Doors Articles

Article / Updated 10-07-2021

The two types of doors that are easiest to open don't have hinges at all; instead, they slide on tracks. Sliding-glass doors are a popular feature in rooms with decks or patios because their full-length glass panels open the room visually to the great outdoors while providing easy access to the outside. Interior sliding doors are frequently used for closets and pantries, and sometimes to conceal water heaters and furnaces. You can remove sliding-door panels easily to gain complete access to what's behind them. Follow simple repairs and maintenance procedures to keep your sliding doors on track. Getting your patio door to slide better Patio doors slide horizontally — or at least they're supposed to. All too often, these big, pesky contraptions stubbornly resist opening, and getting outside becomes about as easy as dragging a refrigerator through a sandbox. The most common cause of a sticking patio door is debris in the lower track. This channel easily becomes clogged with dirt and leaves because people and pets walk over it whenever they go in or out. Each time you vacuum your floors, use a small brush attachment or cordless vacuum to clean the sliding-door tracks. Apply a lubricant to both upper and lower tracks to keep the door hardware clean and operating freely. In addition to cleaning and lubricating sliding-door tracks, you want to lubricate the door lock. The best way to lubricate any lock is to disassemble it and use an aerosol lubricant to flush away grime and coat the moving parts of the lock. Sometimes, patio doors become hard to open even when the track is clean. In these cases, the problem is usually that the rollers at the bottom of the door have started to rub against the track. The rollers at the top can also wear down, lowering the bottom of the door so that it rubs on the track. Most sliding doors have a mechanism called an adjusting screw located at the bottom of the door ends. Turning this screw raises or lowers the roller. Give the screw a clockwise turn and test to see whether the door slides easier. If the door becomes even harder to open, turn the screw in the opposite direction. After a bit of adjustment, the door should roll easily without rubbing on the bottom track. Maintaining sliding closet doors Sliding closet doors operate on rollers that are positioned in tracks at the top jamb and floor, allowing the doors to bypass each other in the tracks. Because sliding doors don't fold out the way bifold doors do, they allow access to only half the width of the opening at a time. To clean and lubricate the hardware of a sliding closet door, use a stiff brush, a toothbrush, or a hand vacuum to clean dust from the tracks. Use an aerosol lubricant to lubricate all the door rollers. If the rollers are damaged, install replacement rollers (available at home centers). If the door doesn't hang level, leaving an uneven gap between the door and door frame, look for an adjustable mounting screw at the inside top of each door. Use a screwdriver to adjust the mounting screw and even out the door.

Article / Updated 12-05-2016

During the winter, you want to make sure that your doors and windows are airtight even if you enjoy the occasional cooling breeze during warmer months. Otherwise, you furnace will just be blowing money out through those cracks. You have quite a few low-cost options for sealing up those leaks: Check your window panes and storm windows for cracks and replace any that are damaged. Install those storm windows (and doors) if they aren't installed year-round. Caulk around your windows (or apply rope caulk), especially anyplace you notice a breeze slipping in. Credit: ©iStockphoto.com/BanksPhotos If you're feeling a draft but can't figure out where it's coming from, light a long candle and slowly move through your home, making sure you stop in front of all windows and doors. When you see that candle's flame moving, you've found your problem. (You can also use an incense stick and follow the smoke trail.) Apply weather stripping around your doors. This is fairly cheap to purchase at most hardware or do-it-yourself stores. Replace or switch out any door or window summer screens with their glass planes. Some people swear by window insulator kits, which are plastic coverings for their windows in the winter. You actually use plastic wrap and a blow dryer to shrink the plastic over the window and seals and then tape down the edges. This isn't very attractive and can certainly block a lot of light. If you have a basement with windows, protect them with window wells. Some of these are simply hard plastic pieces that cost less than $20. Of course, if your windows are older than 10 years or are single-paned glass, you should consider replacing them for the energy-efficient ones currently on the market. Windows are not cheap, though, and you might have to replace only the most "needy" each year.

Step by Step / Updated 06-06-2016

Because of the texture of the door surface, preparing a door for painting is especially important. Understanding how to get a door for painting can help you achieve professional-looking results on your finished door. You'll need a screwdriver, latex gloves, goggles, TSP or TSP-PF, drop cloths, a bucket, clean rags, 180-grit sandpaper, liquid chemical deglosser (if you’re covering semi-gloss or glossy paint), primer, a 2-1/2 or 3-inch angled sash brush, stir sticks, and a pad painter (only if you don’t remove the door).

Step by Step / Updated 03-27-2016

Replacing a fiberglass screen is an easy task. Screening comes in metal or fiberglass. Whichever you use, replacing a fiberglass screen on a screen door is a useful skill to have and one you're likely to need several times over the years to come — particularly if you have kids or pets. Get your replacement screen at a home center or hardware store. Be sure to choose a screen that is a few inches longer and wider than your screen opening. For this project you'll also need a splining roller, a work surface, a pair of pliers (or an awl). If your replacement screen is larger than necessary, you'll need a pair of scissors strong enough to cut through the material you purchased.

