The Long and the Short of Coat Styles for Your Yorkshire Terrier
Just because many standard photos of Yorkies show the long hair and top knot (tied with a bow) doesn't mean that that's the only acceptable coat style. It's not. In fact, any clean, brushed Yorkie is a cutie. But the long coat and the puppy cut are the two most popular coat styles.
The long coat
The long coat is the style you typically see in breed books and on many Yorkie Web sites. It's also the standard style at dog shows. The reason the long coat is so ubiquitous is the Yorkshire Terrier coat is one of the defining characteristics of the breed. Its color, texture, and length are outlined in the breed standard — as is the preferred coiffure (the single or double top knot). As cute as a shorter cut is, it doesn't show off the coat to best advantage.
If you want to keep your Yorkie's coat long, keep these points in mind:
- Achieving the long, silky coat takes dedication and care. Your Yorkie supplies the coat, which, like human hair, continues to grow. Everything else — the daily brushing, the weekly shampooing and conditioning, the wrapping it up to keep it off the ground, and more — is up to you. If you fail to do these tasks religiously, then that beautiful coat ends up a tangled mess.
Wrapping your Yorkie's coat (that is, winding the ends around folded papers and securing them with a band) is a task you don't really need to do unless you're aiming for a coat suitable for the show ring. If you are trying to grow a show coat, then keep your dog in wraps 24/7 and take the wraps out only for the show ring. Wrapping protects the coat, allows it to grow, and helps keep it clean — especially important for male dogs, who get urine on themselves. Start wrapping as soon as the hair is long enough, usually when the dog is 9 to 10 months old.
- The top knot and bow are musts. You can choose between a single bow right in the middle or two bows on either side of a straight part.
- If your Yorkie's coat is soft instead of silky, you may not be able to achieve the look you want. Soft hair mats more, is more difficult to keep clean, and breaks more easily. The sheer work of grooming a soft coat to the breed standard probably isn't worth the trouble. You may have to resign yourself to a shorter cut.
If you plan to show your Yorkie, keep him in the traditional long coat. It's part of the breed standard.
The short coat
The alternative to a long coat is obviously a short coat. One of the more popular short coat styles is the puppy cut. Look at a Yorkie puppy, and you get a pretty good idea what that style is. Essentially for a puppy cut, you (or a professional groomer) trim the coat into short layers all over the body and around the face, as shown in Figure 1.
©Isabelle Francais
Figure 1: The coat on a Yorkie pup is short and layered all over the body and face.
Other short-style options include the modified Schnauzer cut, where the coat is trimmed short on the torso and left longer on the legs, and the face is trimmed in the traditional Schnauzer mustache, or the modified Westie cut, which is similar to the modified Schnauzer cut except that the hair on the head and face is trimmed to frame the face.
If you opt for a shorter style, keep these points in mind:
- Shorter cuts mean less time grooming. If you love everything about Yorkies except for the grooming chores, go with a shorter cut.
- You'll probably need a professional groomer to achieve the look you want. Although you can certainly do the work yourself, trimming a dog takes quite a bit of skill, the right equipment (clippers with blades of various sizes), and a practiced technique. Unless you want to learn how to do it yourself and can stand your Yorkie looking a little (or a lot) rough around the edges until your skill improves, hire a professional.
- A short cut doesn't get you entirely off the grooming hook. You still need to groom your Yorkie regularly. Of course, everything's relative: Regularly with a short cut is a lot less frequent and time intensive than regularly with a long cut. Giving her a quick brush every day or every other day, a bath about every week, and a trip to the groomer once every month or two is fine.
- What you gain in ease of care, you lose in the traditional Yorkie appearance. These short cuts cut the blue part of the coat right off. If you plan to show your Yorkie, go with the long coat; see the preceding section. Save the short cut for when her showing days are over.

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A-B-C assessment
Checking a dog’s airway, breathing, and circulation.

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animal shelter
1. An animal control agency run by local government to protect people from animals, take in strays, and manage animal issues and problems within the community. 2. A privately run shelter managed by individuals who want to protect, advocate for, and find homes for animals.

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BARF diet
A method of feeding dogs as closely as possible what they would eat in the wild: raw flesh and bones, along with vegetable matter from the stomachs of their prey. The acronym stands for either Bones and Raw Food or Biologically Appropriate Raw Food.

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blow out
A twice-yearly shedding of a dog’s undercoat.

