Organic Gardening Articles

Article / Updated 03-30-2022

Insect and disease killers that come from plant extracts are called botanical pesticides or botanicals. Although derived from natural sources, botanicals are not necessarily safer or less toxic to non-pest insects, humans, and animals than synthetically derived pesticides. In fact, most botanicals are broad-spectrum insecticides, which kill both good and bad bugs indiscriminately. Some botanicals cause allergic reactions in people, others are highly toxic to fish and animals, and some may even cause cancer. All pesticides — including botanicals — should be used only as a last resort after thoroughly reading the label on the package. The pesticides in this section are listed from least to most toxic to humans. Hot pepper wax and powder: The chemical capsaicin causes the heat in hot peppers and it's the active ingredient in these useful botanical products. In low doses, such as found in ready-to-use sprays and dusts, hot pepper wax repels most common insect pests from vegetables and ornamental plants. It doesn't cause the fruit or vegetables to become spicy hot, but instead stays on the surface of the plant where it remains effective for up to three weeks. Stronger commercial formulations kill insects as well as repel them. Hot pepper wax is even reportedly effective in repelling rabbits and tree squirrels. Neem: This pesticide is made from the seeds of the tropical neem tree, Azadirachta indica, and it comes in two forms — azadirachtin solution and neem oil. Unlike the other botanical insecticides in this section, neem does not poison insects outright. Instead, when insects eat the active ingredient, it interrupts their ability to develop and grow to their next life stage or lay eggs. It also deters insects from feeding and is effective against aphids, thrips, fungus gnats, caterpillars, beetles, leafminers, and others. Amazingly, plants can absorb neem so that any insects that feed on them may be killed or deterred from feeding. Neem breaks down in the presence of sun and soil within a week or so. To discourage insects from eating your plants, spray neem before you see a large infestation. The product Safer BioNeem contains azadirachtin solution. Neem oil, the other seed extract, also works against some plant leaf diseases, such as black spot on roses, powdery mildew, and rust diseases. Mix the syrupy solution with a soapy emulsifier to help it spread and stick to the plants. The neem oil products called Rose Defense and Fruit & Vegetable Defense (from Green Light) control insects, mites, and leaf diseases. Pyrethrins: These insecticidal compounds occur naturally in the flowers of some species of chrysanthemum plants. The toxins penetrate the insects' nervous system, quickly causing paralysis. In high enough doses or in combination with other pesticides, the insects die. Powerful synthetic compounds that imitate the natural chrysanthemum compounds are called pyrethroids. Pyrethroids are not approved for use in organic farms and gardens. Also avoid any pyrethrins that list "piperonyl butoxoid" on the label. This additive is not approved for organic use. The compound breaks down rapidly when exposed to sun and air and becomes less effective if stored for longer than one year. Many commercial products contain pyrethrins. Although relatively harmless to humans, pyrethrins are very highly toxic to fish and bees and moderately toxic to birds. It kills both beneficial and pest insects. To keep bees safe, spray pyrethrins in the evening after bees have returned to their hives for the night and avoid spraying blooming plants. Ryania: This pesticide comes from the tropical Ryania speciosa plant. Although it controls fruit and codling moths, corn earworm, European corn borer, and citrus thrips, it is also moderately toxic to humans, fish, and birds. It is very toxic to dogs. Seek other botanical pesticides before considering ryania. Sabadilla: Made from the seeds of a tropical plant, sabadilla is a powerful broad-spectrum insect killer. It's especially useful for controlling thrips, aphids, flea beetles, and tarnished plant bugs, but it also kills bees and other beneficial insects, and some people have severe allergic reactions to the chemical. Use it only as a last resort.