Step by Step / Updated 03-27-2016

Replacing an aluminum screen is an easy task. Screening comes in metal or fiberglass. Whichever you use, replacing an aluminum screen on a screen door is a useful skill to have and one you're likely to need several times over the years to come — particularly if you have kids or pets. Get your replacement screen at a home center or hardware store. Be sure to choose a screen that is a few inches longer and wider than your screen opening. For this project you'll also need a splining roller, a work surface, a pair of pliers (or an awl). If your replacement screen is larger than necessary, you'll need a pair of scissors strong enough to cut through the material you purchased.

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

If you know how to maintain garage doors, you can ensure that they stay in good working order for years to come. Regularly maintaining your garage door can also prevent serious injuries and property damage. In fact, you should inspect and maintain garage doors at least once a year. Inspect wear and tear Proper maintenance of garage doors include inspecting all the hardware and moving parts garage-door springs, cables, rollers, and other door hardware. Look for signs of wear or broken parts. If you find any signs damage, be sure make repairs before the door is used again. A handy do-it-yourselfer can perform most minor repairs, such as roller replacement. Although do-it-yourselfers can handle many minor repairs, a qualified garage-door service technician should handle the more complicated tasks. The springs and related hardware are under high tension and can cause severe injury if handled improperly. Lubricate moving parts The moving parts of a garage door require periodic lubrication. Use an aerosol spray lubricant and wand to clean and lubricate all these moving pieces: Combination hinge and rollers: Apply lubricant to the roller and the hinge to which the roller is attached (at either side of the door, between each pair of panels). Use lubricant sparingly; too much attracts dirt that eventually will gum up the works. Hinges in the field or center of the door panels: The hinges that hold the center of the door panels together don’t have a roller. Apply lubricant to these hinges and then operate the door several times to distribute it evenly. Lock mechanism on the door: Spray lubricant into the keyhole and work the key several times to distribute it evenly. Lubricate the pair of locking latches at each side of a manual door. Always refer to the manufacturer's instructions for information about lubrication requirements and adjustment details. Try the owner’s manual first, but if you don't have one, check the Internet to see if you can get a replacement copy. All you need is the brand and model number.

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

Securing your sliding glass door (patio door) is a must: Thieves target sliding glass doors because they're easy to force open even if the conventional lock is engaged. The key to securing sliding glass doors is to install a mechanism that prevents an intruder from forcing the door to slide or to lift. First, make sure that the existing door lock works. If it doesn’t work, home centers carry replacement locks. Prevent the door from sliding open by buying a locking device that blocks the track. Or create your own device by cutting a length of wood (such as a broomstick or a 2-x-2-inch board) to fit snugly between the doorframe and the stile of the operable door. Make this feature even more secure by drilling a hole through one door and into the other. Then insert a long nail or bolt through the holes; this prevent intruders from prying the door up and swinging out its bottom to gain entry. To prevent someone from breaking the glass to get in, install a tough window film (sold at local glass installers). This film prevents the glass from shattering and resists forced entry.

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

Your automatic garage-door opener requires periodic maintenance to ensure safe and efficient operation. In fact, because a garage door is often the heaviest and largest single piece of moving equipment around a home, frequent testing and maintenance are especially important. Lubrication requirements and adjustment details are typically found in the owner's manual. If you don't have an owner's manual, you can usually order a replacement copy by contacting an installing dealer or the manufacturer. Some manufacturers even make owner's manuals available online. All you need is the brand and model number. An inspection of the garage-door springs, cables, rollers, and other door hardware is a great place to begin. Look for signs of wear and for frayed or broken parts. A handy do-it-yourselfer can perform most minor repairs, such as roller replacement, but a qualified garage-door service technician should handle the more complicated tasks. The springs and related hardware are under high tension and can cause severe injury if handled improperly. Rollers, springs, hinges, and tracks require periodic lubrication. Use spray silicone, lightweight household oil, or white lithium grease according to the instructions in your owner's manual. Periodically test the balance of the door. Start with the door closed. Disconnect the automatic opener release mechanism so that the door can be operated by hand. The door should lift smoothly and with little resistance. It should stay open around 3 to 4 feet above the floor. If it doesn't, it's out of balance and should be adjusted by a professional. Monthly inspection and testing of the automatic opener can prevent serious injuries and property damage. Careless operation and allowing children to play with or use garage-door opener controls are dangerous situations. A few simple precautions can protect your family and friends from potential harm. Never stand or walk under a moving door. Don't let children play "beat the door." Keep transmitters and remote controls out of the reach of children and teach them that they aren't toys. The push-button wall control should be out of the reach of children (at least 5 feet from the floor) and away from all moving parts. The button should always be mounted where you can clearly see the door. Test the force setting of the opener by holding up the bottom of the door as it closes. If the door doesn't reverse readily, the force is excessive and needs adjusting. The owner's manual will explain how to adjust the force sensitivity. To avoid entrapment, perform the 1-inch reversing test after any repairs or adjustments are made to the garage door or opener. Simply place a 2-x-4 flat on the floor in the door's path before activating the door. If the door fails to stop immediately and reverse when it strikes the wood, disconnect the opener and use the door manually until the system can be repaired. Here are some of the most common garage door opener problems and their solutions: If the opener raises but won't close the door, the safety beam sensor may be faulty, misaligned, or unplugged. An opener that operates by remote control but not by the wall switch is a sign of a short in the wiring or a loose connection at the switch. A remote control that doesn't work may be something as simple as a weak or dead batteries, an antenna wire on the opener that isn't properly exposed, or a dead transmitter. If the opener is operating but the door doesn't open, the problem may be due to a worn gear or chain-drive sprocket, a broken chain, or the door disengaging from the operator. A faulty transmitter, a short in the wall switch, a faulty circuit board, or a stray signal (which is very rare) can cause an opener to operate by itself. If the remote control only operates the door when it's located 25 feet or less from the opener, the battery in the remote is weak or the signal is poor. A door that reverses while closing or that doesn't completely open or close is usually obstructed or binding. This condition can also be caused when the open limit or sensitivity is set wrong. A straining opener usually occurs when safety reversing is activated or the close limit is set improperly.

