How to Assess Soil Composition
The health of garden plants depends on the soil's composition — the proper balance of mineral pieces, organic matter, air, and water. Knowing the type of soil you have can help you choose techniques to enhance its good qualities.

The best garden soil should have proper balance of minerals, water, organic matter, and air.
The relative amounts of clay, silt, and sand particles determine your soil texture:
Clay particles are microscopic and flat.
Silt particles are more angular and larger than clay but still microscopic.
Sand particles are the largest of the three types. They can be angular or rounded.

Determine the type of soil you have.
For most plants, the ideal mixture is approximately 40 percent sand, 40 percent silt, and 20 percent clay. Soil with this makeup is called loam, which provides a balance of water-holding capacity, drainage, and fertility. Soils composed of mostly one particle type can pose challenges for gardeners:
Clay soils are naturally fertile, but the individual particles are so small that they pack tightly, leaving little room for water and air. Clay soil drains poorly, stays wet longer than other soils, contains little oxygen, and dries as hard as concrete.
Silt soils have moderate fertility and medium-size particles and pore spaces that hold some water and air. They can pack tightly, especially when wet. They may get powdery or dusty when dry. Silt particles are easily carried away by runoff and are small enough to be blown away by wind.
Sandy soils contain few nutrients. Sand particles are large; water drains quickly from the pore spaces, and any nutrients that are present tend to leach out. Sandy soils don't pack tightly like clay and silt soils.
Unfortunately, except by trucking in huge amounts of soil, you have no way to change your soil's texture. You can take advantage of its natural assets, however, and compensate for its challenges by working on the soil structure.
Many factors affect soil structure, but the most important ones include the following:
Organic matter: Decayed plants and animals become humus, a substance that helps soil particles bind together. Adding organic matter improves the structure of sandy and clay soils.
Soil organisms: As they tunnel through the soil, earthworms, beetles, and other organisms open spaces between soil particles, allowing air, water, and roots to pass through easily. Encourage these beneficial soil organisms by providing food and habitat for them in the form of organic matter.
Rotary-tilling: Churning the soil through rotary-tiller blades breaks up compact soils. Rotary-tilling also changes the soil structure.
Overtilling pulverizes soil aggregates, damages soil life, and promotes too-rapid breakdown and loss of organic matter.
Working with wet soil: Avoid walking on, digging in, or rototilling saturated soil. Allow garden soil to drain to the dampness of a wrung-out sponge before working in it.
Adding organic matter to your soil every year is important, particularly for sandy or clay soils. Organic matter helps sandy soils stick together into aggregates that retain the proper amount of moisture and helps clay soils drain better. But even healthy, loamy soils benefit from annual additions of organic matter, which contributes to soil fertility.

Gardening Glossary
annuals
Plants that complete their entire life cycle within one growing season. The plant germinates from seed, grows and blooms, and then produces seed and dies.

Gardening Glossary
biennials
A plant that take two growing seasons to complete its life cycle. It germinates and grows leaves and stems in the first year; produces flowers and fruit (seed) in the second, and then dies.

Gardening Glossary
bolt
When a plant flowers or produces seed prematurely.

Gardening Glossary
cold frame
A wooden or concrete block box in which you can grow plants or hold dormant during the cold winter months.

Gardening Glossary
cole crops
A family of vegetables, including broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, kale, and Brussels sprouts. They thrive in cooler weather.

Gardening Glossary
complete fertilizer
Any fertilizer that contains all three of the primary nutrients, N-P-K (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium). Phrase is based on regulations governing the fertilizer industry. Does not mean that the fertilizer literally contains everything a plant needs to thrive.

Gardening Glossary
deadheading
The practice of pinching or cutting off spent flowers

Gardening Glossary
evaporative-pad humidifier
A humidifier in which fans blow across a moisture-laden pad that sits in a reservoir of water.

Gardening Glossary
harden off
The process of acclimating plants grown indoors gradually to the brighter light and cooler temperatures of the outside world.

Gardening Glossary
hardiness
The ability of a plant to survive is called its hardiness.

Gardening Glossary
humus
A stable end product of organic-matter decomposition that's believed to increase microbial activity in soil, improve soil structure, and enhance the root development of plants.

Gardening Glossary
Bacillus thuringiensis Bt
An effective bacteria that attacks only the larvae of caterpillar family insects. It is safe to other insects, animals, and humans.

Gardening Glossary
macronutrients
Mineral nutrients that plants need in the largest quantities: nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, and sulfur.

Gardening Glossary
mulch
Organic or inorganic material placed over the surface of soil, usually directly over the root zone of growing plants. Used to conserve moisture, kill weed seedlings, modify soil temperature, provide attractive covering to garden beds.

Gardening Glossary
organic matter
Once-living stuff like compost, sawdust, animal manure, ground bark, grass clippings, and leaf mold (composted tree leaves). Used to enrich soil and improve soil texture.

Gardening Glossary
perennials
Any plant with a life cycle of three or more years. Herbaceous (non-woody) perennials include flowering plants and herbs, mainly. Woody perennials include trees and shrubs. Longevity depends on the plant and growing conditions.

Gardening Glossary
pH
The measure of soil's acidity. Soil with low pH means it's too acidic; soil with high pH means it's alkaline. Most plants grow best in soil with a pH value between 6.5 and 7.2. Neutral soils measure 7.

Gardening Glossary
photosynthesis
The process through which plants take nutrients from the air and from the water in the soil to produce sugars that fuels the plant's growth.

Gardening Glossary
primary nutrients
Nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium are the three nutrients plants need in the largest quantities.

Gardening Glossary
root crops
Plants with edible underground roots such as onions, carrots, beets, potatoes, turnips. Most root crops are cold-weather crops.

Gardening Glossary
self-blanching
A type of cauliflower with leaves that naturally curl over the head and exclude light. Requires cool temperatures for leaves to curl effectively.

Gardening Glossary
sets
Small onion bulbs, about 1/2-inch wide, that were started from seed the previous year. Grow onion sets with the pointy end up.

Gardening Glossary
side-dressing
The act of adding a small amount of fertilizer around or "on the side" of plants after they're growing.

Gardening Glossary
succession planting
Planting small, 2-to-4-foot patches of plants every two weeks throughout the growing season so that you can harvest a crop over an extended period of time.

Gardening Glossary
thinning
The act of cutting the least robust seedlings in your garden to give the healthier plants more room to grow.

Gardening Glossary
vining crops
Crops that grow on vines, such as cucumbers, melons, pumpkins, and winter squash. They usually require support (staking, trellising, etc.) to keep them off the ground.