Article / Updated 08-10-2021

Compost is material, usually made up of yard waste and food scraps, containing nutrients that improve your soil. You can buy it, but making your own compost saves money. The process isn't complicated, and commercial composting bins and containers on the market make composting a mess-free, hassle-free process. When you make compost, you create a pile of material to be composted, mix the materials thoroughly at the correct ratios of carbon and nitrogen and keep the pile watered just enough to keep it moist but with enough air to breathe. Using this method, you can enjoy finished compost in a month or two. How to build a good compost pile A well-constructed and well-maintained compost pile provides the proper amount of water and oxygen for aerobic bacteria, which work quickly, generating heat as a byproduct of their activity. This heat helps material break down quickly and kills many diseases, insects, and weed seeds. Here are the steps on how to build a compost pile: Choose a shady location that's out of the way. The soil under the site should be well drained. Make (or buy) a bin. You can build your own or buy a commercial home composting unit. Make a simple wooden bin. Commercial composters make composting easy. Add dry materials. Add a 6-inch layer of dry organic matter, such as hay, straw, old leaves, or untreated sawdust, to the bottom of the container. Add fresh materials. Add a 2- to 3-inch layer of fresh organic matter, such as grass clippings, manure, table scraps, or even high-nitrogen fertilizer like cottonseed meal, on top of the dry layer. Keep adding these layers, watering each one as you go, until the pile is 4 to 5 feet tall and fills the bin. A smaller pile won't heat up well enough to break down the materials, and a larger pile can be difficult to manage. In two days, mix the layers thoroughly. Particle size should be varied; smaller particles hasten decomposition. Cover the pile with a tarp to preserve moisture. The pile will start to cook within a week. Keep the pile moist by watering it periodically. Dig into the pile about 1 foot to see whether it's moist. If not, water the pile thoroughly, but not so much that it's soggy. Turn the pile when it cools down. Using a garden fork, remove the outside layers and put them aside. Remove the inside layers into another pile and then switch. Place the outside layers in the center of the new pile and the inside layers along the outside of the new pile. Loosen any matted clumps. Let it cook again. When the pile is cool, turn it again. You should have finished compost after two to three turnings. The finished product should be cool and crumbly, with a dark color and earthy smell. What goes into a compost pile, and what doesn't What you put in the compost pile is up to you. Here's a short list of possibilities: Hay, straw, pine needles, leaves, yard trimmings, and weeds Kitchen scraps (eggshells, old bread, vegetable and fruit scraps) Manure from non-meat eaters (poultry, horse, cow, rabbit, sheep, goat) Sawdust and small wood chips Shredded newspaper Not everything can go into a compost pile. Don't add Sawdust Fish or meat scraps Fatty or oily scraps Charcoal ash Manure from meat-eaters (human, dog, cat, lizard) Pressure-treated wood, chemically treated wood Weeds with mature seed heads Diseased plants or trimmings

Cheat Sheet / Updated 03-27-2016

If you're considering organic gardening, take a look at the benefits of making the switch to a more earth-friendly way to cultivate your yard. To ensure healthy-growing plants, survey your property to find which plants are best suited for your landscape and garden, and check out non-toxic ways to control pests and fertilize organically.

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

Homegrown fruits and vegetables grow best in fertile soil. It’s important, though, to keep the fertilizers natural in order to avoid introducing potentially harmful chemicals into the environment. Compost is one of the best, most eco-friendly fertilizers there is — and if you make it yourself, it’s even free! If your soil is a bit low on nutrients, you can add them quickly by using blood and bone meal (which is crushed or ground blood and bone); rock potash, compost, or liquid fertilizer from nature; seaweed or fish emulsion; or a wormery. Your local garden center or nursery can advise you about your soil type and how to enrich it. A more long-term and natural way to fertilize your garden is with compust. Compost is decayed organic material that you use as a fertilizer for your garden soil and growing plants. It’s made from anything that can rot naturally and break down with the help of the microscopic organisms that live in it. Composting materials include leaves, grass cuttings, sheets of newspaper, wood chips, fruit and vegetable scraps, coffee grounds, and straw-based manure. If you pile your organic material for composting into a heap in the garden or put it into a composting bin (which you can get from a garden center), it eventually decays and becomes brown and crumbly. When you dig it into your garden soil, it adds nutrients and makes the soil richer and easier to work with. If you don’t have enough of your own compost to start, you can buy compost, preferably the organic variety if you’re growing organic fruits and vegetables. Whether homemade or store-bought, compost puts back into the soil some of the nutrients that plants take out. It helps your soil do a better job for the growing plants by: Allowing the soil to hold moisture (which also means that you can do less watering) Stopping nutrients leaching out of the soil, which means plants get more of the nutrients they need Keeping the soil healthy and reducing the likelihood of soil-borne disease When fertilizing your garden, resist the temptation to use any materials based on peat. Peat can’t be replanted and regrown quickly, so it’s not considered sustainable. Ask your garden center for green alternatives or make your own compost.

