What to Consider before Adopting an Older Puppy
If you’ve decided to adopt an older puppy (approximately 8 to 12 months old), you may be hoping to skip the tasks involved with younger puppies, from curbing the nipping habit to housetraining. With the right pup, you may be able to avoid some of these situations. However, no situation is perfect, and very few puppies can glide into a new life without a few setbacks.
Considering the source of the puppy
Depending on where you look for your older puppy, following are some questions to ask and points to consider before taking your little guy or gal home.
Breeder: A breeder often keeps a puppy for showing purposes. If the puppy doesn’t grow into show dog potential, he’ll be made available for sale. Sometimes finding this puppy is like hitting the jackpot, provided the puppy has had individual attention and has been well socialized. Other times, it’s a disappointment, especially if the puppy has lived in a kennel for the last six months.
Because a breeder’s older puppy may be unfamiliar with the routines of home life, he may not know what stairs are or may not have spent time in a yard. And, no matter what they try to tell you, a puppy who has spent the majority of his time in a kennel isn’t housebroken! Find out where this puppy spent his early months before racing into this venture.
Pet store: These puppies usually sell for a discounted price after they’ve grown out of their cute phase. Though your heart goes out to each of them, consider their reality before you adopt. A virtual lifetime spent behind bars can take an emotional toll, and housebreaking will be a project because they’ve never been introduced to the concept of holding it.
Also, this puppy has likely had little, if any, exposure to home living, from everyday sounds to stairs, grass, and cars. After a puppy is beyond that peak socialization period, you risk raising a pup who won’t warm to everyday stimulations.
A puppy who was stressed during infancy chews more often than other pups. Nervous energy needs to be displaced, and because running to the refrigerator is off limits and nail biting isn’t an option, he’ll chew on whatever is available. Provide plenty of satisfying options, or you may see your sofa disappear, one cushion at a time.
Shelter: If you find an older puppy at a shelter, ask about his history and try to find out why he was left there. Was he found on the side of the street, or has he grown up in the system? Has the puppy in question been returned more than once? Ask what the reasons were — you may be adopting a dog who couldn’t be housetrained, was fearful of kids, or showed aggression when chewing a bone. Find out what the staff thinks of the puppy’s personality.
Testing older puppies
Following are some additional guidelines and tests you may want to use to see whether the older pup you’re considering is a good match for your lifestyle. Always remember to let your head lead your heart. Nothing is sadder than rescuing a dog only to have to return him because he couldn’t cope with your lifestyle.
Be strong — find out ahead of time whether you and the puppy are suited to each other by performing the following tasks:
If you have kids, introduce them to the puppy before you bring him home.
If you have an animal menagerie at home, make sure the puppy can cope with the creature chaos. Ask whether the owner has other pets at home (if the puppy has been living there) or whether anyone has conditioned this puppy to other creatures.
Ask a staff member (or the previous owner) to lift the puppy. What happens? Intense fear or frustration isn’t a good sign. The ideal puppy may squirm but is still accepting. Also ask to see how the puppy acts when approached while chewing on a bone or eating a meal.
To see how the puppy handles contact, bring a soft brush and try to groom the pup while feeding him treats.
Bear in mind that older puppies are less accepting of strangers and strange situations than infant pups, so allow some room for edginess. But if you see anything more extreme, back off, especially if what you see is aggression or excessive fearfulness. Look for a puppy who’s accepting of you and each of the exercises or conditions mentioned in the previous list.

Dogs Glossary
A-B-C assessment
Checking a dog’s airway, breathing, and circulation.

Dogs Glossary
animal shelter
1. An animal control agency run by local government to protect people from animals, take in strays, and manage animal issues and problems within the community. 2. A privately run shelter managed by individuals who want to protect, advocate for, and find homes for animals.

Dogs Glossary
BARF diet
A method of feeding dogs as closely as possible what they would eat in the wild: raw flesh and bones, along with vegetable matter from the stomachs of their prey. The acronym stands for either Bones and Raw Food or Biologically Appropriate Raw Food.

Dogs Glossary
blow out
A twice-yearly shedding of a dog’s undercoat.

Dogs Glossary
blue slip
An application to register a purebred puppy.

Dogs Glossary
breeder
A person who raises, sells, and often shows dogs of a specific breed. Reputable breeders screen parent dogs in an effort to produce healthy dogs that conform to breed standards.

Dogs Glossary
castrate
The removal of a male dog’s testicles to render him infertile.

Dogs Glossary
clicker
A small hand-held device that makes a sharp cracking sound when pressed. Paired with a food reward, an effective dog-training tool.

