Toilets Articles

Step by Step / Updated 10-05-2021

Fixing a leaky toilet tank is a common plumbing repair that you can do yourself. Leaking toilet tanks can be repaired by changing out the rubber gaskets around the tank bolts and the spud washer, which can deteriorate and fail due to hard water and minerals. For this project you'll need the following tools: a screwdriver, adjustable wrench, small wire brush, sponge, white vinegar, and rags. In addition, you'll want to pick up replacement tank bolt gaskets and a new spud washer.

Video / Updated 03-28-2016

Water on the floor next to the toilet bowl usually indicates a damaged gasket seal. This DIY step-by-step video shows you how to shut off the water; drain the toilet; and move the toilet in order to replace the seal and fix the leak. It's easier than you think!

Step by Step / Updated 03-27-2016

Replacing a toilet seat is quick and easy. If you know how to replace a toilet seat, you can make a cosmetic improvement to your bathroom in just a few minutes. Seats get damaged or cracked, but most often the goal is to simply freshen up the look of the toilet. Replacing a toilet seat may be the easiest bathroom repair to make because you don’t even need to turn off the water. Toilet seats come in two styles or sizes: round (16 inches from front to back) and oblong or elongated (18 inches from front to back). Measure the old seat before you go shopping to ensure that you get the correct size. To replace the toilet seat, you'll need a screwdriver, an adjustable wrench, and, of course, the new seat.

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

Take a few minutes to figure out why you have a run-on toilet, and then you can repair it. You have a run-on toilet if each flush doesn’t end with a gurgle but instead continues with a hissing sound, with water running into the toilet bowl. To find the source of the trouble, remove the toilet tank top and place it in a safe location. Then push the flush lever and watch what happens. Don’t worry about the water in the toilet tank — it’s clean. Run-on toilets are usually caused by a problem with the tankball, the ballcock or intake valve, or the floatball. Sticky flush valve. If, after you flush, the water keeps running until you wiggle the flush handle up and down, the problem is probably with the linkage between the flush handle and tankball. Sticky tankball or flapper valve. The tankball or flapper valve is sticky if isn’t falling into the drain properly. Floatball problems. A misadjusted or damaged floatball, on the other hand, is usually the cause of water dribbling into the toilet tank, running out the overflow tube into the toilet bowl, and then going down the drain. Ballcock problems. A ballcock that doesn’t close completely is another possible cause of a leaking toilet. Once you've identified the cause you can start on the repairs.

