Steve Ettlinger

Article / Updated 10-23-2023

The first beer brewed by American colonists was at Sir Walter Raleigh’s Roanoke colony in 1587. The beer must not have been very good, though, because Colonists continued to request shipments of beer from England. (Unfortunately, most of the ships’ consignments of beer were drunk on the transatlantic crossing by thirsty sailors.) And in 1609, colonists placed America’s first help-wanted ad in a London paper, asking for brewers to come to America. Rather than continue on to their destination in Virginia, the pilgrims on the Mayflower made their landing at Plymouth Rock for lack of beer. A December 19, 1620, entry in the diary of a Mayflower passenger tells the story: “We could not now take time for further search or consideration, our victuals being much spent, especially our beere.” Beer was far more healthful than the impure water sources available to American colonists. Dr. Benjamin Rush, a noted physician and a signer of the Declaration of Independence, wrote, “Beer is a wholesome liquor compared with spirits. It abounds with nourishment. . . . While I wish to see a law imposing the heaviest taxes on whiskey distilleries, I should be glad to see breweries wholly exempt from taxation.” (Amen!) Breweries in the New World were among the first businesses established. American breweries preexisted American government; some of the breweries’ staunchest supporters were also the leaders of the new nation. In colonial America, the alehouse was second only to the church in importance. Aside from being where the brewer plied his trade, the tavern also served as the unofficial town hall and the social and political focal point of every town. It was here that the townsfolk gathered to deliberate and debate, to socialize and share news and information with the community. To the colonists, the alehouses were cradles of liberty; while to the British, the alehouses were hotbeds of sedition. As early as 1768, the Sons of Liberty were holding meetings at the Liberty Tree Tavern in Providence; the Green Dragon Inn in Boston was called the headquarters for the revolution. George Washington made his headquarters at Fraunces Tavern in New York, where it still stands and serves beer, now in the heart of the financial district. Most of the early breweries were small, house-based operations. Traditional ingredients, hard to come by in the New World, were often replaced with maize, molasses, bran, persimmons, potatoes, spruce twigs, birch bark, ginger, and allspice. The first real brewery in the New World was founded in New Amsterdam (New York) in 1633. Boston’s first brewery debuted in 1637 and was a favorite among colonial leaders, who believed that beer was a moderate alternative to distilled spirits. The city of Philadelphia got its first brewery in 1685 (but made up for lost time, as Philadelphia has had more breweries in its history than any other U.S. city). This date is confirmed by an entry in the diary of William Penn, who was a brewer himself. Historians have studied Penn’s ledgers and concluded that he ran malt and brewhouses at his Pennsbury mansion in Pennsylvania’s Bucks County. As the United States became an instant magnet for people looking to start a new life, breweries opened as quickly as each ethnic enclave settled. Throughout the 1800s, most of the arrivals came from the beer belt countries of northern Europe (Ireland, Germany, Poland, Czechoslovakia, the Netherlands — the majority of brewers were of Irish and German origin), and with them came the knowledge of brewing and an appreciation for the craft. In 1840, about 140 breweries were operating in the United States, at least 1 in each of the 13 original colonies. Annual output totaled about 200,000 barrels. The American brewing industry boasted as many as 1,400 breweries by 1914 and employed more than 75,000 people.

