Mic Hargrove

Cheat Sheet / Updated 02-24-2022

To start and keep a freshwater aquarium, you need not only a tank, but the other equipment necessary to keep the water habitable for the fishy inhabitants. When you purchase those fish, make sure that you go to a good dealer and that you buy healthy fish. And when those healthy fish get sick, as some may, tap into the simple remedies in this Cheat Sheet to help restore them to health.

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

No matter what you do to keep your aquarium clean, you'll always have some type of algae in your aquarium system. You can keep it under control with live plants, algae-eating fish, scrapers, and other methods. Algae is often introduced into your aquarium by fish and live food, and it comes in several colors: Blue-green algae (caused by poor water conditions) can form a layer on all of your decorations and substrate, and if your fish stop swimming for a few minutes, they start to resemble a moldy cupcake. Red algae, which is caused by a lack of carbon dioxide in the water, is really nasty and hangs in threads all over your aquarium. Extra oxygen can be added to battle the red algae, but often a tank must be cleaned and restarted if it gets out of control. Brown algae (caused by inadequate light) forms huge brown layers in your aquarium. Green algae (caused by too much light and dissolved waste) makes your aquarium water look like pea soup. This algae can be beneficial as a natural food source, so you can allow a small amount to remain on rocks and decorations. Too much, however, is unsightly. A good way to battle algae in your aquarium is to Do 10 percent water changes daily until the algae clears up. Add algae-eating fish, such as the Siamese algae eater (Crossocheilus siamensis) or the bushy-nosed pleco (Ancistrus sp.). These fish help keep algae populations under control naturally. Don't depend on algae-eating fish to solve your problem alone, though. They couldn't eat that many algae in a million years. Use algae-control products. These products reduce and prevent algae blooms by coloring the aquarium water blue. This coloring process absorbs/blocks sunlight, which the green algae need for survival. Use an algae scraper. You can choose from several types, including a long stick with attached scrub pad/sponge that you simply slide up and down the interior glass; a two-way magnet system; and a "glove" type that fits over your entire hand. A real good version of this is the Kent Marine Proscraper 12-inch scraper. Add live plants, which inhibit algae growth by providing resource competition. Plants use the excess nutrients in the water to thrive. These are the same nutrients that algae need to survive. Plants help "starve" algae production by keeping them from having enough nutrients to flourish.

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

Acrylic aquariums (or tanks) are lightweight and come in an amazing number of shapes and sizes to suit whatever style needs you have. If you're looking at acrylic aquariums for your saltwater or freshwater fish, consider these advantages and disadvantages. Acrylic tanks have some advantages: Lightweight: When compared with glass, acrylic tanks are easier to move and produce fewer hernias. If your aquarium is upstairs, acrylic may give you the option of having a larger tank. Style: Many acrylic tanks come with colored backgrounds, which can be quite stunning with the proper tank decoration. The modern look of acrylic tanks you just can't find in a standard glass aquarium. You also get more choices in colors and styles to match the interior of your home or office. An acrylic tank gives any room an upscale appearance and generally looks more expensive than glass tanks. Strength: It takes an exceptional blow with a blunt instrument to shatter an acrylic aquarium. Cool shapes: Acrylic can be shaped into cool bubbles, tubes, half spheres, convex, and other unusual but fantastic-looking aquariums. Acrylic does have a few drawbacks: Distortion: Unfortunately, acrylic tanks have small amounts of visual distortion because of the way the material is bent during construction. They are generally made out of one large piece of acrylic that is heated and bent to shape; this method produces a seamless look that is outstanding. These transparent corners allow you to view your fish from almost any angle with ease. Expense: Acrylic aquariums are a lot more expensive, if you get into custom styles, than their glass counterparts. These babies can cost some serious bucks, but they are well worth the investment. (Good ones run $500 to several thousand dollars.) These tanks are top of the line as far as quality and workmanship and beauty are concerned. If you have the budget to afford one, you won't be disappointed. Scratches: Acrylic aquariums are quite easily scratched. Be careful when cleaning with rough algae pads, for example, to avoid leaving scratches or smears. Moving gravel around can also damage the surface, and pay close attention when you are moving or adding decorations to the aquarium. There are good scratch remover kits available through your local pet shop or the Internet that can handle most simple blemishes caused by carelessness.

