Landscaping Articles

Article / Updated 08-03-2023

Simply put, low-water landscaping is all about landscaping with less water. And no matter whether you’re trying to sustain an established yard in a desert-like climate or you’re wishing to make changes while adjusting to a limited or unpredictable water supply, the message is the same: You can do it! Having a beautiful landscape isn’t just nice, it’s also important. The plants in and around the area are more than décor, they’re alive — even in times when water is scarce. We humans are bound in a relationship with plants, not just for the pleasurable beauty or fragrance they may provide as we come and go from our home or hang out in the yard, and not just for the other creatures they help sustain (from pollinators to birds). We’re also elementally bound together by the shared, interdependent, natural cycles of air — the exchange of carbon dioxide and oxygen — and water, the stuff of life as we know it. When water is rationed or in short supply, when rain is a rare event, when we constantly hear dire stories about falling reservoirs and depleted aquifers, we worry. We should worry. Water is precious and vulnerable to human demands as well as forces that feel beyond our control, like weather patterns and macro-climate change. And yet, having an attractive yard isn’t a foolish wish, nor is it a luxury. Your yard is part of your home and part of the big picture of the larger landscape. Rather than giving up, adapt. Become a good steward. This article gives you a brief overview of what you can do. Find out how to conserve water, how to better deliver it to wisely chosen plants, and how to keep it all healthy and beautiful. Defining Low-Water Landscaping Low-water landscaping is using less water, more efficiently. Sustaining home landscaping on less water isn’t mysterious. Many excellent techniques and ideas come from farming and agriculture. And, of course, research is continuing. Certain water-conserving ideas from agriculture translate well to smaller and more intimate settings, whether you only have a courtyard or balcony, or you’re trying to maintain a half-acre or more around your home. Also other gardeners have developed clever, effective ways to successfully nurture many plants with less water. You don’t need to reinvent the wheel, so to speak. Plenty of trial and error and research, worldwide and over many centuries, has yielded innovative and practical ways to install and care for plants. Here, I begin by taking a closer look at where you can reduce water use and how. Not every suggestion will apply — but many will! Conserving is a matter of examining every opportunity. See where it makes sense to implement There are many places and times where saving water can (and should) be possible. These include the following: Where getting water to your yard and plants is difficult or complex Where the water supply is expensive/where water bills just keep going up and up Where the water source is uncertain: unreliable, depleted, or drying up Where rainfall is unpredictable, sparse, or briefly seasonal Where water rationing is mandated and enforced Where the landscaping you do have is suffering from lack of water When you don’t have time, funds, or the energy to fuss over your yard When you’re ready for a change to more responsible and creative landscaping Why being water-wise is important Global climate-change weather models suggest that severe droughts may not be occasional anomalies to endure but become the norm — sobering news. Therefore confronting the situation and being proactive about your water use is imperative. Should things improve or monsoon rains be generous, well, the good habits and practices you develop ought to stay in place anyway. Wasting water is a careless habit; conserving water shows respect for life itself, starting with the plants and creatures inhabiting your yard and also respect for your neighbors and neighborhood, your municipality, and your bioregion. Leverage your water sources Part of water-wise gardening is gathering all the water you can and sometimes storing it to use with care later — in other words, maximizing your supply. You may be surprised by some of these useful ideas: Start monitoring how much water your garden needs and uses. Install one or more rain barrels. Collect and store water in a cistern or tank. Use gray water. Gray water isn’t all of your household water, but rather the sources of relatively clean consumption, such as sinks, showers, bathtubs, and even the washing machine (not the toilet or utility sink). Some municipalities regulate the use of gray water and, of course, you don’t want to use certain soaps or cleaning agents, which would make the re-used water unsafe or unsuitable for your plants or soil. Route or reroute drainage from your roof. Study and route or reroute drainage out in your yard. Put in a rain garden, a garden area set up in a low area where rain pools or where you can divert your rain gutters. Find out whether your municipality has reclaimed water, which is water that has been treated but isn’t meant for drinking/not potable. They may be using it to irrigate city parks and other public places, but it may also be possible to access it for your personal landscape. For the details on how to implement all of the ideas in this article, check out my book Low-Water Landscaping For Dummies. Eliminate wasteful watering practices