Article / Updated 07-21-2023

The mellow, flavorful Brown Ale can be a delightful addition to a rich, hearty garlic and onion soup. You can roast additional heads of garlic for future use: Simply freeze the unpeeled heads in a well-sealed container for up to six months. Prep time: About 10 min Cook time: About 1-1/4 hr Yield: 4–5 servings 3 large heads garlic 1-1/2 teaspoons olive oil 4 tablespoons butter 4 large yellow onions, thinly sliced 2 large shallots, thinly sliced (optional) 1 tablespoon sugar 1 teaspoon salt 5 cups beef or vegetable stock (preferably homemade) 1-1/2 teaspoons thyme or your favorite herb 2 tablespoons unbleached all-purpose flour 1 12-ounce bottle English Brown Ale 1 cup croutons and 1-1/2 cup fresh grated cheese (Gruyère, Kaseri, or smoked provolone) Strip off the majority of the papery skin on the outside of the garlic heads; cut the tip end off each head of garlic to expose cloves. Place the garlic heads on a square of foil, and drizzle each cut end with 1/2 teaspoon olive oil; seal the foil. Place the garlic heads on a baking dish and bake in a 375-degree oven for 35 minutes or until the packet feels very soft when squeezed lightly. Cool and then pop cloves out of their papery skins; set aside. While the garlic is baking, heat butter in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add onions and shallots, cooking until translucent, about 5 minutes. Add sugar and salt to the onion mixture, continuing to cook until mixture is caramel-gold, about 4 minutes. While the onion mixture cooks to caramel-gold, heat stock in a separate saucepan over medium-high heat until liquid is simmering; lower heat to maintain simmer. Sprinkle herbs and flour over the onion mixture, stirring well. Cook 3 minutes, and then pour the hot broth over the onion mixture, stirring constantly. Mash roasted garlic with a fork. Add garlic and ale to soup and simmer for 30 minutes. Preheat broiler. Ladle soup into heat-proof bowls and top each one with enough croutons to just cover (amount will vary, depending on how wide your bowl is) and a generous sprinkling of cheese (3 to 4 tablespoons per serving). Run under a hot broiler briefly to melt and bubble cheese. Per serving: Calories 349 (From Fat 174); Fat 19g (Saturated 10g); Cholesterol 46mg; Sodium 1,948mg; Carbohydrate 31g (Dietary Fiber 3g); Protein 14g.

Article / Updated 07-21-2023

Religious orders have been brewing beer in Europe since the Middle Ages. These monastic brews are always widely praised and prized but often misunderstood — mostly due to their origins. Many people believe that monastic brews are both rare and of high potency. Though some are, indeed, rare and many can pack a punch, the exquisite brews made by the Cistercian, Benedictine, and Trappist orders can’t be so easily defined. Most of the monastic beer styles are very old, and, thus, are ales, but at least one is born of lager parentage. Irrespective of their classification on the beer family tree, monastic brews are older examples of how beer gets to be extreme. The origins of Dubbels, Tripels, and Quadrupels Historically, monks throughout Europe produced only a beer of modest alcohol level, also known as table beer, that was regularly consumed with their meals. In preparation for special events or holidays, they’d also brew a beer, or beers, of greater strength — a Dubbel or Tripel or whatever they had in mind. Eventually, these bigger beers were sold to the public, while the least potent was still reserved for in-house consumption. The simple and easy way to distinguish between the beers was to call the table beer a Single, with the beers of increasing gravity and strength becoming Dubbel and Tripel respectively. It was just a matter of time before a Quadrupel was added to the monks’ brewing repertoire. The creation of Doppelbock Italian monks from the order of Saint Francis of Paula and living in Bavaria took Bock Beer a step further by creating a whole new style of beer known as Doppelbock (double bock). Doppelbock wasn’t brewed for the sake of ego or greed but out of need. The brothers of Saint Francis wanted to brew a beer that not only quenched their thirst but also sated their hunger during the long Lenten period of fasting that precedes the Easter holiday. Due to its grain base and high carbohydrate content, Doppelbock is referred to as liquid bread for a good reason. The monks at Saint Francis of Paula were given permission to sell their beers to the public in 1780. After word of their malty and spirituous brews spread, the monks and their beer became famous. Denizens of Munich are credited with calling the beer style Doppelbock, but the monks named it Salvator in reverence to The Saviour. Eventually, the monastery and its brewery were sold to a private brewing company that to this day goes by the name Paulaner. Munich’s Starkbierfest (strong beer fest) is a springtime festival based on Doppelbock that’s said to be even better than that city’s Oktoberfest. Starkbierfest takes place when the weather is cooler and the tourists are scarce. If you’re into beer and Bavarian culture, this is the time to be in Munich. Because it’s tied to the church calendar, the dates of Starkbierfest vary from year to year. The season begins on the third Friday after Ash Wednesday and runs three weeks — three of the best weeks in beerdom.

