Use the Histogram as a Guide during Postprocessing
A photo’s histogram is a graphical representation of the tones in the image. The left side of the graph represents the darkest blacks in your image, and the right side represents the brightest whites.
There’s no “right” way to postprocess an image. In fact, your individual workflow for adjusting your image’s tone may be a very different process, but if you need some guidance to get going, these are the steps you can take when adjusting the tone of your images.
1
Before you start adjusting your image’s tone, make sure you’ve finished adjusting your white balance. Under the Develop Module in Lightroom, click the Basic panel to reveal your tonal controls.
Here is a well-balanced histogram that spans the entire range of the graph and falls off on either end, like a gradually sloped mountain. The histogram of an underexposed photo is bunched up near the left end of the graph, and the histogram of an overexposed photo is bunched up near the right end of the graph.
Whenever you adjust your tonal controls, keep in mind that you should strive for a well-balanced, properly exposed histogram and use its appearance as a guide.
2
Look at your image and its histogram to determine whether it’s underexposed or overexposed.
If it’s underexposed, move the Exposure slider to the right while keeping an eye on your histogram. If it’s overexposed, move the Exposure slider to the left while keeping an eye on your histogram. In either case, continue moving the slider until your histogram stretches out and spans most of the graph.
3
If you have to brighten up your image, you may need to recover some of your highlights (the lightest areas of your photo) if they’ve been blown out.
Look at your image to determine whether your highlights have lost a lot of detail. Also look at your histogram as a guide; if your graph has a tall spike at the right-hand end, you need to use the Recovery control. Just slowly move the Recovery slider to the right until the spike on your histogram comes down. If your highlights aren’t blown, skip this step.
4
Look at your image again and determine whether you need to use the Fill Light control.
If your shadowed areas seem too dark and you want to regain some detail in them, slowly move the Fill Light slider to the right. You can also assess this need by looking at the histogram. If the middle peak of your histogram mountain is still hanging out on the left-hand side of your graph, try adding some fill light.
The histogram’s peak should slowly shift more toward the graph’s middle. Don’t go overboard with this tool — a little goes a long way!
5
Again, look back to your image; if you don’t see a nice, rich, deep black anywhere in your image, it’s time to increase your blacks.
Your histogram can also clue you in here. If the histogram doesn’t reach all the way to the left-hand side of your graph, your photo likely lacks those deep blacks. Move the Blacks slider to the right while keeping an eye on your image and your histogram.
Watch as your histogram shifts to the left-hand side of your graph. Keep going until the histogram hits, or even slightly spikes up, the left-hand side of the graph.
6
Next, assess your brightness and contrast.
You really only need to adjust the brightness if, overall, your image still seems too light or dark and your histogram still appears slightly bunched on the left- or right-hand side of your graph.
Move the Brightness slider to the right to make your image lighter; your histogram also shifts to the right. Move the Brightness slider to the left to make your image darker; your histogram also shifts to the left.
7
If your image can still use some more “pop,” try adding some contrast to it.
Move the Contrast slider to the right to add contrast and to the left to decrease contrast. Notice that when you add contrast, your histogram spreads out to either end of the graph, making it look more like a plateau than a mountain (oh, the highs and lows of photography . . . ). Shown here is a before-and-after comparison of adjusting tone.
Dogs Glossary
A-B-C assessment
Checking a dog’s airway, breathing, and circulation.
Dogs Glossary
animal shelter
1. An animal control agency run by local government to protect people from animals, take in strays, and manage animal issues and problems within the community. 2. A privately run shelter managed by individuals who want to protect, advocate for, and find homes for animals.
Dogs Glossary
BARF diet
A method of feeding dogs as closely as possible what they would eat in the wild: raw flesh and bones, along with vegetable matter from the stomachs of their prey. The acronym stands for either Bones and Raw Food or Biologically Appropriate Raw Food.
Dogs Glossary
blow out
A twice-yearly shedding of a dog’s undercoat.
Dogs Glossary
blue slip
An application to register a purebred puppy.
Dogs Glossary
breeder
A person who raises, sells, and often shows dogs of a specific breed. Reputable breeders screen parent dogs in an effort to produce healthy dogs that conform to breed standards.
Dogs Glossary
castrate
The removal of a male dog’s testicles to render him infertile.
Dogs Glossary
check
A crisp, brief snap on a dog’s leash to discourage his current behavior.
Dogs Glossary
clicker
A small hand-held device that makes a sharp cracking sound when pressed. Paired with a food reward, an effective dog-training tool.
Dogs Glossary
cohesive bandage
A stretchy wrap that clings to itself used to cover and secure gauze bandages without tape.