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

Going natural in your yard is worth it to give your yard a life free of toxic and harmful chemicals. Not only do you limit your children’s exposure to these chemicals when they’re in the yard, but you also don’t track the chemicals indoors on your feet or let them blow in through the windows. Just realize that it may take seasons rather than days to eliminate weeds, for example. Rather than use chemicals to treat your lawn and garden, consider doing the following: Dethatch and aerate your lawn. Dethatching means removing the woody parts of the grass plant that build up on the surface of the lawn; do this when the thatch gets more than about half an inch thick and therefore keeps water and air from getting to the grass root. A dethatching rake works well for this task. Aerating involves removing plugs of soil from your lawn by using an aerating machine (which you can rent) to encourage air and water to reach the roots. Both practices keep your lawn healthy in a greener way than relying on broadcast chemicals that deliver fertilizer and herbicide in combination. (The herbicide ends up in areas that don’t need it and can run off into groundwater sources.) Dethatching prevents lawn problems naturally. Use natural or organic herbicide alternatives for killing weeds. Some new products available at garden centers are vinegar-based, for example. In addition, using a hoe to break up the dirt area around plants stimulates the growth of plants, reduces water loss from the soil surface, and removes weeds that take up valuable water and nutrients. Use natural fertilizers such as compost, bone meal, and blood meal, all of which are available at garden centers. Pour boiling water on ant nests, or buy sticky strips (similar to flypaper) to capture them. Get rid of ants quickly with boiling water. Attract wildlife that feasts on pesky bugs. For example, put in plants that attract birds and ladybugs. You can also use this biocontrol approach by purchasing beneficial insects such as ladybugs at garden centers or through the mail and releasing them in your garden. When the soil is damp, use a digging tool to remove the whole roots of weeds; then fill in the hole, and sprinkle corn-gluten meal (available at garden centers) around it to suppress stray seeds. Remove annual weeds with a hoe when they’re small, and spread mulch around trees and shrubs to suffocate any remaining weeds. Pick insects off plants using your finger and thumb, wash them off with a garden hose, or use organic insecticidal soaps (with care). Attract and trap slugs on the bottom of a piece of wood or in empty grapefruit shells or beer-filled plastic tubs. Shake bushes or branches vigorously to dislodge caterpillars onto a surface such as a plastic or canvas tarp; then dispose of the caterpillars in the trash. You can use the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency’s Integrated Pest Management (IPM) methods if you want an even more-involved way to control pests in your yard. IPM involves: Monitoring and identifying the pests in your yard to determine what they are and whether their numbers present a problem Preventing pests from taking hold using methods such as plant rotation and pest-resistant plant varieties Dealing with pest outbreaks using the least risky type of pest control first

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

Gardening organically means using no chemical fertilizers or pesticides; the only growing aides are sunlight, water (preferably from water-conserving sources such as rain barrels), and possibly some organic fertilizer. Fruit and vegetable gardening is great for the environment in a number of ways, but it’s even better if you employ organic gardening principles. Incorporating organic methods in your garden improves the produce you grow as well as the soil you grow it in. Organic growing is about more than what’s not in the food, however. The U.S. Department of Agriculture’s National Organic Program certifies as organic foods produced without using synthetic chemical pesticides or that come from animals that haven’t been given antibiotics or growth hormones. The program also emphasizes using renewable resources and conserving soil and water to enhance environmental quality for the future. Organic gardening isn’t just about growing healthy plants, it’s about improving the health of the soil. If your home’s previous occupants grew fruit and vegetables in the garden plot, it may contain a whole range of chemicals. It takes time to get those chemicals out of the soil so that your produce is organic — usually at least three years. To figure out where you’re starting from, it’s very important to obtain a soil test (contact your local agriculture extension office) to determine what your soil may be lacking. Vegetable Gardening Guru has all sorts of tips for reclaiming your garden and making it organic, and you can talk to your local nursery or garden center staff about the types of plants and seeds you need for organic production.