A series of seemingly minor changes in your watering habits can help. Here are a few suggestions: Prevent runoff. Don’t overwater, don’t water too long, and help water soak in so plants can use it. It begins with good soil, actually. Create watering basins around individual plants. Create water-need zones by grouping plants with similar needs together so you can water them together. Water when chance of evaporation is lowest. A full explanation and discussion — including myth-busting. Choose watering gear wisely. Replace old-model sprinklers and sprinkler systems with some amazingly efficient new technology. A wide range of items and networks deliver water directly to the roots of your plants (and not to the sidewalk and gutter!). Hold water in the ground around your plants by mulching. It’s cheap, it’s easy, and it’s tremendously effective. Just to get on the Mulch Soapbox for a moment: Anyone can mulch their plants and everyone, especially those needing to conserve water, should! Mulch has profound benefits. Mulch prevents evaporation, which is huge because most plant roots are fairly close to the soil surface. Mulched plants need water less frequently and stay fresh-looking longer after a watering. Mulch also helps keep weeds at bay, and weeds are notorious for stealing water and nutrients from your desired plants. Like to grow and display plants in containers, but you’ve definitely noticed that they’re more water-intensive than plants in the ground? Good news: You can get the needed water to potted plants without waste or worry. Among the options are clever self-watering pots and water-holding crystals added to potting soil. Replace Impractical Plants with Practical Ones If you’re honest with yourself, you already know that your yard — including but not limited to your lawn — has some plants that aren’t doing so well these days. Not enough water is obviously their problem. They’re getting to be too much trouble and expense to maintain. To be blunt, the solution is obvious. Out with the old, in with the new! I want to reassure you that not only can you make changes, but you can also embrace changes by making smart and creative choices that will look great. Keep reading for some general suggestions. Getting rid of your lawn Taking out your grass feels like the end of an era … because it’s the end of an era. Green lawns suck up a lot of resources, mainly water but also fertilizer and perhaps weedkillers (all of which can be harmful to wildlife, your environs, and groundwater) — not to mention all your own effort and sweat in mowing and clipping. And what’s the point if water is limited and no matter how hard you try, it doesn’t look as lush as you want? Completely removing your lawn isn’t as hard as you might think. Lawn grass isn’t deep-rooted, and you can dig it up and peel it away like a thick old carpet. You can also get rid of a lawn by tarping, solarizing the area, or undertaking sheet or “lasagna” mulching. After the deed is done and you’ve removed your grass, you’ll have a clean slate, an area of open space, presumably in full sun and in full view of you and your neighbors. This is a brand-new landscaping opportunity! Yes, look at this transition as pivoting to a new and better way — because it is. While you’re contemplating your next steps, don’t leave bare, exposed ground. Weeds — those hardiest and most resilient of all plants, even in dire drought conditions — will invade. The saying “nature abhors a vacuum” is never truer than when a spot is freshly cleared. Just cover over the area until you’re ready to re-landscape and replant. Consider lawn alternatives You have a lot of options for alternatives, depending on the size of the space, your budget, and your energy. I recommend you do a little (fun and inspiring) research by looking at how others in your neighborhood and region have dealt with lawn replacement. Meanwhile, the following can jump-start your thinking: Put in a native drought-tolerant grass or grass blend. True, your lawn won’t look like a golf green, but it may serve as a pretty and quite water-wise new installation. A plus: These types of grasses look more harmonious and natural, rather than out of place. Consider ornamental grasses. Unlike turf grasses, ornamental grasses are clump-formers, so they tend to be taller and need to be planted more closely if you’re still wanting broad coverage. You can clip or mow to maintain a desired height. Install a meadow. Full disclosure — installing a meadow takes soil preparation, careful selection of a balance of flowering plants and native grasses, and some regular maintenance to keep it looking nice. It’s gardening; you can’t just sprinkle a can of meadow mix and be done. However, the results can be gorgeous and gratifying, and the area definitely will consume very little water once established. Some municipalities and homeowner associations are still reluctant to allow or approve of meadow gardens, particularly in front yards or areas clearly visible from the street. Put in a groundcover. Plenty of plants certainly can fill in and cover up a broad area and look terrific. Some introduce different shades of green and other colors (and/or seasonal color changes, which can be lovely) to your home landscape. And, don’t be succulents-averse. There are more options than you may realize, and mixing and matching can also supply impressive, beautiful, and effective coverage.

