How to Repot an Orchid
Don't be afraid to repot your orchids. Despite their reputation, orchids are tough, and repotting helps them thrive. You'll know it time to repot orchids when
Orchid roots are overflowing the pot
The plant itself is going over the edge of the pot
Potting material is getting soggy and drains poorly
The ideal time to repot most orchids is when the plant starts new growth — usually right after it finishes flowering.
Prepare the potting mix
Choose a potting mix that suits your particular type of orchid. Whether you mix it yourself or buy it ready-made — it must be wetted before you use it. Otherwise, it'll never hold moisture properly and will always dry out.
Here's how you prepare the orchid mix for potting:
Pour the amount of potting material you intend to use into a bucket that has about twice the volume of the mix.
Fill the bucket with hot water.
Hot water penetrates the material better than cold water.
Let the mixture soak overnight.
The next day, pour out the mix into a colander or strainer.
Rinse the mix thoroughly to wash out the dust that was in the mix.
Now the mix is ready to use.
Time to repot
When you're ready to repot the orchid, spread out some newspaper over a work surface. Gather up a knife, scissors, new orchid pots (or old ones that are thoroughly cleaned), wooden stakes, and soft ties.
Now, follow these steps:
Remove the orchid from the pot.
You may need to use a knife to circle the inside of the pot and loosen the roots.
Remove the old, loose, rotted potting material and any soft, damaged, or dead roots.
If the roots are healthy, firm, and filling the pot, put the orchid in a pot just one size larger than the one you removed it from, placing the older growth toward the back so the new lead or growth has plenty of room.
If the roots are rotted and in poor condition, repot the plant in a container of the same or one size smaller than it was removed from.
If you place a poorly rooted plant in a container that's too large, the growing material will stay too damp, which will result in root rot.
Some orchid growers like to add a coarse material like broken clay pots or Styrofoam in the bottom of the pots to improve drainage. You don't have to do this if you're using shallow, azalea-type pots.
Place the plant in the pot so it's at the same depth as it was originally.
The new shoot should be level with the pot rim.
Press the fresh potting material into the pot and around the orchid roots with your thumbs and forefingers.
The orchid should be secure in the pot so it doesn't wiggle — otherwise, the new roots won't form properly.
Place a wooden or bamboo stake in the center of the pot, and tie up the new and old leads with soft string or twist ties.
When orchids are in bloom, the staking techniques will vary, depending on the type of orchid.

Repot your orchid for improved growing space and drainage.
Monopodial orchids are those with one growing point that always grows vertically, not sideways (such as phalaenopsis, angraecums, and vandas). The potting process for these orchids is similar to the process just outlined, except that the orchid should be placed in the center of the container, rather than toward the back.

When repotting monopodial orchids, place them in the center of the pot, not at the back.

Gardening Glossary
annuals
Plants that complete their entire life cycle within one growing season. The plant germinates from seed, grows and blooms, and then produces seed and dies.

Gardening Glossary
biennials
A plant that take two growing seasons to complete its life cycle. It germinates and grows leaves and stems in the first year; produces flowers and fruit (seed) in the second, and then dies.

Gardening Glossary
bolt
When a plant flowers or produces seed prematurely.

Gardening Glossary
cold frame
A wooden or concrete block box in which you can grow plants or hold dormant during the cold winter months.

Gardening Glossary
cole crops
A family of vegetables, including broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, kale, and Brussels sprouts. They thrive in cooler weather.

Gardening Glossary
complete fertilizer
Any fertilizer that contains all three of the primary nutrients, N-P-K (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium). Phrase is based on regulations governing the fertilizer industry. Does not mean that the fertilizer literally contains everything a plant needs to thrive.

Gardening Glossary
deadheading
The practice of pinching or cutting off spent flowers

Gardening Glossary
evaporative-pad humidifier
A humidifier in which fans blow across a moisture-laden pad that sits in a reservoir of water.

Gardening Glossary
harden off
The process of acclimating plants grown indoors gradually to the brighter light and cooler temperatures of the outside world.

Gardening Glossary
hardiness
The ability of a plant to survive is called its hardiness.

Gardening Glossary
humus
A stable end product of organic-matter decomposition that's believed to increase microbial activity in soil, improve soil structure, and enhance the root development of plants.

Gardening Glossary
Bacillus thuringiensis Bt
An effective bacteria that attacks only the larvae of caterpillar family insects. It is safe to other insects, animals, and humans.

Gardening Glossary
macronutrients
Mineral nutrients that plants need in the largest quantities: nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, and sulfur.

Gardening Glossary
mulch
Organic or inorganic material placed over the surface of soil, usually directly over the root zone of growing plants. Used to conserve moisture, kill weed seedlings, modify soil temperature, provide attractive covering to garden beds.

Gardening Glossary
organic matter
Once-living stuff like compost, sawdust, animal manure, ground bark, grass clippings, and leaf mold (composted tree leaves). Used to enrich soil and improve soil texture.

Gardening Glossary
perennials
Any plant with a life cycle of three or more years. Herbaceous (non-woody) perennials include flowering plants and herbs, mainly. Woody perennials include trees and shrubs. Longevity depends on the plant and growing conditions.

Gardening Glossary
pH
The measure of soil's acidity. Soil with low pH means it's too acidic; soil with high pH means it's alkaline. Most plants grow best in soil with a pH value between 6.5 and 7.2. Neutral soils measure 7.

Gardening Glossary
photosynthesis
The process through which plants take nutrients from the air and from the water in the soil to produce sugars that fuels the plant's growth.

Gardening Glossary
primary nutrients
Nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium are the three nutrients plants need in the largest quantities.

Gardening Glossary
root crops
Plants with edible underground roots such as onions, carrots, beets, potatoes, turnips. Most root crops are cold-weather crops.

Gardening Glossary
self-blanching
A type of cauliflower with leaves that naturally curl over the head and exclude light. Requires cool temperatures for leaves to curl effectively.

Gardening Glossary
sets
Small onion bulbs, about 1/2-inch wide, that were started from seed the previous year. Grow onion sets with the pointy end up.

Gardening Glossary
side-dressing
The act of adding a small amount of fertilizer around or "on the side" of plants after they're growing.

Gardening Glossary
succession planting
Planting small, 2-to-4-foot patches of plants every two weeks throughout the growing season so that you can harvest a crop over an extended period of time.

Gardening Glossary
thinning
The act of cutting the least robust seedlings in your garden to give the healthier plants more room to grow.

Gardening Glossary
vining crops
Crops that grow on vines, such as cucumbers, melons, pumpkins, and winter squash. They usually require support (staking, trellising, etc.) to keep them off the ground.