Getting Around Rome

Rome's historic hills are no myth: They are real — and sometimes even steep. The one myth is that there are only seven of them. Rome may look flat on a map, but it's very hilly. You'll soon understand why locals use mopeds (or cars, unfortunately) and public transportation, and why you see so few bicycles around. Remember also that the city is thousands of years old, meaning that much of it isn't designed for any mode of conveyance other than the human foot. There are times, however, when you'll welcome public transportation. Taxis, for example, are a great convenience when crossing large sections of the city.

By subway (metro)

Although the Metropolitana, or metro for short, has only two lines (work has just started on the third line, which is not close to completion), it is the best way to get around because the underground routes don't suffer from the terrible city traffic. In addition, the routes stay the same — unlike the city bus system, which is under constant reorganization. Line A Battistini-Anagnina and Line B Laurentina-Rebibbia cross at Termini station. A big red M marks all metro entrances. The metro runs Sunday through Friday from 5:30 a.m. to 11:30 p.m. and Saturday from 5:30 a.m. to 12:30 a.m.

The Colosseum, Circus Maximus, and Cavour stops on Line B don't offer full elevator/lift service and aren't accessible to travelers with disabilities.

By bus and tram

Rome's bus system is large and under continuous improvement, yet the city's ancient layout resists modernization, so things don't always go smoothly. Buses are very crowded at rush hour, and traffic jams are endemic. Still, buses remain excellent resources because they go absolutely everywhere in Rome. Rome also has a few tram lines; they aren't as spectacular as the cable cars in San Francisco, but they're fun to ride.

On foot

Walking is by far the best way to experience Rome, because you see the most as you wander the curving streets that merge, narrow to almost shoulder width, change names, and meander among beautiful old buildings. Wear very comfortable shoes, and be ready to switch to another form of transportation — which will usually be handy — should you get tired.

To enjoy Rome's delightful labyrinth, you need a good map. The free tourist-office map is quite good, but it doesn't have a stradario (street directory), which is essential for locating addresses. You can buy a detailed map with a stradario at any newsstand and many bookstores.

By taxi

Taxi rates are reasonable, but the fare can add up during busy times of day when you're stuck in traffic. They're a great resource for getting to your hotel from the train station and traveling around at night after the buses and metro stop running.

Taxis don't cruise the street; they return to taxi stands and wait for a call. That means you usually cannot hail a taxi on the street unless you happen to find one returning to a stand. You'll find many taxi stands, especially near major landmarks. You can identify taxi stands by a smallish telephone on a pole marked TAXI. If you're starting from a place with a phone — a hotel or restaurant, say — asking the staff to call a taxi for you is easiest.

By motor scooter (motorino)

Most Romans travel on mopeds, or so it seems when you're on a street corner waiting for the signal to turn green. If you have some two-wheel experience — Rome is most definitely not the place to learn how to operate a scooter — the best spot to rent a motorino is Treno e Scooter (TeS) on Via Marsala, just outside Termini station by the taxi stand and metro entrance. The scooters are very good quality, and the prices (for example, 52 euro/$68 for the weekend) include insurance, taxes, and a free map; TeS also rents bicycles.

Riding a scooter can be dangerous in Rome's busiest areas. Accidents are increasingly common, and scooters are pretty flimsy compared with cars. However, it's a great way to travel on Sundays and holidays, when car and bus traffic is light, or to explore quiet neighborhoods.