How to Groom a Labrador Retriever
The Labrador Retriever has a wash-and-wear coat, but that doesn't mean you don't need to regularly groom your dog. Regularly grooming your Labrador Retriever not only improves your bond with your animal, it also gives you the opportunity to spot problems before they get out of hand. A regular grooming routine will usually consist of
Inspecting: Begin each grooming session with a head to toe massage. Feel for any lumps, bumps, dry patches, hair loss, or anything else abnormal. Massaging a dog also helps to loosen dead hair and skin so that it can be brushed away.
Pick up each foot and wiggle each toe, feel the footpads, and then gently examine and rub each ear. Getting your Labrador Retriever used to having these tender areas touched will make it easier for your vet to treat him if he gets injured.
Brushing: A thorough brushing once a week with a natural or nylon bristle brush is all your Lab needs to stay clean. However daily brushing feels great to your Lab and keeps her immaculately clean. The brushing action stimulates the natural oils in the skin, which will keep her coat glistening.
Bathing: Labs don't need to be bathed too often. Bathe your Lab only when he gets really dirty. Frequent bathing can actually dry out their skin. (Thank goodness, because bathing a full grown lab can be a challenging experience.)
Try to give your Lab plenty of time to play outdoors every day. The outdoor air helps to keep their skin moist.
Cleaning the eyes: Check your Lab's eyes regularly for discharge or irritation. If they need it, clean by wiping with a cotton ball doused in saline.
You may notice staining around the eyes of a yellow Lab. This is completely natural and caused by the dog's tears. If it bothers you, you can remove the stains with a cotton ball soaked in hydrogen peroxide. However, be sure to put a drop of mineral oil in each eye first to shield it from the peroxide.
If you see discharge, irritation or a change in the general appearance of the eye, take her to the vet as soon as you can. She might have a serious eye problem.
Cleaning the ears: If your Lab's ears look dirty or waxy, you can clean the visible parts with a cotton ball or cotton swab dampened with ear cleaner.
If your dog is scratching or shaking her ears a lot and you can't see any reason, or if you notice redness or a bad smell, take your dog to the vet. She could have mites, or an infection that will need to be treated.
Clipping: One of the most important aspects of your daily grooming is keeping your dog's nails clipped. Long nails force the footpads apart and make it difficult for your dog to walk correctly. Your puppy will soon realize that it doesn't hurt—as long as you don't cut down too far. You can see the quick in the nails of light-colored Labs, but in black or chocolate Labs, you'll just have to guess.
If you clip nails frequently, the quick retracts out of the way. If you do clip the quick, you can use a styptic stick or even Chap Stick to help stop the bleeding.
Some Labs develop cysts between their toes. A topical antibiotic ointment may help. If not, your vet may need to lance the cyst. See you vet if you think the cyst has become infected.
Teeth: Brush your dog's teeth daily to keep her healthy all over. In fact, dental plaque can get into your dog's bloodstream and into her heart, causing heart disease. Use a soft toothbrush designed for dogs or children and doggie toothpaste. Just lift the dog's lips and gently brush the outer surface of the teeth.
If your Labrador Retriever already has a build-up of plaque, your vet can remove it. Your vet will probably have to anesthetize your dog, so that it's not too traumatic. But then you'll need to follow up with regular brushing.
Canned dog food is more likely to cause dental problems than dry dog food. The greater moisture content makes canned dog food stick to your Lab's teeth. Dry dog food is not only equally nutritious, but it cleans teeth and is more cost-effective.
Pest control: Apply a pest-control product if necessary. The vet can help you find the best product for your area, but the product you choose should cover ticks, fleas, and worms.
Dogs Glossary
A-B-C assessment
Checking a dog’s airway, breathing, and circulation.
Dogs Glossary
animal shelter
1. An animal control agency run by local government to protect people from animals, take in strays, and manage animal issues and problems within the community. 2. A privately run shelter managed by individuals who want to protect, advocate for, and find homes for animals.
Dogs Glossary
BARF diet
A method of feeding dogs as closely as possible what they would eat in the wild: raw flesh and bones, along with vegetable matter from the stomachs of their prey. The acronym stands for either Bones and Raw Food or Biologically Appropriate Raw Food.
Dogs Glossary
blow out
A twice-yearly shedding of a dog’s undercoat.
Dogs Glossary
blue slip
An application to register a purebred puppy.
Dogs Glossary
breeder
A person who raises, sells, and often shows dogs of a specific breed. Reputable breeders screen parent dogs in an effort to produce healthy dogs that conform to breed standards.
Dogs Glossary
castrate
The removal of a male dog’s testicles to render him infertile.