Article / Updated 04-26-2023

A popular alternative to a traditional, water-sucking lawn is a meadow or, more properly, a meadow bed. These plantings use native grasses and prairie-type plants or native flowers, both annual and perennial. Certain wildflower (pre-made) mixes composed of low-growing plants can also be used for meadowlike lawns. Meadow lawns are less formal-looking than most grass lawns but can be walked on or played on and have a wild beauty all their own. Make no mistake: A meadow garden is still gardening. You can’t just sow or plant meadow flowers and grasses, and then walk away and expect the results to prosper or stay looking the same. But doing this in your yard is no more difficult than installing and caring for other planting projects. The following sections explain how to make your meadow dreams come true. A compelling reason to do this is to create habitat for and offer sanctuary to pollinators, birds, and other ecosystem inhabitants. If someone else a street over has a meadow area in their yard, stop by, ask for a tour, and learn from their experiences! But what will the neighbors think? Despite their benefits and potential beauty, meadow gardens and beds remain controversial in some communities. To the untrained eye or the eye accustomed to traditional lawn grass or even beds of gravel punctuated by succulents, these plantings aren’t welcome. This prejudice isn’t totally unfair. A meadow area that isn’t matured (maybe its second year will be a peak show) or one that isn’t well-maintained can indeed look like a jumble of weeds. Meadows may be prohibited or frowned upon in densely populated neighborhoods. In planned communities with a homeowners association (HOA), they may be outright banned or at least regulated. Find out whether your area allows meadow gardens. You’ve probably heard stories of defiant or distressed meadow gardeners being fined or forced to mow it all down. Sometimes they’re prohibited in the front yard, and you can shift your plans to another part of your property. Certainly you ought to be able to landscape however you please in the back or along the sides of your home. Assuming you get the green light and go ahead with the project, take good care of the area. Let your neighbors see you out there — that will help them understand it’s a tended garden space, not a weed patch! Getting started on your meadow area When you’re ready to begin, attend to these practical measures: Pick a spot. Full sun and out in the open tends to be ideal. Repurpose some or all of your former lawn area, dress up a curb strip, or create a border along a driveway or walkway or along the front of your house. Define the area. If your meadow garden has boundaries — edgings of stones, wood, fencing of some kind, even a buffer like a gravel moat — the whole thing looks tidier and planned, and skeptics will better receive it. Defining the area also makes the project more manageable for you. Put up an attractive and informative sign. Order a customized one on Etsy, saying something like “Teri’s Meadow, Butterflies Welcome!,” “Mi Pequeño Prado,” “Habitat Restoration Project,” “Pollinator-Friendly Garden,” or “Low-Water Wildflowers.” Do your homework. Read and ponder this section’s basic information. Visit nurseries and do some research online about meadow plants and design approaches. Figure out approximately how many plants you’ll need. The first step is measuring the site and calculating the area (length x width). Maybe make a sketch. Because you want thicker growth in a meadow scheme, plan for plants to be installed close together. Knowing their projected size will guide you. Alternatively, armed with the site dimensions, go to the nursery and enlist the help of a staffer. You can always add more plants if you didn’t buy enough on the first trip! Preparing the site and soil A meadow area or bed is a gardening project, not a toss-in-the-plants-and-go affair. Get the spot ready beforehand to boost success by doing the following: Evict weeds. Weeds are aggressors and can overwhelm and shade out little growing meadow plants. Remove them by the roots whenever possible. You might not get all of them but give this a good effort — you’ll save annoyance and work down the line. If the area is full of weeds now or in the recent past, hit the pause button and beat back the problem first. Don’t till, which brings both weed seeds and plant and root fragments to the surface where they can germinate and grow. You have options: Tarp or solarize the area. Let a crop of weeds germinate, then mow them down (many are annuals and won’t get tall enough to reseed; you’re basically outsmarting them with this method!). Consider some soil improvement. Even when you intend to install lots of native plants, the native soil in your yard may not be welcoming to seeds