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Alaskans have good self-esteem. They love it here. Living in Alaska is a conscious decision for most Alaskans, and they want to spread the word. Many Alaskans treat visitors as potential converts. As for you, well maybe, deep underneath, you're an Alaskan, too. You won't know for sure until it's time to get on the plane for home, but some good conversations on the way can give you an inkling. The questions below can help you get some of those good conversations started.
Where are you from originally?
In Alaska, the word Native means a member of an indigenous tribe and is always capitalized. Real Alaska Natives comprise about 16 percent of the population. Of the rest of the population, not many qualify to be called "Native," even by the ordinary meaning of the word (someone born in Alaska), because the great majority came from somewhere else. Alaska is a young and growing state. It's still a place people move to for a little adventure, knowing that they'll return to their previous homes after a few years. Or at least that's what they think they'll do.
How long have you lived here?
When people get up to speak in public meetings in Alaska, they invariably start out by saying how many years they've lived here. Since gold-rush days, it's been a rule that you can judge a resident's wisdom about the North by how many winters he's seen. Although people who don't enjoy winter sports can go stir-crazy, these days it isn't really that tough to get through the winter. Instead, knowing how long a person has been here tells you how much he remembers about the good old days. Alaska changes fast, and no matter how long you've been here, you think the real Alaska is what it was like when you arrived, not the pale copy that's here now.
Would you tell me about your gun/boat/snow machine?
Save this question for when you have plenty of time to kill. Guns, boats, and snow machines are essential tools for many people who spend time outdoors in Alaska. They're also subjects of intense interest, discussion, and even obsession. People — mostly guys, to be honest — can talk for hours about caliber, horsepower, and track length, discussing what they own, how well it works, and what they dream of owning. Paying attention to the tools upon which your life depends makes sense when you're out in the wilderness.
What do you think of this new land-management plan?
Politics in Alaska is all about land, water, wildlife, and how they should be used or protected. The two camps — those who would save more, and those who would use more — are both well supplied with organizations, politicians, and lawyers. Because about 85 percent of the land is government-owned (15 percent belongs to Alaska Natives and less than 1 percent is privately owned), almost anything anyone wants to do requires a public debate. These are the kinds of issues that make people angry.
Why is the capital in a city you can't drive to?
Many people in Anchorage think the state capital should be in Anchorage, the largest city and the one with the best transportation network. Many people in Fairbanks think the capital shouldn't be in Juneau, but they'd like it even less if it were in Anchorage, a city they view kind of the way Canadians view the United States — big, arrogant, and unaware. In Juneau, everyone knows keeping the capital means economic survival, and the town fights off the votes that come up every few years to move the capital. And that's why the capital is still in Juneau.
Where do you like to go in summer?
Never ask, "Where's your favorite place to fish?" That's the best way to stop a conversation, not start one. Alaskans like to think they guard their favorite fishing spots better than the U.S. government guards the gold at Fort Knox. But you'll get the same information whenever you ask for favorite places to camp or to go to a cabin. Cities empty out on summer weekends. Everyone goes somewhere. And the places they go — on the ocean, on a river somewhere, or up in the mountains — are the places where they remember why they enjoy being alive. Most people love the sheer joy of talking about their special places.
Have you ever encountered a bear?
Two problems with the topic:
- Everyone wants to talk, because each thinks he has the best bear story.
- After the conversation, you'll be afraid to leave your room for the rest of your trip.
Just remember that the information you receive has roughly the same accuracy you'd expect by asking, "Have you ever lost a really big fish?"
Here's my itinerary — do you have any suggestions?
No matter how much time you spend planning, as a visitor, you'll never be able to know as much as the people who already live here. They'll probably have their own little-known trails, restaurants, and shortcuts to suggest. Besides, many Alaskans are travel experts, whether they want to be or not. When you live here, you get a lot of visitors.
Why do you live in Alaska?
In many other places, the answer may be "This is where I was born" or "This is where my job is." But most people who live in Alaska moved here from somewhere else, even though living wherever they came from would have been easier. But they're here, and they know why, and they're likely willing to tell you. They can come out with something as prosaic as "I enjoy hunting" or "I love the snow," or something as eloquent as a gesture toward a grand view of a mountain range.
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