Uncovering the Best of Montréal and Québec City

Montréal is fun, sexy, and sophisticated. It's a city with charisma, a place with flair. Even the people who live here think so. Is it the mix of French and North American cultures that is so appealing? Is it Montréal's tumultuous past as a battleground between English and French? Or is it just the great food and pulsing night and the generally hedonistic ways of modern Montréalers? Actually, it's the combination of these and other qualities that give the city its unique beat.

Montréal has seen some dark days. A little over a decade ago, the economy was in a slump, political tensions were at their peak, and morale hit rock bottom. But the city made an amazing about-face — which means now is a greattime to visit Montréal. The economy has seen a remarkable upturn in the last five years, so the city boasts more great restaurants, clubs, and attractions than ever. The city's festivals are getting bigger and more glamorous every year, attracting an amazing array of talent. Tensions between English and French feel like ancient history now. And, best of all, this cultural and economic germination is really putting Montréalers in a good mood.

Québec City, with its quaint cobblestone streets, top-notch restaurants, beautiful vistas, and old-world charm, never goes out of style. In 2003, Travel + Leisure magazine ranked Québec City as one of the top five destinations in North America. In 2005, it took the seventh spot. And the city is in no danger of losing the title of North America's most romantic holiday destination. Just being in this fortified, cliff-top, port city is enough — although you can find plenty more to do than just soak up the view. For a small city, it offers an impressive roster of cultural events, exhibitions, performances, festivals, and more. The booming economy through Québec province hasn't done its capital city any harm, either.

Montreal's best neighborhoods

Vieux-Montréal is a "must-see" for its yesteryear architecture and cobblestone streets. During the day, this bustling neighborhood is home to many businesses, boutiques, restaurants, and cafes. Rue St-Paul is the main shopping street. The establishments on Place Jacques Cartier have terraces that spill out onto the square where there's always a busker shilling for the large crowds. The Old-Port, a boardwalk and green space along the riverfront, has many attractions and hosts special events throughout the year. By dark, Vieux-Montréal empties out somewhat, which makes it very romantic for strolling couples, whose steps echo down the streets. Increasingly, though, bars and lounges are setting up there, and it is in the early stages of becoming an exciting nightlife destination.

The Plateau is Montréal's trendiest neighborhood and the epicenter of its pulse. Strut up boulevard St-Laurent, across avenue Mont-Royal, and down avenue St-Denis and you will have covered the Plateau's main commercial drags and seen some of what it's all about.

Little Italy is northeast of downtown, just beyond the Plateau neighborhood. It's worth getting up early to catch all the morning hubbub of merchants setting up their stalls and haggling with shoppers over fresh produce and other local ingredients.

Québec City's best neighborhoods

Québec City is much smaller than Montréal. In fact, at first glance, the whole seems happily contained in the Haute-Ville and Basse-Ville, the upper and lower parts of the Vieux-Québec.

Step beyond the fortified walls to experience a more everyday version of Québec City, the province's capital. Exit the gate on rue St-Jean. Beyond, this street becomes a long commercial strip with many independent boutiques, cafes, and bars — fewer tourists and more locals going about their daily errands. Also outside the walls, rue St-Louis becomes La Grande Allée, which is Québec City's nightlife hub.

Several blocks farther in the same direction lies a cross-street, avenue Cartier, which is another charming district and somewhat hidden from the tourists buzzing between sights. In the Basse-Ville, you'll come to a narrow sliver of land between the cliff and the river, the 3 or 4 blocks in here are fun to troll. Rue St-Paul is Québec City's "Antique Alley." Hidden away in the up-and-coming district of St. Roch, don't miss the shopping on rue St-Joseph. Once an undesirable part of town, this strip is now lined with destination boutiques, bustling bistros, and happening pubs.

The best attractions

The Musée d'Archeologie et d'Historie de Montréal and the Canadian Centre for Architecture are two of the city's best museums. By regular museum standards, both are quite unusual and reveal lots about Montréal. Of course, the Musée des Beaux-Arts de Montréal is the spot for culture vultures to get their fine-arts fix. Many visitors can't resist the temptation of winning big money at the Casino de Montréal. Winter or summer, Parc Mont-Royal attracts the fitness- or leisure-conscious. Visitors to Montréal should hike up to the lookout atop the "Mountain," just because it's there. It's not that high or that steep. The penguins at the Biodome are always a favorite with the kids.

In Québec City, locals call the Château Frontenac, atop the cliff overlooking the St. Lawrence River, "Québec's Eiffel Tower," and indeed, it is — everyone goes to see it. Behind this famous hotel is La Citadel, a fortress that defended this hotly contested port city over the course of its history. Weather permitting, you can witness the Changing of the Guard, a procession of expressionless redcoat soldiers in tall fur hats — oddly enough, just like the ones in England. Behind it lie the Parc des Champs-de-Bataille and the Plains of Abraham where the decisive battle between the French and English took place. In the Basse-Ville at the bottom of the cliff is the Musée de la Civilisation, featuring engaging exhibits on the first settlers and the Native American people who were already here. Beyond the Plains of Abraham is the Musée du Québec, which, along with its permanent collection, hosts temporary exhibits of a surprisingly high caliber.

The best nightlife

Montréal's just hitting its stride when the sun goes down. Kick off your evening at a brewpub like Le Reservoir or a martini lounge, like Jello Bar, for after-work drinks — called the cinq a sept in local lingo. Step it up another notch or two after dinner by hitting places like Mile End or Newtown. After midnight, if you're looking to dance, Club 1234 qualifies as Montréal's most crowded dance floor of the moment. The Society of Art and Technology and Casa del Popolo provide other good options for a more alternative crowd.

Nights in Québec City aren't necessarily more sedate, just smaller in scale. Pubs and other intimate settings with lots of live music are what dominate the scene. The two exceptions are the mega-clubs on the Grand Allée, Chez Dagobert and Chez Maurice. Many spend their night hopping between the two. Les Salons Edgar, Bistro Scanner Multimedia, and Bal du Lezard are three good alternatives in the St. Roch neighborhood just beyond the Basse-Ville.