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If the old paint is failing down to bare wood, you have to remove it all. You can hire professionals to remove the paint by using chemical removers or by sandblasting Amateurs are encouraged not to undertake either of these removal methods: The chemical removers that pros use are too dangerous for the novice to handle, and if the air pressure is set too high on sandblasting equipment, an inexperienced worker may blow the siding right off the house. If you decide to have the paint removed by sandblasting, choose an experienced pro who can offer referrals to satisfied customers, and call or visit those customers to check the references. We emphasize experienced pro, because not all professional painters have had much practice sandblasting wood.
If only a small area of paint is peeling, say the patch under a window, then you can undertake the job yourself. For removing small areas of peeled paint, the do-it-yourselfer can choose from the following methods (illustrated in Figure 1):
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Figure 1: To remove small areas of chipping paint, try a 1/4-sheet palm sander, a sharp hook-type paint scraper, or an electric heat gun. |
- A belt sander or orbital sander: You can remove minor areas of peeled paint with a belt sander or orbital sander. These power sanders create enough dust to choke Lawrence of Arabia, but they're fast, easy to use, and sometimes even fun. Use 80-grit open-coat sandpaper to minimize clogging and gomming up the paper. Don't use a rotating sanding disc, because it tends to leave deep swirl marks in the wood.
- A paint scraper: Paint scrapers are also available in a choice of sizes. Scrapers are a lot less fun than power sanders, but they're effective tools, especially for small areas. For the best scraper efficiency, sharpen the scraper blade when you bring it home from the hardware store — before you use it. Because scraping old paint quickly dulls the blade, resharpen the scraper often with a small file or a grinding wheel to maintain a good cutting edge.
- An electric heat gun: As an alternative to scraping, or in addition to scraping, use a heat gun to remove the really stubborn paint. Heat guns are very effective for removing multiple coats of oil-based paint.
If you choose to use a heat gun for paint removal, remember that air hot enough to melt paint is hot enough to kindle a fire in dry wood or paper products. Use the heat gun with care, keep a garden hose handy for wetting down any burned areas, and keep an eye on the burned area for several hours after you quit working. You want to quickly spot any fire that develops from a smoldering or scorched area, and put the fire out or call for help.
The following procedures are not Dummies Approved. Leave these to the professionals:
- Chemical paint remover: Messing around with these toxic chemicals in quantities large enough to remove paint from a house is just plain nuts. Rely on a sharp scraper and a lot of elbow grease to get the job done, instead.
- Rotating sanding disc: This tool may get the job done, but if you don't have a lot of experience operating the blasted things, you'll gouge the siding. Renting this macho tool may seem like a good idea, but for your house's sake, don't do it.
- Propane torch: This is just another type heat gun, but one that can quickly burn you and your house to the ground. When applied over older, dry siding, the heat and open flame from a propane torch can easily start a fire. Be wise; stick with the electric version.
 | Before you begin to remove paint by any method, be aware that paint dust is a health hazard. Always wear a dust mask and eye goggles when removing paint, and wear protective clothing to cover up bare skin. Exterior lead-based paints were commonly used before 1978. If you suspect that the old paint contains lead, have paint chips tested by a laboratory. |
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