, the particles of dye on the filter paper will all be the same color. Be sure to wear a filter mask when doing this. Adding black to primary hues creates shades that are more subdued. In general, you use black in the same strength stock solution as the color to which you are adding it. Achieving a solid black color requires mixing a very deep depth of shade.

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

Learning how to dye fiber opens the door to an exciting new realm of color for your knitted, crocheted, or hand-woven creations. It’s easier and safer to work with dyes in liquid form, whether you are using acid or fiber-reactive dyes. Because inhaling dye powder poses a risk, mixing it with water to form dye stocks (also called dye solutions) makes color mixing safer. Liquid dye stock is also easier to measure using plastic syringes, beakers, and graduated cylinders. Acid dye solutions are prepared with boiling water. Fiber-reactive dye solutions are generally mixed at room temperature. Acid dye stocks can be stored and used later. Reactive dyes have a shorter shelf life once mixed. You need the following tools and materials for mixing dye stock: 4-cup (1,000ml) Pyrex measuring cup Measuring spoons Digital scale Small spoons or stirring sticks Boiling water (for acid dyes) Room-temperature water (for fiber-reactive dyes) Powdered dye Sponges Paper towels Dye mixing box To make a mixing box for preparing dye solutions, turn a medium-sized box on its side and remove the lid. Line the box with newspaper or paper towels; spray them with water to dampen lightly. Do all your measuring and mixing inside the box, which serves as a hood, minimizing the chance of dye particles becoming airborne. The dampened paper absorbs any spilled powder. Take every precaution to avoid inhaling dye powder. Always wear a new dust particle mask for each mixing session. Minimize air movement (close windows, turn off fans) while measuring and mixing. Replace lids firmly on dye powder jars immediately after measuring. Wear rubber gloves and safety glasses, and keep children and pets out of your workspace. Never eat or drink while preparing dyes. Label all stock solutions clearly. The necessary auxiliary supplies depend on which dye process you use: Synthrapol, a pH-neutral surfactant used for soaking fibers and removing residual dye Glauber salt, a salt used instead of common table salt to level dyes Citric acid crystals or white vinegar (for acid dyes) Soda ash (for fiber-reactive dyes) Urea, used as a humectant with fiber-reactive dyes Dye thickeners, such as guar gum or Superclear Metaphos, a water softener (if you have hard water) You may also need the following: Paper towels Newspapers (for covering surfaces) Plastic wrap Zipper-sealed plastic bags Vinyl or plastic table covers Plastic milk jugs with caps (for storing dye solutions) Undyed cotton string White coffee filter papers Pen and notepad After a tool, vessel, or other piece of equipment has been used for dyeing, it should never be used for food preparation again. Label all dyeing tools clearly “FOR DYEING ONLY” so they are never accidentally used for food. Furthermore, you must never use dye materials while food is being prepared, and never eat or drink while dyeing.

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

Dyeing is a fun, creative process, yet dyers must take safety seriously. Dye materials are safe to use as long as you follow the supplier’s instructions and some basic precautionary guidelines. The misuse or mishandling of dyes and materials used in dyeing could lead to harmful results such as allergic reactions if the dye comes in contact with your skin or if you inhale dye powder. If you are pregnant or lactating, consult the dye supplier regarding safety. Protect your skin: Wear rubber, latex, or nitrile gloves when mixing dye solutions or when adding substances like salt or acid crystals to a dye bath. When hand-painting yarn, protect your hands from direct contact with liquid dye. If you do get dye stains on your hands or fingernails, you can use a special hand cleanser called ReDuRan (available from dye suppliers) to remove it. When working with a simmering dye bath, wear insulated thermal gloves designed especially for dyers. Use hot mitts when handling hot cooking tools. If you soak fibers in a citric acid or alkaline solution before dyeing, wear long gloves to protect your hands and arms. Protect your lungs: Wear a particle filter mask when handling dye powders or any powdered dye material. You should also wear a dual cartridge respirator mask filled with acid gas cartridges to protect your lungs from irritation caused by the acid vapors of simmering dye baths. Check with your dye supply company to be sure you use the correct type of mask. When mixing dye powders, turn off fans and close windows to avoid air movement. Cover your work surface with paper towels, and lightly dampen the paper with water from a spray bottle to trap any loose dye particles that spill before they become airborne. You also can create a mixing box lined with dampened paper. When cooking your dye baths, good ventilation is important. Turn on vent fans and open a window. Protect your Eyes. Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes whenever you are working in the dye studio. Never eat, drink, or prepare food while you are working with dyes. Dyes and materials associated with dyeing should be stored in a cool, dry space out of direct sunlight and out of reach of children. Use air-tight containers for storing all powders and liquids. Always replace lids tightly after using dye powders and chemicals. Label all items clearly, and note the date purchased or mixed. Use plastic rather than glass jars for storing liquid dyes, since breakage would cause quite a mess. Dye solutions made from acid dye powders (such as PRO Chem’s WashFast or Cushing dyes) can be stored in plastic containers for up to six months, as long as acid has not been added to the dye solution. Fiber-reactive dye solutions do not store well for long periods. It is important to prepare only as much dye as you will use. Leftover reactive dyes from hand-painting projects are usable within 5 days of mixing. When you are completely finished with an acid dye bath, you should neutralize the bath. Add baking soda 1 tablespoon at a time and use pH test papers to verify that the exhausted bathwater is neutralized. Then pour the exhausted dye bath down the drain, flushing with plenty of water. Disposing of unexhausted fiber-reactive dye baths is less simple. You can’t use any leftover dye that the yarn hasn’t absorbed because the dye molecules have actually hydrolized (bonded with the water molecules) and therefore can no longer bond with fiber. If you have unexhausted dye in the pot, you must balance the pH. A fiber-reactive dye bath is basic; add citric acid crystals 1 tablespoon at a time until you have brought the bath to a neutral pH before disposal. Check the supplier’s instructions for the safest method of disposal. Some dye companies suggest pouring the neutralized bath down the drain, using plenty of water. If you have a bath with a lot of leftover dye, another option is to store it in plastic jugs. Most communities have clean-up days where they will collect household chemicals. Be sure you label the contents of the containers.