Dogs Glossary
come into season
The advent of a female dog’s term of fertility.
Dogs Glossary
dead ring
The stationary ring on a training collar that pulls on the collar, not the dog’s neck.
Dogs Glossary
double coat
Two layers of fur — a top coat of stiff guard hairs and an undercoat that serves as insulation.
Dogs Glossary
dropped ears
The term for hanging or drooping dog ears.
Dogs Glossary
Elizabethan collar
A wide, cone-shaped plastic or cardboard collar that prevents a dog from being able to scratch her head. Used to prevent further injury or hasten healing.
Dogs Glossary
euthanize; put to sleep
To kill an animal to relieve suffering.
Dogs Glossary
fall
Hair that extends over a dog’s eyes.
Dogs Glossary
feathering
Long hair that runs from armpit to paw on the backs of a dog’s legs.
Dogs Glossary
free-feeding
Keeping a constant supply of dog food available so that the dog can decide when and how much to eat. It works best in single-dog households where there’s no competition for food.
Dogs Glossary
heartworms
Parasites that live in dogs’ hearts and cause heart failure. They’re transferred through mosquito bites.
Dogs Glossary
heat
The period when a female dog is fertile.
Dogs Glossary
heel
A command and position in which a dog walks at your left side staying with you as you change direction or pace.
Dogs Glossary
hip dysplasia
A painful malformation of a dog’s hip socket. Some breeds are genetically predisposed to the condition.
Dogs Glossary
hot spot
A localized area of skin infection. It’s usually round, red, and warm to the touch.
Dogs Glossary
live ring
The floating ring of a training collar. Attach a leash to this ring for training purposes.
Dogs Glossary
neuter
A general term to describe either spaying or castrating a dog to render it infertile. Neutering and castrating are often used interchangeably.
Dogs Glossary
pantaloons
The tufts of hair on the backs of a long-haired dogs legs that make him look like he’s wearing bloomers.
Dogs Glossary
pedigree
A diagram of a dog’s ancestors for three or more generations that lists the registered names of the dogs and the titles they earned.
Dogs Glossary
pinch collar
A training collar with interlocking prongs that pinch a dog’s neck when tugged on. Some veterinarians recommend them above all other collars for training purposes.
Dogs Glossary
praise
A verbal reward for a dog , such as an enthusiastic “good dog!”
Dogs Glossary
prong collar
A training collar with interlocking prongs that pinch a dog’s neck when tugged on. Some veterinarians recommend them above all other collars for training purposes.
Dogs Glossary
pulse
Normal dog pulse is between 70 and 120 beats per minute. The pulse of a puppy ranges from 120 to 160 beats per minute.
Dogs Glossary
puppy mill
A place that supplies puppies to pet stores, usually without screening for possible genetic defects or properly socializing the puppies.
Dogs Glossary
quick
The pink part of a dog’s toenail. It supplies blood to the nail.
Dogs Glossary
registration certificate
The paper certifying a dog’s registration with an accredited organization.
Dogs Glossary
registration slip
An application to register a purebred puppy.
Dogs Glossary
release word
A word that lets a dog know that she is free to move.
Dogs Glossary
rescue group
A network of animal lovers who rescue and find new homes for their favorite breeds or animals.
Dogs Glossary
reward
To give a dog a treat for a correct response while he’s still in the desired position.
Dogs Glossary
ruff
The long, thick fur around a dog’s chest, shoulders, and neck.
Dogs Glossary
separation anxiety
A condition in which your dog becomes anxious and stressed when you leave him.
Dogs Glossary
shed
A twice-yearly process of casting off the undercoat in a double-coated dog.
Dogs Glossary
single coat
A single layer of hairs that comprises a dog’s fur.
Dogs Glossary
spay
To remove of both the uterus and the ovaries of a dog to render her infertile.
Dogs Glossary
stripping
Plucking the dead hairs from a dog’s coat.
Dogs Glossary
titer tests
Tests that check a dog’s immunity levels to determine exactly which vaccinations are needed.
Dogs Glossary
top coat
The top layer of a double-coated dog composed of stiff guard hairs that tend to be naturally water-repellant. The top coat protects the dog’s skin and undercoat.
Dogs Glossary
training collar
A collar that enables you to guide your dog and to check her as necessary — a brief, sharp tug tightens the collar around the dog’s neck.
Dogs Glossary
treat cup
A plastic container filled with small treats or dog food. Shake it and give treats from it as a reward as you train a dog.
Dogs Glossary
undercoat
Fleecy or downy fur shorter than the top layer of a double-coated dog. The undercoat serves as insulation.
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