Dogs Glossary
clicker
A small hand-held device that makes a sharp cracking sound when pressed. Paired with a food reward, an effective dog-training tool.
Dogs Glossary
cohesive bandage
A stretchy wrap that clings to itself used to cover and secure gauze bandages without tape.
Dogs Glossary
come into season
The advent of a female dog’s term of fertility.
Dogs Glossary
dead ring
The stationary ring on a training collar that pulls on the collar, not the dog’s neck.
Dogs Glossary
double coat
Two layers of fur — a top coat of stiff guard hairs and an undercoat that serves as insulation.
Dogs Glossary
dropped ears
The term for hanging or drooping dog ears.
Dogs Glossary
Elizabethan collar
A wide, cone-shaped plastic or cardboard collar that prevents a dog from being able to scratch her head. Used to prevent further injury or hasten healing.
Dogs Glossary
euthanize; put to sleep
To kill an animal to relieve suffering.
Dogs Glossary
fall
Hair that extends over a dog’s eyes.
Dogs Glossary
feathering
Long hair that runs from armpit to paw on the backs of a dog’s legs.
Dogs Glossary
free-feeding
Keeping a constant supply of dog food available so that the dog can decide when and how much to eat. It works best in single-dog households where there’s no competition for food.
Dogs Glossary
heartworms
Parasites that live in dogs’ hearts and cause heart failure. They’re transferred through mosquito bites.
Dogs Glossary
heat
The period when a female dog is fertile.
Dogs Glossary
heel
A command and position in which a dog walks at your left side staying with you as you change direction or pace.
Dogs Glossary
hip dysplasia
A painful malformation of a dog’s hip socket. Some breeds are genetically predisposed to the condition.
Dogs Glossary
hot spot
A localized area of skin infection. It’s usually round, red, and warm to the touch.
Dogs Glossary
live ring
The floating ring of a training collar. Attach a leash to this ring for training purposes.
Dogs Glossary
neuter
A general term to describe either spaying or castrating a dog to render it infertile. Neutering and castrating are often used interchangeably.
Dogs Glossary
pantaloons
The tufts of hair on the backs of a long-haired dogs legs that make him look like he’s wearing bloomers.
Dogs Glossary
pedigree
A diagram of a dog’s ancestors for three or more generations that lists the registered names of the dogs and the titles they earned.
Dogs Glossary
pinch collar
A training collar with interlocking prongs that pinch a dog’s neck when tugged on. Some veterinarians recommend them above all other collars for training purposes.
Dogs Glossary
praise
A verbal reward for a dog , such as an enthusiastic “good dog!”
Dogs Glossary
prong collar
A training collar with interlocking prongs that pinch a dog’s neck when tugged on. Some veterinarians recommend them above all other collars for training purposes.
Dogs Glossary
pulse
Normal dog pulse is between 70 and 120 beats per minute. The pulse of a puppy ranges from 120 to 160 beats per minute.
Dogs Glossary
puppy mill
A place that supplies puppies to pet stores, usually without screening for possible genetic defects or properly socializing the puppies.
Dogs Glossary
registration certificate
The paper certifying a dog’s registration with an accredited organization.
Dogs Glossary
registration slip
An application to register a purebred puppy.
Dogs Glossary
release word
A word that lets a dog know that she is free to move.
Dogs Glossary
rescue group
A network of animal lovers who rescue and find new homes for their favorite breeds or animals.
Dogs Glossary
reward
To give a dog a treat for a correct response while he’s still in the desired position.
Dogs Glossary
ruff
The long, thick fur around a dog’s chest, shoulders, and neck.
Dogs Glossary
separation anxiety
A condition in which your dog becomes anxious and stressed when you leave him.
Dogs Glossary
shed
A twice-yearly process of casting off the undercoat in a double-coated dog.
Dogs Glossary
single coat
A single layer of hairs that comprises a dog’s fur.
Dogs Glossary
spay
To remove of both the uterus and the ovaries of a dog to render her infertile.
Dogs Glossary
stripping
Plucking the dead hairs from a dog’s coat.
Dogs Glossary
titer tests
Tests that check a dog’s immunity levels to determine exactly which vaccinations are needed.
Dogs Glossary
top coat
The top layer of a double-coated dog composed of stiff guard hairs that tend to be naturally water-repellant. The top coat protects the dog’s skin and undercoat.
Dogs Glossary
training collar
A collar that enables you to guide your dog and to check her as necessary — a brief, sharp tug tightens the collar around the dog’s neck.
Dogs Glossary
treat cup
A plastic container filled with small treats or dog food. Shake it and give treats from it as a reward as you train a dog.
Dogs Glossary
undercoat
Fleecy or downy fur shorter than the top layer of a double-coated dog. The undercoat serves as insulation.