or seedlings. Low-water plants do need some tough love (that is, you don’t want to pamper them with rich soil that leads to lush — and thirsty — growth), but a little soil improvement won’t hurt in this case, particularly if your soil is poor or gritty. Improve it before planting anything by digging in organic matter such as compost, bagged dehydrated cow manure, and/or good topsoil. Install a watering system or have a watering plan. Among your options are in-ground irrigation, soaker hoses, and watering gadgets. Your water needs will be dictated by what sorts of plants you choose — really drought-tolerant plants won’t require much. But, as ever, seeds and baby plants always do. So have a plan. Protect the prepared spot. A cleared area, with or without some soil improvement, is an open invitation to opportunistic weeds. They can come in from seemingly nowhere, on a breeze, or from under the ground if you missed root fragments. Even if the gap between getting the spot ready and planting time is only a couple of days, cover it! Tarp it, cover it with black plastic, spread flattened cardboard or old carpets over the area, whatever it takes. Anchor the edges. Don’t remove the cover until planting day. Choosing appropriate plants Picking plants for your meadow display is fun. Your best bet is to pay a visit to a nursery that specializes in pot-grown native and meadow plants so the staff can advise you and answer your questions. Otherwise, nose around a more-general nursery and look for ideas. Local and regional plants are well-adapted and also offer food and shelter to area pollinators. Planting these boosts two goals: adding garden beauty and nurturing the environment. Here are my best shopping tips: Be selective. Choose wildflowers and native grasses. Planting a variety assures that you’ll always be something to admire. Aim for balance to get a more natural-looking meadow. Pick some grasses and some perennial and annual blooming flowers. (Time and experience will help you hone the look as you discover if your plans worked or need to be tweaked from one year to the next.) Don’t be a purist. When you go shopping, you’ll see cultivars or nativars, which are cultivated varieties of native plants. They’re variations and improvements on the original species — either spotted by a savvy horticulturist or developed at a nursery. Their growth habit may be shorter and less rangy, or their flower size may be larger and/or flower production is higher. Color variations are available. For example, purple coneflowers now come in a rainbow of bright colors, including orange, magenta, red, and yellow. Some plants aren’t native nor descended from natives (instead they’re from other low-water parts of the world), and yet they deliver the color and exuberant look you wish for, so go for it! Add some cosmos, zinnias, and different kinds of poppies to your meadow display. The goal is to have lots of pretty flowers tossing in a light breeze. Keeping your meadow looking nice Water is a need in the early days, but over time, your meadow planting will become more self-sufficient. Still, here are things you can and should do to keep it attractive: Mulch it. As with all new plantings, mulch is key. It helps hold in critical soil moisture to help sustain young plants and helps keep out encroaching weeds. Lay down an inch or more, and if possible, maintain/replenish the mulch layer, at least until the meadow plants get taller, growing thickly enough to manage these matters for themselves. Maintain it. Pass through and groom your meadow, even if doing so feels like busywork (many meadow plants are low-care, but you want to let your neighbors see you working in the meadow area). You can trim off spent flowers, remove excessive or spent growth, and cut back stems or branches that are crowding out other plants or pushing the boundaries of the area. Mowing at season’s end might be a good idea. Assess balance. The prettiest meadows in nature have both grasses and flowers. Although the look you wish is up to you, an equal amount at any given time looks nice. Grasses carry on most of the year (and may even bloom, though their flower spikes arguably aren’t as showy or colorful as their companions) but flowers come and go. The look can change dramatically from one season to the next, and definitely from one year to the next — simply because some plants are stronger growers. Intervene to edit — trim or take out plants — when you feel the balance is off or when you notice some of the plants becoming too dominant. For the first year, observe which flowers do best for you. Plan to reseed more of them in subsequent years, especially near to each other so you create little islands of each variety. This action actually mimics the way natural meadows look and will be more stable as the years go by.