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

When it comes to choosing a toilet, begin by pinpointing who the primary users are and how often it will be used. A good choice for an infrequently used powder room is a distant cousin from one that’s used in a family’s one-and-only hall bathroom. A standard toilet has a 15-inch rim height, but many of today’s toilet manufacturers are now offering 17-inch rim heights, which are more comfortable for most adults and meet the requirements of the Americans with Disabilities Act (ADA). You can buy a toilet for under $100 or over $1,000, and both of them can get the job done. But obviously, the durability, design, quality, and style are what account for the price difference. Figure an average price of $300 for a good-quality toilet that may outlive the people who installed it. (The life expectancy of a toilet is actually over 40 years.) Set your budget first because it may limit the color selection, quality, quietness, flushing mechanism, water-conserving quality, and ease of cleaning. Most toilets are made of vitreous china, which means that they’re impervious to water. It’s a durable material that’s easy to clean, making it the obvious choice for a bathroom. Toilets come in two basic designs: One-piece: This style is seamlessly molded together, has a streamlined look, and is, consequently, easy to clean. Two-piece: Less expensive than a one-piece unit but slightly more difficult to install, the more typical two-piece toilet has a separate water tank that hangs on the wall and rests on the toilet base or bowl. When you buy a two-piece toilet, you have to buy the toilet seat separately — strange but true. The typical height of a toilet is 14 to 15 inches, a convenient and comfortable height for most people. For tall or large people, elevated toilets are available that are up to 18 inches high. These elevated toilets are also convenient for anyone who is physically challenged and has difficulty sitting down or rising. You’ll also find ADA-compliant toilets that meet the standards of the Americans with Disabilities Act for wheelchair accessibility. Here are some things to notice in your quest for the perfect toilet: Comfortable size: Is the toilet too small for a large person? Consider an elongated toilet, which is usually about 2 inches deeper than a standard toilet and has an oversized seat, making it more comfortable and convenient to use. Elevated height: For anyone who struggles while lowering and raising themselves, consider an elevated toilet, which is approximately two to four inches higher than a standard toilet. Cleanability: If you consider the ease of cleaning a toilet the most important feature, a smooth-sided bowl is the best choice. Quiet flush: Consider a gravity-fed toilet that offers a quiet flushing system. Power flushing: Many toilet manufacturers have their own patented flushing systems designed to exceed performance standards. Most of these designs use water pressure to compress air in a chamber. When the toilet is flushed, the air pushes the water out of the chamber at high velocity, flushing the toilet with less water. Automatic seat closing: Some toilets are designed with a slow-moving hinge that gradually lowers both the seat and lid. Doesn’t this sound like the perfect solution for the lone woman in an all-male household? Insulated water tank: To prevent a build-up of moisture on the outside of the tank (a breeding ground for mold and mildew), many toilets have an insulated water tank. The insulation prevents condensation by keeping the cold water inside. This feature is popular in humid climates. Two-lever flush: To conserve water, many toilets offer a double-action flushing lever. You push the small lever to release less water for liquids or use the large lever to flush away solid waste.

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

You install a two-piece toilet in three phases: First, you secure the toilet base to the floor, then you fasten the tank to the base, and finally, you connect the water supply to fill the toilet with water. A one-piece toilet is installed in the same way as a two-piece unit except that it’s more cumbersome to handle. Because it’s all in one piece, however, the installation goes faster, because you don’t need to install pieces separately. Carefully read the installation instructions packaged with the toilet and identify the parts and then follow these steps to install a new toilet: Remove the rag in the flange hole in the floor. Scrape up any old wax and debris from the flange and surrounding area. Locate the closet bolts and turn the T-shaped head of each bolt so that it slips into the slot in the flange. Push the bolt into the slot and slide it into position so it’s parallel to the wall behind the toilet. Turn the bolt, so the head can’t be pulled out of the flange. Slide the plastic retainer washers down the threads to hold the bolts in place. Turn the toilet upside down and rest it on a padded surface. Locate the toilet horn, the short spout in the center of the toilet’s base. Place the wax ring and its sleeve onto the toilet horn and press it down firmly. This wax ring fits around the toilet horn and compresses against the drain flange as you press it to the floor and then bolt it into place. The plastic spout must face up. You have a one-time shot with a wax ring, because after the ring is compressed, it won’t spring back. The key to a proper seal is to lower the toilet onto the flange without disturbing it. Carefully lower the toilet base onto the flange by aligning the closet bolts with the holes in the toilet base. Have another person on hand to line up the bolts with the holes in the base as you lower the toilet onto the floor. Keep the base level as you lower it to the floor. Gently but firmly press the base down on the wax ring. Put a carpenter’s level across the toilet base to assure that the bowl is level, and then place the washers and nuts on the bolts, using an adjustable wrench to tighten them. Alternate side to side as you tighten the nuts, checking that the bowl is still level side to side and front to back. Be careful not to overtighten the bolts. You don’t want to tighten them so hard that they crack the base of the toilet. Cover the bolts with the trim caps. If the bolts are too long for the trim caps to cover them, shorten them with a hacksaw. Install the flush mechanism (if necessary). Most toilets come with the mechanism installed. Turn the tank upside down and attach the rubber seal, called the spud washer, to the pipe that protrudes from the bottom of the tank. Carefully turn the tank right side up and center the spud washer over the water intake opening, which is at the back edge of the bowl in the toilet base. Lower the tank to the back of the bowl, align the tank bolts and rubber washers with the holes in the tank, and insert the tank mounting bolts through the holes in the bowl. On the toilet bowl’s underside, thread on the washers and nuts, tightening by hand at first and then with a large wrench. Don’t overtighten. Be sure to turn the nut, not the bolt. Some toilet tanks have preinstalled mounting bolts, and others require that you preinstall the bolts. Follow the directions that come with the toilet. Connect the riser (supply) tube and shut-off valve by fastening the coupling nut to the tank fitting and the compression fitting to the shut-off valve, first by hand, and then with a wrench. Reinforced flexible tubes available in various lengths in white or braided stainless steel are very reliable and easier to install than standard plastic or chromed brass tubes. Turn on the water supply at the stop valve to fill the tank and toilet with water, checking for any leaks and watching the toilet as it begins to fill with water. The water flow should begin to slow and stop at the fill line marked inside the tank. Tighten connections only as needed to stop leaks. Follow the manufacturer’s directions about adjusting the water level. Some valves have a float arm that can be adjusted, and others have a setscrew to adjust. Install the toilet seat by pushing the seat bolts through the holes in the toilet base and then holding the nuts on below while you tighten the bolts with a large screwdriver.