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

Many people put up with the aggravation of a sticking door lock for years. Ironically, by cleaning and oiling them, you can fix most locks in a matter of minutes. Fixing a few stubborn locks might involve disassembling, cleaning, and then reassembling the lock. First, clean the keyhole with a penetrating lubricant like WD-40. (Don't apply household oil to the key or cylinder because it attracts dirt and eventually would gum up the lock.) Spray the lubricant into the keyhole itself and then spray it on the key. Slide the key in and out of the lock several times to spread the lubricant. If this superficial cleaning doesn't free the lock, eliminate the aggravation altogether: Take about ten minutes to disassemble, clean, and reassemble the entire door lock. Here's how to remove and clean the most common type of door lock: With the door open, use a Phillips screwdriver to take out the two connecting screws that are located by the doorknob on the inside of the lock. Remove the two screws that hold the lock faceplate on the edge of the door. Slide the doorknob off the spindle, pull out the lock mechanism, and remove the latchbolt from its hole in the edge of the door. Lay the disassembled lock parts on layers of newspaper or paper towels. Spray a light all-purpose household lubricant or silicone lubricant on all moving parts of the lock, flushing out the latchbolt. Use powdered graphite to lubricate the lock cylinder. Spray until all the dirt is flushed from the assembly and then let the latchbolt assembly lie on the newspaper or towels until all the excess lubricant has dripped off. To reassemble the door lock after cleaning and lubricating it, follow these steps: Insert the latchbolt assembly into its hole in the edge of the door. Insert the exterior doorknob and spindle into its hole, aligning it so that the spindles and connecting screws pass through the holes in the latchbolt assembly. Drive in the latchbolt screws, but don't tighten them until the lock is completely assembled. Slide the interior doorknob onto the shaft, aligning the screw holes, and then drive in the screws. Turn the doorknob back and forth to check that the cylinder and latchbolt are engaged and in proper alignment. Tighten the screws on the latchbolt and recheck the alignment by turning the knob. If you have any parts left over, guess what? You goofed. Disassemble the lock and replace all the pieces. Test the lock by turning the knob and locking the lock. If the lock doesn't work smoothly, loosen the screws, realign the cylinder and latchbolt, and try again. You can lubricate deadbolts the same way. Remove the connecting screws, the faceplate screws, and then the knobs. Next, pull out the latchbolt assembly and clean and lubricate the lock as just described. To reassemble the lock, reverse the procedure.

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

Loose hinges can cause a door to stick, bind, or scrape the floor. Lucky for you, it is easy to tighten loose hinges and make your doors work like new. Most hinge problems can be solved with nothing more than a screwdriver. First, check that the hinge screws are tight. Open the door, grasp it by the lock edge, and move it up and down. If you encounter movement at the hinge screws, they need to be retightened. If the hinge screws have been loose for only a short time, you may need to tighten them with a screwdriver. But when hinge screws are left loose for a long time, the constant movement of the hinge plate and screws enlarges the screw holes. Eventually, the holes become so large that the screws can't stay tight. The result: stripped screws that are completely useless! If the door still moves even a tiny bit after you tighten its hinge screws, you have to repair the enlarged screw holes. Repair one screw hole at a time so that you don't have to remove the door. Here's how: Remove the loose screw. Dip the bare end of a wooden match in some carpenter's glue and tap it with a hammer as far into the screw hole as it will go. If the screw is large, you may have to put several glue-coated matches in the hole. Break or cut off the match(es) flush with the hinge plate and discard the heads. After you've filled the void in the screw hole with the wooden match(es), drive the screw into the hole with a screwdriver. Remove the next screw and repair its hole, continuing until you have fixed all the enlarged screw holes. In place of a match, you can use wooden golf tees coated with glue to plug a stripped screw hole. Golf tees are tapered, so they fit easily into the screw hole. Let the glue dry and then cut off the protruding part of the tee.