Thinking Ahead as a Dessert Cook

Before tackling a recipe, read it slowly and thoroughly. Do you have all the ingredients necessary? If so, set them out on the counter. If you're missing an ingredient, consider a substitute. Also, if the recipe calls for a piece of kitchen equipment that you don't have, stop before you go too far down the line. Consider whether you can do the job with another tool. In addition:

• Review all the techniques called for in the recipe, such as folding, whisking, crimping, and so on. Are you comfortable with them?

• How long will a recipe take to make, including cooking time? Do you have that much time? Always give yourself more time than the recipe calls for, especially if it's your first time through.

• Look at the recipe a second time and ask yourself: "Does this dessert sound appealing?" If a recipe captures your interest and gets you salivating just by reading it, chances are you'll do a better job making it.

• Think about whether the dessert is appropriate to follow the main course. In general (and there are many exceptions), contrasting textures and flavors is the rule; for example, you want light and refreshing desserts after a heavy meal, and vice versa.

• Think seasonally. Are fresh berries in season? If so, use them. Is it apple season? The fresher the produce, the better.

• Always count how many people you need to feed before taking on a recipe. You may need to try a different recipe or increase your proportions. There is nothing worse — or more embarrassing — than coming up short.

• You can double most dessert recipes simply by multiplying each ingredient by two and following the instructions. If necessary, do your mixing in batches.

• Always check cakes and tarts a few minutes before they're supposed to be done. You can always put them back in, but ovens don't have a reverse gear.

• Clean up as you go along, both for safety reasons (to minimize spreading bacteria) and for organizational reasons (clutter is confusing). Wash your hands before cooking.

• Measure out all ingredients before you start mixing.

• Have all your most-used tools — whisks, measuring cups, wooden spoons, and so on — within easy reach.