How to Choose the Right Goats for Your Needs
Nothing is worse than buying some goats, bringing them home, getting attached to them, and then discovering that they won't work out in your situation, are the wrong type, or aren't what the seller represented. Here are some characteristics to consider when looking for goats to buy:
Goats need company: A lot of people make the mistake of getting only one goat. Goats are herd animals. They live and move in groups and respond to each other's cues. They bond to their family members.
You'll have a much easier time if you buy a pair from the same herd and, unless you want them to be unrelated for breeding purposes, from the same family. They adjust more quickly if they're with someone they know.
Size matters: Unless you have unlimited space and feed, you need to consider the size of the goats you get. If you live in the city or have a small acreage, consider small breeds such as the miniature dairy breeds for milk, the kinder (a Nubian/Pygmy cross) for meat, or the Pygora (Pygmy/Angora) for fiber.
Horns can hurt: Even if you object to removing horns, think carefully before you bring home a goat with horns. Horns can cause physical pain to another goat or person; they can also hurt your pocketbook when you have to replace a fence, pay for a lawsuit, or pay medical or veterinary bills.
Find out whether the breed you want is one that is normally kept horned. Fiber sheep, for example, need horns because the horns provide them with natural temperature control in the heat. Some meat goats are also not normally disbudded.
If you get a breed that is normally disbudded or polled, selling kids may not be as easy if they still have horns. You also won't want to keep horned and hornless goats together because they aren't evenly matched.
Registered or unregistered: If you just want a couple of goats to love, spend time with, and use for help keeping down the noxious weeds, then you don't need registered goats. Registered goats cost a little more, but they aren't necessarily any better. Registered goats are required to have identification, such as a tattoo or a microchip, which can be helpful if they are stolen. Registration also gives you some assurance that the goat is the breed and has the potential the seller claims. Registered goats are more valuable, so if you want to sell surplus kids, you can usually get more money for them than for unregistered ones. Most goat shows require entrants to be registered.

Goat Glossary
abscess
An inflamed collection of pus caused by bacteria.

Goat Glossary
brood doe
A female goat that is kept for breeding purposes.

Goat Glossary

Goat Glossary
buckling
A young male goat.

Goat Glossary
cannon bone
The shin bone.

Goat Glossary
Caseous lymphadenitis CLA
A highly contagious disease caused by a bacterium, Cornybacterium pseudotuberculosis.

Goat Glossary
chaffhaye
Roughage that has the added benefit of containing good bacteria that aid in digestion.

Goat Glossary
chine
The are of a goat's spine directly behind the withers.

Goat Glossary
colostrum
A rich, immune-system-boosting fluid that kids need during their first days after birth.

Goat Glossary

Goat Glossary

Goat Glossary
doeling
A young female goat.

Goat Glossary
enterotoxemia
A disease also called overeating disease because it comes about when a goat eats too much grain, lush grasses, or milk.

Goat Glossary
escutcheon
The area between the back legs, where the udder lies in a doe.

Goat Glossary
foreudder attachment
Attachment of the front of the udder by the belly.

Goat Glossary
foundation stock
The stock you start your breeding program with.

Goat Glossary

Goat Glossary
fuzzy goat show
A goat show held in the early spring in a part of the country where the weather is still cold; you only need to do minimal clipping.

Goat Glossary
hypocalcemia
Often called milk fever, this is a deficiency of calcium in the blood that arises when a doe doesn’t get enough calcium in her diet to support her needs and the needs of her unborn kids.

Goat Glossary
ketosis
A metabolic imbalance that usually goes hand-in-hand with hypocalcemia. It is caused when a goat doesn’t get enough energy because she has stopped eating.

Goat Glossary
kid
A goat less than a year old.

Goat Glossary
mastitis
An inflammation of the udder, often caused by bacteria.

Goat Glossary
milk stand
A piece of equipment that a goat stands on with her head secured.

Goat Glossary
pannier
A pair of baskets or bags designed to carry loads on the backs of pack animals.

Goat Glossary
pasteurization
The heating of milk to destroy bacteria and other harmful organisms.

Goat Glossary
polled
Naturally hornless.

Goat Glossary
precocious milker
A doe that has udder development and milk production without kidding.

Goat Glossary
registered goat
A goat that meets the standards of appearance for its breed and is recorded in the herdbook of the goat association for that particular breed. A registered goat usually is a purebred but may be a crossbreed (called an American or an Experimental).

Goat Glossary
rolag
A cylindrical roll of wool or fleece that is used to spin yarn.

Goat Glossary
roving
A long strand of ready-to-spin carded fiber.

Goat Glossary
ruminant
An animal that has a stomach with four compartments and chews cud as part of the digestive process.

Goat Glossary
scours
The term that livestock owners use to talk about diarrhea in their animals.

Goat Glossary
sire
A goat's father; the act of fathering a goat.

Goat Glossary
stifle joint
The equivalent of a knee in a goat.

Goat Glossary
thurl
The hip joint, usually referred to in relation to the levelness between the thurls.

Goat Glossary
wether
A castrated male goat.

Goat Glossary
withers
The area of a goat's spine where the shoulder blades meet at the base of the neck.

Goat Glossary
yearling
A goat that is between one and two years old.