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

As someone living a green lifestyle, you want to know what you’re eating and how your food is produced. When eating green, you need to consider chemicals and additives along with factors such as how the animals were raised and what went into the field of grain aside from the grain itself. Going with organic food products is one way to maintain green eating habits. In the United States, farmers have to meet the USDA definition of organic through the National Organic Program. Basically, the program says that in growing crops and raising animals the organic way, natural substances are allowed and synthetic substances aren’t, with some exceptions. Specifically, organic means that Crops are grown without the use of most chemically based pesticides or petroleum- or sewage-based fertilizers. Animals are raised without antibiotics or growth hormones. Genetic engineering and ionizing radiation aren’t allowed at any stage of the food creation process. The USDA doesn’t make any claims that organic produce is better or safer for you than nonorganic produce, though scientists and researchers argue both sides. What isn’t disputed is that conventional — and especially intensive — farming methods can be much more damaging to the environment than organic methods. Green eating means that you may need to pay a little more to get better-quality foods and good levels of animal welfare. Organic food is generally more expensive than conventional items, but prices are coming down as more organic producers break into the marketplace. The entrance of big grocery store chains into the organic food market as a result of increasing demand for organic food is driving the demand for more organic food supplies, and the stores can keep prices down because they have huge buying power. Some organic foods aren’t grown on a large scale, but if you think about the whole cost — such as the expense of cleaning up rivers because of agricultural pesticides leaking into them — and the welfare of the animals involved, you may decide that it’s worth paying a little extra.