Cheat Sheet / Updated 01-06-2023

This isn’t a dry topic! As long spells without rain and ongoing droughts begin to impact more areas, having practical, useful information for managing is important. Maintaining an attractive garden in climates that are arid or wherever the water supply is low or uncertain, many people believe, is difficult and challenging. Not so. You just have to adapt, to change your ways. Begin with getting to know appropriate plants and then learning how best to maintain them, particularly how to deliver (and accumulate/harvest!) the minimal water they do need in order to thrive. Along the way, gather inspiration so you can find creative ways to bring color, beauty, and interest to your yard. This Cheat Sheet can give you some bare-bone basics and strategies that will make all the difference.

Cheat Sheet / Updated 03-08-2022

Putting together your perfect landscape starts with making a wish list customized to your needs, planning out your landscaping, and purchasing plants best suited for your landscape plan and hardiness zone. This Cheat Sheet can help you keep track of these details.

Cheat Sheet / Updated 03-27-2016

If you want to create a sustainable landscape, examine your yard to determine what eco-friendly improvements can be made right away. Start conserving water and select plans that have similar temperature, sun, and water needs — and use environmentally-friendly landscaping methods — and you will be on your way to a beautiful and sustainable lawn

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

Instead of viewing a slope in your yard as a landscape liability, consider it a great opportunity — a place to display a rock garden. Rock garden plants are quite beautiful, and growing them on a slope near a walkway gives you the opportunity to view them up close. Your rock garden plan could combine plants, steps, and boulders — and can work in the backyard at the edge of a lawn or in front, right off of a sidewalk. Keep the following in mind for creating this sort of rock garden: The steps are stones. Use stones of different lengths for a more natural look. Choose stones with a smooth, flat surface, and put them in place firmly. Create planting pockets on the steps. Riprap (large chunks of rock) helps the soil. Randomly stacking rocks of varying size is an economical way to retain soil on the slope — the steeper the hillside, the closer together you want the rocks to stabilize the soil effectively. Add planting pockets between the rocks to soften harshness. Boulders add a natural touch. Keep them in scale, not too big or too small for the site. Color and texture come alive. Typical rock garden plants are small and slow growing, offering a variety of textures that are best viewed close up. For color, include blooming perennials, such as lavender, coreopsis, and salvia. Small trees and shrubs add beauty. Potential rock garden trees include dwarf arborvitae (Thuja occidentalis), dwarf hemlock (Tsuga canadensis), dwarf hinoki cypress (Chamaecyparis obtusa), Japanese maple (Acer palmatum), and Mugho pine (Pinus mugo mugo). As for shrubs, try bog rosemary (Andromeda polifolia 'Nana'), dwarf heath (Erica), dwarf Japanese holly (Ilex crenata), dwarf junipers, and dwarf Scotch heather (Calluna vulgaris). Small perennials bring bursts of color. Perennials that work well in a simple rock garden include bellflower (Campanula), Cranesbill (Geranium), Moonbeam coreopsis (Coreopsis verticillata 'Moonbeam'), primroses (Primula), thrift (Armeria), thyme (Thymus), and Yarrow (Achillea).

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

Vines are useful in the landscape as groundcovers, as a covering for a fence or blank wall, or as shading on an arbor or trellis to cool a patio or deck. Just remember that they can be very vigorous and sprawl over, twine around, climb up, or attach to whatever gets in their way. As long as you keep them within bounds and under control, they can be effective. Like other plant groups (trees, shrubs, and so on), vines offer a variety of ornamental characteristics, including seasonal flower color, bright berries, and autumn color. Because most grow vertically, you can use them in tight spots where few other plants would fit. And they are versatile — they can create privacy, provide shade, and conceal unattractive landscape features. Types of climbing vines Vines are grouped into several types, according to the way they climb, as shown in Figure 1. Vines need to grow on something, either another plant or a trellis you provide. Before deciding what kind of support to provide for your favorite climbers, you need to know exactly how the vines attach themselves. Figure 1: A look at the different ways vines attach. Clinging vines. Examples are English ivy and Boston ivy. These vines have specialized growths — like little suction cups or claws — along their stems that can hook onto any surface they touch. Sprawling vines. An example is a climbing rose. These vines are often vigorous, spreading plants. In order for them to climb, they need to be tied to a trellis or support. Twining vines. These vines come in two types. Some, like star jasmine (Trachelospermum jasminoides), wrap around anything that falls in their way. Others, like grapes, have small, twining tendrils at the bases of their leaves. The tendrils grab and wrap around anything they can reach. Should vines grow on walls or fences? Clinging vines, such as English ivy and Virginia creeper, can attach so firmly to walls and fences that getting them off without damaging the structure becomes almost impossible. And sometimes the attaching parts of the plant work their way into cracks and crevices. As they enlarge and grow, they can lift shingles and damage even the sturdiest materials, such as concrete and brick. Letting a clinging vine attach directly to the walls of your house usually isn't a good idea, unless the house is made of brick, stone, or aluminum siding. And even then you can have problems. Instead, build a trellis a few feet away from the side of the house and let it support the vine. That way, you can also paint the wall (behind the trellis) if you need to. Supporting vines in your garden As vines grow, the branches enlarge and the plant gets heavier. If the supports aren't strong enough, they can buckle under the weight. Build supports that are sturdy and long lasting. Two-inch galvanized pipe and pressure-treated 4x4 lumber are both good choices. You have many ways to support a vine, from arbors to lath trellises to wires strung between secure anchors. The important thing is to plan the supporting device in advance, make it strong, and design it to fit the growth habit of the vine. Probably the simplest way to support a vine is to let it climb up and ramble through a companion tree or shrub — the way many vines grow in nature. This display can be enchanting in a landscape if the two plants are good companions. Moderate growers, like clematis, happily associate with large shrubs. Vigorous growers, such as ivy, are best kept out of trees. Don't let any type of vine climb into the tops of trees. Vigorous vines usually compromise the health of the tree. Heavy fences or the walls of outbuildings are another place to plant climbers, and these supports require little work from you. A chain-link fence can be transformed from an eyesore to a wall of color with a handsome climbing rose or Virginia creeper. In winter, the leaves drop from deciduous plants, but the eyesore will still look better than without the vine. The classic structure for any vine is an arbor. The simplest of these may be a pair of posts with a timber or arch spanning the top. You train the vine to grow up the posts and over the arch. You can use a series of these arches to make a shady outdoor tunnel or to cover an entire patio. Attach wire to the posts to help the young vine find its way to the top. Pruning vines in your garden Pruning prevents vines from getting out of control, becoming too heavy, or growing into places that you don't want them. Prune heavily to keep the vine healthy and attractive. Winter is a traditional time for pruning, but you can prune in any season to keep a rampant vine in check. Prune flowering vines like wisteria immediately after the plants drop their blooms. The best time to do your major pruning of vigorous-growing fruiting plants, such as grapes and kiwi, is during their dormant season (winter). Choosing a vine for your garden You can choose from dozens of vines to adorn the sides of buildings or fences as well as ramble through your shrubs and trees. If your space is limited, look for kinds that offer something interesting during more than one season — for example, beautiful flowers in spring and handsome foliage in summer. Some vines provide handsome bark on artistically twisting branches in winter, and others offer superb autumn color. Plant encyclopedias are a good place to start digging deeper into the world of vines. You can also find a good selection of vines at botanical gardens and quality nurseries.