Article / Updated 07-10-2023

Because beer is widely available in a variety of different styles, describing it isn’t as easy as it used to be. Knowing a handful of colorful beer descriptors comes in handy when discussing beer with others. Here’s a sample list to get you started: Aggressive: Boldly assertive aroma and/or taste Balanced: Malt and hops in similar proportions; equal representation of malt sweetness and hop bitterness in the flavor — especially at the finish Complex: Multidimensional; many flavors and sensations on the palate Crisp: Highly carbonated; effervescent Diacetyl: Buttery or butterscotchy aroma or flavor Estery: Fruity aromas Floral: Full of aromas reminiscent of flowers Fruity: Flavors reminiscent of various fruits Hoppy: Herbal, earthy, spicy, or citric aromas and flavors of hops Malty: Grainy, caramel-like; can be sweet or dry Roasty/toasty: Malt (roasted grain) flavors Robust: Rich and full-bodied The following are two other terms commonly used to describe a beer, but they don’t describe taste: Mouthfeel is the tactile sensory experience of the whole inside of the mouth and throat — warmth (alcohol) in the throat, dryness, carbonation, and so on — and includes a sense of body. Body describes the sensation of fullness, or viscosity, of a beer on the palate, ranging from watery to creamy; beer is generally described as thin-, light-, medium-, or full-bodied.

Article / Updated 06-06-2023

Most beer drinkers tend to drink just a couple different beer styles without straying too far off the beaten path. But to fully understand and appreciate the wider spectrum of beer styles, here are a few types of beers that every beer drinker should taste at least once: Belgian Fruit Lambic: Well-aged ale with surprising, effusive fruit aroma and taste; intoxicating fragrance Doppelbock: Strong, dark, and caramel-like Bock Beer with two times the flavor and body of Bock (doppel your pleasure, doppel your fun) Imperial Stout: Dark, rich, and creamy Stout with complex grain flavors; a brew to chew Rauchbier: Oktoberfest beer made with a portion of beechwood-smoked malt; delicious and unique but takes somewhat of an acquired taste (great with smoked cheese or sausage) Witbier: Perfumy Belgian Wheat Beer made with orange rind and coriander seed; like nothing else in the beer world Certain brands of beer have become synonymous with distinctly different flavor profiles. The following short list includes some of the more famous brands along with a couple others that are still cultivating a following. True beer lovers should taste all of them at least once. Guinness Stout (Ireland): Dark, dry, smooth, and roasty, with a creamy head; the perfect sipping pint Pilsner Urquell (Czech Republic): Crisp and hoppy with a touch of malty sweetness; the original, classic Pilsner beer Rodenbach Grand Cru (Belgium): Sharply sour but refreshing, with fresh fruity notes; beer masquerading as Burgundy wine Samichlaus (Austria): Incredibly malty-rich and spirited; a terrific tipple for the Christmas holidays Samuel Adams Utopias (United States): Throat-warming malt complexity with hints of oak, like no beer you’ve ever had; that’s why you sip it like a brandy

Cheat Sheet / Updated 01-10-2023

Quality beer is widely available and relatively inexpensive, but choosing among all the various styles can be a little confusing without some help. A little beer knowledge can turn a daunting experience into an enjoyable one. Start with a list of handy beer descriptors, along with some great beer styles and brands to try. Then check out some pointers for buying, serving, tasting, evaluating, and dining with beer.