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

Organic fertilizers generally come from plants, animals, or minerals. Soil organisms break down the material into nutrients that plants can use. Some organic fertilizers contain significant amounts of only one of the major nutrients, such as phosphorus in bone meal, but they often have trace amounts of many other beneficial nutrients. In addition, some gardeners add organic material that improves soil structure and supports soil microorganisms, which helps make nutrients available more quickly, especially in warm weather when they are more active. As a general rule, organic fertilizers release about half their nutrients in the first season and continue to feed the soil over subsequent years. Plant-based fertilizers Fertilizers made from plants generally have low to moderate N-P-K (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium) values, but their nutrients quickly become available in the soil for your plants to use. Some of them even provide an extra dose of trace minerals and micronutrients. If you don't find all of these at the garden center, check out your local feed store. The most commonly available plant-based fertilizers include the following: Alfalfa meal: Derived from alfalfa plants and pressed into a pellet form, alfalfa meal is beneficial for adding nitrogen and potassium (about 2 percent each), as well as trace minerals and growth stimulants. Roses, in particular, seem to like this fertilizer and benefit from up to 5 cups of alfalfa meal per plant every ten weeks, worked into the soil. Add it to your compost pile to speed up the process. Compost: Compost is mostly beneficial for adding organic matter to the soil. It doesn't add much in the way of fertilizer nutrients itself, but it does enhance and help make available any nutrients in the soil. Corn gluten meal: Derived from corn, this powder contains 10 percent nitrogen fertilizer. Apply it only to actively growing plants because it inhibits the growth of seeds. The manufacturer recommends allowing 1 to 4 months after using this product before planting seeds, depending on the soil and weather conditions. Use it on lawns in early spring to green up the grass and prevent annual weed seeds from sprouting. Cottonseed meal: Derived from the seed in cotton bolls, this granular fertilizer is particularly good at supplying nitrogen (6 percent) and potassium (1.5 percent). Look for organic cottonseed meal because traditional cotton crops are heavily sprayed with pesticides, some of which can remain in the seed oils. Kelp/seaweed: Derived from sea plants, you can find this product offered in liquid, powder, or pellet form. Although containing only small amounts of N-P-K fertilizer, kelp meal adds valuable micronutrients, growth hormones, and vitamins that can help increase yields, reduce the plant stress from drought, and increase frost tolerance. Apply it to the soil or as a foliar spray. Soybean meal: Derived from soybeans and used in a pellet form, soybean meal is prized for its high nitrogen (7 percent) content and as a source of phosphorous (2 percent). Like alfalfa meal, it is particularly beneficial to nitrogen-loving plants, such as roses. Humus: When looking at organic fertilizer products, you'll invariably come across those containing humus, humic acid, or humates. Some of these products have almost magical claims as to what they can do for your plants. Humus, humates, and humic acids are organic compounds often found in compost. Humus is touted to increase soil microbial activity, improve soil structure, and enhance root development of plants. These products have no fertilizer value, but rather are used as stimulants to support soil microbial life that, in turn, support the plants. Use them as supplements, but not to replace proper soil building and nutrition. Animal-based fertilizers Whether by land, by air, or by sea, animals, fish, and birds all provide organic fertilizers that can help plants grow. Most animal-based fertilizers provide lots of nitrogen, which plants need for leafy growth. The following are some of the most commonly available ones: Manures: Animal manures provide lots of organic matter to the soil, but most have low nutrient value. A few, such as chicken manure, do have high available nitrogen content, but should only be used composted because the fresh manure can burn the roots of tender seedlings. Bat/seabird guano: Yes, this is what it sounds like — the poop from bats and seabirds. It comes in powdered or pellet form and is actually high in nitrogen (10 to 12 percent). Bat guano only provides about 2 percent phosphorous and no potassium, but seabird guano contains 10 to 12 percent P, plus 2 percent K. The concentrated nitrogen in these products can burn young plants if not used carefully. They tend to be more expensive than land-animal manures. Blood meal: This is the powdered blood from slaughtered animals. It contains about 14 percent nitrogen and many micronutrients. Leafy, nitrogen-loving plants, such as lettuce, grow well with this fertilizer. It also reportedly repels deer, but may attract dogs and cats. Bone meal: A popular source of phosphorous (11 percent) and calcium (22 percent), bone meal is derived from animal or fish bones and commonly used in a powdered form on root crops and bulbs. It also contains 2 percent nitrogen and many micronutrients. It may attract rodents. Fish products: Fish by-products make excellent fertilizers. You can buy them in several different forms. Fish emulsion is derived from fermented remains of fish. This liquid product can have a fishy smell (even the deodorized version), but it's a great complete fertilizer (5-2-2) and adds trace elements to the soil. When mixed with water, it is gentle, yet effective for stimulating the growth of young seedlings. Hydrolyzed fish powder has higher nitrogen content (12 percent) and is mixed with water and sprayed on plants. Fish meal is high in nitrogen and phosphorus and is applied to the soil. Some products blend fish with seaweed or kelp for added nutrition and growth stimulation. Mineral-based fertilizers Rocks decompose slowly into soil, releasing minerals gradually over a period of years. Organic gardeners use many different minerals to increase the fertility of their soils, but it's a long-term proposition. Some take months or years to fully break down into nutrient forms that plants can use, so one application may last a long time. Chilean nitrate of soda: Mined in the deserts of Chile, this highly soluble, fast-acting granular fertilizer contains 16 percent nitrogen. It's also high in sodium, though, so don't use it on arid soils where salt buildup is likely or on salt-sensitive plants. Epsom salt: Epsom salt not only helps tired feet; it's a fertilizer too! Containing magnesium (10 percent) and sulfur (13 percent), Epsom salt is a fast-acting fertilizer that you can apply in a granular form or dissolve in water and spray on leaves as a foliar fertilizer. Tomatoes, peppers, and roses love this stuff! Mix 1 tablespoon of Epsom salt in a gallon of water and spray it on when plants start to bloom. Greensand: Mined in New Jersey from 70 million-year-old marine deposits, greensand contains 3 percent potassium and many micronutrients. It's sold in a powdered form, but breaks down slowly so is used to build the long-term reserves of soil potassium. Gypsum: This powdered mineral contains calcium (20 percent) and sulfur (15 percent). It's used to add calcium to soils without raising the soil pH. Hard-rock phosphate: This mineral powder contains 20 percent phosphorous and 48 percent calcium, which can raise soil pH — avoid it if your soil is already alkaline. It breaks down slowly, so use it to build the long-term supply of phosphorous in your soils. Soft-rock phosphate: Often called colloidal phosphate, soft-rock phosphate contains less phosphorus (16 percent) and calcium (19 percent) than hard-rock phosphate, but the nutrients are in chemical forms that plants can use more easily. This powder breaks down slowly, so one application may last for years in the soil. It also contains many micronutrients. Limestone: This mined product has various nutrient levels, depending on its source. It's used primarily to raise pH, but dolomitic limestone, which is high in calcium (46 percent) and magnesium (38 percent), also adds magnesium to the soil. This powder also comes in an easier to spread granular form. Calcitic limestone is high in calcium carbonate (usually above 90 percent). Conduct a soil test for pH and for magnesium to find out which kind of lime and how much to add to your soil.