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

Make a wish list when you begin landscape planning and use your imagination to customize your landscape around your family’s needs. Consider rain barrels, a fire pit or fire bowl, an arbor, or even a small greenhouse. Keep digging until you have everything you want in your yard. Consider these for your wish list: Enough lawn to play catch A brick patio or wooden deck An outdoor barbecue A privacy hedge A fenced-in yard A swimming pool or spa A storage shed or potting shed A compost pile A fish pond or reflecting pool A place where butterflies and birds come to visit A private retreat with a hammock A flower-cutting garden A rose garden A fresh herb plot or scented garden A vegetable garden or fruit orchard A rooftop garden A bulb garden with flowers that announce the start of a new season A patio garden with different pots full of colorful plants Wildflowers A drought-tolerant garden

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

Planning your landscape helps to keep you on budget, find the right trees and plants for yous needs, and keeps you focused on your landscaping wish list. Use these steps when planning your landscape: Measure your current landscape and draw a rough plan on paper. Review your wish list. Determine your budget. Add potential structures (patio, deck, shed, bench, fence, pool, or pond) and pathways to your plan. Determine the sun, partial shade, and shade availability for each area that you plan to grow plants. Determine your hardiness zone. Add plants and trees to your plan. Check costs and availability of materials and plants. Call your local governing body and ask about permits. Enlist a landscape contractor, if necessary. Begin building and planting!

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

Landscape plants can be expensive — they're an investment for your home. So, when you buy plants for your yard, seek healthy plants that fit your landscaping needs, beautify your property, and grow well in your area’s climate. These tips will help you get the right landscaping trees, flowers, and shrubs: Plan your landscape on paper before you set out to purchase plants — you’ll know exactly how much to buy. Establish a budget before you arrive at the nursery. Choose plants suited to the amount of sun, partial shade, or shade in your garden. Avoid plants that don’t grow well in your zone. Buy plants that, when mature, are the right height, shape, and color for the scale of your landscape. Choose plants that are compact, healthy, and (if applicable) just starting to flower. Avoid weak, spindly, or insect-infested plants. Avoid buying plants that are rootbound or have outgrown their pots. Note any special conditions before purchasing plants — soil requirements, watering needs, invasiveness, smells, and messiness (especially with berries).