How to Compost with Worms
Vermicomposting is a composting method that employs certain worm species to consume and convert organic matter into a useful soil amendment and organic fertilizer. Provide moist bedding at all times for your worms to romp around in while they process your organic matter. Over time, worms consume their bedding along with your food scraps, but that's okay. By then, you'll be ready to harvest castings and provide fresh bedding.
Making bedding for your worms requires only two materials: two handfuls of native soil and newspaper or computer paper. You may also use leaves and shredded cardboard for bedding, either in place of paper or in addition to it.
Follow these steps to make your worms the sort of bedding they'll never want to leave:
Wash bins thoroughly before adding bedding and worms.
Tear paper into 1-inch (2.5-centimeter) strips.
Fill one side of your sink with water. Soak the paper in it. Lift it out and let excess water drain in the other side of the sink. Don't squeeze the paper because then it will dry into hard chunks.
Lightly place the paper in the bin.
Composting worms work in 8 to 12 inches (20 to 30 centimeters) of bedding depth. Fill the bin at least 12 inches (30 centimeters) deep because the bedding will settle a bit. Fluff up the bedding so that it's loose, with air pockets, rather than compacted.
Sprinkle two handfuls of your native soil into the bedding.
This provides grit for the worms' digestive process and adds microorganisms to aid with decomposition.
Bury one handful of food scraps in the bedding.
Don't overwhelm wigglers with too much food in the first week while they're getting acclimated. When these scraps are gone, add more, gradually working up to greater quantities.
Place your red wigglers on top of the moist bedding and they'll begin disappearing into it. If they seem slow to go, shine a bright light above the bin. They should dive for the dark depths.
Vermicomposting worms in your indoor bin eat the same organic goodies that you add to an outdoor compost pile, including spent garden plants, landscape trimmings, scrap paper, and kitchen scraps.
Plan on feeding your worms about half their weight in food scraps per day. When starting a new bin, offer just a handful of food until they get acclimated and start digging into your provisions. As a general guideline, feed your worms when the majority of the previous food has disappeared.
The more variety in ingredients, the better the vermicompost. Try not to overload your worm bin with fruit and vegetable skins, which may attract vinegar flies. Also, avoid lots of salty food waste, which will dry out the poor little worms. Worms are known to have food preferences (really), so experiment to see what your red wigglers prefer. Here's a hint: sweet mushy stuff like melon, pumpkin, and squash is often popular. Other good additions include
Just as there are items that shouldn't be added to a regular compost pile, the following items aren't appropriate worm food:
Meat, fish, or dairy: These foodstuffs may turn rancid and smelly as they decompose, as well as attract undesirables such as houseflies or vinegar flies (also called fruit flies).
Greases and oils: Worms breathe through their skin. Oils and grease coat their skin and prevent them from breathing.
Pet or human waste: It may contain pathogens that are transmitted to humans.
Chopping scraps into 2- to 4-inch (5- to 10-centimeter) bits speeds the decomposition process in your vermicomposting bin, just as it does in your outdoor compost pile. However, it isn't always essential if you aren't in a hurry and your bin has been functioning well.

Gardening Glossary
annuals
Plants that complete their entire life cycle within one growing season. The plant germinates from seed, grows and blooms, and then produces seed and dies.

Gardening Glossary
biennials
A plant that take two growing seasons to complete its life cycle. It germinates and grows leaves and stems in the first year; produces flowers and fruit (seed) in the second, and then dies.

Gardening Glossary
bolt
When a plant flowers or produces seed prematurely.

Gardening Glossary
cold frame
A wooden or concrete block box in which you can grow plants or hold dormant during the cold winter months.

Gardening Glossary
cole crops
A family of vegetables, including broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, kale, and Brussels sprouts. They thrive in cooler weather.

Gardening Glossary
complete fertilizer
Any fertilizer that contains all three of the primary nutrients, N-P-K (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium). Phrase is based on regulations governing the fertilizer industry. Does not mean that the fertilizer literally contains everything a plant needs to thrive.

Gardening Glossary
deadheading
The practice of pinching or cutting off spent flowers

Gardening Glossary
evaporative-pad humidifier
A humidifier in which fans blow across a moisture-laden pad that sits in a reservoir of water.

Gardening Glossary
harden off
The process of acclimating plants grown indoors gradually to the brighter light and cooler temperatures of the outside world.

Gardening Glossary
hardiness
The ability of a plant to survive is called its hardiness.

Gardening Glossary
humus
A stable end product of organic-matter decomposition that's believed to increase microbial activity in soil, improve soil structure, and enhance the root development of plants.

Gardening Glossary
Bacillus thuringiensis Bt
An effective bacteria that attacks only the larvae of caterpillar family insects. It is safe to other insects, animals, and humans.

Gardening Glossary
macronutrients
Mineral nutrients that plants need in the largest quantities: nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, and sulfur.

Gardening Glossary
mulch
Organic or inorganic material placed over the surface of soil, usually directly over the root zone of growing plants. Used to conserve moisture, kill weed seedlings, modify soil temperature, provide attractive covering to garden beds.

Gardening Glossary
organic matter
Once-living stuff like compost, sawdust, animal manure, ground bark, grass clippings, and leaf mold (composted tree leaves). Used to enrich soil and improve soil texture.

Gardening Glossary
perennials
Any plant with a life cycle of three or more years. Herbaceous (non-woody) perennials include flowering plants and herbs, mainly. Woody perennials include trees and shrubs. Longevity depends on the plant and growing conditions.

Gardening Glossary
pH
The measure of soil's acidity. Soil with low pH means it's too acidic; soil with high pH means it's alkaline. Most plants grow best in soil with a pH value between 6.5 and 7.2. Neutral soils measure 7.

Gardening Glossary
photosynthesis
The process through which plants take nutrients from the air and from the water in the soil to produce sugars that fuels the plant's growth.

Gardening Glossary
primary nutrients
Nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium are the three nutrients plants need in the largest quantities.

Gardening Glossary
root crops
Plants with edible underground roots such as onions, carrots, beets, potatoes, turnips. Most root crops are cold-weather crops.

Gardening Glossary
self-blanching
A type of cauliflower with leaves that naturally curl over the head and exclude light. Requires cool temperatures for leaves to curl effectively.

Gardening Glossary
sets
Small onion bulbs, about 1/2-inch wide, that were started from seed the previous year. Grow onion sets with the pointy end up.

Gardening Glossary
side-dressing
The act of adding a small amount of fertilizer around or "on the side" of plants after they're growing.

Gardening Glossary
succession planting
Planting small, 2-to-4-foot patches of plants every two weeks throughout the growing season so that you can harvest a crop over an extended period of time.

Gardening Glossary
thinning
The act of cutting the least robust seedlings in your garden to give the healthier plants more room to grow.

Gardening Glossary
vining crops
Crops that grow on vines, such as cucumbers, melons, pumpkins, and winter squash. They usually require support (staking, trellising, etc.) to keep them off the ground.