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

Disconnecting an old toilet to prepare for the installation of a new one is nothing regal. The steps to install a toilet are the reverse of removing one, so you get a practice run before connecting the new one. Clear the floor and lay an old blanket or newspaper nearby so that you can rest the parts of the toilet on the paper as you disassemble it. You’ll also need a bucket, a large sponge, rags, rubber gloves, a wrench, and a scraper. Don’t worry about touching the water! The water in the tank is clean, and the water in the bowl is flushed out before you begin. Follow these steps to remove an old toilet: Pour 1/4 cup of toilet bowl cleaner or household bleach into the toilet and flush it a few times. Turn off the water to the toilet and flush the toilet again, lift off the top of the tank, and set it out of the way. Mop water out of the tank with a sponge and disconnect the supply line to it at the bottom of the toilet tank. The toilet bowl will have a small amount of water at the bottom. Wearing rubber gloves to protect against bacteria, use a large sponge to soak up the water remaining in the bowl and squeeze it into a bucket. Continue until all the water is gone. You can also use a wet-dry shop vacuum to remove the water left in the bottom of a toilet. Remove the gloves and wash your hands thoroughly. Look on the underside of the toilet base where the tank rests to find the tank mounting nuts and bolts. Use a wrench to loosen and unscrew them. If the nuts and bolts are corroded and won’t budge with a wrench, give them a shot of WD-40 or Liquid Wrench, a spray lubricating oil. If that doesn’t loosen them, try a hacksaw, inserting the blade between the toilet base and the nut to cut through the bolts. Place masking tape on the surface of the toilet that’s near the bolts to protect the base. Find the nuts and bolts on either side of the base of the toilet that hold the toilet to the floor. (If they’re covered with plastic caps, remove the caps.) Use a wrench to loosen and unscrew the nuts. If the bolts are too corroded to unscrew, remove them with a hacksaw. Keep a rag handy to wipe up any water that may seep out. Standing over the toilet bowl, gently rock it from side to side to break the seal of the wax ring; then lift it straight up and keep it level. Water is likely to be left in the trap, and you’ll slosh it all over your feet and the floor if you tilt the toilet. Rest the toilet on an old blanket or newspapers. Stuff an old rag in the hole in the floor, called the closet flange. This hole is a direct path to the soil pipe that leads to the sewer or septic system. The rag prevents sewer gases from entering your home. Find the old wax ring that sticks the base of the toilet to the floor and remove it. Use a scraper or putty knife to clean the floor of all residue. Wipe down the flange and surrounding area with a mixture of household bleach and water or use a disinfectant cleaning solution.