Dogs Glossary
cohesive bandage
A stretchy wrap that clings to itself used to cover and secure gauze bandages without tape.

Dogs Glossary
come into season
The advent of a female dog’s term of fertility.

Dogs Glossary
dead ring
The stationary ring on a training collar that pulls on the collar, not the dog’s neck.

Dogs Glossary
double coat
Two layers of fur — a top coat of stiff guard hairs and an undercoat that serves as insulation.

Dogs Glossary
dropped ears
The term for hanging or drooping dog ears.

Dogs Glossary
Elizabethan collar
A wide, cone-shaped plastic or cardboard collar that prevents a dog from being able to scratch her head. Used to prevent further injury or hasten healing.

Dogs Glossary
euthanize; put to sleep
To kill an animal to relieve suffering.

Dogs Glossary
fall
Hair that extends over a dog’s eyes.

Dogs Glossary
feathering
Long hair that runs from armpit to paw on the backs of a dog’s legs.

Dogs Glossary
free-feeding
Keeping a constant supply of dog food available so that the dog can decide when and how much to eat. It works best in single-dog households where there’s no competition for food.

Dogs Glossary
heartworms
Parasites that live in dogs’ hearts and cause heart failure. They’re transferred through mosquito bites.

Dogs Glossary
heat
The period when a female dog is fertile.

Dogs Glossary
heel
A command and position in which a dog walks at your left side staying with you as you change direction or pace.

Dogs Glossary
hip dysplasia
A painful malformation of a dog’s hip socket. Some breeds are genetically predisposed to the condition.

Dogs Glossary
hot spot
A localized area of skin infection. It’s usually round, red, and warm to the touch.

Dogs Glossary
live ring
The floating ring of a training collar. Attach a leash to this ring for training purposes.

Dogs Glossary
neuter
A general term to describe either spaying or castrating a dog to render it infertile. Neutering and castrating are often used interchangeably.

Dogs Glossary
pantaloons
The tufts of hair on the backs of a long-haired dogs legs that make him look like he’s wearing bloomers.

Dogs Glossary
pedigree
A diagram of a dog’s ancestors for three or more generations that lists the registered names of the dogs and the titles they earned.

Dogs Glossary
pinch collar
A training collar with interlocking prongs that pinch a dog’s neck when tugged on. Some veterinarians recommend them above all other collars for training purposes.

Dogs Glossary
praise
A verbal reward for a dog , such as an enthusiastic good dog!

Dogs Glossary
prong collar
A training collar with interlocking prongs that pinch a dog’s neck when tugged on. Some veterinarians recommend them above all other collars for training purposes.

Dogs Glossary
pulse
Normal dog pulse is between 70 and 120 beats per minute. The pulse of a puppy ranges from 120 to 160 beats per minute.

Dogs Glossary
puppy mill
A place that supplies puppies to pet stores, usually without screening for possible genetic defects or properly socializing the puppies.

Dogs Glossary
registration certificate
The paper certifying a dog’s registration with an accredited organization.

Dogs Glossary
registration slip
An application to register a purebred puppy.

Dogs Glossary
release word
A word that lets a dog know that she is free to move.

Dogs Glossary
rescue group
A network of animal lovers who rescue and find new homes for their favorite breeds or animals.

Dogs Glossary
reward
To give a dog a treat for a correct response while he’s still in the desired position.

Dogs Glossary
ruff
The long, thick fur around a dog’s chest, shoulders, and neck.

Dogs Glossary
separation anxiety
A condition in which your dog becomes anxious and stressed when you leave him.

Dogs Glossary
shed
A twice-yearly process of casting off the undercoat in a double-coated dog.

Dogs Glossary
single coat
A single layer of hairs that comprises a dog’s fur.

Dogs Glossary
spay
To remove of both the uterus and the ovaries of a dog to render her infertile.

Dogs Glossary
stripping
Plucking the dead hairs from a dog’s coat.

Dogs Glossary
titer tests
Tests that check a dog’s immunity levels to determine exactly which vaccinations are needed.

Dogs Glossary
top coat
The top layer of a double-coated dog composed of stiff guard hairs that tend to be naturally water-repellant. The top coat protects the dog’s skin and undercoat.

Dogs Glossary
training collar
A collar that enables you to guide your dog and to check her as necessary — a brief, sharp tug tightens the collar around the dog’s neck.

Dogs Glossary
treat cup
A plastic container filled with small treats or dog food. Shake it and give treats from it as a reward as you train a dog.

Dogs Glossary
undercoat
Fleecy or downy fur shorter than the top layer of a double-coated dog. The undercoat serves as insulation.