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

Rabbits nibble the foliage of almost any garden plant, returning day and night to finish the job. Rabbits tend to eat vegetables and flowers in spring and summer; sprouting tulips are a favorite spring treat. In fall and winter, they favor twigs and bark and can cause considerable damage to landscape trees and shrubs. Here are some techniques to foil rabbits: Fencing: The best way to keep rabbits away from your plants is to fence them out. Because they burrow, a fence must also extend underground. Choose a 4-foot-high, chicken-wire fence with 1-inch mesh. Bury the bottom foot of the fence, bending the lowest 6 inches into a right angle facing outward. Trunk protectors: Protect tree trunks with a cylinder of 1/4-inch hardware cloth or other wire mesh. (Larger mesh works for rabbits, but the 1/4-inch size protects trees from gnawing mice, too.) The material should be a few inches away from the trunk and extend high enough that rabbits standing on snow can’t reach above it. You can also get commercial tree guards. Repellents: Repel rabbits with hair gathered from hair salons and dog groomers. Sprinkle it around the boundary of a garden and replenish it every few weeks. You can also purchase commercial repellents that are made to spray on the ground or directly on plants. Because most of these sprays repel by taste, use them only on ornamental plants, and follow label directions carefully.

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

Deer are among the most troublesome of garden pests. A deer or two can ravage an entire garden overnight. Deer eat plants and trample vegetation, and bucks rub their antlers on young trees to remove the "velvet" and to mark their territory. Several types of repellents may keep deer out of your yard: Soap: Hang bars of soap from low tree branches or from stakes so that the bars are about 30 inches off the ground. Fragrant, tallow-based soaps such as Irish Spring work best. Hair: Ask your barber or hairdresser if you can have some hair trimmings. Human hair hung in mesh bags about 3 feet off the ground may deter deer. Spray: Use spray repellents on foliage. One recipe: Mix three raw eggs in a gallon of water and spray the mixture on plants. This substance apparently smells worse to the deer than it does to you. If the repellants don't work, here are some other strategies: Use row covers: In early spring, spread row-cover fabric over tender new growth, supporting the covers with wire cages or hoops if necessary. These row covers can deter the deer long enough to give your plants a head start and allow time for wild food plants to become plentiful. Motion-detector-activated sprinklers: These may deter deer for a short time. Playing a radio in the garden at night may work for a few days, but the deer will catch on quickly, and if they're hungry enough they won't care. String fishing line between posts: This sometimes confuses deer enough that they go elsewhere. Put up fencing: The only surefire way to keep deer out of your garden is to put up a tall fence. Deer have been known to jump 10-foot fences, but an 8-foot fence will deter most intruders unless they're very hungry. To ensure the success of your fence, use deer tendencies to your advantage. Apparently, deer are intimidated about jumping when they can't tell how much distance they have to clear. For that reason, they're less likely to jump a fence over a narrow, long garden than a fence that surrounds a large, wide garden. The two long sides appear to be too close together for the deer to see a place to land. You can create the same illusion by installing a fence so that it slants outward away from the garden. This technique can intimidate the deer by making the fence appear wider than it really is. You can even make a 5-foot-fence more deer proof by using taller posts and attaching strands of wire above the fence, such as at 7 feet and 10 feet. Many plants are touted as deer resistant, but if deer are hungry enough, they'll eat just about anything. Still, if you live in an area where deer pressure is high, including deer resistant plants like catmint, hellebore, and yarrow increases the likelihood that at least something in your garden will survive.