Dealing with Your Dog's Pack-Mentality Aggression
Aggressiveness in dogs comes in three types (or drives): prey, pack, and defense. The triggers are different in each drive, and so is the management, or cure. Discovering how to anticipate your dog's reaction under certain situations is part of managing his behavior.
Behavior options
Other than ignoring or putting up with the behavior, you have three basic options:
- Expending the energy: Each behavior has a timeframe, or energy, and it can be managed by expending that energy, which means exercise specifically focused on that energy. The exercise can be playing ball, jogging, playing tug-of-war games, or whatever. Training is always a good idea.
- Suppressing the energy: This option means that the dog isn't given an outlet for the energy. Suppression can be an effective temporary solution, provided that the dog has periodic opportunities to expend the energy. Absolute or long-term suppression isn't a good idea. The energy only redirects itself into another undesirable behavior.
- Switching the drive: When Buddy growls at another dog, for example, he's in defense drive. To manage the situation, switch him into pack drive. Cheerfully say something like "You must be joking" and walk away in the opposite direction.
Depending on the situation, you're going to use a combination of the three options in your management program.
Aggression from dogs high in pack drive
Pack drive consists of behaviors associated with reproduction and being part of a group. Dogs in pack drive may
- Show signs of aggression toward people
- Attack other dogs with no apparent reason
- Not stop the attack when the other dog submits
Triggers
The problem with this kind of aggression is that there aren't many obvious triggers. This behavior is frequently observed in dogs that are taken away from their litter and mother before 7 weeks of age. Between 5 and 7 weeks of age, a puppy learns to inhibit his biting. He also learns canine body language at this time. In short, your puppy learns he's a dog. Puppies that haven't learned these lessons tend to be overly protective of their owners and may be aggressive toward other people and dogs. They can't interpret body language and haven't learned bite inhibition.
In a household with more than one dog, while one dog is being petted and the other is seeking your attention at the same time, the dog being petted may aggress toward the other dog. Being overly possessive is common behavior in adopted older dogs and rescued dogs.
Lack of adequate socialization with people and other dogs prior to 6 months of age can cause subsequent aggressive behaviors. For example, a dog with an owner who is a single woman can be aggressive toward men. The cause could be lack of socialization or exposure to men.
Management: Aggression toward people
You can solve a lack of socialization with other people by gradually getting the dog used to accepting another person. Take the case of a man-aggressive dog, for example. As always, the job is made easier when the dog has some basic training and knows simple commands like "Sit" and "Stay."
Here's how to get your dog to accept another person:
1. Begin with Buddy sitting at Heel position, in Control Position (no tension on the leash and only 1/2 inch of slack).
2. Have the person walk past the dog from a distance of six feet, without looking at the dog.
3. Just before he passes the dog, have the person throw Buddy a small piece of a hot dog or another treat.
4. Repeat Steps 1 through 3 five times per session — but no more.
5. When Buddy shows no signs of aggression at six feet, decrease the distance.
6. Keep decreasing the distance until Buddy will take a treat, open palm, from the person.
The person shouldn't look at the dog. He should pause just long enough to give the dog the treat and then pass.
Management: Aggression toward other dogs
Aggression toward other dogs, especially if the aggressor has had a few successes in his career, isn't so simple to resolve. Prevention here is the best cure: Keep your dog on leash, and don't give him a chance to bite another dog when you're away from home.
To calm dogs with aggressive tendencies, get some essential oil of lavender from a health food store. Put just a couple drops on a small cloth, and wipe it onto your dog's muzzle and around his nose. Lavender has a calming effect where one dog aggresses at another dog. It enables the dog to concentrate on his work. You can also use it in a spray bottle (four drops of oil to eight ounces of water); just spray the room before the dogs come in. It really works wonders with the dogs and even calms the owners. If your dog is in an agility competition and can't concentrate because of the number of dogs and people around them, try this trick: Wipe wiping the dog's muzzle and nose with the oil. You'll likely see a dramatic improvement in his performances.

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BARF diet
A method of feeding dogs as closely as possible what they would eat in the wild: raw flesh and bones, along with vegetable matter from the stomachs of their prey. The acronym stands for either Bones and Raw Food or Biologically Appropriate Raw Food.

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blow out
A twice-yearly shedding of a dog’s undercoat.

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blue slip
An application to register a purebred puppy.

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breeder
A person who raises, sells, and often shows dogs of a specific breed. Reputable breeders screen parent dogs in an effort to produce healthy dogs that conform to breed standards.

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castrate
The removal of a male dog’s testicles to render him infertile.

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check
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clicker
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The advent of a female dog’s term of fertility.

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dropped ears
The term for hanging or drooping dog ears.

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To kill an animal to relieve suffering.

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Hair that extends over a dog’s eyes.

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feathering
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free-feeding
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heat
The period when a female dog is fertile.

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heel
A command and position in which a dog walks at your left side staying with you as you change direction or pace.

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hip dysplasia
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live ring
The floating ring of a training collar. Attach a leash to this ring for training purposes.

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neuter
A general term to describe either spaying or castrating a dog to render it infertile. Neutering and castrating are often used interchangeably.

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pantaloons
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pedigree
A diagram of a dog’s ancestors for three or more generations that lists the registered names of the dogs and the titles they earned.

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pinch collar
A training collar with interlocking prongs that pinch a dog’s neck when tugged on. Some veterinarians recommend them above all other collars for training purposes.

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praise
A verbal reward for a dog , such as an enthusiastic good dog!

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prong collar
A training collar with interlocking prongs that pinch a dog’s neck when tugged on. Some veterinarians recommend them above all other collars for training purposes.

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pulse
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registration certificate
The paper certifying a dog’s registration with an accredited organization.

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registration slip
An application to register a purebred puppy.

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A network of animal lovers who rescue and find new homes for their favorite breeds or animals.

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reward
To give a dog a treat for a correct response while he’s still in the desired position.

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shed
A twice-yearly process of casting off the undercoat in a double-coated dog.

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single coat
A single layer of hairs that comprises a dog’s fur.

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spay
To remove of both the uterus and the ovaries of a dog to render her infertile.

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stripping
Plucking the dead hairs from a dog’s coat.

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titer tests
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top coat
The top layer of a double-coated dog composed of stiff guard hairs that tend to be naturally water-repellant. The top coat protects the dog’s skin and undercoat.

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training collar
A collar that enables you to guide your dog and to check her as necessary — a brief, sharp tug tightens the collar around the dog’s neck.

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treat cup
A plastic container filled with small treats or dog food. Shake it and give treats from it as a reward as you train a dog.

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undercoat
Fleecy or downy fur shorter than the top layer of a double-coated dog. The undercoat serves as insulation.
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