Providing Shelter for Your Goats
To keep your goats safe, you need to provide them shelter. How elaborate your goat shelter is depends on where you live, what structures are available, how much you can afford, and how many goats you plan to have in the shelter. Some of the things to consider when deciding where your goats will live include:
Flooring: Dirt or gravel floors are best, although some people prefer wood. Dirt absorbs urine, and both gravel and dirt, when covered with straw, are warm. Avoid concrete because it's cold and hard on the goats' bodies, although it's easier to clean.
Bedding: Regardless of type of flooring, you need to use some sort of bedding for warmth and comfort. If you do have to use a concrete floor, make sure to put down 3 to 4 inches of wood shavings or straw to insulate the goats.
Dimensions: Consider the height and width of the shelter. Goats need to have 10 to 15 square feet of housing if they also have an outdoor area. When building, think about how easy it will be to muck out old bedding. Having to bend over or stretch a long way while mucking is uncomfortable and hard on your back, so if the goat shelter you build won't be taller than you are, don't make it too deep.
Climate: An open shelter may be fine in a mild, dry climate with good fencing from predators, but it won't work in an area of heavy snow and wind or the open range. Make sure that your building is in an area with good drainage and, if it is open, that it faces away from the prevailing wind.
Herd composition: If you have or plan to have a lot of goats, you need to make sure you have a large enough structure or plan to build more shelters over time. Groups such as bucks, does, and kids to be weaned need separate housing areas.
Storage: Remember that you need to have an accessible (to you, not the goats) place to store feed and goat-care tools.
Access to water: Having easy access to water, but it isn't critical in most cases. Just remember that if you don't have a water source close to your goats' area, you'll be hauling water every day for a long time.
Other considerations: Regardless of the breed, you need an area for doing routine care, such as hoof trimming or clipping. If you're raising dairy goats, you can use the same space for milking. In addition, if you're planning to breed your goats, you need kidding pens, which can be 4 feet by 5 feet; the number that you need depends on how many goats are kidding at one time. Plan on leaving your goats with their babies in kidding pens for two to three days, and make sure that you stagger their breeding so they have a place to go.

Goat Glossary
abscess
An inflamed collection of pus caused by bacteria.

Goat Glossary
brood doe
A female goat that is kept for breeding purposes.

Goat Glossary

Goat Glossary
buckling
A young male goat.

Goat Glossary
cannon bone
The shin bone.

Goat Glossary
Caseous lymphadenitis CLA
A highly contagious disease caused by a bacterium, Cornybacterium pseudotuberculosis.

Goat Glossary
chaffhaye
Roughage that has the added benefit of containing good bacteria that aid in digestion.

Goat Glossary
chine
The are of a goat's spine directly behind the withers.

Goat Glossary
colostrum
A rich, immune-system-boosting fluid that kids need during their first days after birth.

Goat Glossary

Goat Glossary

Goat Glossary
doeling
A young female goat.

Goat Glossary
enterotoxemia
A disease also called overeating disease because it comes about when a goat eats too much grain, lush grasses, or milk.

Goat Glossary
escutcheon
The area between the back legs, where the udder lies in a doe.

Goat Glossary
foreudder attachment
Attachment of the front of the udder by the belly.

Goat Glossary
foundation stock
The stock you start your breeding program with.

Goat Glossary

Goat Glossary
fuzzy goat show
A goat show held in the early spring in a part of the country where the weather is still cold; you only need to do minimal clipping.

Goat Glossary
hypocalcemia
Often called milk fever, this is a deficiency of calcium in the blood that arises when a doe doesn’t get enough calcium in her diet to support her needs and the needs of her unborn kids.

Goat Glossary
ketosis
A metabolic imbalance that usually goes hand-in-hand with hypocalcemia. It is caused when a goat doesn’t get enough energy because she has stopped eating.

Goat Glossary
kid
A goat less than a year old.

Goat Glossary
mastitis
An inflammation of the udder, often caused by bacteria.

Goat Glossary
milk stand
A piece of equipment that a goat stands on with her head secured.

Goat Glossary
pannier
A pair of baskets or bags designed to carry loads on the backs of pack animals.

Goat Glossary
pasteurization
The heating of milk to destroy bacteria and other harmful organisms.

Goat Glossary
polled
Naturally hornless.

Goat Glossary
precocious milker
A doe that has udder development and milk production without kidding.

Goat Glossary
registered goat
A goat that meets the standards of appearance for its breed and is recorded in the herdbook of the goat association for that particular breed. A registered goat usually is a purebred but may be a crossbreed (called an American or an Experimental).

Goat Glossary
rolag
A cylindrical roll of wool or fleece that is used to spin yarn.

Goat Glossary
roving
A long strand of ready-to-spin carded fiber.

Goat Glossary
ruminant
An animal that has a stomach with four compartments and chews cud as part of the digestive process.

Goat Glossary
scours
The term that livestock owners use to talk about diarrhea in their animals.

Goat Glossary
sire
A goat's father; the act of fathering a goat.

Goat Glossary
stifle joint
The equivalent of a knee in a goat.

Goat Glossary
thurl
The hip joint, usually referred to in relation to the levelness between the thurls.

Goat Glossary
wether
A castrated male goat.

Goat Glossary
withers
The area of a goat's spine where the shoulder blades meet at the base of the neck.

Goat Glossary
yearling
A goat that is between one and two years old.