What to Look for in a Soil Mix for Containers
Because the nature of garden soil changes when you confine it in a pot, it’s important to use a soil mix specifically formulated for containers. If you take a look at the ingredients on a bag of soil mix, you may notice that there’s very little, if any, real soil listed.
Two things are really essential to growing plants in containers:
Good water flow, optimal drainage, and moisture retention: In garden soil, water is pulled down to the roots by gravity, capillary action, and the attraction of small clay particles. The water keeps moving down through the soil in a continuous column. Because the soil in a container is so confined and the soil column (depth of soil) is relatively shallow, this flow is impeded. The soil mix needs to have a looser structure to encourage this flow of water.
Good water flow helps excess water drain from the soil. Remember, plant roots need both water and oxygen. If the soil they’re growing in is saturated, there’s no room for oxygen. If it remains too wet for too long, the roots will begin to drown and rot, and if enough roots die the entire plant will die, too. For healthy plant growth water must move through the soil, moistening it without leaving it waterlogged.
On the other hand, you don’t want all the water to run right through the soil and out the drainage hole. Plant roots need a consistent supply of both water and oxygen. They can’t go without one or the other for very long. A soil mix that dries out too quickly multiplies your watering chores. In a nutshell: The ideal soil mix drains freely but also retains some moisture.
You may have been told to put a layer of pea gravel or pot shards in the bottom of your container to improve drainage. Don’t do it! Although it may sound logical, using pea gravel in the bottom of a pot actually results in less air for the plant’s roots because it shortens the soil column. Instead, fill the entire container with the same soil mix, covering the drainage holes at the bottom with screening to hold in the soil as needed.
Plenty of pore space: One of the ways a soil mix can drain freely and retain moisture is by having both large and small pores (macropores and micropores). When the mix is watered, the water drains quickly through the macropores but is held in the micropores. The pores are in between individual soil particles, and also between the soil aggregates.
Don’t worry; you don’t need to know the specific pore spaces of different soil mixes. Just know that a mix formulated for plants that need excellent drainage and tolerate dry soil, like cactuses, will have plenty of macropores. That means this soil mix will also be a good choice for other plants that need excellent drainage — succulents like agave and sempervivum (hens and chicks), for example. If you’re growing plants like rosemary and lavender that need very good drainage but more moisture than cactuses, you may combine a cactus mix 50:50 with a regular soil mix. Now that you understand the principles you can mix and match soil mixes to suit the plants you’re growing.
Container mixes need to be free of diseases, insects, and weed seeds. Garden soil loses out on all counts for container planting. In the garden ecosystem, beneficial microbes help keep harmful ones in check. Placing garden soil in a container disrupts this balance. You can pasteurize the soil with heat to kill disease organisms, but this is not an easy task and the odor produced by the process is not pleasant.

Gardening Glossary
annuals
Plants that complete their entire life cycle within one growing season. The plant germinates from seed, grows and blooms, and then produces seed and dies.

Gardening Glossary
biennials
A plant that take two growing seasons to complete its life cycle. It germinates and grows leaves and stems in the first year; produces flowers and fruit (seed) in the second, and then dies.

Gardening Glossary
bolt
When a plant flowers or produces seed prematurely.

Gardening Glossary
cold frame
A wooden or concrete block box in which you can grow plants or hold dormant during the cold winter months.

Gardening Glossary
cole crops
A family of vegetables, including broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, kale, and Brussels sprouts. They thrive in cooler weather.

Gardening Glossary
complete fertilizer
Any fertilizer that contains all three of the primary nutrients, N-P-K (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium). Phrase is based on regulations governing the fertilizer industry. Does not mean that the fertilizer literally contains everything a plant needs to thrive.

Gardening Glossary
deadheading
The practice of pinching or cutting off spent flowers

Gardening Glossary
evaporative-pad humidifier
A humidifier in which fans blow across a moisture-laden pad that sits in a reservoir of water.

Gardening Glossary
harden off
The process of acclimating plants grown indoors gradually to the brighter light and cooler temperatures of the outside world.

Gardening Glossary
hardiness
The ability of a plant to survive is called its hardiness.

Gardening Glossary
humus
A stable end product of organic-matter decomposition that's believed to increase microbial activity in soil, improve soil structure, and enhance the root development of plants.

Gardening Glossary
Bacillus thuringiensis Bt
An effective bacteria that attacks only the larvae of caterpillar family insects. It is safe to other insects, animals, and humans.

Gardening Glossary
macronutrients
Mineral nutrients that plants need in the largest quantities: nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, and sulfur.

Gardening Glossary
mulch
Organic or inorganic material placed over the surface of soil, usually directly over the root zone of growing plants. Used to conserve moisture, kill weed seedlings, modify soil temperature, provide attractive covering to garden beds.

Gardening Glossary
organic matter
Once-living stuff like compost, sawdust, animal manure, ground bark, grass clippings, and leaf mold (composted tree leaves). Used to enrich soil and improve soil texture.

Gardening Glossary
perennials
Any plant with a life cycle of three or more years. Herbaceous (non-woody) perennials include flowering plants and herbs, mainly. Woody perennials include trees and shrubs. Longevity depends on the plant and growing conditions.

Gardening Glossary
pH
The measure of soil's acidity. Soil with low pH means it's too acidic; soil with high pH means it's alkaline. Most plants grow best in soil with a pH value between 6.5 and 7.2. Neutral soils measure 7.

Gardening Glossary
photosynthesis
The process through which plants take nutrients from the air and from the water in the soil to produce sugars that fuels the plant's growth.

Gardening Glossary
primary nutrients
Nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium are the three nutrients plants need in the largest quantities.

Gardening Glossary
root crops
Plants with edible underground roots such as onions, carrots, beets, potatoes, turnips. Most root crops are cold-weather crops.

Gardening Glossary
self-blanching
A type of cauliflower with leaves that naturally curl over the head and exclude light. Requires cool temperatures for leaves to curl effectively.

Gardening Glossary
sets
Small onion bulbs, about 1/2-inch wide, that were started from seed the previous year. Grow onion sets with the pointy end up.

Gardening Glossary
side-dressing
The act of adding a small amount of fertilizer around or "on the side" of plants after they're growing.

Gardening Glossary
succession planting
Planting small, 2-to-4-foot patches of plants every two weeks throughout the growing season so that you can harvest a crop over an extended period of time.

Gardening Glossary
thinning
The act of cutting the least robust seedlings in your garden to give the healthier plants more room to grow.

Gardening Glossary
vining crops
Crops that grow on vines, such as cucumbers, melons, pumpkins, and winter squash. They usually require support (staking, trellising, etc.) to keep them off the ground.