Article / Updated 07-26-2022

Although vintage wines and aged spirits can boast of a long companionship with haute cuisine, beer — until recently in some places — is often relegated to the backyard barbecue. But that’s wrong. Beer is only for thirst quenching as much as computers are only for number crunching and sports are only for boys. Get with it, folks; beer is for dining, too! Although it may have taken restaurateurs, gourmands, and culinary artistes forever to catch on to the concept of beer and food pairings, now that they have, it’s a hot ticket. And why not? Beer is considered the world’s most popular beverage, with craft beer increasing in popularity every day. After far too many years, the outlook for beer drinkers is rosé, or... rosy. Thanks to the enthusiasm of brewers, restaurateurs, and consumers of flavorful craft-brews, beer has reclaimed its rightful place on our dinner tables. Good craft-brewed beer can be much more interesting than wine. It’s cool and refreshing and, depending on the style, can be much richer, more complex, and more flavorful than wine. Plus, if you have an average person’s budget and capacity, you’ll find that tasting several different beers during a meal is preferable to tasting several different wines. Guessing at general guidelines Within the sometimes intimidating world of wine and food, even the neophytes can lean on the old red meat–red wine axiom in a pinch. But beer drinkers have no such axiomatic, general guideline to fall back on, because none exists. And few people have a good enough grasp on the various beer styles and flavor profiles to easily make choices. Actually, you’ll find it hard to go wrong when matching beer and food. What’s fun is trying to do better than not going wrong. Every kind of food, conceivably, has an appropriate beer to accompany it. The beauty of beer is in its versatility. You can usually find a beer style that’s a natural match for a given food. Beer even works better than wine with some dishes, such as especially spicy or sour ones. And slightly acidic beers are great foils for rich foods. Substituting beer for wine The lager beer category is the white wine equivalent. When compared with ales, lagers have the following characteristics: Generally lighter in body and color Narrower flavor profile and a high degree of drinkability (that is, tend to appeal to a wider audience) The ale category is the red wine equivalent. When compared with lagers, ales have these qualities: Typically darker Rounder, more robust and expressive Wider flavor profile and, thus, a lower drinkability (that is, tend to appeal to those with a more experienced beer palate) Just to keep you on your toes, keep in mind that these guidelines are really general — dark and full-bodied lagers exist just as surely as do light and mild ales. Next time you’re about to go grape out of habit, consider a brew instead. This table offers a few good ideas. Beer Substitutions for Wine Wine Suggested Beer Substitute Dry white wine Blonde Ale, Kölsch, or German Pils Dry red wine Fruit Lambic or Flanders Red Beer Champagne Light and spritzy Witbier, Lambic, or Berliner Weisse Brandy Spirituous Barleywine or Old Ale Port wine Intensely flavored Russian Imperial Stout Keep in mind that these suggested substitutions aren’t trading taste for taste but style for style. In other words, don’t expect the Imperial Stout to taste like a port wine; it’s simply serving the same enjoyable purpose as a rich and spirited after-dinner libation.

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

To fully enjoy your beer-drinking experience, it helps to follow a few simple serving suggestions. Here are some very simple and easy ways to increase your beer enjoyment: Make sure the beer is at proper serving temperature. Lighter bodied and lighter colored beers can be served cold (40 to 44 degrees Fahrenheit, 4 to 6 degrees Celsius), but darker beers should be served a bit warmer (44 to 48 degrees Fahrenheit, 6 to 9 degrees Celsius). High octane brews can even be served at room temperature. Always pour the beer into a (clean) glass. Doing so releases a lot of the CO2, which increases the beer’s aromatics while reducing your carbonation intake (and, thus, your aromatics). Though not absolutely essential, using certain beer glasses, such as Pilsner glasses, Weissbier glasses, wine flutes, and brandy snifters, can enhance your sipping experience.

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

To ensure that you always get the most bang for your beer buck, keep these tips in mind when buying beer. Remember that freshness in beer is as important as freshness in bread. Don’t buy bottled beer that’s coated in a layer of dust and/or has any flakes, chunks, or floaters in it. Always consume beer from growlers before it goes flat — usually in the first 24 to 36 hours. Look for freshness dates and buy only beer that isn’t past the freshness date. If you have the choice, buy beer that’s refrigerated rather than beer that’s sitting on a shelf. Don’t buy beer that is or has been sitting in the sun.

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

Drinking beer is easy, but evaluating it as you drink requires a little more diligence. Here’s a good step-by-step process to evaluate beer like a pro: Purposely pour the beer to create at least two fingers depth of head in the glass. Creating a decent head also creates a fuller aromatic bouquet. Experience the beer’s aroma first because aromatics dissipate quickly. Look at the beer’s color and clarity. The color and clarity of beer changes from style to style, so don’t expect all beers to look the same. When tasting the beer, try to discern the various flavors of the primary ingredients — malt, hops, yeast, and so on. Note fruitiness and warmth (if any). In addition, pay attention to whether the beer is sweet, dry, or acidic, as well as where those flavors are experienced (foretaste, midtaste, aftertaste). Determine the body and texture of the beer. The body may be full, medium, or thin; texture may be watery, creamy, chewy, gassy, and so on. Reflect on the beer. After tasting the beer and discerning its various flavors, aromas, and textures, decide whether the various parts of the beer work harmoniously to create an enjoyable beverage.