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With a wink and a wave to the past, San Francisco continues to reinvent herself with all the insouciance of a pretty girl in a Mustang convertible. In her brief role as the heartbeat of the Internet economy, the city sashayed toward the 21st century with an energy and style that caused even the old-timers to gasp in admiration. Then, before there was time to dump all the stock options, the bubble burst, the old-timers scrambled to diversify their portfolios, and young commercial real-estate brokers and Web designers gave serious consideration to dental school. Fortunately, some things never change: The beautiful scenery continues to dazzle, the top-flight dining continues to garner raves, and the entertainment possibilities continue to grow in sophistication and imagination.
No matter how the economy fares, San Francisco consistently rates as one of the top tourist destinations in the world, and it's no secret why. The city's treasured cable cars provide both thrills and great views as they whiz down and around hills; a majestically golden bridge suspends travelers over the deep blue of the bay; hidden staircases lead to lovely gardens and eye-catching homes. And where else can you savor freshly made miniature chocolate truffles, meander down the most crooked street in the world, and escape from Alcatraz — all in one action-packed day?
Summarizing San Francisco is not easy. When it comes to culture, it delivers everything from grand opera to leather-clad, fire-dancing performance artists. As for dining, you can down a burrito for lunch and polish off a multicourse designer meal for dinner — but critique both with equal passion. What is consistent about the city, from the top of Telegraph Hill to the newly paved sidewalks of China Basin, is constant surprise. As you round a bend in the road, a lovely vista unexpectedly pops into your line of sight. As you savor a glass of chardonnay, a Chinese funeral cortege may suddenly glide past your cafe table, the band playing a pop classic. Or the smell of roasting coffee beans may waft down the street and completely erase any thought but where to find an espresso. Give your senses free rein to guide you through your days here, and you'll have a vacation like no other.
Below are a few of the experiences you just shouldn't leave San Francisco without doing.
- Strolling along the Embarcadero to Aquatic Park: This is a quintessential San Francisco activity, ideally experienced on a sunny day. Think about staring near the baseball park, even though exiting Muni at the Embarcadero and starting there is more convenient. With the water on one side and city landmarks on the other, a leisurely walk past the piers, through Fisherman's Wharf, leads to Aquatic Park and the Municipal Pier. Be sure to hike all the way to the end of the pier, stopping to see what, if anything, the anglers have caught. You'll be rewarded with million-dollar bay vistas.
- Shopping at the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market: Tuesday and Saturday mornings find home cooks and food lovers of all ages crowding the stalls in front and around back of the Ferry Building . You can sample stellar organic fruits, homemade conserves, and goat cheeses, or you can chow down on the freshest of morning pastries, bread, and heartier dishes from some of the city's well-known restaurants. This is a ritual for lots of local chefs who chat up their favorite vendors and bag the choicest morsels.
- Rooting for the Giants at AT&T Park: You don't have to be a baseball fan to enjoy an afternoon or evening at this diamond of a ballpark (despite its ever-changing corporate name). Bleacher seats go on sale game days, but if you prefer something with more cachet, you can usually buy seats online from season-ticket holders. You'll find the best hot dogs around in the concession stands — load up on the sauerkraut and mustard and maybe scramble for a fly ball.
- Biking in Golden Gate Park: Bike rentals are easily available along Stanyon Street and around Stow Lake. John F. Kennedy Drive, which is closed to automobile traffic on Sundays, will take you on a meandering route through this lovely slice of green. At the end of the road, head north toward Fulton Street to see the Dutch Windmills. In spring, the tulips here are in full, glorious bloom.
- Sipping a cappuccino in North Beach: There's never a time when this isn't a great idea, but on a weekday when everyone else is at work, sitting with a newspaper and an Illy espresso defines contentment. You'll have your pick of cafes in North Beach, but a favorite is Caffè Greco, 423 Columbus Ave., between Vallejo and Green, which is bright and roomy and has a big selection of high-carb goodies.
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