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blue slip
An application to register a purebred puppy.

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breeder
A person who raises, sells, and often shows dogs of a specific breed. Reputable breeders screen parent dogs in an effort to produce healthy dogs that conform to breed standards.

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castrate
The removal of a male dog’s testicles to render him infertile.

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check
A crisp, brief snap on a dog’s leash to discourage his current behavior.

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clicker
A small hand-held device that makes a sharp cracking sound when pressed. Paired with a food reward, an effective dog-training tool.

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cohesive bandage
A stretchy wrap that clings to itself used to cover and secure gauze bandages without tape.

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come into season
The advent of a female dog’s term of fertility.

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dead ring
The stationary ring on a training collar that pulls on the collar, not the dog’s neck.

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double coat
Two layers of fur — a top coat of stiff guard hairs and an undercoat that serves as insulation.

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dropped ears
The term for hanging or drooping dog ears.

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Elizabethan collar
A wide, cone-shaped plastic or cardboard collar that prevents a dog from being able to scratch her head. Used to prevent further injury or hasten healing.

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euthanize; put to sleep
To kill an animal to relieve suffering.

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fall
Hair that extends over a dog’s eyes.

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feathering
Long hair that runs from armpit to paw on the backs of a dog’s legs.

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free-feeding
Keeping a constant supply of dog food available so that the dog can decide when and how much to eat. It works best in single-dog households where there’s no competition for food.

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heartworms
Parasites that live in dogs’ hearts and cause heart failure. They’re transferred through mosquito bites.

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heat
The period when a female dog is fertile.

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heel
A command and position in which a dog walks at your left side staying with you as you change direction or pace.

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hip dysplasia
A painful malformation of a dog’s hip socket. Some breeds are genetically predisposed to the condition.

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hot spot
A localized area of skin infection. It’s usually round, red, and warm to the touch.

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live ring
The floating ring of a training collar. Attach a leash to this ring for training purposes.

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neuter
A general term to describe either spaying or castrating a dog to render it infertile. Neutering and castrating are often used interchangeably.

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pantaloons
The tufts of hair on the backs of a long-haired dogs legs that make him look like he’s wearing bloomers.

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pedigree
A diagram of a dog’s ancestors for three or more generations that lists the registered names of the dogs and the titles they earned.

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pinch collar
A training collar with interlocking prongs that pinch a dog’s neck when tugged on. Some veterinarians recommend them above all other collars for training purposes.

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praise
A verbal reward for a dog , such as an enthusiastic good dog!

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prong collar
A training collar with interlocking prongs that pinch a dog’s neck when tugged on. Some veterinarians recommend them above all other collars for training purposes.

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pulse
Normal dog pulse is between 70 and 120 beats per minute. The pulse of a puppy ranges from 120 to 160 beats per minute.

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puppy mill
A place that supplies puppies to pet stores, usually without screening for possible genetic defects or properly socializing the puppies.

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quick
The pink part of a dog’s toenail. It supplies blood to the nail.

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registration certificate
The paper certifying a dog’s registration with an accredited organization.

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registration slip
An application to register a purebred puppy.

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release word
A word that lets a dog know that she is free to move.

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rescue group
A network of animal lovers who rescue and find new homes for their favorite breeds or animals.

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reward
To give a dog a treat for a correct response while he’s still in the desired position.

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ruff
The long, thick fur around a dog’s chest, shoulders, and neck.

Dogs Glossary
separation anxiety
A condition in which your dog becomes anxious and stressed when you leave him.

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shed
A twice-yearly process of casting off the undercoat in a double-coated dog.

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single coat
A single layer of hairs that comprises a dog’s fur.

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spay
To remove of both the uterus and the ovaries of a dog to render her infertile.

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stripping
Plucking the dead hairs from a dog’s coat.

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titer tests
Tests that check a dog’s immunity levels to determine exactly which vaccinations are needed.

Dogs Glossary
top coat
The top layer of a double-coated dog composed of stiff guard hairs that tend to be naturally water-repellant. The top coat protects the dog’s skin and undercoat.

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training collar
A collar that enables you to guide your dog and to check her as necessary — a brief, sharp tug tightens the collar around the dog’s neck.

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treat cup
A plastic container filled with small treats or dog food. Shake it and give treats from it as a reward as you train a dog.

Dogs Glossary
undercoat
Fleecy or downy fur shorter than the top layer of a double-coated dog. The undercoat serves as insulation.