Exploring Grand Teton National Park

Although the United States has taller mountains and ranges that are longer and older, you'll be hard-pressed to find anything more rugged and picturesque than Wyoming's Teton Range.

True, the craggy, battleship gray Grand Teton (known simply as the Grand) tops out at only 13,770 feet, whereas quite a few other Rocky Mountain peaks surpass 14,000 feet. But to understand the magnificence of this park, you must consider the setting. The Grand ratchets almost 7,000 vertical feet straight up from the Jackson Hole valley floor. Without any foothills to temper the rise, its 13,770 feet are in-your-face impressive. Plus, the peaks and surrounding terrain have been clawed, carved, and sculpted by several periods of glaciation that also left behind some sparkling lakes. This all adds up to a beautiful, remarkable setting that demands attention, encourages recreation, and pays off with great satisfaction.

The Grand offers several world-class climbs. Some climbers tackle the mountain on their own, but others rely on the guidance of Jackson's two resident climbing outfitters: Exum Mountain Guides and Jackson Hole Mountain Guides. But a trip to Grand Teton isn't wasted if you can't climb the Grand. Just looking at these peaks justifies a trip to western Wyoming.

Grand Teton National Park is more than just mountains. You find lakes of all sizes, from the sisterly trio of Jenny, Leigh, and String that graces the front of the Tetons to Jackson Lake — a natural glacial lake, enlarged in 1906 by a dam, where you can rent a motorboat for an afternoon of fishing or a canoe for a leisurely paddle.

East of Jenny, Leigh, and String lakes are rolling sagebrush flats (favorites with pronghorn antelope) that surround U.S. Route 26/89/191 as the highway travels, north to south, the length of the park. Paralleling the road to the west is the trout-filled Snake River, which braids its way from Jackson Lake Dam 27 miles through the park before adding some punch for white-water enthusiasts in the stretch that runs south of Jackson.

You find swathes of thick evergreen forest in Grand Teton, steep canyons gnawed into the landscape by cascading streams that run flush with melting snow in spring, and lush meadows colored by wildflowers in late June. In 1998, the arrival of wolves from Yellowstone to the north added a dash more wildness to the park, fleshing out a menagerie that already included bison, elk, moose, coyotes, mountain lions, and grizzly bears.

The Old West is kept alive by ranchers who graze cattle inside the park, by the nearby town of Jackson lined with wooden boardwalks, and by the coyote yips and wolf howls in the cool evening air.

With its combination of stunning landscapes and comfortable accommodations, Grand Teton a rugged and a relaxing park, one where you can test your outdoors skills or rest with a book in the afternoon shadow of America's Matterhorn.

When to go and how long to stay

Grand Teton is a year-round playground, although some seasons are definitely better than others. Summer weather is wonderful, with daily highs roaming between the mid-70s and the high 80s, little humidity, and an occasional thunderstorm followed by cool, clear nights; however, most of the park's 4.1 million yearly visitors show up during this season. The crowds taper off during fall, which is my favorite season in the park. During autumn, aspens flutter in their golden glory, the evenings' crispness is intoxicating, and animals are more visible as they prepare for winter. Although winter can be brutally cold and snowy, the season provides great opportunities for cross-country skiing and snowshoeing. Because of late-season snowfalls and mud, spring is about the worst time for a visit.

Plan to spend at least two to three days in Grand Teton National Park.

Remembering safety

While taking in the many sights of Grand Teton National Park, keep the following precautions in mind.

Prepare for the high elevation. Even the lowest parts of the park are more than a mile above sea level, which can leave you gasping for breath if you're coming from the lowlands and jump right into cycling, hiking, paddling, skiing, or climbing without acclimating to the park's thinner air. Take at least a day or two to get acclimated to the elevation.

Watch out for bears. Be aware of the park's resident grizzly and black bears. The grizzly bear population is small, but black bears abound in the park. Before you head out on a hike, check with rangers for any reports of recent bear activity. On the trail, I recommend hiking in groups of two to four people and talking or singing loudly so you don't surprise any wildlife lurking just around the next bend. Carrying bear pepper spray in an easily accessible location is also a good idea.

Be wary of other beasts. The park also has bison, moose, and elk. They may look cuddly, but their horns and antlers are not merely ornamental, so keep your distance. Moose are also highly adept at stomping anything they don't like, and even though they look ungainly, they're surprisingly quick and agile.

Look out for your fellow tourists. Paying attention to other park visitors while tooling down the roads, particularly the Teton Park Road, is always a good idea. Often people become so caught up with the scenery that they actually forget to look where they're going — a recipe for disaster on this curvy, busy road. Also, if you're driving, watch out for cyclists, and if you're pedaling, keep an eye out for motorists.

Swim with caution. Do you plan to head to one of the lakes for a dip? It's a great way to cool off during the summer heat, but you won't find any lifeguards in the park, so be careful.