How to Make Compost
Compost is an essential soil amendment that contributes nutrients and improves soil texture. You can buy it, but making your own compost saves money. The process isn't complicated, and commercial composting bins and containers on the market make composting a mess-free, hassle-free process.
When you make compost, you create a pile of material to be composted, mix the materials thoroughly at the correct ratios of carbon and nitrogen and keep the pile watered just enough to keep it moist but with enough air to breathe. Using this method, you can enjoy finished compost in a month or two.
How to build a good compost pile
A well-constructed and well-maintained compost pile provides the proper amount of water and oxygen for aerobic bacteria, which work quickly, generating heat as a byproduct of their activity. This heat helps material break down quickly and kills many diseases, insects, and weed seeds.
Here are the steps on how to build a compost pile:
Choose a shady location that's out of the way.
The soil under the site should be well drained.
Make (or buy) a bin.
You can build your own or buy a commercial home composting unit.

Make a simple wooden bin.

Commercial composters make composting easy.
Add dry materials.
Add a 6-inch layer of dry organic matter ¯ such as hay, straw, old leaves, untreated sawdust ¯ to the bottom of the container.
Add fresh materials.
Add a 2- to 3-inch layer of fresh organic matter ¯ such as grass clippings, manure, table scraps, or even high-nitrogen fertilizer such as cottonseed meal ¯ on top of the dry layer.
Keep adding these layers, watering each one as you go, until the pile is 4 to 5 feet tall and fills the bin.
A smaller pile won't heat up well enough to break down the materials, and a larger pile can be difficult to manage.
In two days, mix the layers thoroughly.
Particle size should be varied; smaller particles hasten decomposition.
Cover the pile with a tarp to preserve moisture.
The pile will start to cook within a week.
Keep the pile moist by watering it periodically.
Dig into the pile about 1 foot to see whether it's moist. If not, water the pile thoroughly, but not so much that it's soggy.
Turn the pile when it cools down.
Using a garden fork, remove the outside layers and put them aside. Remove the inside layers into another pile and then switch. Place the outside layers in the center of the new pile and the inside layers along the outside of the new pile. Loosen any matted clumps.
Let it cook again.
When the pile is cool, turn it again. You should have finished compost after two to three turnings. The finished product should be cool and crumbly, with a dark color and earthy smell.
What goes into a compost pile
What you put in the compost pile is up to you. Here's a short list of possibilities:
Hay, straw, pine needles, leaves, yard trimmings, and weeds
Kitchen scraps (eggshells, old bread, vegetable and fruit scraps)
Manure from non-meat eaters (poultry, horse, cow, rabbit, sheep, goat)
Sawdust and small wood chips
Shredded newspaper
Not everything can go into a compost pile. Don't add
Sawdust
Fish or meat scraps
Fatty or oily scraps
Charcoal ash
Manure from meat-eaters (human, dog, cat, lizard)
Pressure-treated wood, chemically treated wood
Weeds with mature seed heads
Diseased plants or trimmings

Gardening Glossary
annuals
Plants that complete their entire life cycle within one growing season. The plant germinates from seed, grows and blooms, and then produces seed and dies.

Gardening Glossary
biennials
A plant that take two growing seasons to complete its life cycle. It germinates and grows leaves and stems in the first year; produces flowers and fruit (seed) in the second, and then dies.

Gardening Glossary
bolt
When a plant flowers or produces seed prematurely.

Gardening Glossary
cold frame
A wooden or concrete block box in which you can grow plants or hold dormant during the cold winter months.

Gardening Glossary
cole crops
A family of vegetables, including broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, kale, and Brussels sprouts. They thrive in cooler weather.

Gardening Glossary
complete fertilizer
Any fertilizer that contains all three of the primary nutrients, N-P-K (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium). Phrase is based on regulations governing the fertilizer industry. Does not mean that the fertilizer literally contains everything a plant needs to thrive.

Gardening Glossary
deadheading
The practice of pinching or cutting off spent flowers

Gardening Glossary
evaporative-pad humidifier
A humidifier in which fans blow across a moisture-laden pad that sits in a reservoir of water.

Gardening Glossary
harden off
The process of acclimating plants grown indoors gradually to the brighter light and cooler temperatures of the outside world.

Gardening Glossary
hardiness
The ability of a plant to survive is called its hardiness.

Gardening Glossary
humus
A stable end product of organic-matter decomposition that's believed to increase microbial activity in soil, improve soil structure, and enhance the root development of plants.

Gardening Glossary
Bacillus thuringiensis Bt
An effective bacteria that attacks only the larvae of caterpillar family insects. It is safe to other insects, animals, and humans.

Gardening Glossary
macronutrients
Mineral nutrients that plants need in the largest quantities: nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, and sulfur.

Gardening Glossary
mulch
Organic or inorganic material placed over the surface of soil, usually directly over the root zone of growing plants. Used to conserve moisture, kill weed seedlings, modify soil temperature, provide attractive covering to garden beds.

Gardening Glossary
organic matter
Once-living stuff like compost, sawdust, animal manure, ground bark, grass clippings, and leaf mold (composted tree leaves). Used to enrich soil and improve soil texture.

Gardening Glossary
perennials
Any plant with a life cycle of three or more years. Herbaceous (non-woody) perennials include flowering plants and herbs, mainly. Woody perennials include trees and shrubs. Longevity depends on the plant and growing conditions.

Gardening Glossary
pH
The measure of soil's acidity. Soil with low pH means it's too acidic; soil with high pH means it's alkaline. Most plants grow best in soil with a pH value between 6.5 and 7.2. Neutral soils measure 7.

Gardening Glossary
photosynthesis
The process through which plants take nutrients from the air and from the water in the soil to produce sugars that fuels the plant's growth.

Gardening Glossary
primary nutrients
Nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium are the three nutrients plants need in the largest quantities.

Gardening Glossary
root crops
Plants with edible underground roots such as onions, carrots, beets, potatoes, turnips. Most root crops are cold-weather crops.

Gardening Glossary
self-blanching
A type of cauliflower with leaves that naturally curl over the head and exclude light. Requires cool temperatures for leaves to curl effectively.

Gardening Glossary
sets
Small onion bulbs, about 1/2-inch wide, that were started from seed the previous year. Grow onion sets with the pointy end up.

Gardening Glossary
side-dressing
The act of adding a small amount of fertilizer around or "on the side" of plants after they're growing.

Gardening Glossary
succession planting
Planting small, 2-to-4-foot patches of plants every two weeks throughout the growing season so that you can harvest a crop over an extended period of time.

Gardening Glossary
thinning
The act of cutting the least robust seedlings in your garden to give the healthier plants more room to grow.

Gardening Glossary
vining crops
Crops that grow on vines, such as cucumbers, melons, pumpkins, and winter squash. They usually require support (staking, trellising, etc.) to keep them off the ground.