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

Hobbyists new to aquarium keeping get such constant reminders not to overfeed their fish that they sometimes end up underfeeding them. Too much food in an aquarium tank can also build up and foul the water or increase the risk of disease. You want to make sure that your aquarium fish receive all the nutrition they need. Overfeeding can lead to obesity and other health problems. If your fish resemble overinflated tires, cut back on the grub. Remember that your fish's stomach is no larger than its eye. Excess food around the edge of the substrate is one sign of overfeeding. This wasted food accumulates on the bottom of the tank, turns muddy brown, and begins to spoil. Spoiled food can cause health problems for your fish if they happen to eat it. If excess food piles up, decrease the amount you feed and try putting the food in a different area of the aquarium. Excess food breaking down on the substrate surface also can cause an overabundance of harmful ammonia. If you do happen to overfeed, remove the excess with a standard aquarium vacuum. The general rule is to feed only what your fish can eat in a period of three to five minutes per feeding. Now, this doesn't mean that you have to stand around with a starter's whistle and stopwatch at every meal. Just check to make sure that your fish polish off all the food within five minutes. Another option is to purchase a plastic feeding ring that keeps most dry foods confined to a small area on top of the water. A feeding ring can keep most of the food from quickly falling to the bottom of the tank. If possible, feed adult fish three small meals per day instead of just dumping a bunch of food in at one time. Juvenile fish and fry need be fed more often to insure that they grow properly, so give them a couple of extra light feedings each day.

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

Buying fish for your freshwater aquarium is opportunity for a fun trip to the pet store. As you choose fish to take home, look at the physical characteristics in the following list to determine whether a fish is in good health: Body color is rich, not faded or dull. The color should be complete and not missing in any areas. There are no open sores, visible ulcers, boils, or obvious skin problems such as peeling scales or blemishes. Fins are long and flowing or short and erect. The fish should not have any ragged, torn, or missing fins. Scales are flat and smooth, not protruding away from the body. The stomach is well rounded, not sunken or concave. Girth of the entire body is of normal size, not bloated or emaciated. Visible excreta (fish waste) should be dark in color, not pale. All the fins on the fish’s body should not be collapsed or completely clamped shut. The eyes are clear, not cloudy, and they are not popping out of their sockets. There are no visible parasites, such as ich or velvet.

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

When you decide to set up a freshwater aquarium, you commit to getting a number of items aside from the fish. You need equipment and supplies to help keep the aquarium environment healthy for your fish. Use the following list as a shopping list when you head out to get your tank: Tank and stand Air-line tubing Hood Plants Lighting Decorations Gravel Food Heater and thermometer Net Filter systems Water test kit Air pump Declorinator

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

As you shop for the tenants of your freshwater — or saltwater — aquarium, look for a fish dealer who sells healthy fish and can offer information and assistance when you need it. A good fish dealer has the characteristics in the following list: Clean tanks and shop. Friendly, helpful, knowledgeable staff who answer your questions, go out of their way to help, and are familiar with equipment, putting together systems, and needs of each fish. Large selection of aquarium equipment, food, medicine, and fish in stock. Free services, such as water testing. A guarantee on the fish and equipment they sell. Willingness to inform you where you can get something they don’t sell. Autopsies of dead fish to help determine cause of death, and medication adivce to prevent the need for autopsies. Genuine interest in you and your aquarium(s).

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

You’re starting a freshwater aquarium and need to know what kind of fish to stock it with. The fish in the following list are good species of freshwater fish for beginners: Goldfish White clouds Guppy Dwarf gourami Zebra danio Convict cichlid Cherry barb Molly Swordtail Cory Male betta Chinese algae eater Platy *

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

Sometimes, your freshwater fish get sick. If you notice signs of illness, try the following remedies — most of them applications you use in the whole tank — to treat your sick fish: Salt: Common table salt is generally used to treat ich and other parasitic diseases. Methylene blue: Used to treat diseases such as ich, fungus, and velvet. Malachite green: Use this wonderful medicine to treat velvet, fungus, and ich. Formalin: A bath-type treatment only, it should not be used in the main tank. A great remedy for parasites, it doesn’t work well on internal infections and can be very toxic. Penicillin: Treats bacterial infections and is non-toxic. Tetracycline: This antibiotic is great for bacterial infections and is non-toxic. Acriflavine: Treats ich and fungus, but may turn water green.